For the IBI mine really likes the Lapua/SK ammo. Mainly pistol match special, pistol king and center x.
-
Having trouble using the site?
Contact support
Tikka T1X
- Thread starter jbell
- Start date
Been a while since I’ve been on. Need some advice here. I’m running low on SK+ that I’m currently shooting and I need 2 bricks of something to cover me until I get a new barrel next summer. I don’t really want to lot test although I know that will produce better results. What ammo should I buy 2 bricks of?
Eley target or Eley contact. Vizards sells it for a good price and $12 flat shipping.
You should use Lapua Pistol King. Several different lot numbers have shot great in all three of my T1x's. If I was forced to buy a case of something I would go with Pistol King. Two brick would be nothing. But, nobody shoots it but me so it doesn't get much recognition.
I was going to get a few bricks of Pistol King, but I wasn't sure how it'd fare at 250-350 yards. It did quite well at 100 though. I ended up choosing center-x because I believe it's slightly faster. And it's the same price for Center-X vs Pistol King
In my mind, if ammo brand "A" shoots better at 55 yards than brand "B", "C" and "D" then brand "A" will shoot better than each of those at ANY distance. Think about that for a minute, the bullet actually has to curve back towards the center of the target. I just don't see how that is possible. I'd have to experience that myself to believe it, and it would have to be consistent not just a time or two.
At some point the velocity in which you're flying will get affected by wind more so if pistol king is 100 fps slower it might get a lot more affected at longer distances. Like air rifles do fantastic at 50m. But probably is not going to hold at 200m.
Both things being equal at 100y. I'd choose the one that's faster thinking it would be affected less by environment at 200+.
I see your way of thinking. To counter that, I would say when the more accurate round drops further than the faster round at 300 yards it would still group tighter, therefor be more accurate. At that point you would either adjust your scope or use holdover to accomodate for the drop.
From this type of logic it would be safe and accurate to say the faster round is more accurate at longer distances so we should all use hyper velocity or at a minimum high velocity ammo. We all know this isn't the case.
Another way to look at this is if a car has an alignment issue and steers to the right 10 feet every 50 yards it would make sense that it would steer another 10 feet at 100 yards and so on. In comparison to a car that drives straight at 50 will/should drive straight at 100. It is my belief that speed is irrelevant in this application.
I just can't wrap my head around and would have to test it for myself.
From this type of logic it would be safe and accurate to say the faster round is more accurate at longer distances so we should all use hyper velocity or at a minimum high velocity ammo. We all know this isn't the case.
Another way to look at this is if a car has an alignment issue and steers to the right 10 feet every 50 yards it would make sense that it would steer another 10 feet at 100 yards and so on. In comparison to a car that drives straight at 50 will/should drive straight at 100. It is my belief that speed is irrelevant in this application.
I just can't wrap my head around and would have to test it for myself.
Yeah, in the Beraga B-14R assessment thread I shot all ten of those 50 round plates back to back.
I did but the shank/receiver fit was really loose and I thought it should be tighter and Ryan with IBI agreed. I requested the new barrel to have a shank OD size of .700" and requested the Winchester 52D match chamber on this one. As long as I shot Center-X it shot spectacular, anything else was really just average IMO.
Yes, I agree with you on that one. If all things being equal, 50, 100, 200 should all be the same if there are no environmental factors. I was just thinking that wind would disrupt a slower round further. Maybe that's not the case, to be honest I haven't really tested Pistol King out at 250 yards to compare with Center-X. I know my Center-X shoots about a 2.5" 10 shot group at 200 yards. I might try out Pistol King again
It has performed well for me time after time on my 100 yard groups - though that's only been 2 boxes from 2 different lots.
When I get moved to VA and am able to shoot out to 300 yards I can test this. I'm not saying what you are saying is false, it's just I can't wrap my mind around it.
A side note, my IBI barrel come today. They made it just like I requested with a .700" shank. Of course it won't fit the receiver but I was hoping to freeze the barrel and if needed heat the receiver to make them fit. Problem is I've had the barrel in the freezer for over two hours and it hasn't shrunk yet lol. I might be in trouble. The factory barrel from that receiver measures .6955" and it slips in with wiggle room.
A side note, my IBI barrel come today. They made it just like I requested with a .700" shank. Of course it won't fit the receiver but I was hoping to freeze the barrel and if needed heat the receiver to make them fit. Problem is I've had the barrel in the freezer for over two hours and it hasn't shrunk yet lol. I might be in trouble. The factory barrel from that receiver measures .6955" and it slips in with wiggle room.
You're making me laugh, but not in a mean way. How hard to trim it down to exactly what you wanted? Was your intention always to freeze and install it?
Yes, I had planned on that. Honestly I thought it would slip in some because I have so much wiggle room with the factory barrel I knew I didn't want .6955 or smaller. To take up that wiggle room I estimated that .700" would be a good starting point as you have to keep in mind that .002" should be going to each side of the shank. It would be like inserting the factory barrel then add .002" to each side. That would have been equivalent to having a perfect fit barrel that would measure .6995". Someone correct my math if I'm wrong. So by estimating I need a shank size of .6995" I just rounded it up to be safe and use the freeze/heat method if needed.WTH went wrong lol.
You should've asked for .6995
WTH went wrong lol.
Why didn't you just use calipers inside the action? What's the action actually measure?
I tried that but it was just too difficult to get an accurate measurement.You should've asked for .6995
Why didn't you just use calipers inside the action? What's the action actually measure?
I thought my best chance was to take measurements from the shank. Maybe I should have asked for .699" I guess but my thinking was I could use the freeze/heat method for a press fit and it would be perfect with the .700" shank.
I have a local machine shop that can easily turn this shank down if push comes to shove.
KOD you could try and polish the shank not remove anything just to make sure no burrs or tooling marks are stopping you. VA I couldn't do that it is beautiful country but I would be an instant felony with all the gun garbage they just passed.
You should've asked for .6995
Why didn't you just use calipers inside the action? What's the action actually measure?
A inside micrometer would be the tool for that job, calipers are fine for some stuff. But not for this.
Yeah, the move to VA will be a challenge for sure but when you have family involved in the process it's not the same as an individual decision. My target location was always TN.
As for the burrs, that's the first thing I checked. Also checked the OD on the edge just to make sure it didn't have a taper in it. I took 6 measurements and they were all exactly .7005" so it is perfectly round as it should be. Soon I'll be taking shank measurements to see if the shank has shrunk lol.
Got to try out some different breeds of ammo on New Years... I must have a misfit rifle lol my T1x does not like eley club ( I know it’s low on the list of eley stuff but it’s all I could find at buds) it was the worst grouping shell of the lot, worse than Norma and cci.... sk standard+ did ok, I’d compare it to CCI sv out of mine... but the winner of the day was federal match 922a box, super tight out to 100 yards and here’s the kicker, went into the local Dunham’s store and actually found 4 boxes of match, 2 boxes of ultra match, and one box of target stacked in with HV match, had the same price tags as the HV at $4 a box. Couldn’t let that luck get away... might go buy a lottery ticket now?
Long range 22LR trainer - how to get best out of it?
22LR rifles have always been very popular. Most of us have one sitting in safety. Some of us have also spent quite a bit hard-earned money to make their small rimfire feel and look similar to favorite big center-fire. All in sake of realistic low-budget training. It is also not too uncommon to...
finnaccuracy.com
I want to give an update on this IBI barrel. I have had this barrel in the freezer for around 9 hours. The area of concern is .7005". It is made from 416 Stainless Steel. I don't know the temperature but it is colder than ice. It sticks to any soft material or fabric. You can't hold it, this is how cold it is. Guess what, the damn thing didn't shrink one bit.
So for anyone out there who proclaims this freeze method works in a household freezer for decreasing the OD on SS at my diameter has to be speaking from hearsay. Based on my actual results it simply doesn't work. So....
The leads me to the heat method on the receiver. Does anyone have any input at all on this method? It being an oven we can control the temp and time. Has anyone personally done this and successfully increase their ID size? If so, please share your knowledge.
So for anyone out there who proclaims this freeze method works in a household freezer for decreasing the OD on SS at my diameter has to be speaking from hearsay. Based on my actual results it simply doesn't work. So....
The leads me to the heat method on the receiver. Does anyone have any input at all on this method? It being an oven we can control the temp and time. Has anyone personally done this and successfully increase their ID size? If so, please share your knowledge.
Eley Club has been the worse shooting ammo in 3 of my 22's. I haven't found a rifle that liked it at all. Eley Target has shot well for me, same with Eley Contact. But Club is just crap.
@littlepod its very unfortunate I had super high hopes for it. The groups were atrocious at 50 looked like an inch and a half didn’t waste any time tossing that crap back in the truck.
KOD, do you have a good gunsmith in your area? i Think your best bet is to go and have a gunsmith fit the barrel to the action. It shouldn’t cost that much and will save you a ton of headache. You also know it will be done right and not damage your action.
@Kisssofdeath
I have had to heat shrink parts together before, including some barrelwork.It does work- IF the Delta T is large enough to get the appropriate change in dimensions and the parts are appropriately sized to begin with.
To know if you can heat shrink a fittment you need decent measurements of both parts, a micrometer gets your barrel tennon easy enough and a hole mic or pin gauges will get what you need on the reciever then do the math to determine Delta T needed...
You can safely heat a reciever (providing no plastic is attached) to 200-300 degrees F easily (very conservative temp, lower than some cerrakote cure temp and less than half of what it would take to affect a change in heat treatment of many steels) with no concern at all (much bigger Delta T than freezing alone)
If you need a bigger Delta T than heat gun and freezer, red neck dry liquid nitrogen ( aka pelletized dry ice / isylropl alcohol mixture sublimates much cooler than dry ice's -110ish degrees F) helps get the cold part "colder"
Proper planning , proper PPE, extra hands, and working quick all make life less stressful
I have had to heat shrink parts together before, including some barrelwork.It does work- IF the Delta T is large enough to get the appropriate change in dimensions and the parts are appropriately sized to begin with.
To know if you can heat shrink a fittment you need decent measurements of both parts, a micrometer gets your barrel tennon easy enough and a hole mic or pin gauges will get what you need on the reciever then do the math to determine Delta T needed...
You can safely heat a reciever (providing no plastic is attached) to 200-300 degrees F easily (very conservative temp, lower than some cerrakote cure temp and less than half of what it would take to affect a change in heat treatment of many steels) with no concern at all (much bigger Delta T than freezing alone)
If you need a bigger Delta T than heat gun and freezer, red neck dry liquid nitrogen ( aka pelletized dry ice / isylropl alcohol mixture sublimates much cooler than dry ice's -110ish degrees F) helps get the cold part "colder"
Proper planning , proper PPE, extra hands, and working quick all make life less stressful
Today, I finally got out to perform a meaningful ammo testing with My T1x. We hit the range at 9:00 a.m. before the wind picked up and had a good hour of shooting in zero to very mild conditions. Scope was an SWFA SS 12x42.
The rifle is glass bedded into a GRS Sporter stock, and has a MT bolt handle, and an Area 419 30MOA rail. Otherwise it is stock.
I shot off a concrete bench from a Harris bipod and a rear sandbag. 50 yards, no wind flags, or meter. Ammo tested was Prime Semi-auto, CCS SV, Aguila SV (Aguila Prime), & Aguila Subsonic (Eley Prime). All three shot well. Averaging .5xx across 5-6 5-shot groups with each ammo. There were a few .3xx groups and one very round .2xx group shot with Aguila subsonic. I shot a few .8xx groups but nothing as large as an inch. After testing at 50 we moved to the high power silhouette range and sniped the 200-meter chickens for a couple hours. The T1x and my friend’s Anschutz 64 MPR, were both deadly on the chickens. Mild but Shifting winds made it fun. We soft set them and were able to easily knock them over with one hit. Tons of fun!
The rifle is glass bedded into a GRS Sporter stock, and has a MT bolt handle, and an Area 419 30MOA rail. Otherwise it is stock.
I shot off a concrete bench from a Harris bipod and a rear sandbag. 50 yards, no wind flags, or meter. Ammo tested was Prime Semi-auto, CCS SV, Aguila SV (Aguila Prime), & Aguila Subsonic (Eley Prime). All three shot well. Averaging .5xx across 5-6 5-shot groups with each ammo. There were a few .3xx groups and one very round .2xx group shot with Aguila subsonic. I shot a few .8xx groups but nothing as large as an inch. After testing at 50 we moved to the high power silhouette range and sniped the 200-meter chickens for a couple hours. The T1x and my friend’s Anschutz 64 MPR, were both deadly on the chickens. Mild but Shifting winds made it fun. We soft set them and were able to easily knock them over with one hit. Tons of fun!
Good report rimfire22lr.
I'm the type of person who has a hard time giving up. I couldn't sit still so I removed the barrel on the other Tikka I have. Turns out it is .002" bigger than the other factory barrel but the IBI still didn't fit. Tikka #3 has a very tight barrel/receiver fit.
After that I gave up and Monday I'll contact a couple of machine shops I know of. Since I want to take .001" off at a time I'll have to look for someone with grinding capabilities.
I'm the type of person who has a hard time giving up. I couldn't sit still so I removed the barrel on the other Tikka I have. Turns out it is .002" bigger than the other factory barrel but the IBI still didn't fit. Tikka #3 has a very tight barrel/receiver fit.
After that I gave up and Monday I'll contact a couple of machine shops I know of. Since I want to take .001" off at a time I'll have to look for someone with grinding capabilities.
KOD, try to find a gunsmith, not a machine shop. Unless the machinist has experience working with rifle barrels it could potentially ruin the accuracy. A machinist will be able to make it fit fine but if you are trying to squeeze every last bit of accuracy out of the barrel like Im sure you are a machinist will not be good enough. This is the big reason I’m having a gunsmith custom chamber and fit my new barrel. I have never been able to get the level of accuracy out of a prefit that I got out of a custom fit barrel. A gunsmith is going to charge about the same as a machinist and you will have a much better chance of getting an accurate rifle. I will add that I do a lot of machinist work on both a lathe and mill and my gunsmith works in much much tighter tolerances than I ever do. Most of the time my tolerances are +-0.002. In general my gunsmith works with +- 0.0002.
Those of us about to drop money on a new rifle thank you for the testing - much appreciated! I thought I had it narrowed down between the 457 and the T1x, but it looks like I will have to add the B14r.
My problem is the only "gunsmiths" near me are just as questionable as the two machine shops I have in mind. One thing is for sure, I do want this done right.
"DRB"
There's at least a dozen ways to look at your situation. First way is, what's your "INTENDED/INITIAL" use going to be? Second way is what your "END" use will be? A third way is 'I DON'T KNOW I SIMPLY WANT A NEW RIFLE". Personally I tend to fall in the third category. Only firearms I buy that fit the second category are mainly collectable rifles that will be shot but not much. It's very rare I buy a rifle that fits the first category.
And you are right, the B-14R has hijacked one slice of the pizza and added their own toppings. <----- Yeah, just made that up.
There's at least a dozen ways to look at your situation. First way is, what's your "INTENDED/INITIAL" use going to be? Second way is what your "END" use will be? A third way is 'I DON'T KNOW I SIMPLY WANT A NEW RIFLE". Personally I tend to fall in the third category. Only firearms I buy that fit the second category are mainly collectable rifles that will be shot but not much. It's very rare I buy a rifle that fits the first category.
And you are right, the B-14R has hijacked one slice of the pizza and added their own toppings. <----- Yeah, just made that up.
I have tootled back through the 65 (was 58 when I started, lol, oh the growth) pages and been unable to find the post on casting resin on the bolt handle to change the size and feel to my centerfire knob that isn't made by DIP or Sterk.
Can someone direct me to it, or the gentleman who posted it so I can DM him?
Can someone direct me to it, or the gentleman who posted it so I can DM him?
I’m actually the guy who posted that. I will see if I can find it in my old posts I can send you the mold I made if you like. I can just make another one easy enough if I ever need it. What kind of resin do you plan to use for the knob? The reason I ask is if you don’t already have the resin on hand it maybe just as expensive as buying one of the DIP bolt handles. You need a thinner resin to flow into the mold. Something thick like JB Weld or a thick 5 min epoxy will not work. If you plan buy the stuff to make a mold and buy resin then it will be more expensive than one of the Sterk handles. I had all the supplies on hand because I do a lot of mold making so the small amount of material it used didn’t really cost me anything. The problem is buying small amounts of the materials is still expensive. I made mine when there wasn’t an aftermarket option available. As soon as DIP and Sterk bolt knobs became available I replaced the ones I cast with those. I guess my point is if you are making it to save some money it’s not the right option Unless you already have all the supplies.
Advice like this is what this community and sport is all about.
Well I just got a Tikka T1x from the LGS in order to get into NRL22 base class. Shot a match with a friend's rifle last year and, while it took awhile, the bug is back. Now saving for a scope.
Trying to keep this cheap and not spend on gear before skill warrants it. Planning on the Talley unitized Tikka T1x rings. Adding a cheap Caldwell bipod, Triad Tactical cheek bag/pack, and an M1903 sling that I already have. Hoping CCI SV performs well but I'll of course test other brands as funds allow. Trying to keep expenses down at this point.
My friend was running a Primary Arms 4-14x40 with the R-Grid reticle. Really like the reticle and it performed well for me. But I'm also intrigued by the Athlon Argos BTR 6-24x50 since I can get it on Amazon for a few bucks more. I don't like the Argos reticle as much as the Primary Arms, but all the other features seem to compete well.
Which would you all prefer, and am I doing anything wrong with my setup?
Trying to keep this cheap and not spend on gear before skill warrants it. Planning on the Talley unitized Tikka T1x rings. Adding a cheap Caldwell bipod, Triad Tactical cheek bag/pack, and an M1903 sling that I already have. Hoping CCI SV performs well but I'll of course test other brands as funds allow. Trying to keep expenses down at this point.
My friend was running a Primary Arms 4-14x40 with the R-Grid reticle. Really like the reticle and it performed well for me. But I'm also intrigued by the Athlon Argos BTR 6-24x50 since I can get it on Amazon for a few bucks more. I don't like the Argos reticle as much as the Primary Arms, but all the other features seem to compete well.
Which would you all prefer, and am I doing anything wrong with my setup?
EODDave,
Thank you for the response. I wanted to make a mold to mirror the bolt knob on my ARC nucleus, and wanted to learn a bit more about mold making and casting.
I did not figure this method would be more expensive, however I clearly don't know what I don't know.i also didn't figure it was inferior to the existing metal knobs.
Based on what your saying I will bite the bullet and buy one.
Was the OEM knob difficult to remove? Mine is REALLY on there. Like twisting Allen keys on there. Any better way to get it off? Heat?
Thank you for the response. I wanted to make a mold to mirror the bolt knob on my ARC nucleus, and wanted to learn a bit more about mold making and casting.
I did not figure this method would be more expensive, however I clearly don't know what I don't know.i also didn't figure it was inferior to the existing metal knobs.
Based on what your saying I will bite the bullet and buy one.
Was the OEM knob difficult to remove? Mine is REALLY on there. Like twisting Allen keys on there. Any better way to get it off? Heat?
"DRB"
There's at least a dozen ways to look at your situation. First way is, what's your "INTENDED/INITIAL" use going to be? Second way is what your "END" use will be? A third way is 'I DON'T KNOW I SIMPLY WANT A NEW RIFLE". Personally I tend to fall in the third category. Only firearms I buy that fit the second category are mainly collectable rifles that will be shot but not much. It's very rare I buy a rifle that fits the first category.
And you are right, the B-14R has hijacked one slice of the pizza and added their own toppings. <----- Yeah, just made that up.
Thank you and everyone here for all you do to provide info to people like me.
I actually fall into your 1st category. I really really want to be involved with PRS type stuff, but I have no experience and no easy way to shoot at longer distances. I would like a .22 that will allow me to learn some fundamentals, shoot more often (at not match grade, centerfire prices) and “compete” in whatever rimfire matches I can find / attend in Mass / New Hampshire
I originally had a PRS build / order in mind, it I am just going to be really really frustrated at $1.50 a trigger pull, shooting at a 100 yard range and will end up never shooting the rifle.
2020 is the year of the .22 for me - I want to shoot more rounds of ammo this year than I ever had in my life and work on building some real skills
If I bought the minimum amount of materials I could to make the bolt handle I made it would cost about $125. I have a ton of mold making materials in my shop already that were already paid for which was the only reason I did it. I used a metal filled urethane which was pretty strong. That said, when I was ready to switch out the knob with a Steel/aluminum one I just smacked it with a hammer and shattered it then drilled out the bolt to Get to the head of the fastener.
I would try soaking the bolt handle over night in some PB blaster. It sounds like quite a few guys have had good luck with that. If that doesn’t work then I would try the heat route.
I would try soaking the bolt handle over night in some PB blaster. It sounds like quite a few guys have had good luck with that. If that doesn’t work then I would try the heat route.
Last edited:
Can’t speak to many of your questions, but regarding optics, you may want to take a look at the Vortex Diamondback Tactical 6-24x50. You can get them on B&H Photo for $299 right now. I’ve got one on my T1x and absolutely love it. Just my 2 cents.
The utg 22 dovetail rings are great. I also think the diamondback is great too. Here's my base class set up.
I also bought the kydex cheek rest. It does require you to drill the stock but that's pretty easy to do.
Just shot my first ever NRL22 match with this T1X yesterday and it did pretty well. Got 2nd out of 8 base class shooters and like 7th overall out of 43. It helped that I was able to practice at the same range the day before using some of the barricade setups but not exact courses of fire to kinda see what shooting positions to expect. The gun did all the work. Sighting in at 50 it was grouping about 3/4" with 10 shots when I was doing my part just using CCI SV that I bought earlier that day from Wal-Mart. Shot so well, I went back and bought all they had. At 100, after figuring out my wind call, most were within 1-1.25". Good enough for NRL22 it seems as the only targets less than 1" seem to be 50 yds or closer.
Gun has less than 400 rnds through it and I've only shot Federal GMM, CCI SV and Bulk from Win/Federal. I'm pretty happy with the performance of the CCI SV, but I'll get a few boxes of some higher end ammo. Someone gave me a box of SK Standard Plus to try out (they were also shooting a T1X in a KRG Bravo). For the money, CCI SV seems to be doing the trick. Nice to be able to shoot the whole match for less than $7 worth of ammo.
My setup for NRL22 Base class was a stock T1X (added T3 vert grip), DIP 25 MOA Rail, Burris Signature rings, Vortex Diamondback Tactical 6-24, LoneStar Scope Level, a cheap Caldwell bipod and a SilenerCo Spectre II. It seems running with the silencer helped groups at 100yds a little bit and helped mitigate the already unsubstantial recoil. Only major issues were getting a good sight picture quickly. I need some sort of cheek riser to be able to just lay my head on the rifle and get a sight picture. Other thing that may have helped was having a slightly longer LOP. I'll probably get the T3 buttpad from Beretta. Debating if I should get the stock spacers from Beretta as well. Anyone order those? How thick are the spacers? Anyone that's used the beaver-tail fore-end have any issues fitting bipod with that or have it help in a match? May pick one of those up as well.
Also, for anyone interested, I got to put a few rounds through a B-14R someone had there. It's a very nice action, good weight, good feel and is just like my full sized HMR. I only shot a few rounds, and I'm not sure what ammo was being used, but the Tikka seemed to do just as well at 50 yds. Hard to make a call of which is better in 5 shots, but as for the feel of it, it'll likely be my next 22lr as my skills progress.
Gun has less than 400 rnds through it and I've only shot Federal GMM, CCI SV and Bulk from Win/Federal. I'm pretty happy with the performance of the CCI SV, but I'll get a few boxes of some higher end ammo. Someone gave me a box of SK Standard Plus to try out (they were also shooting a T1X in a KRG Bravo). For the money, CCI SV seems to be doing the trick. Nice to be able to shoot the whole match for less than $7 worth of ammo.
My setup for NRL22 Base class was a stock T1X (added T3 vert grip), DIP 25 MOA Rail, Burris Signature rings, Vortex Diamondback Tactical 6-24, LoneStar Scope Level, a cheap Caldwell bipod and a SilenerCo Spectre II. It seems running with the silencer helped groups at 100yds a little bit and helped mitigate the already unsubstantial recoil. Only major issues were getting a good sight picture quickly. I need some sort of cheek riser to be able to just lay my head on the rifle and get a sight picture. Other thing that may have helped was having a slightly longer LOP. I'll probably get the T3 buttpad from Beretta. Debating if I should get the stock spacers from Beretta as well. Anyone order those? How thick are the spacers? Anyone that's used the beaver-tail fore-end have any issues fitting bipod with that or have it help in a match? May pick one of those up as well.
Also, for anyone interested, I got to put a few rounds through a B-14R someone had there. It's a very nice action, good weight, good feel and is just like my full sized HMR. I only shot a few rounds, and I'm not sure what ammo was being used, but the Tikka seemed to do just as well at 50 yds. Hard to make a call of which is better in 5 shots, but as for the feel of it, it'll likely be my next 22lr as my skills progress.
Similar threads
Accessories
Damaged MPA chassis
