Tikka T1X
- Thread starter jbell
- Start date
I had the same problem at the last NRL22 event. I love the trigger weight as it is (stock spring and screw backed all the way out) but had a few trigger non resets and a slam fire when working the bolt quickly under time pressure. No bueno!
I placed a bit of gun oil onto the bolt and the top of the sear (removed the bolt and applied it from there) and it made the problem go away....not sure why or for how long.....
I only had a few dozen rounds down range since the last cleaning....
What is a better solution to this problem?
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Sterk
Order directly from @cannoncrossfire or from here: https://www.deltatactical.com.au/index.php?route=product/manufacturer/info&manufacturer_id=44
Get the bolt shroud too when ordering.
For those that are shooting the .22lr version, what ballistics calculator/table do you use? I have mine and center-x. I need to get more trigger time but as I take it out past 100 yards I’d like to be able to estimate the drop reliably. I have the built in version with my Kestrel 5700 elite but I don’t see bullet selection for .22lr.
I did have this rifle at 162 yards this past weekend and was shooting around 3” groups with 3-5mph winds from the 5 o’clock direction. Love this thing!
For those with the .17hmr and the .22lr, which do you like better? Is the 17hmr worth it? Without reading all 70 pages can somebody shortcut me a link or two to the groups 17HMR is shooting?
Lastly, I have a Bravo Chassis on order. I put a victor cheek riser on my factory T1. I can’t seem to get comfortable in prone position. Hoping the Bravo chassis will help.
I am planning on spending more time behind my rimfires as the 1000y range in the area was closed down due to lawsuits and people building housing nearby. With 300 yards as the max range I have access to during a normal week it seems like rimfire will be more challenging day-to-day.
I did have this rifle at 162 yards this past weekend and was shooting around 3” groups with 3-5mph winds from the 5 o’clock direction. Love this thing!
For those with the .17hmr and the .22lr, which do you like better? Is the 17hmr worth it? Without reading all 70 pages can somebody shortcut me a link or two to the groups 17HMR is shooting?
Lastly, I have a Bravo Chassis on order. I put a victor cheek riser on my factory T1. I can’t seem to get comfortable in prone position. Hoping the Bravo chassis will help.
I am planning on spending more time behind my rimfires as the 1000y range in the area was closed down due to lawsuits and people building housing nearby. With 300 yards as the max range I have access to during a normal week it seems like rimfire will be more challenging day-to-day.
I just ordered a Vudoo - bday gift for my upcoming birthday! I'm still reluctant to sell my Tikka as it's put me in the top 3 (1st place once) of my last 5 competitions, but will probably need to sell it to recoup some of the costs.
Excited to play with a Vudoo though!
Excited to play with a Vudoo though!
I ordered a Vudoo as well but I’m keeping one of my two Tikkas. I’m going to sell the T1x I have in the Bravo and keep the one I have in the MPA. I still don’t know which rifle I will compete with though. My tikka in the MPA will be a hard rifle to outshoot even with a Vudoo. I guess we will see....
I have the Timney in my T3X, haven't swapped it to the T1X yet. I like it, if you like 2-stages. If you can get one for $180 it's a pretty good deal.
Any one know the chamber Lothar Walther is using on their t1x barrels? Or an accuracy report?
Or if either IBI or Lothar have gotten all the kinks out? Sounds like those who got the IBI got some pretty stellar accuracy, but also heard of a number of barrel returns and grinding in feed ramps and trips to gunsmith, etc...
Or if either IBI or Lothar have gotten all the kinks out? Sounds like those who got the IBI got some pretty stellar accuracy, but also heard of a number of barrel returns and grinding in feed ramps and trips to gunsmith, etc...
IBI has their stuff worked out, they've switched reamers though and I haven't tested their new reamers. You can buy their barrel threaded at Brownell's now.
Any idea which chamber they’re doing?
Finally ordered up a T1x and don’t plan on changing barrels anytime soon but it’s good to know what’s available. I’ll have to check Brownell’s.
From what I’ve read your IBI was shooting pretty damn well, did you ever get the feed issues solved to your satisfaction?
Finally ordered up a T1x and don’t plan on changing barrels anytime soon but it’s good to know what’s available. I’ll have to check Brownell’s.
From what I’ve read your IBI was shooting pretty damn well, did you ever get the feed issues solved to your satisfaction?
They're switching to the Calfee IV reamer. If you order from them directly you can specify which reamer you want.
Win52D = Shoots amazing - works with all sorts of ammo. Super tight match chamber = harder to load rounds.
Eley EPS = Shoots amazing - works with less types of ammo = feeds great, extracts so so, due to tight chamber.
Calfee II - Straight chamber, not tapered, Calfee does know his stuff though, so I wouldn't expect anything bad.
Calfee IV - Straight chamber, not tapered. Larger than Calfee II. .2265 diameter, .6 in length before the engraving starts happening.
I ended up having my barrel re-reamed with Eley EPS ontop of the Win52D. So it's a hybrid. It feeds fantastic. Shoots slightly larger groups than it shot when it was Win52D. Averaging in the .85" 6x5 instead of the .7"s at 100 yards.
Any idea why they’re switching I’m also interested in getting one. Did you have to change anything else besides having the barrel re-reamed?
Thanks for taking the time to reply! .7 or .85 are both fantastic for a 22.
Personally I’ll be happy with a gun that shoots moa at this point.. (for now at least)
Best luck with the new Vudoo, more than a little jealous.
Personally I’ll be happy with a gun that shoots moa at this point.. (for now at least)
Best luck with the new Vudoo, more than a little jealous.
That’s my other dilemma do I keep spending money on the tikka or start saving money for the vudoo.
I sold the Tikka to my shooting buddy.. I felt a little sad selling it. It did take some time tweaking it to get it perfect, but once it's dialed in, it shoots with the best of them. The 60 degree + Sterk Swept Back Handle I think is just fantastic. I'll be missing that short throw on the Vudoo. I almost missed it enough to go for the Ultimatum Deuce instead, but that's still an unproven rifle.
Tikka + Bravo hold their values well. Accessories don't. Factory Tikka should shoot well, I was shooting in the .7's with Eley Tenex in a factory Tikka.
Nope. And re-reaming it was my choice to get slightly larger groups to have it feed better. I'd just order one from Brownell's. I think if it doesn't work out, you can return it to them?
two different beasts.. 500 for rifle 315 for barrel, another 400ish for Bravo and your at 12-1300 for a pretty damn nice gun.
that’s what the Vudoo action goes for.. so can’t really compare them.
I won’t have 3k for a gun till after my kids are grown and out of the house so the Tikka fits my current needs, and I like that it’s a gun that can be upgraded over time as I have the funds.
Your gun with a stock barrel sounds almost like my build. Thanks for the reply I will have to try out some tenex.
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I agree with you 100%. I should probably just try out the barrel and go from there. Mine shoots sk long range just a hair over 1 moa at 100yd. I’m a little worried about feeding/cycling issues if I go with a different barrel.
I see myself still buying a vudoo eventually.
This was mine -
I have my Bravo and that custom Wiebad Mini Stock Pad on sale in the PX right now. I sold my Tikka in the ACC today.
Here all the 5 shot groups I have done with my Tikka in a factory barrel - as a new shooter too. So every group from the group I first shot the rifle is here... groups significantly shrunk as I became a better shooter.
For those with the factory barrel considering on buying a new barrel, first thing you can do if you are already willing to take off your factory barrel is to re-headspace it. Headspace it to the ammo you want to shoot and see if it gets better. I've seen changes of a good 20% in groups from just headspacing.
Cheapest way to do this is to get the barrel loose (unscrew it, and heat gun the epoxy/glue out so the barrel can move. Put the ammo you want to shoot into the barrel. Please be safe and do this safely pointing the gun at a berm. Push the barrel in more towards the bolt. Now tighten up the screws so that it takes effort to move the barrel and it's not just sliding around. Now push the bolt closed, and cam it down. As you cam the bolt down, the barrel should be pushed forward. This perfectly headspaces it to the ammo you are wanting to shoot. Tighten the barrel screws down.
This was much more effective then trying to push the barrel down into a already closed bolt because as you are tightening the screws, the headspacing widens up. So having the barrel pushed in further with the screws loosely hand tight so that the only way the barrel can move is by camming the bolt down will ensure a nice tight headspace.
Cheapest way to do this is to get the barrel loose (unscrew it, and heat gun the epoxy/glue out so the barrel can move. Put the ammo you want to shoot into the barrel. Please be safe and do this safely pointing the gun at a berm. Push the barrel in more towards the bolt. Now tighten up the screws so that it takes effort to move the barrel and it's not just sliding around. Now push the bolt closed, and cam it down. As you cam the bolt down, the barrel should be pushed forward. This perfectly headspaces it to the ammo you are wanting to shoot. Tighten the barrel screws down.
This was much more effective then trying to push the barrel down into a already closed bolt because as you are tightening the screws, the headspacing widens up. So having the barrel pushed in further with the screws loosely hand tight so that the only way the barrel can move is by camming the bolt down will ensure a nice tight headspace.
I have it set to .5lb 1st stage, and .5 lb 2nd stage, so 1lb total.
So the Timney will go below the advertised weight of 1 lb for the 2nd stage? I may be interested if so. Also where did you get the check pad shown on your T1x?
Wiebad Mini Stock Pad
Mini Stock Pad | WieBad Gear
wiebad.com
I'll get my trigger weight tester just to confirm when I get a chance. Instructions do allow you to adjust a whole lot of stuff - https://store-45f4e81vr4.mybigcomme... Tikka T3 Installation Instructions Final.pdf
Factory was 1.5lbs, and I lowered it.
I just measured and confirmed it is set at 1lb total break.
The timney does not play well with the T1x.
The bolt lift is too low and the bottom of the bolt handle contacts the top of the safety lever thumb plate.
With the Timney pulled back into the safe position it raises the thumb plate even higher just like it does on the factory trigger and if you pull the bolt back hard enough to get it over the plate it will grab and push the safety off when you run the bolt forward.
It would do the same thing on the factory trigger if it wasn't for the bolt locking pin that stops it from being cycled when the safety is on.
There might be some ways to alter it but after trying it and taking it back off I have not had the time to revisit it to see.
Thanks, good to be back. I will have to control my emotions and have better manners going forward.
I know what you mean. If I lost the hide I might throw my phone away. On my Ps and Qs also.
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