Suppressors Suppressor help for a someone new to suppressors

[sled_mack]

I know there are a few other "new guy" or "first time" suppressor threads. But this is a big purchase, and with the paperwork involved it is worth getting it right the first time.

I am looking to purchase my first suppressor. It will be used on a few rifles:
260 bolt (precision)
308 bolt (precision)
308 semi (precision setup)
223 semi (DMR setup, not carbine/mag dump gun)

First priority is accuracy.
Second priority is light weight.
Third priority is sound dampening.
Cost is always a factor. But I've been around enough to know that most expensive doesn't always mean best for what I want, and sometimes the best fit for what I want can be found in the low end. So I'm not ruling out any price range at this time. (I'm pretty sure my wife won't read this, so I think it is safe for me to say this!)

Besides general range time, I shoot in tactical competitions. So there may be some stages where there are "rapid fire" strings, but usually limited to 10 rounds - and how fast can I really go with a bolt gun? Sure, a little faster with a semi, but these are not big targets in close, aiming and follow through are still required.

Use in matches is what I see driving a trade-off. Bigger cans are more quiet, smaller cans are lighter weight. I'm not sure what side of the argument to be on with this. I'm already carrying a ton of crap, so what is a few more ounces? Or, if I shaved a few ounces from all my gear I wouldn't be carrying a ton of crap? I'd like to hear other people's thoughts on this, but until having/using one for a day it is going to be tough to decide.

I don't see any need for a QD mount for my needs. However, if there is a good, valid reason to go that route, I will consider it.

I think the thread on cans really can be broken down to 2 sub-categories: direct thread on the barrel and thread onto a brake/flash hider. Considering accuracy is my first priority, which mounting setup is best? I'll admit I'd probably have a brake on the rifle when the can is not installed, so having a brake that doubles as the mount for the can seems like a nice setup. I'd only be installing/removing the can, not removing brake, install can, remove can, install brake. It also eliminates the need for a thread protector in case I did want to remove the can while at the range or at a match.

Lastly, I will very shortly be moving to Slatington, PA. Any recommendations for a dealer in that area would also be very much appreciated.

If I missed any information that is needed to make a recommendation, please let me know. Like I said, I want this purchase to be as "right" as possible. I don't want to wait 6 months and say "shit, I should have gotten the other one."

Thanks,
Steve

 

[JBM_DC]

Thunder Beast Arms Corporation [TBAC] | Products | 30BA

Not sure there is much else to look for.

I personally do not run this and run a direct mount suppressor made by Silencer Tech, but also do not swing it between rifles. If I were to be moving the can around a little I would not hesitate to go with any ThunderBeast offerings.

 

[texas_vet00]

TBAC for threaded bolt and SF for "braked others"...

 

[Donr13]

30ba

 

[DeadNoise]

Surefire.

 

[SilentG21]

Surefire +1

 

[charger23]

New TBAC braked can.


"Peace is that brief glorious moment in history, when everybody stands around reloading"

-- Thomas Jefferson

 

[itieknots7]

Below is my generic response to anyone that is new to rifle suppressors.

You seem to have a good grasp of what you are looking for. In your situation I would look at what you want to suppress more often (bolt vs. Semi).

If bolt I would buy the new TBAC CB9 or CB7.

If semi I would buy a Surefire SOCOM762-RC.



-------------------------------------------------------------------

Generic Response:


First thing to do is make a list of your priorities in a suppressor.

Rank the following by value. (Below is my ranking from most to least important).

-Mount/locking mechsnism
-POI shift
-Accuracy
-Blowback on semiautomatic weapons
-Signature (flash etc.)
-Durability
-Customer service/support
-Weight
-db reduction
-Price
-If the cool kids are running these

With all that being listed I went with Surefire. It arguably has the best QD mounting system of any of the big name companys, the least POI shift in a qd ststem, durable enough for the military (rated for 300 WM), has good accuracy and their customer service has been really great the last couple of years.*

The cons: they are not the quietest, and their price is more expensive than budget model cans.*


Regarding their brakes: they are pretty effective (my SR25 barely moves when the brake is attached, and the mounts are 115-130 if you shop around.*

My top 3 choices to look at for a qd can to be used hard:

1. Surefire SOCOM762-RC
2. Silencerco Saker
3. Silencerco Specwar


If you are not going to be shooting fast and on a lot of 5.56 than go titanium:

1. Thunderbeast 30CB7 or 30CB9.




Edit to add: My first can was a Surefire SOCOM762-RC. I now have a TBAC CB9 on order for my bolt guns.

 

[Rancid Coolaid]

For your needs, I'd buy 2, and one should be the Thunderbeast. (I bought one, thinking I'd swap it gun-to-gun, and eventually bought a few more. It's kinda like moving a scope around: everything changes when things move around.) That, and why get one at full price when you can get 2 for twice the price!

BATFE rules are changing, get 2 while you can.

 

[sled_mack]

Help me to understand something. My thought is that part of the price of the SF is for the QD setup, which I don't think I need. Educate me on what I don't know, please. From the responses suggesting to go SF, there has to be more to it than just the fact that they have a QD setup (which by everything I have read is very good).

Likewise, I don't understand how the TBAC can be so good for a bolt gun, but not for a semi (being used in a similar way)?

As far as switching the can between hosts - I didn't expect it to be like switching scopes. I expected there to be some known, repeatable POI shift that I could record in my data book and adjust my shots for that offset when I put the can on. Not so? More repeatable with QD attach than direct thread?

Please don't take this as argumentative. I don't know what I don't know at this detail level. Based on the responses above, I'm now aware that there is something (or a lot) I don't know, but I'm still not sure what it is? (And maybe it's been posted and I'm not seeing it?)

As for the question of what I will suppress most - I am guessing the semis. They are more fun to shoot, and I think they require more focus to shoot accurately. Especially 223 in the wind out past 300 yards. Although for matches beyond 600 yards, I will probably fall back to the 260 bolt gun - I'll take the ballistic advantage at the longer distance.

As far as buying multiple cans, I probably will, but I wanted to get a 22 rimfire and a 9mm pistol as those extra cans. If buying a can for my bolt guns and another for the semis is really the right thing to do, I won't rule it out. I just want to understand why I am doing it.

Thanks again.
Steve

 

[DeadNoise]

Surefires are light, and do a good job knocking down the noise, not the quietest I've ever heard but a good job, I've got a 7.62 and a 338lm can and can shoot all day no ear plugs if wanted. you can do as i have and put SF muzzle brakes on your rifles and just swap the can around to whatever rifle you prefer. My POI is always same on my SF, on my gem tech can it opens up my groups to 2-3inches thats why i went to SF.

 

[Graham]

If you want a precision can get a threaded TBAC

 

[ZombieMonkey]

TBAC 30BA if one is available locally or wait for the newer CB style mount. That's my vote anyways for a lightweight precision can meeting those needs. I've got heavier cans and other true QD cans, but for precision I like the Thunderbeast.

 

[Rancid Coolaid]

In no particular order:

Some titanium cans are rated to full auto, some are not. Titanium reacts differently to high heat than does steel. This is why some manufacturers recommend steel for full auto applications - and why many mag dumpers recommend steel cans over titanium cans.

Switching is consistent - usually - just as many scope mounts can consistently be removed and replaced. Moving a scope in a good mount from one gun to another seems like a decent plan, but it means keeping up with 2 separate zeroes for the same scope. Likewise, there is a zero for suppressed and a zero for un-suppressed fire, it isn't undoable, it just gets old. Most do it when they get their first, and it leads many to getting a second and third. It works just fine, but becomes a hassle that another can solves with ease.

Buy the 30-cal and go from there. Maybe moving them around won't bug you and you can get by with one. I moved one for awhile. But, I like my 223 can on my AR MUCH more than I liked my 30-cal on an AR, it is quieter, smaller, and lighter. Definitely get the 22LR, they are hella fun and relatively inexpensive.

Hope it helps.

 

[itieknots7]

Help me to understand something. My thought is that part of the price of the SF is for the QD setup, which I don't think I need. Educate me on what I don't know, please. From the responses suggesting to go SF, there has to be more to it than just the fact that they have a QD setup (which by everything I have read is very good).

Likewise, I don't understand how the TBAC can be so good for a bolt gun, but not for a semi (being used in a similar way)?

As far as switching the can between hosts - I didn't expect it to be like switching scopes. I expected there to be some known, repeatable POI shift that I could record in my data book and adjust my shots for that offset when I put the can on. Not so? More repeatable with QD attach than direct thread?

Please don't take this as argumentative. I don't know what I don't know at this detail level. Based on the responses above, I'm now aware that there is something (or a lot) I don't know, but I'm still not sure what it is? (And maybe it's been posted and I'm not seeing it?)

As for the question of what I will suppress most - I am guessing the semis. They are more fun to shoot, and I think they require more focus to shoot accurately. Especially 223 in the wind out past 300 yards. Although for matches beyond 600 yards, I will probably fall back to the 260 bolt gun - I'll take the ballistic advantage at the longer distance.

As far as buying multiple cans, I probably will, but I wanted to get a 22 rimfire and a 9mm pistol as those extra cans. If buying a can for my bolt guns and another for the semis is really the right thing to do, I won't rule it out. I just want to understand why I am doing it.

Thanks again.
Steve

Surefire is recommended a lot because their mounts are rock solid, they have a minimal POI shift fir a qd system, they are accurate, built with tough steel (I.e inconel) and have less blowback than alot of cans (important for semi auto use). They are not the quietest or lightest and one of the more expensive.... But worth it in my opnion.

Regarding TBAC and semi auto: they are fine for semi auto fire, but they are titanium and not meant for mag dumps, and I would stretch that farther and not recommend them for carbine classes.

If you can only swing one can right now. I would buy a SF SOCOM762-RC. Will rock on your semi autos, is only a slightly heavier than a TBAC CB9 and the POI and accuracy should be about as good (I don't have a TBAC to compare to yet, still waiting on my CB9).

22LR:
Sparrow SS for rifle applications
Spectre ii for pistol

9mm can.
Octane HD2

 

[SilentG21]

In the end you get what you pay for. I am not knocking any competitor of Surefire. I went with Surefire because of their reputation with Special Forces. Yes there is more to Surefire cans than the QD system. Machining tolerances are so tight you can't fit a tick's leghair between surfaces. It will outlast the rifle you mount it on and the next 5. They are built like a Bradley Tank. Get one and be done searching.

 

[jasonfaz]

Look at the SAS Resistor and the Arbiter. The Resistor comes in at 12.8 oz. The TBAC cans are also fantastic when it comes to accuracy and repeatability.

 

[tkp401119]

TBAC 30P-1 for bolt
Saker 762 for semi
Octane 9 for 9mm
Sparrow for 22LR

You are eventually going to buy all four, so you might as well have them sooner than later. Moving cans around gets old and thread on for semi auto is not ideal.

 

[Gunfighter14e2]

First priority is accuracy.
Second priority is light weight.
Third priority is sound dampening.

1st = Direct mount
2nd= titanium (but built to stand up to full auto)
3rd= Mono-core instead of baffles, and the can size at least 1.5" in diameter X 10" long

 

[dynamic research]

I would call Dale at Elite Iron. I run the Bravo1 on my 260 all three of my 308's and 300 win mag. I get between 1/2 and 1 moa of vertical sight deflection on all of them. Your dope will be the same, just add in the drop and there you have it. I would get the CQB can for th 223. The 30 cal can will have too much air space between the bullet and supressor. Sound reduction is reduced and it most likely shoot unpredictably due to different exit pressures. Give Dale a call and he will answer all your questions.

 

[wfjames22]

...The 30 cal can will have too much air space between the bullet and supressor. ... and it most likely shoot unpredictably due to different exit pressures...

I've never had this happen or heard of this happening to anyone shooting 223 through a 30cal can. Have you got any empirical data on this? Does anyone else?

 

[ZombieMonkey]

I've never had this happen or heard of this happening to anyone shooting 223 through a 30cal can. Have you got any empirical data on this? Does anyone else?

I can guarantee you that he does not, it's gun store BS. Plenty of people shoot subcalibers threw their cans with no issue, his statement is simply not true.

 

[dynamic research]

Zombiemonkey, never owned a gun store and never will. I have personal experence with this happening. Had 2 ar 15;s that shot .102 inch groups. Put a 30 cal can on it, i will not name the supressor company but it wasnt my can. The groups spread to 4 to 5 inch groups. Took the can off and the groups went back down to what it was. I am not saying that all cans will do the same, just with this can it did. Most have different systems for sound supression, this could have been the case. I was just posting what I have seen. You can guarentee that it wont happen, but will you by the OP's supressor if it dosent?? Its amazing how you say plenty of people have shot subcalbers through thier cans with no issues, apparently you have not done it? Take it for what it is worth, this is just what I have seen.

 

[velillen]

I shoot 223 out of my 762-sdn6 and have never noticed any of the problems you described. Shoots exactly the same with and without the can other than some poi shift. And yes tons of people shoot subcalibers...especially 223 out of 30cal cans. Have to remember not all cans are built for smallest group sizes. Some lean more towards noise reduction while others are built like tanks.

As for precision ivve been happy with my tbac 30-p1. Great can. Just make sure to pick up a suppressor cover for it

 

[itieknots7]

Zombiemonkey, never owned a gun store and never will. I have personal experence with this happening. Had 2 ar 15;s that shot .102 inch groups. Put a 30 cal can on it, i will not name the supressor company but it wasnt my can. The groups spread to 4 to 5 inch groups. Took the can off and the groups went back down to what it was. I am not saying that all cans will do the same, just with this can it did. Most have different systems for sound supression, this could have been the case. I was just posting what I have seen. You can guarentee that it wont happen, but will you by the OP's supressor if it dosent?? Its amazing how you say plenty of people have shot subcalbers through thier cans with no issues, apparently you have not done it? Take it for what it is worth, this is just what I have seen.

Wow..... Your one time over countless others does not constitute empirical evidence.

It was probably the mount/barrel profile/can. What was the can?



Shooting sub calibers through a larger bore does NOT degrade accuracy in "quality" cans. Even sound reduction isn't that compromised do to the larger volume making up for it.

Now if you are comparing the same size can (I.e SF 5.56-RC vs 762-mini) then the 762 will be louder due to the larger bore size while having the same volume as the 5.56 can.

 

[dynamic research]

Never said I it was emperical data, and never said that I did a test on several cans to prove this test. Just stated that this happened with a certian can on two different rifles.
The OP asked for input so I gave what I have seen. Yours may be different. I dont shoot sub calibers through my supressors. But these people did and that is what we found was
The problem. Your experence may be different. I am not saying that it happens all the time. You can take it as experence that someone had or you can pick it apart and say that it never happened to you or your friends. In any case, i am not concerned, pick me apart all you want, if you do see it happen, how will you feel then. I can bet you wont post an apology.

 

[Zak Smith]

We have a very large number of customers who shoot subcalibers, be it .223, 6mm, 6.5mm, or 7mm through .30 cal cans, or any of those and .30 cal through our .338 cans. Works awesome.

A can that is accurate on its native caliber should be as accurate or moreso with a subcaliber.

If someone came to us and said his can shot awesome on his GAP or AI or whatever but made his .223 shoot worse, the first thing we'll recommend is to check the threads and shoulder on the .223. That'll be the problem 99% of the time.

hope this helps

 

[itieknots7]

Never said I it was emperical data, and never said that I did a test on several cans to prove this test. Just stated that this happened with a certian can on two different rifles.
The OP asked for input so I gave what I have seen. Yours may be different. I dont shoot sub calibers through my supressors. But these people did and that is what we found was
The problem. Your experence may be different. I am not saying that it happens all the time. You can take it as experence that someone had or you can pick it apart and say that it never happened to you or your friends. In any case, i am not concerned, pick me apart all you want, if you do see it happen, how will you feel then. I can bet you wont post an apology.

Apologize for what?

You made a factual statement: "The 30 cal can will have too much air space between the bullet and suppressor" with only your "one time experience" to back it up.

You refuse to name your setup or can that was used so that others with more experience could help you diagnose the problem you saw.

 

[223ai]

We have a very large number of customers who shoot subcalibers, be it .223, 6mm, 6.5mm, or 7mm through .30 cal cans, or any of those and .30 cal through our .338 cans. Works awesome.

A can that is accurate on its native caliber should be as accurate or moreso with a subcaliber.

If someone came to us and said his can shot awesome on his GAP or AI or whatever but made his .223 shoot worse, the first thing we'll recommend is to check the threads and shoulder on the .223. That'll be the problem 99% of the time.

hope this helps

I shoot a 30p-1 on my 223ai, and originally had terrible results when fireforming...I'm talking 1.5moa+ groups. I checked the threads, and they were cut to TBAC specs by an excellent gunsmith, so I put an SWR Omega 300 on the rifle and had the same results. I checked for baffle strikes, I checked that I had the same lot of powder, primers, 75 amaxes, lapua brass...etc...etc...It wasn't until I screwed the 30p-1 back on the gun, and shot formed and worked-up "full power" 223ai loads with 82 bergers that the groups tightened up to where they were supposed to be. It was a night and day difference.

I've shot 308, 260, 6.5x47, and standard long range .223 ammo through my 30p-1 with excellent results across the board, so the 223ai forming issue had me stumped. I am chalking it up to a bad lot of bullets and a weak powder charge. I continue to fireform with my thunderbeast and have had no further issues with forming or fully formed loads and accuracy. It's the most well made suppressor that I own.

 

[Zak Smith]

How did the fireforming loads shoot with no suppressor?

 

[223ai]

How did the fireforming loads shoot with no suppressor?

Around 3/4" with loads that I just threw together without much thought, which is what had me scratching my head the most. I took it back to the gunsmith and we checked to make sure that everything was tight on the gun, that my S&B hadn't died, that the threads were cut to TBAC specs, and everything was good to go. The gun shot the same way with my SWR Omega 300 as well, and only for the first 150 fireforming rounds on the gun. I switched to Berger bullets, and a stiffer forming load, and haven't any problems since.

My formed loads, with pointed 82 bergers, 24" brux, TBAC 30p-1, at 3010, shoots wonderfully. It's like shooting an airgun that stays supersonic to 1300 yards. I'll be shooting this combo at Rifles Only this weekend.

 

[Zak Smith]

Awesome.

That's strange with that one load though...

 

[ZombieMonkey]

Zombiemonkey, never owned a gun store and never will. I have personal experence with this happening. Had 2 ar 15;s that shot .102 inch groups. Put a 30 cal can on it, i will not name the supressor company but it wasnt my can. The groups spread to 4 to 5 inch groups. Took the can off and the groups went back down to what it was. I am not saying that all cans will do the same, just with this can it did. Most have different systems for sound supression, this could have been the case. I was just posting what I have seen. You can guarentee that it wont happen, but will you by the OP's supressor if it dosent?? Its amazing how you say plenty of people have shot subcalbers through thier cans with no issues, apparently you have not done it? Take it for what it is worth, this is just what I have seen.

I say gun store BS because it's the same type of uninformed BS you hear when you walk into a gun store and hear some of the FUDD's talking guns. You hear a lot of crazy shit.

I've NEVER seen a case where a suppressor has caused an issue running sub-caliber with one of my cans or anyone else's. If the gun is in good shape and shoots well, it should shoot well suppressed as long as the threads are to spec and concentric to the bore and the can was machined properly. I have quite a few cans and am always getting more or playing with new cans at demo shoots, I have not seen a single issue.


It's like Zak says, there are plenty of us doing it out there with great results. If you have a problem, it's rarely the can itself and usually has to do with the threading of the firearm being up to spec and concentric to the bore.

 

[Graham]

I shoot 6xc through my 30P-1 all the time with absolutely no detriment to accuracy.

 

[jasonfaz]

I think the one verifiable data point you could take from what Dynamic Research said was the sound reduction as aspect. There will be anywhere from 3-6 decibels in sound reduction advantages you'd get from using a dedicated .223 can and a 30 cal or .338 on everything else. I know it might be priority #3 now, but it might creep up the list after you get hooked on that first buy. It's addicting as about anything could be IMO. Another thing to think about is the varying applications one might have with each of those rifles and the different requirements associated with them. It's not as simple of a choice as it appears sometimes - and unfortunately - it occasionally takes buying a can you think you want for what you think you need and fine tune the req's for your next can from there. Just my 2¢...

 

[jasonfaz]

BTW, we DESPERATELY NEED a Sniper's Hide Silencer Shoot. The top 20-30 cans in each caliber, a bunch of different hosts, a bunch of different loads, and video-taped head to head comparisons on key functional aspects like accuracy, POI shift, sound reduction, all specs, etc. etc. THAT would be invaluable info! I'll be the first to commit all of my cans and hosts for testing. I just want to shoot at least a little bit! C'mon man!!

 

[Donr13]

Zombiemonkey, never owned a gun store and never will. I have personal experence with this happening. Had 2 ar 15;s that shot .102 inch groups. Put a 30 cal can on it, i will not name the supressor company but it wasnt my can. The groups spread to 4 to 5 inch groups. Took the can off and the groups went back down to what it was. I am not saying that all cans will do the same, just with this can it did. Most have different systems for sound supression, this could have been the case. I was just posting what I have seen. You can guarentee that it wont happen, but will you by the OP's supressor if it dosent?? Its amazing how you say plenty of people have shot subcalbers through thier cans with no issues, apparently you have not done it? Take it for what it is worth, this is just what I have seen.

Sounds like your threads may have been out of spec. I shoot a .30 cal can on .223 spr and have had great accuracy. Switch over to my 308 and its still great.

I would have your gun checked out. This is usually the problem 99% of the time as stated by thunderbeast. I don't think any of us here could argue with that since they produce one of the best precision cans. I am sure they are the most qualified to answer that question.

 

[dynamic research]

I dont know the brand, and i didnt try it on my rifle. I believe the ownerswill be getting new supressors. at least that is what i advised them to do. I dont dought it a bit, supressor
advancemet has come a long way.

 

[Donr13]

I dont know the brand, and i didnt try it on my rifle. I believe the ownerswill be getting new supressors. at least that is what i advised them to do. I dont dought it a bit, supressor
advancemet has come a long way.

How can you make a statement like the accuracy opened up 4-5'' on equipment that is not yours and claim it is the suppressors fault due to the air space between the bullet from a larger caliber can??

I hope for the owners sake they hold off on your advice to buy a new can and start by checking their thread specs. I would hate to see someone throw money down the drain on a new can only to put said can back on a rifle with bad threads and produce the same results.

 

[wfjames22]

1-don't listen to "dynamic research"...his snipershide handle is misleading and should be changed

2-buy a 30cal can to use on the rifles you listed
2a-option 1 is to buy a QD can since you will be using it on differently threaded rifles (223 AR will be different than the others you listed)
2b-option 2 is to buy a TBAC 30P-1 (or similar) precision oriented, direct thread 30cal can to use on the first 3 rifles and an adapter for your 223 AR for now because you WILL buy more cans in the future and get a QD 30cal or 22cal can later (or at the same time if you can swing it) for AR use

3-buy at least one rimfire can (Sparrow is my choice) if you like to shoot 22LR at all...they are the shit

My 2 cents...I have been in this game for a little while and it's a never ending addiction. Once you start shooting suppressed, it's the only way. I only have one in the ATF pipeline right now and know what my next two submissions will be, just need the checkbook to recover for a minute.

 

[dynamic research]

Because I was the one who test fired the rifles and know how they shoot. They were custom built for them. I was involved with every process from machining the bullit lowers to building
the rifle. The rifles shot .103 groups. When the supresssor they had was used, the groups opened up. The supressor was removed and the groups returned to normal. The only comon
denominatio was the supressor, because it did the same on both rifles.

 

[ZombieMonkey]

 

[Donr13]

Because I was the one who test fired the rifles and know how they shoot. They were custom built for them. I was involved with every process from machining the bullit lowers to building
the rifle. The rifles shot .103 groups. When the supresssor they had was used, the groups opened up. The supressor was removed and the groups returned to normal. The only comon
denominatio was the supressor, because it did the same on both rifles.

I am going to recommend you read "suppressors for dummies" as you do not seem to understand how this works. Of course the groups would return to normal with no can attached as the bad threads would have no impact on a weapon with no attachment on the end. Lets think long and hard about this before you reply to this.

For somebody who can shoot .103 groups apparently you don't seem to understand the mechanics of how each part of a gun contributes to accuracy downrange.

Lets see a few pics of these groups to prove your claims and I don't mean one possibly lucky ass group that everyone gets once in a while... I wont hold my breath.

 

[MLC]

223AI through an SWR Omega(pre 300 model) 5 shots at 100 off a bipod.
I've never had issues with my AR or Ackley through that can.
Barrels were threaded by CLE and APA.

 

[sled_mack]

Leaning towards the TBAC 30CB9 (or maybe 7). A lot of the recommendations I had to use a direct thread were for accuracy (over a QD setup). I'm thinking the thread on over brake should be just as accurate as a direct thread. Correct or not?

I am thinking this will be my first brake. Possibly followed closely by another brake for the AR-10 and AR-15. Worst case, I use this can on those too, but just be careful about rate of fire through them.

Thanks for all the help and discussion.

 

[Donr13]

Leaning towards the TBAC 30CB9 (or maybe 7). A lot of the recommendations I had to use a direct thread were for accuracy (over a QD setup). I'm thinking the thread on over brake should be just as accurate as a direct thread. Correct or not?

I am thinking this will be my first brake. Possibly followed closely by another brake for the AR-10 and AR-15. Worst case, I use this can on those too, but just be careful about rate of fire through them.

Thanks for all the help and discussion.

I think the 30cb9 would be an awesome first can, the brake attach system is very accurate and it's fast to move between rifles.

 

[itieknots7]

Leaning towards the TBAC 30CB9 (or maybe 7). A lot of the recommendations I had to use a direct thread were for accuracy (over a QD setup). I'm thinking the thread on over brake should be just as accurate as a direct thread. Correct or not?

I am thinking this will be my first brake. Possibly followed closely by another brake for the AR-10 and AR-15. Worst case, I use this can on those too, but just be careful about rate of fire through them.

Thanks for all the help and discussion.

Good choice.

It should be just as accurate.

Silencershop has no eta on the new CB9 series so I ordered directly through TBAC. The default color is black, but you can specify FDE for the same price.

 

[sled_mack]

That leaves 2 questions:

Given the lag time between decision and having it in my hand, should I be getting a different can for the AR's right away? I'd be looking at the SF SOCOM 7.62 or the Saker 7.62. Thoughts?

Any recommendations on a TBAC dealer in Eastern PA, or a class 3 FFL to do the transfer?

Thanks.

 

[Donr13]

If you have the ar can in stock now get that one rolling while you wait on the tbac. No need to bundle them together. Its just an extra copy of a trust and you are on your way.

 

[itieknots7]

That leaves 2 questions:

Given the lag time between decision and having it in my hand, should I be getting a different can for the AR's right away? I'd be looking at the SF SOCOM 7.62 or the Saker 7.62. Thoughts?

Any recommendations on a TBAC dealer in Eastern PA, or a class 3 FFL to do the transfer?

Thanks.

I personally bought a Socom762-RC but the Saker wasn't out yet and the ability to buy a 5.56 end cap is tempting if you plan on only buying one AR can. The Saker is by all accounts quieter, but they haven't been out in the wild long enough to be truly vetted in terms of POI, longevity and accuracy.

I would definitely buy from Silencer shop for the non TBAC can, their prices are the best.

As for dealers... Call around and find out what their transfer fees are. If you find one with an indoor range you can play with your cans early.