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Tikka T1X
- Thread starter jbell
- Start date
as someone else who was there, i will vouch for @Eoddave27 about the shooter going 5/5 at 450 yards. it was a thing of beauty. we had one guy hit at 500 but then miss at 550. it was a lot of fun.
one piece of caution with the Eley Force is that there is a TON of variability between lots of it. if you find a good lot for your rifle, buy it up. i made the mistake of not doing that and have been all over the place with different lots i've shot this year. The white box Rec Pack seems to be a little sloppier than the blue box Force
one piece of caution with the Eley Force is that there is a TON of variability between lots of it. if you find a good lot for your rifle, buy it up. i made the mistake of not doing that and have been all over the place with different lots i've shot this year. The white box Rec Pack seems to be a little sloppier than the blue box Force
34mm tube, looks fine to me, it varies from person to person I’m sure but I have no complaints. Especially with the .05 mil dot for shooting groups.
It may be somewhere back in these 62 pages but I need to know what the muzzle diameter at the rear of the threads of the T1x factory barrel is.
I shoot in a match that has one class defined by max power of scope and diameter of the muzzle.
THX
I shoot in a match that has one class defined by max power of scope and diameter of the muzzle.
THX
Well the factory tikka muzzle is so small that I don't think you're going to find anything smaller
No worries on that one.
Anybody know what the muzzle thread length is? I know it's 1/2x28 thread pitch, but how long is the threaded muzzle? An inch is pretty typical. I'm designing my eform1 now (I have the stamp). I can measure when I get home, but thought someone here might know.
Thank you,
Chad
Thank you,
Chad
It is definitely not threaded an inch. I don't believe an inch is typical anywhere? My 308 and my 22 are not threaded an inch. I can measure when I get home, but I'm pretty sure it's more like 1/2"
Link to specs from Yankee Hill:
If I read correctly it is .400-.520 length allowed.
If I read correctly it is .400-.520 length allowed.
I measured and it’s .492 like another member mentioned.
thanks guys.....not sure where I got an inch from.....pulling from my aging memory ?
It is 0.491 including the undercut before the threads start. The threads are only cut 0.394 long, undercut between threads and barrel is 0.097
Thread protector measures 0.492
Threads are 1/2-28 UNEF for North American market
For the threads, I tried putting my Silencerco Spectre II on it and when getting tight, it didn't quite hit the shoulder of the barrel. It was bottoming out internally, which is not recommended since it could cause the baffles/exit to not be concentric to bore. I had a small spacer from using on my ARs and put it on the threads. This allows me to get the silencer tight without bottoming out the threads. Might be worth looking at getting a spacer if that's an issue for you? No issues shooting Bulk Winchester through it. Need to try some subsonic stuff.
I run the Spectre II on a GSG 1911 host and it threads on fine. The Spectre II on the T1X would get to within about a business cards width of the barrel shoulder and stop. This was after fresh cleaning in the ultrasonic cleaner, so it wasn't carbon build up. I did some research and the Spectre II specs are for .400 thread depth. Like many here, I measured from the muzzle to the barrel shoulder at something like .492. Runs just fine with the spacer, and it seems to be an issue with my particular can. Just a heads up with others with a Spectre II. Pic attached of the can with spacer.
I run a spectre 2 with no problems. The reason the spec is .4" is because of the internal O-ring interface to keep carbon out of the threads. Longer than that just threads into the O-ring. Screw just the rear cap on and see what's going on in there.
Got the T1x back from the gunsmith and ran 400 rounds through it today with no FTF issues which is a miracle. Shot CCI, SK Standard and was pleasantly surprised by Eley Target. Groups below are at 50yds. Four corners are 10 rd others are 5.
That's fantastic. I'm bringing mine to a gunsmith to help with feeding as well to make it a little smoother in my IBI. Even though I did pay the extra for the IBI, I never had real complaints on the factory barrel. It's great that you now have it running a lot smoother.
He said he polished it up and removed burr near feed ramp.
I’ll take it. I couldn’t get through a ten round mag on an NrL22 stage before
I'm getting a small feed ramp polished on my IBI barrel tomorrow. I had one of their earlier barrels w/o a feed ramp and it doesn't FTF but it requires a bit more force to close the bolt. Excited to hopefully get it silky smooth
I'm getting a small feed ramp polished on my IBI barrel tomorrow. I had one of their earlier barrels w/o a feed ramp and it doesn't FTF but it requires a bit more force to close the bolt. Excited to hopefully get it silky smooth
Please report back (and with photo please, perhaps before you re-install the barrel) - I have same issue.
Maybe my o-ring is too fat, or I just don't want to mess anything up. I feel I could tighten it more with a tool, but I'd never be able to remove it by hand. Here's a couple of pics of it as tight as I can get it by hand. You can see a gap where the back of the silencer isn't mating to the barrel shoulder. On the inside you can see the O-ring starting to squeeze out (sorry for crappy focus). I read that if it's not mated to the shoulder, then the baffles aren't necessarily concentric since you're relying on the "evenness" of the O-ring. Kind of along the same line of thinking of using peel washers vs crush washer when putting on a QD brake. There's no guarantee of the center hole being inline with the bore. Threads are clean, though the blast chamber is dirty. Side note, anyone know how to clean the hard carbon off the blast chamber? Used SimpleGreen solution in a heated ultrasonic cleaner.
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I'm betting the resistance you are feeling is the o-ring rolling over and bunching up instead of the barrel threading into the o-ring. Try putting some lube on the o-ring and trying again. Personally I stay away from the spacers since it's just something else to stack tolerances and they are a band aid at best.
I put mine in a stainless tumbler when I clean brass. Comes our very clean and no extra chemicals to deal with. If you dont have one, CLR is what everyone recommends to remove carbon.
I put mine in a stainless tumbler when I clean brass. Comes our very clean and no extra chemicals to deal with. If you dont have one, CLR is what everyone recommends to remove carbon.
Debris in either set of threads? Doesn't take much.
Possible slightly oversize male threads? Can you check dimensions over wires?
Agreed that you should be using the shoulder to ensure the can bore is concentric to the rifle bore.
Don't worry about minor carbon/lead buildup, doesn't hurt a thing. Brush off the loose stuff and let it go.
Possible slightly oversize male threads? Can you check dimensions over wires?
Agreed that you should be using the shoulder to ensure the can bore is concentric to the rifle bore.
Don't worry about minor carbon/lead buildup, doesn't hurt a thing. Brush off the loose stuff and let it go.
@Jefe's Dope so I went to a gunsmith today to get a polish on my IBI barrel to put in a feed ramp and he noticed that the angle in which rounds were being pushed from the magazine were off. I believe this symptom could also cause FTF which causes the bullets to flip upwards if that's what some people are having.
While having a feed ramp is definitely good (I need to bring it back tomorrow to get more of a break on the hard edge), the gunsmith noticed that the rim of the ammo was not properly seating behind the extractor. So if the rim doesn't make it behind the extractor, the extractor is just pushing the ammo at a weird angle instead of it being seated more horizontally with the barrel.
He ended up polishing and sharpening the extractor, and he also rounded the bottom edge of it so that rimfire rims will easilly roll under the extractor. This changed the angle of feeding dramatically. You might want to take a look at the extractor as the culprit behind Center-X not feeding.
While having a feed ramp is definitely good (I need to bring it back tomorrow to get more of a break on the hard edge), the gunsmith noticed that the rim of the ammo was not properly seating behind the extractor. So if the rim doesn't make it behind the extractor, the extractor is just pushing the ammo at a weird angle instead of it being seated more horizontally with the barrel.
He ended up polishing and sharpening the extractor, and he also rounded the bottom edge of it so that rimfire rims will easilly roll under the extractor. This changed the angle of feeding dramatically. You might want to take a look at the extractor as the culprit behind Center-X not feeding.
Any way of getting pics of what was done to the extractor? Visual is better for my brain, lol.
Spent 3 hours with the gunsmith going little by little. We didn't want to do too much and screw up the precision of it. At this point it's not buttery smooth but it feeds a whole lot better than before. Also going slow isn't generally what people do, if I feed normally I don't notice anything.
Here's the extractor
And here's a video (if these will attach)
Notice that the round will go behind the extractor and get pretty close to horizontal. I guess no sound on imgur? But you'd hear a click when the round jumps into place behind the extractor.
This is where it gets semi-hung up, it was a lot worse before but rounding up the edge, I can possibly have him work on it some more, but if I'm not feeding slowly, it isn't that much resistance. The round no longer has a deep scratch on it, just a small imprint. It was a lot worse before.
Here's the extractor
And here's a video (if these will attach)
Notice that the round will go behind the extractor and get pretty close to horizontal. I guess no sound on imgur? But you'd hear a click when the round jumps into place behind the extractor.
This is where it gets semi-hung up, it was a lot worse before but rounding up the edge, I can possibly have him work on it some more, but if I'm not feeding slowly, it isn't that much resistance. The round no longer has a deep scratch on it, just a small imprint. It was a lot worse before.
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Thanks so much for the write-up, photos and video.
I'm assuming you took the barrel off to mess with (add a bit of) the feed ramp. Does not look like a big change from before.
I'm assuming you took the barrel off to mess with (add a bit of) the feed ramp. Does not look like a big change from before.
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Yeh the gunsmith took off the barrel multiple times and did a bit of polishing stone to take off piece by piece. It's hard to capture how much was done, but it's a lot more than what the picture shows. The issue is doing more means going more into the chamber, and not sure what that could cause to the precision of the barrel if we start taking it deeper into the chamber to prevent the round from rubbing at that angle. The T1X factory barrel doesn't have that much of a ramp, but I think their chamber is a decent bigger. If I take off too much and go into the chamber, do I worry about pressure leakage? Brass rupturing? I'll talk to IBI and see what they think.
Littlepod I’m curious man because I have this exact issue and I’ve found something completely different but it’s solving one problem that’s creating another.
Did you happen to bend your ejector spring out a bit to get it to throw everything clear? It’s been takes about in several places and it’s a known issue/fix so I did it to mine as well. We went from buttery smooth feeding and extraction with random failures to eject to a catch exactly where you are with perfect extraction/ejection.
Bending the spring outwards to give it more tension to eject spent casings is pushing the round outward the second it leaves the magazine feed lips and putting outward pressure on the extractor.
I’ve stoned my extractor and moved the spring tiny bit by tiny bit so many times it’s ridiculous and I still can’t get it perfect. If I straiten the spring back to factory specs it will slide in the chamber like a champ but then we are back to not wanting to eject on every bolt thrown unless it’s moved at the perfect speed.
This is my only complaint with this rifle but it’s a pretty severe one as I bought it strictly for competition use next year so it needs to be reliable and this chincy ejector spring is causing some fits.
Did you happen to bend your ejector spring out a bit to get it to throw everything clear? It’s been takes about in several places and it’s a known issue/fix so I did it to mine as well. We went from buttery smooth feeding and extraction with random failures to eject to a catch exactly where you are with perfect extraction/ejection.
Bending the spring outwards to give it more tension to eject spent casings is pushing the round outward the second it leaves the magazine feed lips and putting outward pressure on the extractor.
I’ve stoned my extractor and moved the spring tiny bit by tiny bit so many times it’s ridiculous and I still can’t get it perfect. If I straiten the spring back to factory specs it will slide in the chamber like a champ but then we are back to not wanting to eject on every bolt thrown unless it’s moved at the perfect speed.
This is my only complaint with this rifle but it’s a pretty severe one as I bought it strictly for competition use next year so it needs to be reliable and this chincy ejector spring is causing some fits.
I did consider fiddling with the ejector spring but not as much as I should have. My factory barrel was feeding and ejecting everything well and I only had issues with the ibi barrel having a rougher feed. I might lighten the ejector spring more tomorrow to see how it goes.
I did run two matches with it and didn't have issues. You don't really run the bolt slow in matches and I haven't seen issues in precision with my bullet slightly getting scraped. But yes I still aspire for buttery smooth
Man mine would only eject when run smooth, that was my problem. If I can the bolt fast 1/10 would just sit on top of the mag. If I ran it in a smooth motion it was perfection.
I’ve yet to master smooth when a clock is running though hence my attempts to make it fling them when run hard.
it does that well now, just not buttery smooth on the way in, almost identical to yours. Oh well, I guess you can’t have it all.
BTW, do you have to call IBI to order a barrel or can you do it online?
I’ve yet to master smooth when a clock is running though hence my attempts to make it fling them when run hard.
it does that well now, just not buttery smooth on the way in, almost identical to yours. Oh well, I guess you can’t have it all.
BTW, do you have to call IBI to order a barrel or can you do it online?
I e-mailed them to order the barrel. And then eventually called in to give my CC information. jerry @ mystic precision can also do the order - [email protected]. McGowan might be making T1X barrels now, but they weren't before. I've also heard great things about McGowan, all around the $315-350 USD range. IBI is now putting feed ramps into their barrels from the factory so people won't have to do this. They offered to exchange mine for me but they can't fix mine and send it back due to US/Canada import/export rules. I already ammo matched my rifle with 2 cases of ammo so I really didn't want to get a new one that didn't like the 10,000 rounds I just bought.
So when you run it fast, you're also pulling back fast right? I had a RO look at me when I was having some FTE and he was like, you're not pulling back hard enough / almost short stroking it too. After I started pulling back faster/complete I never had an FTE again.
Yesterday I had my friend get the first FTF on my rifle where the round was stuck up straight, I've never seen it happen before. I noticed that it had nothing to do with the ejector/feed of the barrel and had to do with the magazine. When I took the mag out and put the round in, the round would still pop upwards at a pretty steep angle. I had to unload a few rounds and re-put them in, somehow the spring in the magazine was not seated straight down and causing the rounds to push upwards at the nose. He either might not have loaded the rounds in all the way seated, or something weird happen, but never saw that until yesterday. And only happened once to him, I shot 100 rounds w/o issue.
I should have taken a picture, but the rounds were clearly pointing upwards from the magazine.
That's the after effect after pushing the round forward. When I put the round back into the magazine it was angled steeper than usual which causes it to miss the chamber and push straight upwards. I had to unload two rounds and get the magazine spring to reset properly and then everything was fine.
I hate you guys are having trouble with your Tikka's. I had this same problem with all three 22 lr's, the one 17 HMR and even a LNIB Sako Finnfire Range that I have. After my experiences I'm convinced the ejector wire in each and every rifle has a sweet spot where it will function 100%. You may have a .5% failure or 1 out of 200 but if that ejector wire is adjusted right it should work great. My first IBI barrel did not have a feed ramp, I didn't have any issues feeding or ejecting. At some point I have experienced every thing you guys have, from jamming the bullet into the bottom of the chamber, failure to eject and impossible to difficult to even close the bolt or strip a round from the mag. I know this is frustrating, trust me, I do know, but there is a sweet spot, you just have to find it.
Few questions for you 457 and T1X owners. I currently have a T1X set up with a Bravo stock, 419 rail, trigger spring and Sterk handle. I have only shot SK + through it with ok results. I have it tested anything else to this point because I have about 1700rds left of this SK.
I’m looking at 457’s after playing with one at the range yesterday. Action seemed slick and the trigger was nice. It made me want one.
If I set up a 457 I would need to test it to see how it compared to my T1X and then sell the one that underperforms.
Question for you 457 and T1X owners is, would it be worth the money to outfit a 457 just to compare or should I just stick with this T1X and test ammo when I run out of this SK +? Also knowing that the T1X for a lot of folks has feeding issues. Oh and I have a T1X in 17HMR in a Bravo set up as well.
Also, would anyone want to sell me a box of their proven T1X ammo just to test in mine to help with my sanity?
Thanks in advance
I’m looking at 457’s after playing with one at the range yesterday. Action seemed slick and the trigger was nice. It made me want one.
If I set up a 457 I would need to test it to see how it compared to my T1X and then sell the one that underperforms.
Question for you 457 and T1X owners is, would it be worth the money to outfit a 457 just to compare or should I just stick with this T1X and test ammo when I run out of this SK +? Also knowing that the T1X for a lot of folks has feeding issues. Oh and I have a T1X in 17HMR in a Bravo set up as well.
Also, would anyone want to sell me a box of their proven T1X ammo just to test in mine to help with my sanity?
Thanks in advance
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Deadeye I might offer a few suggestions. First off try some Lapua Pistol King in your Tikka also SK Rifle Match was a standout. Second, I'd never own another 457 UNLESS I bought the cheapest one offered for the purpose of shedding the stock and barrel to start with. ATM, personally I'm not interested in putting that much money into one. You would have to make that decision for yourself.
Yes, I couldn't get anything to shoot good. I'm talking Lapua Center-X, Pistol King, Eley Tenex, Match, Match Pistol, RWS R50 sc, Fed GM Match and Ultra Match just to name a few. It was the worst gun purchase I ever made. Obviously other people have had good experiences but I have not. The Jaguar model is actually the only one that would appeal to me now and leave it stock. Reason being is it has a 28" barrel, has iron sights and will take a suppressor.
Thanks for the responses. My only real concern with the Tikka is feeding and ejection issues. I haven’t had any feeding issues since I rounded off the top of the breech where round reeds. Ran 200rds through it yesterday with no feeding/ejection issues. I’ll just shoot what I have and then test ammo when I’m out of this SK +. This SK + shot really well in a 455 I had so I was expecting similar. Obviously, rim fires are different but I had high hopes.
If you get all of your feeding/ejecting issues sorted out, I think the Tikka outshoots the 457. I don't know what groups you're getting with your factory barrel but I was getting about 1moa at 100 yards with mine, and sub moa if I shot nicer ammo (center-x, tenex, match, biathlon, etc.) 1moa with SK+ and Eley Target.
I own a T1x and a 457. The two rifles are so close that there really is no significant difference in my opinion. One thing the Tikka has going for it is it shares the T3’s footprint for chassis and stocks which is really nice. The other thing the T1 x has in its favor is the magazine is a lot easier to get in the rifle.
For ammo my tikka really like Eley Contact. It also shoots Force really well but only in cold temperatures. In the summer it shoots the force a little faster and doesn’t group as well. My son also has a T1x and it loves SK Pistol Match. For the CZ anything made by Lapua shoots well. I have been using standard plus. Pistol Match shot amazing in it though. I shot severl groups around .5” with it at 100 and it averages well under an inch.
I think it will come down to the stock you have the rifle in. I had the T1x and bought the CZ just because I like rimfire rifles. I will still be using my Tikka for matches though.
I came across this video - But I can't find any information on what mod he did though to get the feed to be basically centered right onto the barrel.
Very minimal post on Canadian GunNutz (he refs it in the YouTube comments but provided no link).
Here is the link (can I cross post to other gun sites here?)
See post 1 - he modded the mag
CanadianGunNutz.com
Canadian firearms and guns news source. Canadian gun owners community. The largest free Canadian new and used firearms market place and classifieds.
www.canadiangunnutz.com
I'm a member there - I sent him a PM to see if he can add more info to that thread.
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