Tikka T1X
- Thread starter jbell
- Start date
I did both to mine and my son's girlfriend's gun. I don't know if it made it more accurate but it made the for end "stiffer" and the added weight made for a more stable shooting platform.
Mike
P.S. It can't hurt,,,,,,Right
Mike
P.S. It can't hurt,,,,,,Right
Lol... you covered all the possibilities with this statement and no information was gained
Yea you are right. Statement made is still true though, hopefully here is some info to gain:
Your rifle barrel with nothing on it is all ready tuned for a distance, weather it is a distance you want to utilize is luck of the draw. Put anything else on the barrel like a brake, flash hider, suppressor or tuner and now you have changed it's harmonics--maybe a lot or maybe a little, but it has changed how your barrel is going to shoot. Let's see if I can explain how using a tuner (or any weight) can help us out.
Tuning process and goals are hard to explain as there are pluses and minus's in using them. You are changing (tuning) waveform harmonics on how the barrel reacts when a bullet is fired from it by moving a static weight around a little bit at the muzzle. Your barrel vibrates when you shoot it. The idea is to get a slower bullet to exit when the barrel is pointing slightly up and have the same POI of a faster bullet that leaves the barrel when it is pointed straight forward. It's the rim-fire version of ladder testing different weight powder load charges in center-fire.
Everyone thinks they will magically make fantastic tiny groups at all distances when the reality is that you are going to positively affect targets close to the tuned range (positive compensation node) and negatively affect targets further away from the tuned range. For a theoretical quick example, say you tune perfectly for 100 yards: targets from 80-120 yards benefit from the tune, targets from 60-70 and 130-140 receive no benefit and targets from 30-50 and 150-170 are negatively affected. As you go further out then you start coming back into positive tune again with another positive node at 210 and so forth.
Every barrel is different with longer thinner barrels reacting better (more vibration nodes) than short fat barrels. With the tikka's barrel profile I'm pretty positive it will have decent affect with a tuner. I don't have one installed yet on the 20" T1x I own, yet. Good lathe project to teach the new-hires at the shop some CNC experience.
Another couple of downsides to tuners is that it isn't going to make crappy or mediocre ammo into super accurate match winning wonder bullets. They work best with ammo that get SD's of 15 to 10 FPS or less. Golden bullets and thunderturds with an ES over 100 FPS are still going to suck. Also, your tuning correction is going to be around .2" at 50 yards and 3/8" of an inch at 100 yards for a 1040-1060 FPS correction IIRC. For a bench-rest shooter that is significant, for a field steel shooter maybe not so much.
Your rifle barrel with nothing on it is all ready tuned for a distance, weather it is a distance you want to utilize is luck of the draw. Put anything else on the barrel like a brake, flash hider, suppressor or tuner and now you have changed it's harmonics--maybe a lot or maybe a little, but it has changed how your barrel is going to shoot. Let's see if I can explain how using a tuner (or any weight) can help us out.
Tuning process and goals are hard to explain as there are pluses and minus's in using them. You are changing (tuning) waveform harmonics on how the barrel reacts when a bullet is fired from it by moving a static weight around a little bit at the muzzle. Your barrel vibrates when you shoot it. The idea is to get a slower bullet to exit when the barrel is pointing slightly up and have the same POI of a faster bullet that leaves the barrel when it is pointed straight forward. It's the rim-fire version of ladder testing different weight powder load charges in center-fire.
Everyone thinks they will magically make fantastic tiny groups at all distances when the reality is that you are going to positively affect targets close to the tuned range (positive compensation node) and negatively affect targets further away from the tuned range. For a theoretical quick example, say you tune perfectly for 100 yards: targets from 80-120 yards benefit from the tune, targets from 60-70 and 130-140 receive no benefit and targets from 30-50 and 150-170 are negatively affected. As you go further out then you start coming back into positive tune again with another positive node at 210 and so forth.
Every barrel is different with longer thinner barrels reacting better (more vibration nodes) than short fat barrels. With the tikka's barrel profile I'm pretty positive it will have decent affect with a tuner. I don't have one installed yet on the 20" T1x I own, yet. Good lathe project to teach the new-hires at the shop some CNC experience.
Another couple of downsides to tuners is that it isn't going to make crappy or mediocre ammo into super accurate match winning wonder bullets. They work best with ammo that get SD's of 15 to 10 FPS or less. Golden bullets and thunderturds with an ES over 100 FPS are still going to suck. Also, your tuning correction is going to be around .2" at 50 yards and 3/8" of an inch at 100 yards for a 1040-1060 FPS correction IIRC. For a bench-rest shooter that is significant, for a field steel shooter maybe not so much.
Finnally got my T1x into a chassis .
This Oryx is for a T3x centerfire because there are no T1x Oryx chassis in Australia .
Got some advice from on the forum here about the mods required to make it work and got it put together yesterday .
I will shoot it on the weekend to see how it goes .
This Oryx is for a T3x centerfire because there are no T1x Oryx chassis in Australia .
Got some advice from on the forum here about the mods required to make it work and got it put together yesterday .
I will shoot it on the weekend to see how it goes .
Took a trip to the Lapua rim fire test center in Ohio. Had a great time chatting with Luke and testing our 3 x T1x rifles. They still did not have a T1x test fixture and needed to clamp them into a vise. No worries as they all tested fine. Temp outside was in the high 20’s so the tunnel temp was also on the very cold side. Interesting in that all 3 favored a different lot of ammo. My rifle ended up liking a lot of CenterX with my wife’s gun shooting a lot of Midas the best. The 3rd T1x also like a diff lot of Midas. Very good time. pics of my rifle as configured and then testing and then the target of the lot I ordered. The CenterX I had been shooting to date did not perform very well in testing. ( bought blindly ).
Considering my first precision .22 - thoughts, opinions and bashing wanted!
Is the tikka a better option than the B14? I know it is probably more complicated with chassis but if it is smoother and a better shooter that is easily the way to go.
I think I want the tikka to match other tikka rifle I have.
Mostly just for fun. Have not shot a match yet either in .22 or big gun. But I shoot at a PRS type range about 1 time a month and enjoy shooting off stage items for fun.
Tikka Plan:
I have CTR 6.5 in bravo /w W3 butt stock. Was thinking of staying with tikka for the t1x. Buy the dedicated bravo for it. Maybe over time switch to W3 butt stock to match my other rifle. Will not shoot it in factory stock most likely.
Cons seem to be magazine is not AICS pattern
Changing barrel if you want
Dedicated t1x chassis
Bergara:
Buy and shoot as is. I have no other rem 700 footprint items.
cons no 20” barrel
Con no mix and match with current KRG
Is the tikka a better option than the B14? I know it is probably more complicated with chassis but if it is smoother and a better shooter that is easily the way to go.
I think I want the tikka to match other tikka rifle I have.
Mostly just for fun. Have not shot a match yet either in .22 or big gun. But I shoot at a PRS type range about 1 time a month and enjoy shooting off stage items for fun.
Tikka Plan:
I have CTR 6.5 in bravo /w W3 butt stock. Was thinking of staying with tikka for the t1x. Buy the dedicated bravo for it. Maybe over time switch to W3 butt stock to match my other rifle. Will not shoot it in factory stock most likely.
Cons seem to be magazine is not AICS pattern
Changing barrel if you want
Dedicated t1x chassis
Bergara:
Buy and shoot as is. I have no other rem 700 footprint items.
cons no 20” barrel
Con no mix and match with current KRG
I think the T1x makes the most sense given you are already shooting tikka. Generally it can go in other tikka chassis and stocks. I put my sons in a t3x mdt chassis. The T1x mags are good and work in whatever chassis you end up with so no issues there. I also considered the begera but reading through this thread and the one for the b14 it seemed that the tikka is less trouble prone and more likely to be accurate out of the box.
What is the going rate for the T1x MTR with the 20" barrel in .22LR?
I can find big box store pricing of $530 but all the small shops are out of stock. I know even a year ago it seemed like these were listed over 500 but where actually selling for mid 400s?
I can find big box store pricing of $530 but all the small shops are out of stock. I know even a year ago it seemed like these were listed over 500 but where actually selling for mid 400s?
I bought mine summer 2019 for $468 at Bass Pro, which was SRP at the time. By early 2020 SRP had gone up to about $498. You’re right though, looks like the going rate is about $530 now for the right handed models
I have had my tikka t1x for about 3 years now. I put it in a keg bravo and generally wears a rugged oculus silencer. Couple observations and questions.
The wolf match and SK standard velocity have printed some extremely impressive groups, I have tried a bunch and I keep coming back to these as the most consistent. For 22 I tend to do 10 shot groups and it's rare to get all 10 sub moa at 100 yards but I have a few. I have many groups with 7-8 shots in a half inch at 100 yards with shots 9-10 opening it up to an inch or just above it.
I really haven't cleaned the bore. Should I? Seems to be getting more accurate, if anything, the more I shoot it.
I broke and lost the magazine release spring. Went to home depot and bought a box of compression springs and found one that does the job but it doesn't feel robust or reliable. Can't find any place online that carries just the OEM spring. Anybody have a clue or know of a robust fix? Thanks
The wolf match and SK standard velocity have printed some extremely impressive groups, I have tried a bunch and I keep coming back to these as the most consistent. For 22 I tend to do 10 shot groups and it's rare to get all 10 sub moa at 100 yards but I have a few. I have many groups with 7-8 shots in a half inch at 100 yards with shots 9-10 opening it up to an inch or just above it.
I really haven't cleaned the bore. Should I? Seems to be getting more accurate, if anything, the more I shoot it.
I broke and lost the magazine release spring. Went to home depot and bought a box of compression springs and found one that does the job but it doesn't feel robust or reliable. Can't find any place online that carries just the OEM spring. Anybody have a clue or know of a robust fix? Thanks
I've had my Tikka T1X for about a year and love it. Accuracy is incredible for the price point with an excellent trigger. Held off on a KRG Bravo until this week. Have a FDE coming Monday along with a short ARCA rail adapter for my tripod. I think it'll make my Tikka feel so much better. I do have the T3 butt pad for added LOP and vertical grip along with a victor co cheek riser, but just think the Bravo will be way more comfortable shooting. Mine will be topped off with my Midas Tac 4-16x44 as soon as I get my Ares ETR UHD 3-18x50 for my AAA EVOL airgun which it currently resides on.
Might look into a better bolt setup for it though just not sure which direction to go.
Might look into a better bolt setup for it though just not sure which direction to go.
Look like mine. A T1x in a KRG Bravo stock. HVHA thread protector, HVHA 20 MOA picatinny rail, HVHA bolt shroud, HVHA trigger kit, Sterk bolt handle, Anarchy Outdoor mag extended release and throw levers for scope, KRG arca rail with Area 419 arca clamp, Atlas PSR and monopod, Athlon midas tac 4-16x44 with sinclair bubble level, Hardy rimfire moderator. Used for NRL matchs up to 350 yards
At least $600 or more. Kicking myself for not picking one up for under $450 a few months ago.
i found mine recently on GB for $500. I was watching for awhile too. They’ll pop up.
New T1x owner needs help.
I just got my new t1x home and the bolt release button falls out. Inside the rifle I hear rattling and got out the release spring and pin as pictured.
Question: since it's one day old should I attempt to fix this or let the LGS handle it. Will I void the warranty if I strip the rifle?
Thing is it's a four day weekend here and the LGS wont open until Tuesday and I really want to shoot it this weekend.
Easy fix or wait for the pros?
Thx
I just got my new t1x home and the bolt release button falls out. Inside the rifle I hear rattling and got out the release spring and pin as pictured.
Question: since it's one day old should I attempt to fix this or let the LGS handle it. Will I void the warranty if I strip the rifle?
Thing is it's a four day weekend here and the LGS wont open until Tuesday and I really want to shoot it this weekend.
Easy fix or wait for the pros?
Thx
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First, congrats on buying a t1x! sucks to have issues, but hopefully will get quickly adressed.
I don't doubt that LGS or TiKKA will fix this in short order, but personally I would return it to the LGS to deal with since its failure on first day. The other option of course is to RTFM -- Tikka's manual is online if you google it--but I don't personally know the details of the bolt release so will leave that to the experts.
Just my $0,02.
For those right brainers out there, Europtics says there still is no word on a delivery time from Tikka to get them here state side. 
I have been looking for a Tikka T1 22rf and they don't exist. But have found several CZ Royals and one with the Boyd's adj stock.
Are all the 457 going to be the same action with adjustable trigger and the same quality barrel? Will the CZ perform as well out of the box as the Tikka? They are about $100 more money.
Or , should I cool my heels and wait for a Tikka?
Bill
Are all the 457 going to be the same action with adjustable trigger and the same quality barrel? Will the CZ perform as well out of the box as the Tikka? They are about $100 more money.
Or , should I cool my heels and wait for a Tikka?
Bill
You're in a Tikka thread. What do you think the response is going to be? Wait. They will be around again.
I never removed the bolt stop from my T1x but have taken them off both my T3x and from the picture you posted they look the same. It’s just a friction/pressure fit.
Put the spring in, then hold it while you place the bolt stop in place. And finally slide the pin in. That’s it.... no tools needed
Looks like they have them up now. I'm gonna try them out. https://www.mkmachining.com/product/tikka-t1x-22lr-4-extension/
Please post a few pics of it in the rifle when you get it.
I'm collecting my tikka t1x and bravo chassis next week and I may order one as well.
Will do. I wish they would have posted pics in a rifle to show what it looks like but it should be better than it is now. I also have mine in a KRG Bravo so it'll give you exactly what it'd look like
Here's what they look like, how about that print quality?
I took a look this morning at mine with OEM mag in, and I think it will fit as long as the width is the same as the OEM portion in the pic (which appears to be). This part sits inside the mag well of the krg. I think these will be awesome if they fit, not just because of the extra capacity, but in a krg setup there's almost zero purchase to grab, so these will give us something similar to an aics mag.
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I will say that my main tester has surpassed 1000 rounds on the extension, he said the spring will need to be stretched after many rounds, or the extension made into a +2 or +3 for indefinite function. Just fyi!
I wouldn't mind if it still only held 10 rounds. It will look better and handle better than the original mag bottom.
Maybe you could add a removable filler that would keep it at 10 rounds so there would be no need to stretch the spring.
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got mine today, seems the spring needs to be stretched from the start. How would you propose making the extension less capacity, just stick some cardboard in it or something?
You could make a spacer, cardboard would work, wood, trimmed plastic, anything.
What's odd to me is the two mags we had in house had "enough" tension at +4 rounds, stretching wasn't needed and that tester didn't need to do anything until around the 1000rd mark.
I wonder if the springs aren't 100% consistent in length or wire diameter, although that would be odd.
I do suppose we could make little spacers that drop down inside the extension to alter capacity, rather than make a whole different model?
Here’s a pic sxs of oem and the extender.
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Hello
Read this, it will help you not to make a mistake on your Tikka T1x
https://www.snipershide.com/shootin...tdoors-scope-base-rail-for-tikka-t1x.7071904/
Regards.
Read this, it will help you not to make a mistake on your Tikka T1x
https://www.snipershide.com/shootin...tdoors-scope-base-rail-for-tikka-t1x.7071904/
Regards.
Oh yeah that is definitely different than the mags we had sent to us. I did +4 because that was the max that allowed for sufficient spring pressure to hold 1rd in.
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