Bravo came last night. Installed it on the
T1X. Looks and feels like it's big brother the Tikka 6.5.
T1X. Looks and feels like it's big brother the Tikka 6.5.
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Watch the bolt stop as you pull the bolt back and forward... that might be the dragging youre experiencing? Otherwise a good clean and oil might improve it. It's not common for tikka/sako to leave any rough machining but it's possible. Theres a few cross pins in the bolt too which need to be sitting flush.
yeah give me 2 days and ill get them posted.Looks good, can you please take a pic of the inside backbone and trigger guard? Id love to see how its all attached with room for the mag well.
So I got my rifle last week and shot it yesterday. My only complaints about it are the bolt handle and stock. I just got a KRG Bravo to put the rifle in so that part is fixed. I did not really care for the add on knob that is available so I went a different direction. I wanted something longer. What I did was made a mold of a knob I have that I really like. I then ground the knob down and cast a tooling resin over the knob. The resin has a high metal content and I added a black dye. All and all I’m pretty happy with the result.
Making a mold of the knob I likeView attachment 7052141
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The bolt disassembled
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The bolt ground downView attachment 7052144
Casting the resin around the knob
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The finished knob installed.
View attachment 7052146View attachment 7052147
And nice sandals hippie. ?
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I thought this was getting a little uncivilized with talk of ejection and hole spacing.
Which bipod rail did you use? Does it add a qd cup. I love my tikkas and the plastic stocks are much more comfortable than they look. However, the single sling stud configuration on a narrow sloping neck is unfortunate.
Thanks, I had looked and enlarged your photo to get a look and didn't know if it was something else I needed to pick up. Thanks for clarifyingThe Bravo comes with a 2” picatinny rail for the front to mount a bipod. If you look at my photo above I took of the sling lug and put the pic rail in its place then added a QD sling mount to the front.
Has anyone upgraded their trigger spring. I’ve seen yodave makes one for the T1X but also seen Elay has one for the t3. Is the trigger spring the same for the T3 as it is for the T1X? I emailed Elay and they weren’t sure if it would work.
If you're referring to the bore guide from High Velocity Hunting Australia, since it's an international order, your credit card company should convert the $45 cost + $24 shipping to the U.S. currency rate. Since the U.S. dollar has a higher value than the AUS dollar, your actual CC charge will be less, probably currently under $50. I just ordered the bore guide and the 1.5 lb. trigger spring which including the $24 shipping charge came to $84 total. My CC bank sent me an email informing me that I had received an international charge that had been converted to $59.53 U.S. under the current conversion rate. Still a little pricey, but at least they have it.Bore guide suggestion anybody? I dont really want to pay 70$ to get one from Aus.
I used one one action screw (front) that came with the Bravo. It was shorter than the factory action screw which is my guess as to why it was included. The rear action screw is the factory screw. I checked the torque settings on the factory action screws and they were just shy of 30 in-lbs. I tightened to that for now until I can get a definitive answer from someone. I just didn’t want to over tighten them until I’m sure. I will say I am super impressed with this Bravo chassis for the money. I think I’m putting a Whiskey 3 on my wish list now for one of my centerfire rifles. I’m going to Cerakote the action and add the accessories to my chassis tonight but as soon as I have that done I will post some photos.
@Eoddave27 Looks awesome! Is that the 20” barrel? Can you guys get the 16” barrel down there (in the US)?
Yep, it’s the 20”. I would really wanted to get the 16” but I haven’t seen those here yet. Now that I have it in the chassis though I’m actually glad I got the 20”. It balances really well and I don’t plan to shoot it suppressed so it will not get any longer.
First, you bitches are slacking we only have one more post than Ruger rimfire has. Secondly here is some ammo testing out of my T1x. Round count is 380 at the start with no cleaning. This does have a tikka two stage trigger in it.
I got the targets mixed up and had to rename them. SK rifle match is stupidly accurate and the CCI standard velocity shoots really well.
This was not shot in the best conditions. I was shooting with a gamechanger front bag ( constantly having to adjust, not high enough) and a cheap midway cylinder bag for the rear. I had to really work at getting this set up to hold steady. I ended up having to put a soft rifle case under the Gamechanger to get it to work. This is what you have to do when you forget your sandbags and front rest and have to dig through the car to find shit.
I used one one action screw (front) that came with the Bravo. It was shorter than the factory action screw which is my guess as to why it was included. The rear action screw is the factory screw. I checked the torque settings on the factory action screws and they were just shy of 30 in-lbs. I tightened to that for now until I can get a definitive answer from someone. I just didn’t want to over tighten them until I’m sure. I will say I am super impressed with this Bravo chassis for the money. I think I’m putting a Whiskey 3 on my wish list now for one of my centerfire rifles. I’m going to Cerakote the action and add the accessories to my chassis tonight but as soon as I have that done I will post some photos.
Is the rear the factory one? I used the one that came with the Bravo.. maybe an oops but I didn't notice any issues when I took it out to the range. Torqued at 65 per the KRG instructions.