The 20in barrel on my T1x sticks out about 5.25 inches from the end of the Oryx chassis.
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Tikka T1X
- Thread starter jbell
- Start date
anyone know if there are any arca rails that mount to the factory stock preferably with (but w/o is okay too) a beavertail forend that dont require any additional holes to be drilled?
I know mountain tactical has the 9" one that should work okay, im wondering if any of the longer 10 or 12" Area 419 ones will install without any more holes needing to be drilled.
I know mountain tactical has the 9" one that should work okay, im wondering if any of the longer 10 or 12" Area 419 ones will install without any more holes needing to be drilled.
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The Area 419 weighted rail will mount without any additional holes being drilled. It is 14.25 inches long so it will stick out past the end of the forend a few inches. It attaches easiest directly onto the factory stock without the beavertail forend, although you will have to find an extra rear action screw (the longer one) as the front action screw will now be too short). A couple small washers or a spacer then is needed to get the action screw to the proper depth. Then the front of the rail will attach using the sling stud mounting hole and one of the small bolts that comes with the rail.
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I got one here:
Bore Guides
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I think that screw is only used when you add the factory Beavertail Forearm to the stock.
Tikka T1X Beavertail Forearm
okay thanks for all the info. so you just take a regular length rear action/receiver bolt and used some washers? any specific washers or spacer height i should go for?
One needs to space it out far enough that it doesn't bottom out in the action but not so far that the head of the bolt sticks past the surface of the ARCA rail, then it will interfere with sliding the barricade stop on and off. Sorry, I don't take measurements for small projects like this, I just modify as I go and when it fits, it fits. I just pulled it apart and got the measurements. I just used a small piece of some stainless tubing I had kicking around, .382 OD and .295 ID. .179 thickness.
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T1x purchased in August 2021. Threw a spare USO 5-25x58 on it to get going. Came across a gently used Kahles 318i here on the Hide. Seemed more fitting for an inside 200 critter getter. Mounted this afternoon with a rough 100 yard zero that I’ll fine tune when the wind backs off (was 30+ today).
It will drop in - ETA - There won't be a mag catch for the AICS Magazine, however so not advised.
@cannoncrossfire set me straight, so I edited this post
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I modified my T3 bravo to take a T1x and can still use it on a T3 or T1x if I want to. The T1x bravo has no magazine lever, so how would that work when you put a T3 in it?
I didn't think about lack of mag catch that'd certainly be a problem....
Do you have any pictures of the mods you did to get it to work with both T3 and T1?
Some post suggest it's just a little bit of relief required, others show much much more work involved.
5th time posting the mods in this T1x thread lol.
I finally got around to modifying my T3 KRG Bravo to suit the T1x.
Pictures should explain it, but it involved a short head cap screw for the magazine well, drilling/counterboring 2x holes in the top of the Chassis to suit M3 screws (will probably change them to hex drive pan head - zinc philips were all I had on hand).
Drill and Tap M3 into the trigger guard due to the existing screw no longer being used.
Remove/Drill/Mill/File material to allow for Plastic Tab on Magazine and Cap screw.
I've checked it all assembled and can still use the T1x magazine with the AICS mag lever in place. The bottom rear of the magazine presses against it, but it means I can swap a T3/T3x and T1x in the one stock. I did make the Thru-holes a little bigger so the 2x M3 screws can slide a little back and forth to get the right tension when using AICS magazines still (original screw did the same).
Next up will be a Sterk handle and shroud
View attachment 7083527View attachment 7083529View attachment 7083530View attachment 7083531
I thought you probably would've I hadn't seen it in my travels around the Bravo and T1 threads.
Guess I didn't look hard enough.
CTR Stock / Bottom Metal Modified for T1X Magwell Attaching Bolt
CTR Stock / Bottom Metal Modified for T1X Magwell Attaching Bolt
CTR Stock / Bottom Metal Modified for T1X Magwell Attaching Bolt
CTR Bottom Metal Modified for KRG Midas Trigger
CTR Bottom Metal Modified for KRG Midas Trigger
Bought a couple of the Tikka 5 round flush mags. Both work great. Very nice transformation, carries much better and a sling can be used. I can now justify putting the T1X in a nice walnut or laminate stock.
Interesting, not sure if it's worth spending almost $45 CAD each to get 2 extra rounds...
Does it look cool though?
It helps if you get a dud or a misfeed on the clock.Interesting, not sure if it's worth spending almost $45 CAD each to get 2 extra rounds...
Does it look cool though?
I have one and it’s ok for what it is. Twice during matches I’ve had it come apart and have to go to a backup mag I keep in my pocket. It functions fine and I still use it on stages that would require a mag change but you need to be careful to not put any side pressure on it as the friction fit is just meh.
I was planning on upgrading all of my mags if they worked great but I have no plans to do that now.
Mine measures .727". Threaded barrel - measured at the end of the barrel (right before the threads start).
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