Typically, I will shoot 5 X 10 shot groups and take the average of those before I feel I can judge the ammo.
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Tikka T1X
- Thread starter jbell
- Start date
The 5 shot at 100m was just to get some zero'ing data and it was getting too wet I just wanted to get some data before my targets got too soggy or ripped off!
I certainly don't disagree. There's no doubt more data is always going to be a more accurate representation. Not sure if I remember right but I think I read somewhere that in one 500 rounds experiement, average group size of randomly picked individual 5 shot groups were about 50-60% confidence level versus the overall 500 rd group size and 10 shot groups were somewhere around 60-70%. 50 rd groups were in the 70-80% region but the problem with that experiment versus normal guys is that they tested indoor on a vice.
For me, shooting outdoors, the wind and shooter position probably changed more during the 50 rd group to cause the shift in POI versus the actual inconsistency of the ammo/rifle, so five 10shots is probably the best reasonable way I agree.
Only issue on 10 shots for me is that at 50m, I am likely going to get a big hole and can't track all individual shots, so I actually like 5 shot groups and then overlay them on each other using the POA and in the same order as I shoot them. (In reality I usually just eyeball that...)
On a practical side, because my local gun shop only do RWS and Eley, for me the exercise was more about picking between those and also have a look at Lapua/SK to see if it's worth me driving out to get those. Given RWS seems to give me realibility issues in feeding and Eley was was giving pretty good results, it was good enough for me to decide to go with that.
I still have a few boxes of SK match and the Lapuas left. Now that I've narrowed it down to SK Match, Lapua CX, Midas+ and Tenex, I can probably do some 10 shot groups the next time I am at the range but then one can also argue about the lot to lot differences and get into a whole other can of worms... (I do live within an hour drive of the Eley test range, so...)
Also need to do some test with the new chassis when it arrives tomorrow and experiment with action bolt torque as well. All good fun as part of the journey.
I can certainly agree with that. I will shoot the 10 shot groups and overlay them similar to what you do.
For me, shooting 50 shot groups outdoors is kind of a waste. I just cannot shoot a 50 shot string and have any confidence that it is repeatable or even consistent due to the changing environmentals and my own shooting ability. Maybe some shooters can, but I can't.
My T1X also prefers Eley Tenex, but SK Long Range will make a pretty good showing as well. Especially at longer ranges. It is worth a shot to try some if it is available.
Thanks for bringing that up mate ! I've always thought that it wasn't worth it on a rigid chassis but you triggered my curiosity and after reading a few discussions and articles on the subject this afternoon, it seems I'm clearly wrong.
SK long range was the only SK I couldn't find, so will have to wait until I come across it.
Been reading up on this lately and there is a method where you use the mean radius times 2.1 to get your radius for 95% confidence interval and then times 2 to get to a probable group size. Statistically seemed like a better way and easy enough to do if I use range buddy already. So will be giving that a go.
I think in theory, especially with the T1X where the stock is so flexible, switching to a more solid chassis should help with consistency. I think it was one of AI's selling point initially and seems to be a proven concept.
Not sure how much is the gain though. The MDT claims on their product pages seems a bit optimistic to me...
Hi guys. I’ve read through roughly first 50 pages of this thread so far, but have a question.
Picked up a T1X Left Hand 16” 17HMR.
I read about a couple accounts of broken firing pins…. I don’t plan to dry fire practice with this rifle, but what do you do when you put the bolt back in the rifle after assembly or cleaning? Leave it cocked with safety on? Squeeze the trigger and say F-it?
Appreciate the tips.
I’m putting this into a Grayboe Terrain stock (was originally on a T3x), with a Mountain Tactical 20MOA rail, Athlon Argos BTR Gen2 6-24x50 in Warne low rings and utilizing a Dead Air Mask.
Picked up a T1X Left Hand 16” 17HMR.
I read about a couple accounts of broken firing pins…. I don’t plan to dry fire practice with this rifle, but what do you do when you put the bolt back in the rifle after assembly or cleaning? Leave it cocked with safety on? Squeeze the trigger and say F-it?
Appreciate the tips.
I’m putting this into a Grayboe Terrain stock (was originally on a T3x), with a Mountain Tactical 20MOA rail, Athlon Argos BTR Gen2 6-24x50 in Warne low rings and utilizing a Dead Air Mask.
I wouldn't close and dry fire personally. I just leave it cocked and store with bolt out.
If you are worried about leaving it cocked, you can actually twist the bolt to uncock. Just remember to twist it back the other way before you put it in next time. On some other rifles, they make these storage tubes you can insert the bolt and then uncock using the bolt handle. I think I have seen a 3D print model for the t1x bolt on Google before.
If you are worried about leaving it cocked, you can actually twist the bolt to uncock. Just remember to twist it back the other way before you put it in next time. On some other rifles, they make these storage tubes you can insert the bolt and then uncock using the bolt handle. I think I have seen a 3D print model for the t1x bolt on Google before.
I used to dry fire in that situation. After a broken firing pin I do not anymore. Mine broke during a live fire string. About 8K rounds through the rifle. I bought to last T1X firing pin available in Canada at the time.
Ensure the chamber is empty.
Press and HOLD the trigger to the rear, then close the bolt and lower the handle.
This will un-cock the bolt/pin without firing it
Here’s my Lefty T1X 16” 17HMR.
Grayboe Terrain stock
CTR bottom metal
MT 20 MOA rail
Warne low rings
Athlon Argos BTR Gen2 6-24x50
Dead Air Mask
Harris bipod
I can’t wait to get this baby dialed in. I have 1,200 rounds of CCI A17 ready to go.
Grayboe Terrain stock
CTR bottom metal
MT 20 MOA rail
Warne low rings
Athlon Argos BTR Gen2 6-24x50
Dead Air Mask
Harris bipod
I can’t wait to get this baby dialed in. I have 1,200 rounds of CCI A17 ready to go.
Attachments
Has anyone tried removing the adjustable cheek riser with its mechanism from an adjustable CTR (or Super Varmint) and put in in a T1x stock?
I installed the Kalix Teknik CR1 adjustable cheek riser. The install was straight forward and it works great.
The Titan universal cheek rest fits great. I'll warn you though, there isn't much meat in the stock, so I'd go one drill bit size smaller if I had it to do over.
BUILT FOR COMPETITION
victorcompanyusa.com
I got some stainless machine screws and a packet of rivet nuts:The Titan universal cheek rest fits great. I'll warn you though, there isn't much meat in the stock, so I'd go one drill bit size smaller if I had it to do over.
BUILT FOR COMPETITION
Drilled under sized holes then placed the nut on a soldering iron tip for about 5 minutes, then pressed it in to the hole, melting it in place.
As long as you don't get carried away with your screwdriver they hold fine and allow easy cheek piece removal for cleaning without chewing the stock up with the dry wall screws each time.
That's a handy trick I'll have to remember if I ever go back to the factory stock. Nice!I got some stainless machine screws and a packet of rivet nuts:
Drilled under sized holes then placed the nut on a soldering iron tip for about 5 minutes, then pressed it in to the hole, melting it in place.
As long as you don't get carried away with your screwdriver they hold fine and allow easy cheek piece removal for cleaning without chewing the stock up with the dry wall screws each time.
Got one of these delivered yesterday from Canukistan:
Seems very well made and only mag carrier I've come across for the T1x. They also make them for the CZ 457 and Savage Mk II.
Shall see how it does at two matches next weekend.
Zidar - Rimfire
LEAD TIMES: All Kydex products are hand made to order, we do not keep inventory. Your products can take a few weeks to manufacture. Please refer to the main page of our website for our current lead times. The Zidar Double Mag Carrier for rimfire mags is made to be fully ambidextrous and accept...
grayfoxstrategic.ca
Seems very well made and only mag carrier I've come across for the T1x. They also make them for the CZ 457 and Savage Mk II.
Shall see how it does at two matches next weekend.
They work great, even with the MKM mag extensions. I have had one for about a month.Got one of these delivered yesterday from Canukistan:
Zidar - Rimfire
LEAD TIMES: All Kydex products are hand made to order, we do not keep inventory. Your products can take a few weeks to manufacture. Please refer to the main page of our website for our current lead times. The Zidar Double Mag Carrier for rimfire mags is made to be fully ambidextrous and accept...grayfoxstrategic.ca
Seems very well made and only mag carrier I've come across for the T1x. They also make them for the CZ 457 and Savage Mk II.
Shall see how it does at two matches next weekend.
I have been reading the discussions about modifying a T3x krg bravo to fit the t1x. After making the mods, can you still use the bravo on the T3x? Are there any video instructional on doing the modification?
The way i modified mine i can still use it for the t3 or t1x.
No videos because now you can get it for the t1x anyway. The discussions and photos give a few ways to do it.
Tikka T1X
Finally got an optic mounted up, hopefully the weather will cooperate so I can get it sighted in this weekend. Please report your extraction experiences.
www.snipershide.com
Literally the 4th time ive posted the solution in this thread lol. Just click the link above that ive pasted and it'll take you to the exact post.
On my KRG BRAVO FOR THE T1x I get a tapered opening of...
muzzle end = .86"
middle = .9"
rear = .96
Hope this helps.
Bob S.
Tikka T1X .22 LR 16" Barrel 10-Rounds Threaded Barrel
The Tikka T1x is built to handle a variety of tasks with ease. It comes chambered in .22LR with a 16 inch barrel. Features include a threaded barrel, a 2 position safety, a synthetic stock, and a 10 round magazine. Just add an optic to get started. Get one today at the best price online from...
grabagun.com
Holy Inflation, Fatman. 2019 $429Tikka T1X .22 LR 16" Barrel 10-Rounds Threaded Barrel
The Tikka T1x is built to handle a variety of tasks with ease. It comes chambered in .22LR with a 16 inch barrel. Features include a threaded barrel, a 2 position safety, a synthetic stock, and a 10 round magazine. Just add an optic to get started. Get one today at the best price online from...
At least it’s available? I bought a used one last year for $600 because I needed one. Would gladly pay this for a new one.
No disrespect my friend. I'm just amazed they've gone up so much. I love the T1X. 10,000 rounds or more I guess. I've lost track. I shoot a box or two in the backyard more days than not. And the 16" is the better suppressor host. I've owned both 16" and 20".
Hell everythings gone up drastically. You bought bacon lately? And matter of opinion on the best host, I love my 20".
EDIT: Also, I got tired of waiting last year and paid slightly more than that on GunJoker. I wanted the 20" to be a mini-me to my CTR, and there are various schools of thought on extra barrel length possibly adding a bit more bullet stabilization for longer range shots. I have no regrets, I love this thing and shoot it more than anything I own. I don't think I've touched my built 10/22 since buying it.
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If i wanted to mount a swfa 3-15 on my tikka for shooting 200 and closer do i need elevation factored into my rail?I dont plan to shoot that far anytime soon but just looking into the future in case.Im looking at dip and area 419 rails. Thanks
I need some help figuring out what rail to get,im new to all this math and going to run a swfa 3-15 and need a rail,want to make sure i get what i need,theres 0,15,20,25&30.I would like a 50 yard zero.Do i need moa built in rail?Scope has 40 moa total elevation.
Dip
Area 419
MT
Dip
Area 419
MT
Are you sure your scope has only 40 moa and not 40 mil of elevation.
The reason I ask is the only 3-15 swfa scope i can find on their website states that it has 40 mil of elevation which is about 137 moa .
If that is the case a rail with 0 moa will do.
I would just buy a 20 moa rail incase you ever decided to shoot further or change scopes at a later date.
I bought the EGW 20 moa rail for my T1x .
Area 419 30MOA rail and be done. You can zero at 100yds and have enough elevation to shoot as far as you little heart desires.
T
T
Update, takedown 22 as noted when I asked works fine, there is enough clearance with the longer thread that it does not contact the first baffle, though it’s got to be damn close!
Stupid quiet, and accuracy is fine.
Stupid quiet, and accuracy is fine.
Any ideas on how to get better balance? I have a T1x in a KRG bravo and it's super rear heavy, the balance point right at the mag.
Forend T-Slot Weight – Kinetic Research Group
kineticresearchgroup.com
M-LOK EXTERIOR FOREND WEIGHTS (PAIR)
mdttac.com
I have the stock T1X with a 16”barrel I’d like to put it in the Oryx Sportsman Chassis, after contacting manufacturers i figure that I’ll have about 11/2” of barrel sticking out past the chassis, was wondering if anyone has the same setup if they would post a picture of it. I took a muzzle break off my grandson’s BuckMark just trying to make it longer, unfortunately my groups opened up
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