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Just ordered a T1X last night and also a KRG Bravo. Will order a Harris BRMS today, some extra mags, and maybe some of the ammo you guys have recommended. I have some Tenex, Midas plus, SK RM, and SK Biathlon "in stock". Trying to decide on a scope now. The Athlon Midas TAC 6-24 x 50 looks good. I like the floating dot. Maybe even the Midas TAC 5-25 x 56. Will that 34mm scope look out of place?
It may be somewhere back in these 62 pages but I need to know what the muzzle diameter at the rear of the threads of the T1x factory barrel is.
I shoot in a match that has one class defined by max power of scope and diameter of the muzzle.
THX
It may be somewhere back in these 62 pages but I need to know what the muzzle diameter at the rear of the threads of the T1x factory barrel is.
I shoot in a match that has one class defined by max power of scope and diameter of the muzzle.
THX
It is definitely not threaded an inch. I don't believe an inch is typical anywhere? My 308 and my 22 are not threaded an inch. I can measure when I get home, but I'm pretty sure it's more like 1/2"
Anybody know what the muzzle thread length is? I know it's 1/2x28 thread pitch, but how long is the threaded muzzle? An inch is pretty typical. I'm designing my eform1 now (I have the stamp). I can measure when I get home, but thought someone here might know.
Thank you,
Chad
The thread protector on mine measures .492" so that's the length from the shoulder to the end of the muzzle. So yeah, definitely not 1" of threads.
It is 0.491 including the undercut before the threads start. The threads are only cut 0.394 long, undercut between threads and barrel is 0.097
Thread protector measures 0.492
If your spectre isnt threading all the way down, there's something wrong. Do your other hosts have really short threads? I'd bet the threads on your suppressor are caked with carbon and lead.
Got the T1x back from the gunsmith and ran 400 rounds through it today with no FTF issues which is a miracle. Shot CCI, SK Standard and was pleasantly surprised by Eley Target. Groups below are at 50yds. Four corners are 10 rd others are 5. View attachment 7196430
He said he polished it up and removed burr near feed ramp.What did he say he did?
That's a pretty cheap job to solve all those frustrations!He said he polished it up and removed burr near feed ramp.
I’ll take it. I couldn’t get through a ten round mag on an NrL22 stage beforeThat's a pretty cheap job to solve all those frustrations!
I’ll take it. I couldn’t get through a ten round mag on an NrL22 stage before
I'm getting a small feed ramp polished on my IBI barrel tomorrow. I had one of their earlier barrels w/o a feed ramp and it doesn't FTF but it requires a bit more force to close the bolt. Excited to hopefully get it silky smooth
Maybe my o-ring is too fat, or I just don't want to mess anything up. I feel I could tighten it more with a tool, but I'd never be able to remove it by hand. Here's a couple of pics of it as tight as I can get it by hand. You can see a gap where the back of the silencer isn't mating to the barrel shoulder. On the inside you can see the O-ring starting to squeeze out (sorry for crappy focus). I read that if it's not mated to the shoulder, then the baffles aren't necessarily concentric since you're relying on the "evenness" of the O-ring. Kind of along the same line of thinking of using peel washers vs crush washer when putting on a QD brake. There's no guarantee of the center hole being inline with the bore. Threads are clean, though the blast chamber is dirty. Side note, anyone know how to clean the hard carbon off the blast chamber? Used SimpleGreen solution in a heated ultrasonic cleaner.I run a spectre 2 with no problems. The reason the spec is .4" is because of the internal O-ring interface to keep carbon out of the threads. Longer than that just threads into the O-ring. Screw just the rear cap on and see what's going on in there.
I did consider fiddling with the ejector spring but not as much as I should have. My factory barrel was feeding and ejecting everything well and I only had issues with the ibi barrel having a rougher feed. I might lighten the ejector spring more tomorrow to see how it goes.Littlepod I’m curious man because I have this exact issue and I’ve found something completely different but it’s solving one problem that’s creating another.
Did you happen to bend your ejector spring out a bit to get it to throw everything clear? It’s been takes about in several places and it’s a known issue/fix so I did it to mine as well. We went from buttery smooth feeding and extraction with random failures to eject to a catch exactly where you are with perfect extraction/ejection.
Bending the spring outwards to give it more tension to eject spent casings is pushing the round outward the second it leaves the magazine feed lips and putting outward pressure on the extractor.
I’ve stoned my extractor and moved the spring tiny bit by tiny bit so many times it’s ridiculous and I still can’t get it perfect. If I straiten the spring back to factory specs it will slide in the chamber like a champ but then we are back to not wanting to eject on every bolt thrown unless it’s moved at the perfect speed.
This is my only complaint with this rifle but it’s a pretty severe one as I bought it strictly for competition use next year so it needs to be reliable and this chincy ejector spring is causing some fits.
Man mine would only eject when run smooth, that was my problem. If I can the bolt fast 1/10 would just sit on top of the mag. If I ran it in a smooth motion it was perfection.
I’ve yet to master smooth when a clock is running though hence my attempts to make it fling them when run hard.
it does that well now, just not buttery smooth on the way in, almost identical to yours. Oh well, I guess you can’t have it all.
BTW, do you have to call IBI to order a barrel or can you do it online?
I’m guessing it looked like this...I e-mailed them to order the barrel. And then eventually called in to give my CC information. jerry @ mystic precision can also do the order - [email protected]. McGowan might be making T1X barrels now, but they weren't before. I've also heard great things about McGowan, all around the $315-350 USD range. IBI is now putting feed ramps into their barrels from the factory so people won't have to do this. They offered to exchange mine for me but they can't fix mine and send it back due to US/Canada import/export rules. I already ammo matched my rifle with 2 cases of ammo so I really didn't want to get a new one that didn't like the 10,000 rounds I just bought.
So when you run it fast, you're also pulling back fast right? I had a RO look at me when I was having some FTE and he was like, you're not pulling back hard enough / almost short stroking it too. After I started pulling back faster/complete I never had an FTE again.
Yesterday I had my friend get the first FTF on my rifle where the round was stuck up straight, I've never seen it happen before. I noticed that it had nothing to do with the ejector/feed of the barrel and had to do with the magazine. When I took the mag out and put the round in, the round would still pop upwards at a pretty steep angle. I had to unload a few rounds and re-put them in, somehow the spring in the magazine was not seated straight down and causing the rounds to push upwards at the nose. He either might not have loaded the rounds in all the way seated, or something weird happen, but never saw that until yesterday. And only happened once to him, I shot 100 rounds w/o issue.
I should have taken a picture, but the rounds were clearly pointing upwards from the magazine.
That's the after effect after pushing the round forward. When I put the round back into the magazine it was angled steeper than usual which causes it to miss the chamber and push straight upwards. I had to unload two rounds and get the magazine spring to reset properly and then everything was fine.I’m guessing it looked like this...View attachment 7198011
Thanks for the responses. My only real concern with the Tikka is feeding and ejection issues. I haven’t had any feeding issues since I rounded off the top of the breech where round reeds. Ran 200rds through it yesterday with no feeding/ejection issues. I’ll just shoot what I have and then test ammo when I’m out of this SK +. This SK + shot really well in a 455 I had so I was expecting similar. Obviously, rim fires are different but I had high hopes.
Few questions for you 457 and T1X owners. I currently have a T1X set up with a Bravo stock, 419 rail, trigger spring and Sterk handle. I have only shot SK + through it with ok results. I have it tested anything else to this point because I have about 1700rds left of this SK.
I’m looking at 457’s after playing with one at the range yesterday. Action seemed slick and the trigger was nice. It made me want one.
If I set up a 457 I would need to test it to see how it compared to my T1X and then sell the one that underperforms.
Question for you 457 and T1X owners is, would it be worth the money to outfit a 457 just to compare or should I just stick with this T1X and test ammo when I run out of this SK +? Also knowing that the T1X for a lot of folks has feeding issues. Oh and I have a T1X in 17HMR in a Bravo set up as well.
Also, would anyone want to sell me a box of their proven T1X ammo just to test in mine to help with my sanity?
Thanks in advance
I came across this video - But I can't find any information on what mod he did though to get the feed to be basically centered right onto the barrel.