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I would have to source some original factory junky parts to make it fair and less painfull.Do it
Wait, so you don't just fill the case with powder and scape the mouth with a butter knife?
I still have a few sets of lee dies that came with themWhenInwas a teenager just starting out in pistol shooting… IPSC back in early ‘80s before it got big… I shot a .38 Smith revolver.
To feed it, Lee Loader where you hammer the case in and out to load.
Used bullseye because you could get 2000 loads plus per pound. And the “load” was a little yellow scoop that you scraped level with a card.
When I finally got a press, I was styling. But still took me longer to get a powder measure. My $18 Bonanza press, a set of non-carbide dies (carbide was for rich folk) and a scoop loaded thousands of rounds. Tens of thousands, probably.
I still have that little yellow scoop.
Don’t knock scraping off the scoop until you have tried it.
Sirhr
In the early 1970’s, I was damn proud to have a yellow scoop that measured .25-06 loads and another that measured .243 loads. Unlike @sirhrmechanic I purchased the RCBS beam scale first to go along with my two red box Lee Loaders. After getting married, my sweet Brenda made sure we had an RCBS Jr. Press. Really made things easier.WhenInwas a teenager just starting out in pistol shooting… IPSC back in early ‘80s before it got big… I shot a .38 Smith revolver.
To feed it, Lee Loader where you hammer the case in and out to load.
Used bullseye because you could get 2000 loads plus per pound. And the “load” was a little yellow scoop that you scraped level with a card.
When I finally got a press, I was styling. But still took me longer to get a powder measure. My $18 Bonanza press, a set of non-carbide dies (carbide was for rich folk) and a scoop loaded thousands of rounds. Tens of thousands, probably.
I still have that little yellow scoop.
Don’t knock scraping off the scoop until you have tried it.
Sirhr
Knowing more details would be nice and all, but getting the hell outta there makes total sense to me.
If I just almost blew myself up in front of a bunch of people, the last thing I'd want to do would be to stick around and play 20 questions on why/how I was (probably) inept at doing what I was doing when I almost blew up.
Sadly i could only put one crying laughing emoji.Clearly, you just don’t get into the spirit of getting blown up.
Nothing is more fun standing than around with one eyebrow and a smoldering BDU jacket saying… wow, that was WAY better than the last time!
Let me tell you about the time….
Sirhr
I had a friend that blew up two Kelby actions, not sure which model they were. Wrong powder, twice.I never said anything different, fill a rifle case up with fast burning pistol powder and you have a grenade.
Are some actions better made and more durable with higher quality steel and better tested by intentional destruction testing, sure.
I read somewere on this site i think it was kelbly tested one of thier new actions to 130,000 psi.
I will see if i can dig it up.
Yeah i worked with a guy like that for awhile his name was Patrick but we called him Murphy.I had a friend that blew up two Kelby actions, not sure which model they were. Wrong powder, twice.
I one found a directional lens in pieces below my trucks rear bumper where it had clipped me. No damage to my truck but I scooped up the shards and took them home. When I was finished, I had reassembled it and had the make and model of the vehicle that hit me.That is true. I’ve always said and seen that ignorance truly is bliss. Those with inquiring minds find that things are usually not just black and white. The more that I know, the more I realize what I don’t know.
Don’t you threaten us, with a good time…..I can substitute a case full of Bluedot for H4350 and put it in a short action savage i have and use a long string to fire from cover.
Replace Savage for any other action and you get the same results I would think. I've seen more non-Savage actions blown up than I have Savage but it almost always comes down to the powder.
I never said anything different, fill a rifle case up with fast burning pistol powder and you have a grenade.
Are some actions better made and more durable with higher quality steel and better tested by intentional destruction testing, sure.
I read somewere on this site i think it was kelbly tested one of thier new actions to 130,000 psi.
I will see if i can dig it up.
To a certain extent, I agree with you on the Axis. They don`t " feel " as substantial to me as the 110. I have a 110 Storm in .223 that`s been a great rifle for me. I will say, though, that the most prevalent " traditional " hunting rifles at our state range has been the Axis II in various calibers. The ones I`ve seen shoot and appear to function well and the guys who I`ve talked to that own them seem to like them.It’s not that I’m wanna bash savage, I actually love my 112. But the axis is just crude, it doesn’t feed well, the bolt binds. It’s a sloppy mess. I’m not sure why savage wouldn’t refine it to at least the model 10 standards.
140 gr at 3000 fps out of a 24” 6.5 cm. One of those standard pressure snipers hide loads.Ok guys! That is pretty scary. But here’s what I got going right now and I really need your guys input. Please take a look at this picture on the brass and the primer crater. I’m shooting 140 ELDM, R16, CCI BR4 primer, Lapua brass (3rd firing), 6.5 creed, 24” Proof 1:7.5 twist. Starting load was 42 gn with speed at 2840 fps, and max load was 44.8 at 3001 fps. My inspection on the cratering and the brass shows almost identical condition so I don’t know if they were both over pressured. Bolt lift on both loads are identical and normal. And based on what I read online, CCI primers tend to crater more than most primers. But the fact that I’m pushing a 140 grain at 3000 fps on a 24” barrel seems chillingly eerie. Please let me know if I’m still safe or if I’m in the kaboom zone. Shine in and keep it professional. Thank you!![]()
Thank you ! 42 and 44.8 were my starting and max loads, not the published numbers. Both of these loads gave me the best velocity nodes with single digit ES and SD but sounds like I’m in the danger zone so will need to go below 2800 fps to be within the safe pressure zone. Any other powder besides H4350 and R16 that you guys used to get the highest speed and still be under acceptable psi..?140 gr at 3000 fps out of a 24” 6.5 cm. One of those standard pressure snipers hide loads.
Where did you get 42 gr as a starting load? Thats a max load. 3000 fps is a zippy load out of a 6.5-284.
Both your cases show obvious excessive pressure. The BR-4 is a very strong primer.
That’s the funny part, everyone on the hide is a expert reloader140 gr at 3000 fps out of a 24” 6.5 cm. One of those standard pressure snipers hide loads.
Where did you get 42 gr as a starting load? Thats a max load. 3000 fps is a zippy load out of a 6.5-284.
Both your cases show obvious excessive pressure. The BR-4 is a very strong primer.
I’ll only disagree to the extent of saying that those of us who reload a LOT and a lot of calibers cannot use Memory. Which is why we have very good notes and notebooks. And in every “can” of ammo I load, also put a recipe card and date info.
But if I take out a few to go to the range… I may not know what is in a specific load.
Write everything down! Multiple copies. Mine is in pen notes hanging on reloading room wall on a clipboard. On computer. And on printout. And on cards in ammo cans.
Memory is not to be trusted with reloading.
The good news is that everyone is ok.
And new reloader? We can’t assume. Pistol powder? Maybe. Squib followed by hot load? Maybe. I’m not going to bust on the guy based on the OP’s description. Too many questions remain.
The real lesson is check, double check and triple check. Write stuff down. Save it. If you get a load from the Internet… cross check it in a book. I have 4 loading manuals from the 70’s
To 2 years ago. If I am trying something new, I can cross reference what “other” books say.
Some powders have similar numbers… make sure that the initials and the numbers are exact!
And if a load feels “wrong” stop! Aka squib. Or “hot” or pressure signs.
Glad it’s Only a gun!
Sirhr
I reload easy two dozen different calibers. However I know the basics when I go out. Date loaded, powder type, bullet weight. I would know that unless the little bit of paper was "blown away". Back at the barn I have all the other jazz needed when I came back with my shooting notes on how everything did.
For me that a large run is 50 rounds, and it is not uncommon to do several different calibers in one session I use the below procedures. After finishing with cartridge 1 everything goes back into the cans/bottles. I turn off the scales, everything starts a zero again. This goes true if I am even loading the same cartridge with a different loading. I have several rifles of the same caliber, and those are broken out by the last 4 of the SN#. So powder could be the same and the bullet is the same, not a lot of choices for 6.5 Carcano. But everything is base zero.
Knock on wood no issues so far.
The only thing I load "hot" are some 38 and 357 loads for a Marlin lever rifle, those are labeled MARLIN LEVER ONLY DUMB ASS. So they don't go into one of my old 38 revolvers.
Glad everyone is ok.
Looks like the scope is still intact? Wonder if it still works...
Mossberg fan, eh ?Savage and a Nikon...
Fucker did himself a favor
Agreed. I know the basics. But even on SH when someone asks me “what load is that..?” The answer is “I’ll look it up for you and PM.” I have a thing about being careful posting loads… one typo away from making a bad day for someone.
Don’t get me wrong, the Interwebz are a great place to search for loads. But after getting one, even from you trusted crazoids on SH, verify in a book! Or two. Or on additional sites. Who knows when the “antis” will get the idea they can alter Load data online to cause mayhem. Bet it’s been tried by the same types who used to go to gun shows and randomly load guns on tables then cry “gun shows must be stopped.” It’s happened.
Except for a handful of test rounds for any one gun my minimum is 300 or so. Pistol or plinkers…. I won’t even get dies off the shelf for less than 500.
But, yeah… we know our basics.
That said, records should be ingrained in us!
Sirhr
So probably better than average for a Savage.Over a fairly wide area, I believe!
Sirhr
I mean how did you come up with 42 gr as a start load? H4350 and RL16 are the best powders for the CM, one need not look further, forget the speed. Your load is going to be in the 40.5-41gr range (2750-2800 fps).Thank you ! 42 and 44.8 were my starting and max loads, not the published numbers. Both of these loads gave me the best velocity nodes with single digit ES and SD but sounds like I’m in the danger zone so will need to go below 2800 fps to be within the safe pressure zone. Any other powder besides H4350 and R16 that you guys used to get the highest speed and still be under acceptable psi..?
41gr of either powder won’t touch 2750 in a 26”. At least not with hornady or prime brass. I’ve loaded for Bartlein, rock creek, proof, and lothar walther barrel. It takes at least 42gr of either and a 26” barrel to get there with the brass I listed.I mean how did you come up with 42 gr as a start load? H4350 and RL16 are the best powders for the CM, one need not look further, forget the speed. Your load is going to be in the 40.5-41gr range (2750-2800 fps).
When your starting load goes faster than the max load should, its not time to celebrate, its time to stop and evaluate.
He’s going 2840 with 42 gr. Lapua brass is adding pressure. Subtracting one grain will equal about 70 fps.41gr of either powder won’t touch 2750 in a 26”. At least not with hornady or prime brass. I’ve loaded for Bartlein, rock creek, proof, and lothar walther barrel. It takes at least 42gr of either and a 26” barrel to get there with the brass I listed.
Maybe the difference is the lapua brass because even at 42gr, @Rockhurr is clearly over pressure and way to fast for a 140 and a 24” barrel.
I agree completely. 2840 is far and above what he should be seeing. The cratered primers and light ejector stamps give it away even without the velocity numbers. I was just sharing what I see with my brass and powders. It’s the reason working up from a low number is a smart move. Components make a difference.He’s going 2840 with 42 gr. Lapua brass is adding pressure. Subtracting one grain will equal about 70 fps.
Looks like the scope is still intact? Wonder if it still works...
I may be over pressured but I’m seeing this chart taken directly from Alliant’s website and they are loading 140’s past 42 grains… so41gr of either powder won’t touch 2750 in a 26”. At least not with hornady or prime brass. I’ve loaded for Bartlein, rock creek, proof, and lothar walther barrel. It takes at least 42gr of either and a 26” barrel to get there with the brass I listed.
Maybe the difference is the lapua brass because even at 42gr, @Rockhurr is clearly over pressure and way to fast for a 140 and a 24” barrel.
In a Hornady case. That case seems to have more internal volume than yours. I don’t know for sure, but it’s very likely. With the same powder charge in both my hornady and prime brass, there is roughly a 25fps velocity decrease in the hornady from the lower pressure.I may be over pressured but I’m seeing this chart taken directly from Alliant’s website and they are loading 140’s past 42 grains… so![]()
Just my opinion but 3000fps from a 24" 6.5CM is smoking hot even with some of the magic powders like RL26 ( I use the phrase magic powder loosely since I have seen some of the velocities listed but have never neen any real pressure measuring equipment used during those tests )Ok guys! That is pretty scary. But here’s what I got going right now and I really need your guys input. Please take a look at this picture on the brass and the primer crater. I’m shooting 140 ELDM, R16, CCI BR4 primer, Lapua brass (3rd firing), 6.5 creed, 24” Proof 1:7.5 twist. Starting load was 42 gn with speed at 2840 fps, and max load was 44.8 at 3001 fps. My inspection on the cratering and the brass shows almost identical condition so I don’t know if they were both over pressured. Bolt lift on both loads are identical and normal. And based on what I read online, CCI primers tend to crater more than most primers. But the fact that I’m pushing a 140 grain at 3000 fps on a 24” barrel seems chillingly eerie. Please let me know if I’m still safe or if I’m in the kaboom zone. Shine in and keep it professional. Thank you!![]()
41gr of either powder won’t touch 2750 in a 26”. At least not with hornady or prime brass. I’ve loaded for Bartlein, rock creek, proof, and lothar walther barrel. It takes at least 42gr of either and a 26” barrel to get there with the brass I listed.
And your first 42 gr velocity was way faster than theirs was at near 44 grains. You should have stopped.I may be over pressured but I’m seeing this chart taken directly from Alliant’s website and they are loading 140’s past 42 grains… so![]()
I’m 0.015” off the lands.Another pressure which must always be accounted for is YOUR Chamber dimensions , bullet too far into the lands will Spike pressure .
Everyone should know their chamber and the ammo it's fed .