Tikka T1X

Is there a comparison between Oryx and the Bravo? I will probably get one and would like to know if there is a reason to buy the Oryx over the Bravo. The difference in cost is very small.
 
I agree the KRG shipping is annoyingly steep. i ordered a sako green bravo this afternoon and wasn't happy to see that extra charge in a time when most purchases over $100 get you free shipping.
 
Picked up my T1X from my FFL yesterday. 25 MOA DIP rail also arrived yesterday. MDT LSS XL for a T3 should be here today. Using a Luth-AR stock that I already have in the spare parts bin. Going to pull the Athlon ARES BTR 2.5-15 MIL from another rifle. Looking forward to seeing what this rifle can do. I have high expectations after reading through this thread. I am currently shooting a Savage B22 in a Boyd’s Pro Varmint. I expect this to be a nice step up.
 
I have a Neal Waltz sizing die too. From my testing it didn't help accuracy on CCI SV. Neal recommends using the die on Wolf ammo. A few of the CCIs I tested:

View attachment 7044826

No time for it right now, as I have too many other rimfire projects, but I want to test the efficiency of hollow-points made from a Aguila 22 Interceptor which are 40 grain and rated at 1,470 FPS. It deformed the copper wash, but that shoun't have any negative effect. Left to right - CCI SV (unmodified), Aguila Interceptor (unmodified), Aguila Interceptor resized with an overly large hollow point:

View attachment 7044827
what did you use to make the pocket?
 
Well my T1x is on it’s way from Europtic. I have skimmed through 20 pages of posts and don’t seem to see an answer to the questions I have. I want to put it into a KRG chassis. The new Bravo is the obvious choice. The thing is I would prefer to use the X-ray. I have a mill so if I have to do some small modifications that isn’t a problem. My question is will this chassis work with the small modifications I have seen made to the Bravo? My other question is about the bolt knob. I would like to put something a little larger on it. What are the current options for bolt handle modifications. So far all I’m really seeing is the add on ball posted in this thread. Can a t3 bolt handle be used or will I need to wait for something to be made for the T1x if I want something other than the add on ball?
 
I must say I love that KRG is getting them out but their website is lack luster. like I want to see it in the factory chassis and not modified to fit or work. I want to see the mag in the mag well. Is it just a Bravo with slight mods (fit kit) to fit the T1X or is it like the Magpul x22 to the hunter 700.

I want to click buy so bad but I just want more info!
 
Ordered Boyd’s at one stock for my wife’s t1x in 22lr. Got it on Saturday. Here is the story.
1 the mistake! I narrowed my friend’s t3 lite in 308 to make sure the mounting holes and channel dimensions are the same. All match and ordered the stock for t3 lite in short action. Well, there are 2 side blocks in the stock for the 223 model. The mag block will not fit. Lesson learned. Order the t3 regular model!!!
2 took me 2 hours to file and shave the 2 blocks enough to fit the action in. Then I try to screw the bottom metal/plastic in. Screwed in the rear screw. Guess what, the front will not catch. Now I am in near panic mode. Took off the trigger guard and remove the barrel and action. Turned out the recoil lug fit so well, it has to fit in from front side so the lug will fit into the action. Screw down the front screw then the back. It fit!
3 then I tried to put the mag into the rifle before I properly torqued it down. Crap, the mag will not lock. Then I torquet it to 30 in lb. finally, it works. All functional and checked.

4 the good- looks good. Feels heavy and solid. Now barrel is all free floating. I picked the t3 lite barrel because I guessed the channel will fit the t1x barrel better with less space. I am glad I guessed right.
5 I am happy to have all the cheek and length of pull adjustments. The original t1x lop is a little to long for my wife. Now it can be adjust down for her.

6 the ugly - no where I can mount pic rail under the front section. I would like to have under rail for my atlas bipod. Now I have to settle with my old Harris bipod.
7 the plastic grip is does not fit too well. I use hare dryer to heat up the grips and bend it to fit better.

Conclusion-I like the look. Is it worth the $226 I paid for the whole thing? Yes. IMHO, it is a $200 stock for a $450 rifle. Don’t ask too much with the price you pay. Order the regular t3 version!

I will post some pictures and targets once I test it again to see if the group gets better or stay the same in about 2 weeks when I have time.
 
Ordered Boyd’s at one stock for my wife’s t1x in 22lr. Got it on Saturday. Here is the story.
1 the mistake! I narrowed my friend’s t3 lite in 308 to make sure the mounting holes and channel dimensions are the same. All match and ordered the stock for t3 lite in short action. Well, there are 2 side blocks in the stock for the 223 model. The mag block will not fit. Lesson learned. Order the t3 regular model!!!
2 took me 2 hours to file and shave the 2 blocks enough to fit the action in. Then I try to screw the bottom metal/plastic in. Screwed in the rear screw. Guess what, the front will not catch. Now I am in near panic mode. Took off the trigger guard and remove the barrel and action. Turned out the recoil lug fit so well, it has to fit in from front side so the lug will fit into the action. Screw down the front screw then the back. It fit!
3 then I tried to put the mag into the rifle before I properly torqued it down. Crap, the mag will not lock. Then I torquet it to 30 in lb. finally, it works. All functional and checked.

4 the good- looks good. Feels heavy and solid. Now barrel is all free floating. I picked the t3 lite barrel because I guessed the channel will fit the t1x barrel better with less space. I am glad I guessed right.
5 I am happy to have all the cheek and length of pull adjustments. The original t1x lop is a little to long for my wife. Now it can be adjust down for her.

6 the ugly - no where I can mount pic rail under the front section. I would like to have under rail for my atlas bipod. Now I have to settle with my old Harris bipod.
7 the plastic grip is does not fit too well. I use hare dryer to heat up the grips and bend it to fit better.

Conclusion-I like the look. Is it worth the $226 I paid for the whole thing? Yes. IMHO, it is a $200 stock for a $450 rifle. Don’t ask too much with the price you pay. Order the regular t3 version!

I will post some pictures and targets once I test it again to see if the group gets better or stay the same in about 2 weeks when I have time.


I have a few adapters that I picked up off a popular auction site that adapt a sling lug to a pic rail. You can also just use wood screws or drill and tap to attach a standard pic rail to the stock. I have used both methods and have never had a problem.
 
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I have a few adapters that I picked up off a popular auction site that adapt a sling lug to a pic rail. You can also just use wood screws or drill and tap to attach a standard pic rail to the stock. I have used both methods and have never had a problem.
Yes and I agree. Just thought and hope pic rail option would be nice...
 
Has anyone upgraded their trigger spring. I’ve seen yodave makes one for the T1X but also seen Elay has one for the t3. Is the trigger spring the same for the T3 as it is for the T1X? I emailed Elay and they weren’t sure if it would work.
 
Has anyone upgraded their trigger spring. I’ve seen yodave makes one for the T1X but also seen Elay has one for the t3. Is the trigger spring the same for the T3 as it is for the T1X? I emailed Elay and they weren’t sure if it would work.

I have one of the Elay springs in the mail to me. I’ll let you know how it works out once it arrives.
 
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Has anyone tried putting one in a tac a1 chassis? Friend might be selling the chassis and if he does I might pick it up.
Look on page 10 or 11. Or search this thread for @skinnj1 , he is who posted a photo and what went into making it fit. It’s not a drop in assembly, I believe he had to machine the top rail to make it sit flush and modify the stock some too.
 
I have a MT in one rifle, a Yo Dave in one, and a home made spring from an AR parts kit in a 3rd. The home made spring feels the best, but I have no idea what it was for or where it came from!:cautious:
 
I have had mixed luck with the CCI SV. I bought several lots in a row that were absolutely amazing. It shot sub MOA at 100 yards in every rifle I own. I recently bought several mor lots for testing and none of them came close. I still use the CCI for pratice but when accuracy really counts I use Elay or Lapua. I have also has really good luck with the Wolf match ammo which is now made by Eley. It is about the cheapest consistent ammo I have found but is still 3 times the price of CCI SV. One thing I have found with the premuim ammo though as my accuracy and zero stay the same from lot to lot. With the CCI my POI shifts quite a bit from lot to lot. I assume that is to velocity variation between lots but I’m no expert on rimfire ammo and will be the first to admit it. I’ll be heading to the range tomorrow with 6-8 different types of ammo and various lots. I’ll report back on what I see with the various ammo brands and lots.
 
Yesss!! My Bravo came in this afternoon.

Now my TRG has a proper little brother. Feels almost identical and was able to match the LOP.

The Bravo feels outstanding. I see why these have been so popular for centerfire guns.


7051224
 
My T1x showed up earlier this week.

Everything seems great except the bolt.

The bolt is smooth and fits well with no binding or play. However, there is noticeable bolt drag and it feels like more resistance than my t3x. The resistance feels like it is dragging on the bottom (across the trigger?) Although I see no signs of wear. I have wiped down the bolt and action and removed the thick oil it ships with. I haven't given it a proper cleaning (that will be this weekend) and I expect that will help a bit. I expect it is more than that.

Any feedback? suggestions?

Maybe this has been addressed, I didn't find it in search.

Thanks
 
My T1x showed up earlier this week.

Everything seems great except the bolt.

The bolt is smooth and fits well with no binding or play. However, there is noticeable bolt drag and it feels like more resistance than my t3x. The resistance feels like it is dragging on the bottom (across the trigger?) Although I see no signs of wear. I have wiped down the bolt and action and removed the thick oil it ships with. I haven't given it a proper cleaning (that will be this weekend) and I expect that will help a bit. I expect it is more than that.

Any feedback? suggestions?

Maybe this has been addressed, I didn't find it in search.

Thanks
Watch the bolt stop as you pull the bolt back and forward... that might be the dragging youre experiencing? Otherwise a good clean and oil might improve it. It's not common for tikka/sako to leave any rough machining but it's possible. Theres a few cross pins in the bolt too which need to be sitting flush.