Ruger SFAR small frame 308, 6.8 pounds

[doubloon]

An odd thing is I felt the new tube was a tad longer

Did you just use a regular mid length tube?

EDITED TO CORRECT: no tube came *with* my block, I ordered it separately, apologies to anyone who was misled by the original post

I replaced the factory block with a SA block and thought about using the factory tube but it looked complicated to detach so I bought an AERO rifle length tube from PA.

Aero Precision Melonite Gas Tube - Rifle Length

DetailsThis Aero Precision Rifle Length Gas Tube is made from stainless steel and finish with a durable Melonite coating. Designed for AR-15 or AR-10’s with a rifle length gas system and includes a roll pin for installation.Features:Rifle Length – 15.125”Stainless Steel with Melonite...

www.primaryarms.com

But the SA block hole is supposedly not MIL Spec height ... it looked a little "off" ... "crooked" ... "long" to me but after I twisted on it a couple times to get it centered in the key I couldn't tell anymore so I left it ... we'll see how it works

 

[Bendigo78]

Did you just use a regular mid length tube? I have an Aero agb to try after deer season, if possible I'd like to mount a mid length tube instead of swapping the Ruger one over, in case I decide I like it better with the Ruger block. I thought the SFAR took a regular mid tube, but when I pinged BRT about a replacement tube, they seemed to think Ruger used a length that wasn't exactly standard.

Must of been a regular mid from the parts box, cant find where I ordered it.

 

[doubloon]

Must of been a regular mid from the parts box, cant find where I ordered it.

Ah ... I forget, you have the 16" don't you? My mental bias is toward the 20" which is what I bought.

 

[Bendigo78]

Here's where I'm running my gas block. Don't know if it does anything but at this point I'm not messing with it.

 

[doubloon]

Here's where I'm running my gas block. Don't know if it does anything but at this point I'm not messing with it.

Wow, I may break mine down one day and put some calipers on the SA opening and do some math to see if it isn't offset and not fully covering the English tunnel in the SFAR barrel.

That pic makes me wonder if you aren't getting some base restriction from not fully overlapping the barrel port.

But I may copy your install if I don't get good results.

 

[msgriff]

Here's where I'm running my gas block. Don't know if it does anything but at this point I'm not messing with it.

In the future, one way to tell if the gas tube will be too long and bottom out in the gas key is to mock it up with a brad or wire instead of installing the gas tube roll pin. Install the gas block normally, put the BCG in battery, remove the brad or wire, slide the gas tube to the rear until it bottoms out in the gas key to determine how much play you have.

 

[msgriff]

Wow, I may break mine down one day and put some calipers on the SA opening and do some math to see if it isn't offset and not fully covering the English tunnel in the SFAR barrel.

That pic makes me wonder if you aren't getting some base restriction from not fully overlapping the barrel port.

But I may copy your install if I don't get good results.

The gas passage in a SA set-screw AGB is 0.159".

 

[doubloon]

The gas passage in a SA set-screw AGB is 0.159".

Thanks!

That's huge but probably normal for gas blocks to account for manufacturing and installation slop.

My SFAR port measured right at 0.125"-0.126" IIRC. I have no reason to believe any SFAR out there has a smaller port in the barrel.

The interweb oracle says a quarter is 0.069" thick, the one in my hand is ~0.067" at the rim and somewhere around 0.062" on the bumpy parts in the middle.

ASSuming, (because I have no empirical numbers at the moment, the AGB port was EXACTLY centered on the SFAR port, if fully seated, it would be offset by 0.067"-0.069" (quarter dollar thickness say 0.068") now and since the AGB inlet is 0.0034" larger in diameter than the SFAR port it would have to move at least that far before encroaching on the SFAR port so 0.068" - 0.034" = (conveniently) 0.034" of overlap ... if exactly centered ... if exactly measured ... if if if

This would leave an imperfectly oblong intersection (oval for simplicity's sake) between the barrel port and the AGB inlet with a minor axis of ~0.091" and a major axis of ~0.125" providing a total intersection area of ~0.008934 square inches.

A "normal" 308AR barrel port (16" rifle, mid length) is ~0.080" in diameter which provides a gas port area of ~0.005026 square inches.

So ... even if offset perfectly and my math is anywhere near right it's still overgassed at the AGB inlet by nearly 80% but not as bad as a wide open 0.125" intersection which provides a gas port area of ~0.012272 square inches.

A "normal" 308AR barrel port (20" rifle, rifle lengh) is ~0.095" in diamter which provides a gas port are of ~0.007088 square inches ... waaaay smaller than the SFAR 0.125" diameter port obviously but still less than the imperfectly oblong port intersection of the offset block ... still overgassed without adjustment.

So, based on completely guesstimate math it's possible the port on the offset install on the 16" SFAR is restricted by somewhere between 20%-30% at the AGB inlet before adjustment but still overgassed without adjustment.

Maybe. I know there's somebody out there who's better at this shit than me so corrections freely accepted.

 

[Bendigo78]

I typically disassemble the bolt carrier and test it in the receiver with the goal of not feeling any interface between the key and tube. Adjusting the tube as needed. I set this one further forward than typical because I was running the sa block at maximum vent and still over gassed. I dont think its restricting much because I'm only 3-4 clicks open in restriction mode.

The gas tube also a place where any pressure from the carrier can transfer to the barrel affecting harmonics.

Back in the olden days, you would sometimes have issues with gb alignment if you seated it against the shoulder because barrels were cut to allow for the cap that captured the handgaurds.

 

[Scott037]

I noticed that the used brass won’t fit in my other 308 but it’s brass fits in the sfar

 

[doubloon]

I noticed that the used brass won’t fit in my other 308 but it’s brass fits in the sfar

Trying to make sure I understand.

Fire formed brass from the SFAR will not fit in your other 308 but fire formed brass from the other 308 will fit in the SFAR ?

It wouldn't surprise me that fire formed brass from one gun might not fit the chamber of another gun, even from one SFAR to another SFAR.

I only own three 308s and it wouldn't surprise me if fire formed brass from one wouldn't fit in the other two and vice versa.

I don't reload fire formed brass but if I did it would be one of the few times I'd religiously follow the wisdom of Offspring.

 

[Bendigo78]

I noticed that the used brass won’t fit in my other 308 but it’s brass fits in the sfar

I think the sfar chamber is a bit more forgiving depending on the wear of the rusty pinecone it was chambered with. I got over 600 rounds of reloads through it without issue. Then again my brass prep is on a new level with the annealing, sizing twice, and sorting.

The dpms ap4 I moved down the road was notorious for its tight chamber. If it was new ammo or new brass it wouldn't have a problem. I never was able to pinpoint a particular brand that was the issue but even sizing with a small base die I'd get an occasional unfired round that stuck horribly.

 

[Nelson11b]

My SFAR
Pretty much factory. I put in a larue 2 stage trigger and 4.5 buffer and it runs great suppressed or unsuppressed. I also had the gas setting on 3 til about 600 rounds then had to move it to 2. Suppressed I run the gas on 1 setting and it runs great. I got about 1500 rounds through it and no signs of slowing down. The only problem I had was my gas key came loose and I reset it and have a few hundred rounds through it with no issue.

 

[celltech]

My SFAR was under gassed from the factory. It would cycle Magtech 168gr no problem, but kept choaking on any M118ish, 175gr ammo. Looking with my borescope the larger gas block ports were all way smaller than the barrel port. Threw on an inexpensive Aero GB I had lying around and can now cycle the 175s without issue.

 

[Nelson11b]

My SFAR was under gassed from the factory. It would cycle Magtech 168gr no problem, but kept choaking on any M118ish, 175gr ammo. Looking with my borescope the larger gas block ports were all way smaller than the barrel port. Threw on an inexpensive Aero GB I had lying around and can now cycle the 175s without issue.

View attachment 8288993View attachment 8288994View attachment 8288995View attachment 8288996

I shoot 180 sst and it’s sub moa also factory 175 smk’s run fine

 

[doubloon]

My SFAR was under gassed from the factory

That's a first, at least it's the first claim of undergassed for an SFAR I've heard of with a properly installed block.

the larger gas block ports were all way smaller than the barrel port.

By design. The factory SFAR barrel port is 0.125" ... waaaay larger than any "normal" 308 barrel port at any length. Refer to the 308 section at this link https://tacticalmachining.com/learn/ar-style-rifles/ar-15-gas-port-sizes.html

The largest factory SFAR gas block port is as big or bigger than the largest port size in the table at the link. Suppressed is usually best run with more restriction provided by a smaller port diameter.

I assume your AERO GB is not adjustable and while it's probably cycling suppressed most people find that much gas in a suppressed configuration puts unnecessary wear on components.

The inside diameter of a gas tube is somewhere around 0.120", maybe 0.125" max, so a block with a port anywhere near this size is likely running completely unrestricted.

 

[celltech]

I assume your AERO GB is not adjustable and while it's probably cycling suppressed most people find that much gas in a suppressed configuration puts unnecessary wear on components.

Nope...it's the adjustable one. Plenty of clicks left to dial it down...

 

[doubloon]

Nope...it's the adjustable one. Plenty of clicks left to dial it down...

Ah, then it's probably dialed down smaller than 0.120" internally.

 

[doubloon]

So I finally made it back to the range.

Besides brushing a bunch of black shit from the chamber area that I believe correlates to the neck (adjacent to the small shoulder just before the freebore). There's an "after" pic below, I don't have a before pic but the area indicated by the blue line was completely black all the way up to the beginning of the freebore.

The only other changes I ended up making to the rifle were swapping out the gas block for a Superlative adjustable and the gas tube for a rifle length Aero tube. My SFAR is the 20". I installed the block flush. Although tempted, I did not use the Bendigo mount.

I have some old boxes of PPU 145gr so I pushed most of a couple boxes of that through the rifle with the SA block mostly wide open around 18 or so clicks.

The difference is almost night and day. The first 20 or so rounds with the block wide open show a minor amount of brass shaving with maybe a couple three cases that were rough enough to catch on a nitrile glove. Maybe one or two with a slightly bent rim.

I adjusted the block to full bleed and verified it wouldn't cycle then adjusted it to cycle the 145gr fodder and after finishing the rest of two boxes of the 145gr stuff I found the brass to be relatively unmarred.

I shot a couple boxes of 165gr PPU through it on the same settings and all that brass emerged unmarred as well. But precision/accuracy seemed unpredictable so I dialed the block into restrictive mode and shot a couple more boxes with similar results ... 3-4 MOA type results.

I can't say that I know with absolutely certainty whether it was the AGB or the cleaning that did the most good but I don't have any faith in the factory SFAR AGB so I won't be putting it back.

As it sits, it doesn't mangle brass anymore so I'm not going to dump it immediately. I just need to try to find some ammo it likes.

 

[Southernspeed]

So I finally made it back to the range.

Besides brushing a bunch of black shit from the chamber area that I believe correlates to the neck (adjacent to the small shoulder just before the freebore). There's an "after" pic below, I don't have a before pic but the area indicated by the blue line was completely black all the way up to the beginning of the freebore.

The only other changes I ended up making to the rifle were swapping out the gas block for a Superlative adjustable and the gas tube for a rifle length Aero tube. My SFAR is the 20". I installed the block flush. Although tempted, I did not use the Bendigo mount.

I have some old boxes of PPU 145gr so I pushed most of a couple boxes of that through the rifle with the SA block mostly wide open around 18 or so clicks.

The difference is almost night and day. The first 20 or so rounds with the block wide open show a minor amount of brass shaving with maybe a couple three cases that were rough enough to catch on a nitrile glove. Maybe one or two with a slightly bent rim.

I adjusted the block to full bleed and verified it wouldn't cycle then adjusted it to cycle the 145gr fodder and after finishing the rest of two boxes of the 145gr stuff I found the brass to be relatively unmarred.

I shot a couple boxes of 165gr PPU through it on the same settings and all that brass emerged unmarred as well. But precision/accuracy seemed unpredictable so I dialed the block into restrictive mode and shot a couple more boxes with similar results ... 3-4 MOA type results.

I can't say that I know with absolutely certainty whether it was the AGB or the cleaning that did the most good but I don't have any faith in the factory SFAR AGB so I won't be putting it back.

As it sits, it doesn't mangle brass anymore so I'm not going to dump it immediately. I just need to try to find some ammo it likes.

I’m going to have to try a different AGB to help save my brass but I just don’t see how these rifles can be so picky with ammo. 3/4 moa with my hand loads without even trying too hard yet 2-6” moa with all factory I’ve tried. I know ‘it’s not a precision rifle’, I get that, but never the less!

 

[doubloon]

yet 2-6” moa with all factory I’ve tried.

I'll have to go back and read some earlier posts, I thought some people were getting good groups with some factory ammo.

It's "comforting" (?) to know someone else jas similar issues with factory stuff. My other 308s have heavy, thick barrels so maybe harmonics accounts for some of the differences or maybe I need to shoot some honing/finishing rounds through it like (I think it was) @Bendigo78 ?

 

[Southernspeed]

I'll have to go back and read some earlier posts, I thought some people were getting good groups with some factory ammo.

It's "comforting" (?) to know someone else jas similar issues with factory stuff. My other 308s have heavy, thick barrels so maybe harmonics accounts for some of the differences or maybe I need to shoot some honing/finishing rounds through it like (I think it was) @Bendigo78 ?

Some people say they get good groups with factory, it seems to vary so much which, again, is weird. And no offence to anyone who shoots 3 shot groups or calls anything outside of a tight group ( every time!) but in my mind, that’s not truly representative. I’ll do initial load tests with 5 shots but 20 rounds , to me, shows how it’s shooting.
I just loaded up another 200 yesterday and hope to get out tomorrow, see how that goes. I know they’ll group tight at 100yds, but I’ve not stretched them out to 1000 yet.

 

[doubloon]

initial load tests with 5 shots but 20 rounds

5 shots is my minimum for showing any kind of reliability and my minimum for picking a zero. Don't get me wrong, I've been known to move a reticle after 3 rounds but we're talking at least a 3-4 moa cluster that's 6 moa or more off center. I do like to see a ragged hole of 10-20 rounds out of all my rifles but I don't think the SFAR will produce that either yet or with this ammo.

I plan to take it out and see if it will shoot minute of hog once or twice before I take it back to the range for any attempts at fine tuning.

 

[MadDuner]

Some people say they get good groups with factory, it seems to vary so much which, again, is weird. And no offence to anyone who shoots 3 shot groups or calls anything outside of a tight group ( every time!) but in my mind, that’s not truly representative. I’ll do initial load tests with 5 shots but 20 rounds , to me, shows how it’s shooting.
I just loaded up another 200 yesterday and hope to get out tomorrow, see how that goes. I know they’ll group tight at 100yds, but I’ve not stretched them out to 1000 yet.

I'll take 4 or 5 different type of the same caliber ammo - and test them all from different rifles to attempt to see what likes what. Even if I only spend 5 rounds per rifle - it shows me a starting point, or to know what to expect from which ammo with which rifle. The next time out with each rifle - I only need to take the kind it likes. My 20" SFAR likes Lake City M118 175gr and Hornady SuPeformance 168gr - so far.

 

[Southernspeed]

I'll take 4 or 5 different type of the same caliber ammo - and test them all from different rifles to attempt to see what like what. Even if I only spend 5 rounds per rifle - it shows me a starting point, or to know what to expect from which ammo with which rifle. The next time out with each rifle - I only need to take the kind it likes. My 20" SFAR likes Lake City M118 175gr and Hornady SuPeformance 168gr - so far.

What sort of group size do you get with those two?

 

[MadDuner]

Odd double post deleted.

Best group so far has been .7 MOA with the M118. I haven’t tried any of the factory hunting rounds yet.

 

[Bendigo78]

I'll have to go back and read some earlier posts, I thought some people were getting good groups with some factory ammo.

It's "comforting" (?) to know someone else jas similar issues with factory stuff. My other 308s have heavy, thick barrels so maybe harmonics accounts for some of the differences or maybe I need to shoot some honing/finishing rounds through it like (I think it was) @Bendigo78 ?

I didn't try any serious factory ammo besides old surp and that was just for break in that ended up being useless for the amount of issues and fouling.
First verify that you're not going to have an issue with the gas block not free floating. Then work on understanding the barrel.
With any new barrel that you want a serious understanding of accuracy potential you have to understand how to clean a barrel to bare metal and verify (borescopes really help) and you have shoot consistant groups to document trends (groups growing/shrinking) from a clean barrel. It indicates an issue with fouling. The goal is consistent groups from a clean barrel that stay consistent.

Long story short, if it's not a premium barrel and you're not happy, lap it (new or old). With the issues in the throat and tight spots in mine I have to assume that its common. Remember chambered with a rusty pinecone and blueberry syrup. Cheap 308 is a dollar a round. $40 for lapping bullets loaded with whatever rifle powder gets them out of the barrel and one range session spent cleaning is cheap compared to several range sessions being unsatisfied with a rifle.

The directions say to start with a clean barrel and clean every 10 between grits. I went further and cleaned every 5 for the first 30 and I cleaned the hell out of it. Wet patch, 20 passes with a 33cal brush with bore gel, wet patch, 20 passes with jb bore brite, wet patch, dry patch, bore snake.

I'm very happy with how my sfar turned out and don't know if I've seen another getting the same accuracy.

 

[sparky702]

My sfar is a 20 inch . I did remove some metal on the inside of the hand guard . I run 200 rounds of federal 149 grain white box on setting 3 . switched to setting 2 and it has run everything I have put through it . I run my suppressor on setting one . I have not had any issue's . I did lube the rifle up pretty sloppy when I broke the gun in . other than cleaning it thats it . suppressed or not I get one moa or less with Remington 150 grain . with the can on my rifle I am 3 moa low at 100 yds it's repeatable and pretty easy to deal with . I suppose even a blind hog find's an acorn every now and then . I will include a 5 shot group at 100 yds .

 

[nagantguy]

Ya know I’ve handled the 20” twice at my local shop - really want to buy it . But it still seems a 50/50 at best on getting a shooter or a headache. I’d love a light weight handy 20 to go along with my 16” DPMS pig. But not in the mood for a “fix er upper “ as it were .

 

[doubloon]

in the mood for a “fix er upper “ as it were .

So far "boat" feels like the most accurate description pulling from the experience of my past but I'm going to take another step down the @Bendigo78 path and run some lapping bullets through the barrel ... I've always looked at them out of the corner of my eye like snake oil but Bendigo makes a compelling pitch.

If I can get anywhere near the precision/accuracy of bendigo or sparky I will be very happy

 

[Bendigo78]

So far "boat" feels like the most accurate description pulling from the experience of my past but I'm going to take another step down the @Bendigo78 path and run some lapping bullets through the barrel ... I've always looked at them out of the corner of my eye like snake oil but Bendigo makes a compelling pitch.

If I can get anywhere near the precision/accuracy of bendigo or sparky I will be very happy

I've used them for over 20 years. Usually as a last resort to a finicky gun. It was about 10 years ago I encountered a problematic ba 6.5 ar10 barrel where I developed a bit more understanding of break in and cleaning.

The first group out of that barrel was a 1/4" hole. Next group went 1". Then 2". Then 3". Then it would settle in somewhere above that. I'd get pissed and go home and clean it. Then the next range trip would be the same. I did this for months. Through all that cussing and cleaning I started to be able to feel tight spots in the dirty barrel pushing a patch and could judge how clean the barrel was by feel. Then I ran lapping bullets through it and it settled into a 3/4" gun. To be honest I haven't cleaned it since. If I'm having a bad day and questioning my shooting I'll pull it out and get a 3/4" or smaller group.

I've probably bought 10 kits. Bad guns get a full 50, sometimes I'll split it between a couple guns that just arent quite up to expectations. I've never had a barrel get worse from using them. You can definitely feel the barrel get smoother as you work through the progression.

 

[doubloon]

The first group out of that barrel was a 1/4" hole. Next group went 1". Then 2". Then 3". Then it would settle in somewhere above that. I'd get pissed and go home and clean it.

This is more or less what I'm seeing. I question the optics, the ammo, myself all first and it's an annoying cycle sometimes.

it settled into a 3/4" gun. To be honest I haven't cleaned it since

The way it should be. I'm a firm believer for off the rack guns that they should only be cleaned down to the metal when they stop grouping. It might be different for $5000 hand lapped barrels but I wouldn't know.

Any one kit better than another? I've always written them off as placebos before.

 

[WindstormSCR]

Any one kit better than another? I've always written them off as placebos before.

Tubbs final finish does an excellent job, and you can buy them pre-loaded

 

[doubloon]

Tubbs final finish does an excellent job, and you can buy them pre-loaded

Thanks, off to put another hole in my wallet.

 

[Bendigo78]

Thanks, off to put another hole in my wallet.

I've only used the Tubbs. Also dont get the TMS kit. It's for throat maintenance and only has the fine grit.

 

[hlee]

Thanks gentlemen. You reminded me that I loaded up one of those Tubs Final Finish kits several years ago, for a rifle that turned out to not need it. Now, I'm headed out to the range with a rifle that DOES need the kit. Will it help? Probably can't hurt...

 

[doubloon]

The first time I had two .002" half pieces. This time i could only get one .002 half in there

I had a chance to stretch mine out to 200 and JFC ... let's just say I'm glad berms are as big as they are.

Initially I thought maybe you were a little OCD with the shims but I took the barrel nut off mine and the barrel extension was covered with a thick layer of goop like it just exited a birth canal and there were little flecks that looked like brass mixed in with the goop.

Once I cleaned it off it wiggles around in the upper pretty freely.

I put a caliper on it and minimum readings for OD on the extension come in around 0.997"-0.998". What I get when I measure the ID of the upper is more like 1.003"-1.004".

It's officially the boat of rifles. I feel obligated to shim it now ... FFS

 

[sparky702]

Well I have been wanting an sfar chambered in 6.5 Creedmoor for a long time . I got tired of waiting and run across a crazy deal on a 6.5 creedmoor armalite so I ordered it Tuesday . Look what has popped up on rugers web site .

 

[doubloon]

Well I have been wanting an sfar chambered in 6.5 Creedmoor for a long time . I got tired of waiting and run across a crazy deal on a 6.5 creedmoor armalite so I ordered it Tuesday . Look what has popped up on rugers web site .

Sorry to hear it but why wait for the SFAR?

I don't know a lot about 6.5 Creedmoor so it's genuine curiosity. I thought there were already lightweight options out there that worked.

 

[sparky702]

Sorry to hear it but why wait for the SFAR?

I don't know a lot about 6.5 Creedmoor so it's genuine curiosity. I thought there were already lightweight options out there that worked.

It's possible there are other light weight AR10's in 6.5 creedmoor out there I just haven't seen them . As far as the creedmoor goes it has better ballistics than the 308 when it comes to longer range plus lighter recoil . I really enjoy my sfar 308 it is set up for hunting and it has worked great for me in that role so I intend to leave it be as it set's . I like to play the shooting games and really enjoy the precision matches as well as the gas gun matches . I already shoot a 6.5 creedmoor bolt action and have plenty of powder , brass , primers and bullet's on hand . So , why not grab a 6.5 creedmoor gas gun for those type matches . As far as the waiting goes I was'n't in a hurry I just found it ironic that 2 day's after I ordered the armalite the Item I had been waiting on became available for purchase . That's just my luck though . I could jump in a barrel boobies and come out sucking my thumb .

 

[doubloon]

It's possible there are other light weight AR10's in 6.5 creedmoor out there I just haven't seen them

Ah ... never looked just assumed there were.

Yeah, I understand the basic differences between 6.5 and 308 and [insert 3000 other calibers here] no judgement on anybody for picking any particular caliber ... except maybe people who pick Valkyrie or one of the blackouts.

Of course you could always buy the SFAR, try them both then sell the one you don't want to keep for cheap and consider it a $200 rental.

 

[sparky702]

Ah ... never looked just assumed there were.

Yeah, I understand the basic differences between 6.5 and 308 and [insert 3000 other calibers here] no judgement on anybody for picking any particular caliber ... except maybe people who pick Valkyrie or one of the blackouts.

Of course you could always buy the SFAR, try them both then sell the one you don't want to keep for cheap and consider it a $200 rental.

LOL I have one valkyrie and 3 300 blackout's .

 

[Bendigo78]

My father asked me to bring the sfar out for our sunday range day because he was testing loads for his RPR and wanted a second opinion.

In all honesty, I'm not a fan of the RPR. Great on paper but lacking in execution. Loads that were tested were 175eldx bullets over Varget. It seemed the lower powder charges were more accurate. Varget is probably too fast for the heavy end of the 30cal bullet selection.

The SFar shot every load better that the RPR. Also something interesting was that every load tested (175/168grn) impacted less than an inch from my 125grn 100yrd zero.

 

[Southernspeed]

My father asked me to bring the sfar out for our sunday range day because he was testing loads for his RPR and wanted a second opinion.

In all honesty, I'm not a fan of the RPR. Great on paper but lacking in execution. Loads that were tested were 175eldx bullets over Varget. It seemed the lower powder charges were more accurate. Varget is probably too fast for the heavy end of the 30cal bullet selection.

The SFar shot every load better that the RPR. Also something interesting was that every load tested (175/168grn) impacted less than an inch from my 125grn 100yrd zero.

I have an RPR in 6.5 cm. I have coming up for 2k rounds through it and just as day 1, it is still moa out to a 1000. If the weather isn’t too crazy, even with my very moderate skills, a 10” plate at 1000 yds is no big deal. Wish my SFAR was anywhere close to that accurate or reliable!

 

[Bendigo78]

I have an RPR in 6.5 cm. I have coming up for 2k rounds through it and just as day 1, it is still moa out to a 1000. If the weather isn’t too crazy, even with my very moderate skills, a 10” plate at 1000 yds is no big deal. Wish my SFAR was anywhere close to that accurate or reliable!

I'm glad it works for you and alot of people. I was very excited about them. My biggest hangups are the trigger, the weight, and every interface with it is odd. Dads samples trigger has multiple starts and stops throughout the pull. He does fine with it but I can't shoot it to save my life. For as svelte as they are it feels like it's made of tungsten. The bolt cycle is gritty and weird, like it's very particular on how it wants forces applied to it before it moves. It was a very early model.

Dad doesnt get as OCD with his rifles as i do and is perfectly happy with it. He rarely shoots it but likes having it in the safe. He'd probably be better off trading it and or some of his heavy ar10s off for an sfar (he's 73). Honestly I'm kinda twitching to sell off my "lightweight" 6.5 ar10 to try the 6.5 sfar.

 

[Southernspeed]

I'm glad it works for you and alot of people. I was very excited about them. My biggest hangups are the trigger, the weight, and every interface with it is odd. Dads samples trigger has multiple starts and stops throughout the pull. He does fine with it but I can't shoot it to save my life. For as svelte as they are it feels like it's made of tungsten. The bolt cycle is gritty and weird, like it's very particular on how it wants forces applied to it before it moves. It was a very early model.

Dad doesnt get as OCD with his rifles as i do and is perfectly happy with it. He rarely shoots it but likes having it in the safe. He'd probably be better off trading it and or some of his heavy ar10s off for an sfar (he's 73). Honestly I'm kinda twitching to sell off my "lightweight" 6.5 ar10 to try the 6.5 sfar.

As always, so much inconsistency between rifles! My bolt is butter and the original trigger was pretty good but I did put a 1lb Timney in it which is superb.
Actually when the rifle was new I was booked in for a long range rifle course ( you have to qualify for our 1000yd ranges) and the cocking lug on the bolt broke ( a common problem then) I had 5 days until the course, Ruger wanted the rifle back though. I spoke to Anarchy Outdoors who very kindly over nighted a Ruger American bolt to me on loan. Massive thanks to them. I later bought their updated billet cocking piece and some other gear.
It’s a great rifle but yes, it’s heavy. But hey, owning one makes me a sniper right?!!

 

[doubloon]

But hey, owning one makes me a sniper right?!!

At least until you take it out of the safe.

 

[doubloon]

The first time I had two .002" half pieces. This time i could only get one .002 half in there. I think there was some residual loctite green in there. You cant wrap the entire extension because of the vent ports.

I think I understand but for clarity by "half pieces" do you mean a half a piece of shim stock or halfway around the extension. For the shim stock I have one half piece will wrap almost 360 degrees around the extension.

So I was able to do a 360 degree wrap around the extension with .002" and the barrel still wiggled and would fall out of the receiver.

I tried to get a piece of .003" but it kept hanging up and I was afraid of folding/tearing the shim stock and making a mess of it.

Final fit was .0025" (.001" + .0015") fully around the extension and the fully covered from the flange to the scallops. I was able to press fit it by hand so maybe if I tried hard enough or used some heat I could squeeze a .003" in there. But I feel pretty good about the overall fit since my ham handed caliper measurements yielded an approximate 0.007"-0.005" total difference between the OD of the extension and the ID of the receiver opening.

The vents are, of course, blocked at the moment but I'll cut them out before tightening down the barrel nut.

 

[Bendigo78]

I think I understand but for clarity by "half pieces" do you mean a half a piece of shim stock or halfway around the extension. For the shim stock I have one half piece will wrap almost 360 degrees around the extension.

So I was able to do a 360 degree wrap around the extension with .002" and the barrel still wiggled and would fall out of the receiver.

I tried to get a piece of .003" but it kept hanging up and I was afraid of folding/tearing the shim stock and making a mess of it.

Final fit was .0025" (.001" + .0015") fully around the extension and the fully covered from the flange to the scallops. I was able to press fit it by hand so maybe if I tried hard enough or used some heat I could squeeze a .003" in there. But I feel pretty good about the overall fit since my ham handed caliper measurements yielded an approximate 0.007"-0.005" total difference between the OD of the extension and the ID of the receiver opening.

The vents are, of course, blocked at the moment but I'll cut them out before tightening down the barrel nut.

By half pieces, I meant half way around the barrel extension and I was going around the bottom of the extension (the half without ports).
On normal extensions I do a full wrap with a notch cut to go around the extension pin.
For depth, I try to cover as much of the extension as possible without being able to see it inside the receiver or having to worry about it bunching up between the extension and receiver face.

I also put a few drops of loc tite green on the extension and receiver. Just to hold it all together.

 

[doubloon]

I meant half way around the barrel extension

Ah, so you had ~.004"+/- of play originally. Seems like the machining is at least consistent. This makes me optimistic.