Anyone else got a sloppy input port on their labradar? Mines very finicky when I plug in my battery back and I have to wiggle and wiggle to get steady input to power on. It seems like it only powers on when half or less of the Male end is inserted.
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I don’t have another cable that’ll fit nor do I know of a specific one to purchase. I guess I will ask a couple buddies to see if they have anything laying around.Have you tried another cable to rule that out as the issue?
How do you adjust tension? and yes I already pulled the flap. Kinda annoyed with this as it keeps going off in between sets. For the price of the unit I shouldn’t have this lingering problem.Yeah, I had the same problem. The field fix was remove the rubber flap so it is not putting pressure on the cable. The longer timer fix was to gently adjust the receiver tension and use a longer cable that can be positioned to allow more slack that when positioned properly results in less tension on the jack.
If you pull the flap, you will see the PCB. Be aware of that as you don't really want to get crap in there.
I don’t have another cable that’ll fit nor do I know of a specific one to purchase. I guess I will ask a couple buddies to see if they have anything laying around.
I use a magneeto speed so I have no experience with the labradar but what about rechargeable aa's? I use these high capacity from amazon their supposed to be sanyo's in a different package. https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics...=1568128581&s=gateway&sprefix=aa+rech&sr=8-11
Excellent write up man , having the same issue with mine. Can't even get it to turn on via the USB outletGuys,
Adding a power socket is a proper fix.
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If you are willing to open up the case, can use a soldering iron, and your radar is out of warranty (1 year) - this works and is pretty easy.
I was getting the same frustrating problem with power dropping out from the sloppy Micro USB socket. For a while I was propping up the plug so it presented to the socket on a downward angle but this should not have to be - these things are expensive.
Instructions
Slave the power socket into the hook-up wires coming off the AA battery compartment.
To do this, open the radar - there are 8 silver hex screws - 7 are obvious but the last one is under the "VOID WARRANTY" warning sticker in the battery compartment.
There is spare space above the Micro SD card slot. I drilled a 12mm hole and inserted a cheap $2.00 11.5mm power socket. Then slaved its leads onto the leads coming from the AA compartment to the motherboard. They've insulated the connectors with white glue goop so rather than scrape that off you can just strip the insulation off the black and red leads and parallel them to your socket. In the photo follow the yellow and purple wires from the socket to where you can splice in. Finish it up with heat shrink and Bingo! Problemo Solvered.
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Notes.
The AA battery compartment has been split electrically in half so it is actually two inputs of 3xAA's (4.5V) in parallel. This makes sense because the USB power input is very similar at 5V. The power coming in from your new socket therefore cannot be more than the international USB standard of 5V. Just use your existing external USB battery and change the plug. Or, use a Li-ion rechargeable battery with a voltage regulator set to 5V (see Photo 1).
If you want to carefully strip the insulation off the battery compartment leads you won't need to cut them like I did. Note how I had to divide the yellow and purple leads into two forks because there was not enough slack on the compartment leads to scrunch them up as one join.
Note the 12-way flat ribbon connecting the two halves of the Labradar. You can unplug the ribbon and separate the two halves if you want but there is no need. Just have plenty of flat space on the bench so you can work on the motherboard side while the other half is still connected. If you do want to separate the halves the white flat ribbon socket has a small plastic bar that comes out to free the ribbon - don't lose it or it will be an expensive ... up.
I don't use AA's (too expensive) and use the battery compartment to store a kinetic trigger, which is that black thing in one of the battery bays (Photo 3).
Hope this helps.