I was pretty set on getting a trash panda for mine. I think I'm going to look elsewhere now.
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The Fix from Q
- Thread starter Tyler455
- Start date
*BREAKING NEWS: Q-B/T rift was actually a cyber attack by a 5 or 6 letter communist country to get people to not buy his guns so less Americans can defend themselves. So later when they try to take over we won’t have such short bolt throws and such lightness with such accuracy. I think they turned the two sides against each other. Because there would be NO other logical explaination. The commies were like “damn that gun is revolutionary... AND it has a Bartlein barrel chambered by Dave Tooley? We can’t have this. Have our tech dept send KB a text.. make it look like it’s from B/T. Say something about his mom or his dog or something. At the same time send one to B/T and make it look like it’s from KB and say something similar. We must end this progression now and not let this product go mainstream. It will only strengthen the West”...
I’m gonna start a go fund me to fix this. Who’s in?
I love this damn rifle. I can’t stand this because It’s just not right. You’re right. It’s his company and he can do what he wants. But if I were him I’d Call me PRONTO.
*obviously fake news
I’m gonna start a go fund me to fix this. Who’s in?
I love this damn rifle. I can’t stand this because It’s just not right. You’re right. It’s his company and he can do what he wants. But if I were him I’d Call me PRONTO.
*obviously fake news
This was covered a bunch of pages back, do some digging and you’ll find it. Long story short, no it should not
Not a big deal as the trigger is not in direct contact with the bolt/sear so in essence you're just taking up the slack in the system with the first stage.
It doesn’t. But when putting my gun back together after seeing another members post about it I can see how It could get like that. So I carefully seated the bolt release spring and did the most rearward screw first ensuring the spring was seated and compressed straight down. Did you take yours apart?
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Awesome... I just wanted to makes sure it wasn't changing the angle of the bolt face or anything weird like that.
Haha now that I know that you have 6 kids I see where this everyone just needs to get along attitude comes from. Gotta respect that. Last night I was opening up my taper adapter and saw that corny pic of him on the packaging and actually felt kinda sorry for the guy. I keep having to remind myself that this is a grown man, but I'm having trouble shaking this sympathetic feeling. I wish y'all hadn't turned me on to his instagram because that is some weird shit going on over there... the praise these people are heaping on this man is creepy and the fact that he encourages it by giving everyone who makes these outlandish comments a shout out with the little praise hands really turns the creepiness up to the next level. But the childish antics, the Lamborghini, his clear need for approval and inability to handle criticism makes me wonder about his spiritual health. I've worked with a few people that have presented almost the exact same way, very similar attitudes and behaviors, and the childishness was more of a way to cope with the feeling that deep down inside, they are broken. Their actions are a symptom of a problem that they know exists but want to hide from the rest of the world. Can't excuse the behavior, I definitely don't care for the guy nor do I wish to continue to support his business, but seeing that damn pic on the taper adapter packaging threw me for a loop so I had to vent all of that ^^ for my own sake.
Anyways.... have the rifle all set up and ready to go for tomorrow and the damn thing looks so sweet. Also having the Bartlein/Tooley name on it has given me that warm fuzzy feeling I had when I bought the rifle, before making the mistake of getting on the internetz.
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Pretty sure Kevin has fuck you money and does not care what people say on here about him or his product . I enjoy how people get worked up over one guy most have never met .
"Well, I don't know any lepers, either, but I'm not gonna run out and join one of their fucking clubs."
You know who he and the legion of ball swingers remind me of? The guy who owns S.O.E. Gear. They're like the same guy and they attract the same crowd of suck up ball swingers.
Yep, they attract the same kool-aid drinking crowd. Put that ass clown rifle manufactuer just outside of Austin, TX in that same group. Great products but a total doooosh bag to deal with.
So if I have more money than someone that gives me the right to be shitty to all of those people? Maybe we should have a salary tab on under our name over there to the left so we can figure out who's opinion matters and who's doesn't (sarcasm). You would shit yourself if you knew how much money some very plain, down-to-earth, everyday type people had. And that's here in SC. Not saying that I can or ever will come close to being able to step in the ring with some of these boys, I'm just saying. Thats probably the worst excuse for his behavior I have heard so far.
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what nightforce did you end up going with? I don't like USO B-10 and am contemplating what to swap it out for.So if I have more money than someone that gives me the right to be shitty to all of those people? Maybe we should have a salary tab on under our name over there to the left so we can figure out who's opinion matters and who's doesn't (sarcasm). You would shit yourself if you knew how much money some very plain, down-to-earth, everyday type people had. And that's here in SC. Not saying that I can or ever will come close to being able to step in the ring with some of these boys, I'm just saying. Thats probably the worst excuse for his behavior I have heard so far.
When I heard they had dropped the Bartlein/Tooley barrels for Green Mountain my first thought WASNT “It’ll be just as good”
Its the NSX 3.5-15x50 with the MIL-R reticle. I was wanting to go with the ATACR, but I got a really good deal on this one right before christmas and couldn't justify the extra $1500 I would have had to pay. It has worked really well for me in the short time I have had it, and I think it is a good size for the fix. Did you go with the Horus or some other reticle on your USO?
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Kinda OT, but I very likely would have bought their Honey Badger. I didn't even hear about their company and CS issues from the 'Hide, I don't know why he would call people on this site fags. That's truly a bit low I think. Seems folks here are mixed on Q but are being pretty fair about things. I get that dealing with customers can be the most frustrating thing in the entire world, but I don't get cussed out at the Verizon store because I can't figure out how to switch my phone from Portuguese back to English. They need to hire someone with CS skills that knows enough to give more than a canned response, I know they are small but at this point, it's really the only way my desire to do business with them could ever improve.
The crying gets old . If you like him / them cool if you hate him /themcool . Gets silly just reading bitching comments . Seems like lots of guys like to get butt hurt over people they don’t know.
Well shit, you need to get over to instagram ASAP... there's a mob of ravenous dudes competing to see who can give Kevin the best digital BJ. You have to give me credit for trying to offset my crying with a sweet pic... I put a filter on that bitch and everything. On a serious note, what did you do to your barrel to get it to rust?... need to figure out how aggressive I need to be with the oil.
This. Can we talk about the fucking rifle?
Alright.. I agree. start it up. No one seemed interested in answering the guys question about if anyone else was getting rust on the barrel. Anyone have any success out of the .308 with something other than FGMM lately? I came here to ask questions and got bombarded by bullshit theoreticals and speculation so post some info and enlighten us.
Seriously tho, some here consider FGMM the gold standard for accuracy and that looks like what the rifle but a lot of people don't think it performs well out past at longer distances. So has anyone shot it past 750y or so? I really would like to find an alternative round to shoot through this thing.
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So I got my rifle back. Q fixed a chip that was on the bolt cover. I haven’t shot it yet but I was going to this weekend and did something stupid. I tried to dye the horrible blue color black with some RIT dye until I decide what color I want to cerakote the whole rifle. I tried to take the rubber butt pad off and ended up tearing the butt pad to the point where it could not be fixed and had to be replaced. I thought about the limbsaver mod but I really don’t like it to be honest so I decided to email Q at 10PM to try and get a replacement that I was sure would be outrageously priced. Within 10 minutes I had a response. I asked for replacement polymer in black and Q said they would have it in the mail today and even added springs with it all for no charge! I was blown away. He said because of the inconvenience of sending my rifle back in he would send it no problem. To be honest it was never an inconvenience. They paid for shipping to/from NH to test my rifle to make sure it was within spec, fixed the chip in the bolt cover, and then sent me more than what I asked for at no charge. For every negative thing that has been posted about Q or Keven specifically, their CS for me was more than helpful and went out of their way to ensure I am content with the rifle. I’m impressed because after dealing with other company’s CS (or lack there of) whoever is on the other side of my emails is nailing it. I just wanted others to know that Q seems like a customer based company and not so evil as others have posted. I got a tracking number for my parts and should be here Monday. Q said they will not send out replacement polymer to everyone who requests it but if you have to send the rifle in for any type of work and do not like the current color combo it may be worth the extra email to say hey, while its there would you mind? The RIT dye does not work worth a shit. It turned the blue a darker blue, but still very blue.
Hey @Ernsky you could take it apart to paint them or just tape off the rest of the rifle and hit it with Krylon camo in Black or any other color you want. The rifle came apart and went back together with surprising ease. It literally took me 5 minutes or less to reassemble. Just make sure you have the right size T-25 torx and take your time. It’s really simple.
As for the customer service I appreciate you sharing your experience. It’s really important to remember there’s more than one person working there. I can’t deny the awesomeness of the engineering of this rifle. The tolerances are TIGHT and I’ve been very pleased with the workmanship overall.
As for the customer service I appreciate you sharing your experience. It’s really important to remember there’s more than one person working there. I can’t deny the awesomeness of the engineering of this rifle. The tolerances are TIGHT and I’ve been very pleased with the workmanship overall.
Man I never had a problem w the recoil. Never bothered me. I’m used to a 300wm destroying my shoulder so the 308 is a little more than a tickle.
I’m going to take it out “as is” tomorrow. The less I have to change, the happier I am. I have a Lantac brake laying around and will eventually try for comparison sake but I don’t see the myself wanting to deal with the recoil pad. My main concern is if that polymer piece can take a hard hit without cracking? Anyone have any insight on that? I would honestly like to see if I can find someone who can machine one out of aluminum. It looks like the bolts are just threaded into the plastic on the factory one but I could be wrong
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I’m going to recommend the HU-DU brake from Southern Precision Tooling. Small company in East Tennessee but I can personally tell you how much their brake reduces recoil. I had my 5 year old shooting my 300wm after install. Yes its that good. Look them up on youtube. I have a spare one laying around and I’m trying to decide if I want to install or keep the cherry bomb. As for the polymer strength I dont think you have anything to worry about. I’m sure the engineers at Q thought about that and didn’t source cheap components.
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If you're concerned about strength, the way I did it replaces a thin piece of rubber with hard plastic supported along most of it's length by the stock mechanism. If there is enough interest I will take mine back apart and make a step by step with better pictures. I should have done that in the first place. I do appreciate retaining the adjustment function going from the bench to the prone to a tree stand. For me recoil mitigation was only a concern after shooting a hundred rounds in that F class match with no can, no brake, and all shot from the prone. The biggest gain in my opinion comes from the ease of building your shooting position with something that has been sized and shaped for over 100 years to fit the pocket of your shoulder vs. the narrow band of flat plastic. YMMV, the gun went from a consistent 3/4 to 1/4 MOA, which could be indicative of poor fundamentals on my part.
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Good to know that you can score black accents if you’re lucky.
I had an issue and they squared me away real quick and threw in a barrel nut tool to say sorry which was good.
Maybe I’ll have to just break mine and be like ohh no I need to buy a new one, by the way can I have it in black instead.
Very nice... may have been nice to do a comparison but I know you were on a time crunch and needed to get your barrel off. Its at least good to know that the limbsaver option exists. My main concern is dropping the thing (either the factory Q or limbsaver) right on the corner of the stock and have it bust or strip the plastic threads. You didn't happen to see metal inserts when you were taking yours apart?
Also, anyone know people that do custom machining that can basically make a 7075 (or 6061) copy of the factory polymer part? There are so few of these rifle out there that no one is going to get involved in making aftermarket stuff, if I had to guess.
Plastic threads? Where?
No plastic threads anywhere on the stock gun or on the limbsaver mod. Maybe I should have taken pictures when I did it. So the threaded gold colored aluminum bars that connect the buttpad to the stock are threaded in the back. They have a 10-32 screw in the back of them. That’s how Q connects them to the buttpad. If you move your stock all the way up or down I believe I may be visible.
So for my version of the mod I drilled a hole the limbsaver that is the exact width of the 10-32 screw body. Not the head. So then I used a screw from the hardware store wirh a wider head than the stock one had. Less likely to bus through the very hard polymer back of the limbsaver. So I’ve used essentially the same attachment method that Q used. I will say that the plastic Q used seems 10 times more likely to crack/break etc
Just be advised to anyone who takes the stock apart. They used some heavy duty thread locker on the 10-32 screws that attach the butt pad o the bars with the wheels on them. Go slow and take your time so you don’t strip it. It’ll come out but was some work to turn it because of the locker they used.
@lvmike did a metal version
Yo @midSCarolina when you gonna shoot that thing already?
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-FGMM 168gr SMK
-FGMM 175gr SMK
-Hornady Custom Lite 125gr pussy ammo (saw that it liked SSTs for someone else but those were actually some pretty hot handloads it looks like... oh well)
-Hornady Match 168gr ELD
-Hornady Precision Hunter 178gr ELD-X
-Federal Premium 150gr Nosler
-Nosler Trophy Grade 175gr Accubond
I'm just going out to a 100y public range today but soon I'll get out to the farm where i can shoot out to 1k. Emailed Phil at Innovative Arms about getting started on the paperwork for the suppressor so that will be something to look forward to in 9-12 months (is that about how long form4s are taking these days?).
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I could make it happen but would need about 50 people to commit and pay up front once it’s drawn up and we have an idea of machine time and cost. It’s not going to be a $20 part either. It’d probably end up in the $50-$100 by time they’re anodized just depending on how long it takes to machine.
I thought it was a pretty good variety. Things didn't really go well. My main takeaways were:
1) The rifle's recoil isn't that bad... I put exactly 123 rounds through it and I'm sure I will be a little sore tomorrow but it didn't bother me while I was out there.
2) The rifle does a little better if you really grip it tight as you would your semi-autos... I got marginally better groups doing it that way than when i held it loosely like I would a normal precision bolt action. This also helped manage the recoil a little.
3) The bolt lift is rough... I understand why you see people putting their thumb on the top to manipulate the bolt. After almost knocking the rifle over a few times I resorted to that same method and it worked pretty well.
4) Feeding is hit or miss with the 20 round magazine (can't remember if any of the issues occurred with a 10rnd or not but I know for sure they did with the 20. The round would bind up on the bottom of the chamber... this happened 4 or 5 times before I figured out that the loose fit of the mag in the magwell was causing the round to go in at a bad angle. I ended up just putting a little forward pressure on the back of the mag when cycling it so it didn't bind up which worked pretty well.
DISREGARD VVV.... WASTED $200 WORTH OF AMMO SHOOTING WITH IMPOPERLY TORQUED RINGS (01/19). CORRECTED THE ISSUE AND IT SHOT WELL
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I thought I heard someone say that Q ditched the “upgraded” barrels because they weren’t keeping tolerances for the Fix close enough.
I wonder if the dog knot towards the end of the barrel on the .308 is playing hell with the harmonics or leaving a tight spot in the bore due to different rates of thermal growth. My 17” 6.5 Creedmoor is a laser and it’s pretty damn light, I don’t feel like I’m more focused on fundamentals anymore than when I shoot my other rifles.
I’ve wondered the same thing. That profile makes me wonder. But I will say that Q has been able to shoot them. Look at @Ernsky s rifle. I’m sure he’s a good shooter. He sent it back and they grouped it a half minute. I think experience and familiarity is why the Q shooters can do that. @midSCarolina it isn’t that I think you can’t shoot. It’s this rifle in 308. None of the 6.5 guys have complained. You should have had them test fire it before they sent it back to you. People don’t realize how hard shooing half minute is. It’s not something everyone is born with. It takes work. You should post the targets. We can tell a lot by looking. It a rifle has 4 tight and one off then it’s probably not the gun.
There’s something to this. If it’s the profile, or the gun is just harder to GROUP (notice I didn’t say shoot) I don’t know. But there’s something there
No plastic threads, I used square nuts on the stainless bolts through the stock mechanism.
@Movistar you really have a hardon for The Fix but I have to agree and the only reason why is I have proof targets and measurements of the accuracy Q got with my rifle after sending it in. I still haven’t had the chance to shoot mine but I have some ideas about what to change to improve. @midSCarolina mine was doing literally the exact same thing that you described and I tried almost the same lineup of ammo you listed. I read an article and if I can find it again I will post it. It talked about how to shoot a lightweight rifle and how different it was from heavier hunting rifles and bench guns. My buddy has a Kimber Adirondack in 308 that does almost the same thing that The Fix is doing and after reading the article he has brought his groups in to sub-moa and now 1/2” at 100 after practice and finding the right load data. These rifles just shoot different and I’m determined to figure out how to get mine on.
Why don't you drive over and together we'll take a look at everything. Then put a few rounds down range. Leaving for Shot Monday morning.
On the feeding issue I've had similar problems. 10rd kac are great but with 20rd kac and Larue the front of the mag sags a bit so the nose hits low and they jam. I stuck bit of Velcro on the front of the trigger guard and it's just enough shim to kick the front of the mag up for the 20s and doesn't affect the 10s.
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