How did you get a picture of my trashcan! Are you spying on me!
I did like how the T7 brought back some of the things I liked on the SAR.
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Night Vision Super Yoter C - Any Experience Yet?
- Thread starter rlsmith1
- Start date
I did like how the T7 brought back some of the things I liked on the SAR.
On a serious note, I am cognizant of the weight issue. I’m currently in the middle of a lightweight 6.5CM hunting rifle build. I had a medium contour bergara barreled action chopped to 18”, grayboe lightweight stock and DBM bottom metal on order, Q titanium can, and picked up a Razor LHT as its day optic. I think it should come in under 9.5 pounds all kitted up.
In fact, in line with that weight conscious thinking I’ve ultimately kind of ruled out the Super Yoter Clip on. I’d need about three additional adapters to use it across all the rifles I want and at $200/ea that’s not cheap.
It will be cheaper to get either the Super Yoter R (or even Thermion 2 XP50) and then use QD rings on the 6.5CM build and swap inQD mounts on two other rifles ... my ARs all already use QD mounts.
Plus, the QD on the Yoter R (or XP50) let’s me pop it off and use as a handheld scanner all night and quickly reattach for shots.
I feel like these last two points (coupled with the price savings) are why people seem to buy a lot more R’s than C’s
In fact, in line with that weight conscious thinking I’ve ultimately kind of ruled out the Super Yoter Clip on. I’d need about three additional adapters to use it across all the rifles I want and at $200/ea that’s not cheap.
It will be cheaper to get either the Super Yoter R (or even Thermion 2 XP50) and then use QD rings on the 6.5CM build and swap inQD mounts on two other rifles ... my ARs all already use QD mounts.
Plus, the QD on the Yoter R (or XP50) let’s me pop it off and use as a handheld scanner all night and quickly reattach for shots.
I feel like these last two points (coupled with the price savings) are why people seem to buy a lot more R’s than C’s
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I use all pic rail stuff - no bell adapters.
That said, I have seen too much shit go wrong with QD mounts to want to take anything off and then put it back on and take a critical shot with it.
I have a testing table that weighs 100lbs and has feet to adjust the aim of the optic. Its meant for tall tree work.
I did some "RTZ" testing with NV lasers, clip ons, and the like. The results were not gratifying.
Hi im in the market for a thermal clip on. Is anyone using one of these on 5-25 mag scopes and are there any issues with the minimum magnification with menu functions etc?
Cheers
Mike
Cheers
Mike
Does the C come with a LaRue mount like the R and can you tell if it's removable? I plan to swap between rifles and won't be shooting 1000yds but was hoping for a decent rtz. I believe the mounts on the Bering wmt scopes are epoxied as well as bolted. Was hoping to get mine by this weekend but no shipping notification yet....
The C comes with Bering’s mount. @jstokes1 has been using it with good repeatability. It’s not fancy but it works. It can be replaced with the ADM-Ricco mount. That’s what I did. It conforms to the base. Very solid and repeatable.
ADM mounts are really good IMHO. My Larue mounts chew on my rails awful bad.
I've heard that about them and would rather do adm since that's a known quantity to me. It will be primarily in front of a g3 razor but I'm sure I'll tinker with some other optics so a decent rtz would be nice.
I'm particularly curious to try it with a ta31 on a carbine. Won't know till I have it in hand to play with but it seems like the combo shouldn't weigh much more than a lpvo and mount and have much better balance than when it's run in front of a scope.
I'm particularly curious to try it with a ta31 on a carbine. Won't know till I have it in hand to play with but it seems like the combo shouldn't weigh much more than a lpvo and mount and have much better balance than when it's run in front of a scope.
What's the general consensus on what day scopes would work well? Would a 4-16 ATACR work well or is it going to really need something like a lpvo 1-8 or 1-10 to get good results?
I use mine in front of a 1-10 Razor and a 4-20 ZCO. Read through the posts on here. There’s a bunch of pictures at different magnifications etc. You can see the entirety of the screen at 2-2.5x. Best image for PID on 1x mag (for the Yoter) is up to 6x optical, but works very well up to 10x. At 2x digital mag on the Yoter, you can go up to 15-18x to assist with shot placement. Look at the pics. They convey what you can expect.
Yea, i am sure a 4x bottom end is going to be fine from the pics i have seen. Just wondering about how much of the screen you lose with only 4x on the bottom end. It is kinda hard to tell from the pics. Sounds like a 1 or 2x on yhe bottom end is ideal.
PA GLx 4-16x here. No border info visible, but all the centered menu buttons you need, are, as are the Advanced menu buttons. IIRC in advanced, you loose 1 item at the top (ClearView?), but it's not a daily use one. Totally usable with a base of 4...once I actually commit everything to memory, it's probably even easier.
1st of probably several stupid questions....did your devices come with instructions? If not is there a good place to download them?
Mine did not, supposedly, Bering is still writing it according to my vendor. Luckily, it's mostly an Iray Clip CH50, so I used the manual (v1) at the bottom of this page:
Iray CH50
2nd stupid question. What is the function of the quick tap nuke? Closing the cap and holding the button seems to be a traditional nuke and clears things up as well as leaving a ghost image similar to my nox if the cover is open.
The quick tap on black hot brightens the image and causes glare like if I'd cranked the brightness all the way up. On white hot it causes fogging around the edges and tunneling. In both cases it worsens the image and I have to close the cap and hold nuke to clear things up. I think there's an auto nuke function but haven't tried that yet.
The quick tap on black hot brightens the image and causes glare like if I'd cranked the brightness all the way up. On white hot it causes fogging around the edges and tunneling. In both cases it worsens the image and I have to close the cap and hold nuke to clear things up. I think there's an auto nuke function but haven't tried that yet.
Seems like mine does this if my batteries are almost dead. Fresh set of batts seems to solve it. YMMV.
It shows full charge but I'll throw in some new ones. Wonder if it's an internal shutter issue which I'm assuming it has. You could have experienced similar if your batteries were too low to operate it. What exactly is the quick nuke supposed to accomplish versus the closed cap long nuke? If I remember right the iray instructions listed the short as calibration and the long as background calibration.
I'm not seeing where closing the cap is mentioned at all - only that a quick press on the "C" (6) button is Shutter, and a long press is Background. I'm a thermal newb with weapons mounted, so no clue on the diff. This is using the Clip CH50 v1 Manual (which ours is closest too). I was actually going to try to Gray Market Import the Version 2, as it's designed for a higher base mag optic - but went Yoter-C instead. Haven't put a ton of time in with mine yet, but did run through some stuff, and didn't notice any funky image when test NUC'ing short and long presses. I'll try again and see if anything looks weird.
When you long nuc it if you don't have the cap closed it should have a ghost image of whatever it was pointed at. I'm dealing with rain/snow/fog so it took me a bit to get it sorted but I'm getting a very nice image now considering the conditions.
Running black hot with brightness 1 sharpness 1 and the eyeball turned on. It seems the short nuc nucs the center and the long nuc flattens the whole image. I think the tunneling issue was caused by having the brightness and sharpness turned up too high in poor conditions.
Running black hot with brightness 1 sharpness 1 and the eyeball turned on. It seems the short nuc nucs the center and the long nuc flattens the whole image. I think the tunneling issue was caused by having the brightness and sharpness turned up too high in poor conditions.
thanks for sharing the manual; I called Bering Optics twice to get one and have yet to get a response. I bought my Super Yoter C back in July and thought it strange that an optic of this price didn't come with a manual [mine included the manual for the Hogster C]
Two questions:
1. My ADM Mount has a 1.5" Optical Center, the Yoter-C, on it's Rail Mount, looks to be ~1.7". BoBro has confirmed theirs is 1.7", and I assume the ADM would be the same. I know the zeroing procedure takes this height diff out (and when I zeroed the factory setting was damn close - only a few clicks were needed) but is there any other downside to not having perfectly center-aligned lens'?
Which brings me to:
2. Objective Clamp Mounts. I know the thinking is you want nothing putting pressure on the scope, but is this theory, or does it manifest itself in real world shooting? Has anyone in here mounted this way and gone "Whoa, that was a bad idea". I have no room one 12.5" with LAM and Pad.
Thanks!
1. My ADM Mount has a 1.5" Optical Center, the Yoter-C, on it's Rail Mount, looks to be ~1.7". BoBro has confirmed theirs is 1.7", and I assume the ADM would be the same. I know the zeroing procedure takes this height diff out (and when I zeroed the factory setting was damn close - only a few clicks were needed) but is there any other downside to not having perfectly center-aligned lens'?
Which brings me to:
2. Objective Clamp Mounts. I know the thinking is you want nothing putting pressure on the scope, but is this theory, or does it manifest itself in real world shooting? Has anyone in here mounted this way and gone "Whoa, that was a bad idea". I have no room one 12.5" with LAM and Pad.
Thanks!
Not sure on 1. but 2. seems like a bad idea to me because it would magnify the vibrations to the optic. I’d definitely prefer a pic mounted for that reason and that it’s able to be mounted to every rifle (double you have the same scope on every rifle).
Also, @kirsch mentioned am LRF version of the Super Yoter in another thread. Will and LRF make it to the Yoter C as well?
Also, @kirsch mentioned am LRF version of the Super Yoter in another thread. Will and LRF make it to the Yoter C as well?
I have heard nothing about the LRF as part of the clip on family at this time.
I've had my Yoter Clip-on for a little over a month. It has a held zero perfectly with the crappy factory mount. The image is spectacular! I've had it in the field twice using it back and forth as a scanner and weapon mounted. In scanner mode it doesn't quite match my halo xrf, oddly enough, in clip-on mode I can identify hogs/deer at greater distances than I can with the XRF 
.
Here are a couple of cell phone pics off of my back porch last night through a Tig Ir and the Yoter C. Both pictures are taken handheld through a Zeiss diavari 2.5-10x50 with each respective clip-on. For reference, the power lines are 1400 yards and the far building is 2,450yards.
.Here are a couple of cell phone pics off of my back porch last night through a Tig Ir and the Yoter C. Both pictures are taken handheld through a Zeiss diavari 2.5-10x50 with each respective clip-on. For reference, the power lines are 1400 yards and the far building is 2,450yards.
Sorry, the top picture is the TIG, the lower picture is the Yoter C
I have one, it is amazing. Worth every penny.
I'm not sure if I'm lucky, but I have a only 1-2 moa change from gun to gun without adjusting the screen which is acceptable to me.
I definitely plan on getting the American Defense Mount
Yes, they are available. They are the same as for the Rico. I have one. Works awesome.
Like others have said the adm rico mount. The 1.7 vrs 1.5 doesn't seem to matter. I would recommend if you plan on getting the adm to get it up front before you do all your zeros or you'll be doing all that over again.
With adm mount and 1.57 scope mount.
With adm mount and 1.57 scope mount.
One of the best photos that I've taken through the Super yoter. Using a Vortex Razor Gen III 1-10x24
If unv and outdoor legacy are out of stock I got mine from thermal optics plus. Never heard of them before but they where the only stock I could find. Everything went smoothly and I had it in a few days.
Not only is the image clear, it is more detailed than what the TigIR produces especially in inclimate weather.
I just saw this SHOT Show report on Varminter.com that mentioned the Super Hogster/Yoter with LRF with a release date of August 22
More crappy cell phone pics, these taken tonight with much more humidity than last night. 4x on the Zeiss diavari and 1x, 2x and 4x digital zoom on the Yoter respectively:
*Power lines at 1400 and building behind power lines at 2500...
*Setting on black Hot
*Power lines at 1400 and building behind power lines at 2500...
*Setting on black Hot
Can anybody tell me what this is? A Mongolian throwing star? Maybe a relic leftover from the Star Ship Enterprise?
I'm trying to calibrate the compass, but I can't figure out which way to hold or rotate the scope... Lol
Does anybody know for sure?
I'm trying to calibrate the compass, but I can't figure out which way to hold or rotate the scope... Lol
Does anybody know for sure?
The scope I'm using actually came with a manual. It tells you to rotate the scope along 3 axes 360* each. I'm confused if those axes are in the horizontal or vertical plane. The compass is giving me some weird readings, so I just want to make sure I'm calibrating it right.
Thanks.
I shoot a lot of PRS stuff and I have hooked the windage knob of my scope against the front of a barricade and pulled the trigger. Multiple times. The scope took the full force of the recoil and was absolutely fine with no change to my zero or anything.
You're not going to hurt something like a G3 Razor or an NX8 by hanging a thermal off the end.
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