Keep an eye out for those sales. I should have grabbed a few more mags just to have them.
-
Having trouble using the site?
Contact support
Tikka T1X
- Thread starter jbell
- Start date
FYI. I work in the industry and at least two wholesalers do not even have 22 lr mags in their systems. I grabbed a couple extra last month from one that had them but are out now.
Anyone know the weight difference between running their T1x in the factory stock vs going to the bravo?
Ive been shooting in my local PRS with the factory stock but just recently got the bravo for it. Anyone know if its such a big weight difference?
We have a free standing shoot at 20/40/60/80/100 on 2" plates. The factory stock did me well, but I hear great things about the ergo on the bravo so just wondering if its that much better.
Wish I could simply test the rifle out in both frames, but not with my rifle atm (flight attendant stateside)
Ive been shooting in my local PRS with the factory stock but just recently got the bravo for it. Anyone know if its such a big weight difference?
We have a free standing shoot at 20/40/60/80/100 on 2" plates. The factory stock did me well, but I hear great things about the ergo on the bravo so just wondering if its that much better.
Wish I could simply test the rifle out in both frames, but not with my rifle atm (flight attendant stateside)
The Brovo is 3 lbs. I did the same switch, not a big difference in weight to me, but fits a ton better.
Thanks! This is the reply I was looking for haha. Just wondered if it’ll affect my standing freehand shooting.
I just picked up my T1X and purchase the KALIXTEKNIK CR1 Cheek riser to go with it. I review the various video on YouTube, but never notices the stock cavity to the T1X has any foam in it. As matter of fact, the install video for the KALIXTEKNIK CR1 is hollow. Is the form a recent update from Tikka?
Anyone have any recommendations on cleaning process and gear for their tikkas. Haven’t cleaned mine. Just pull a dry bore snake every 500rds. Been scared to clean but guess I should do it the proper way
Some people clean, some do not.
Depends also of ammo and barrel.
Buy dewey stick that has enough length and nylon brushes. Deweys are the best tbh.
I use one worn out brush with patches, it works really well.
Buy the bore tech rimfire solution to best get rid of lead in the barrel. You will need to stroke the barrel every 5-15 minutes when it has chewed layer of it. No need to apply lots of it either. I usually wet the brush with 2-3 drops and then add few drops straight to barrel.
1. Push 1-3 patches to get most of the gunk
2. Start cleaning.
You will create your own way of cleaning. Just make deliberate movements. The dewey rod pretty much protects your barrel from all harm, but still.
Let the chemicals do the work. You just remove the layer the chemicals break loose and then let them continue do the job.
Depends also of ammo and barrel.
Buy dewey stick that has enough length and nylon brushes. Deweys are the best tbh.
I use one worn out brush with patches, it works really well.
Buy the bore tech rimfire solution to best get rid of lead in the barrel. You will need to stroke the barrel every 5-15 minutes when it has chewed layer of it. No need to apply lots of it either. I usually wet the brush with 2-3 drops and then add few drops straight to barrel.
1. Push 1-3 patches to get most of the gunk
2. Start cleaning.
You will create your own way of cleaning. Just make deliberate movements. The dewey rod pretty much protects your barrel from all harm, but still.
Let the chemicals do the work. You just remove the layer the chemicals break loose and then let them continue do the job.
Any recommendations on rod diameter?
Should I go with the .22 or .17? I read some people say .22 is pretty tight so was wondering if I should step down
If I remember right, for anschutz and vostok the .22 is too big. For my sako barrel it is good. I have nice rifling marks on my rod to remind me of that (luckily just the plastic part, no other damage was done)
I have both .17 and 22, I have used the .17 only for HMR.
The 22 is good since you can use it to clean up to .30 barrels, I cleaned quite easily my friends 6.5 by just putting more patches (simple car washing/buffing cloth I buy from moto store around here) around the brush. .30 caliber is strecthing it far, I do not recommend it.
In short, take the .22, since you will own .223 or some other similar caliber anyways at some point.
.17HMR is quite niche caliber, I doubt you end up getting one unless specific need arises. (For me .223 is cheaper, more accurate, more reliable, more consistent, more powerful, semiautomatic, just better all ways)
I have both .17 and 22, I have used the .17 only for HMR.
The 22 is good since you can use it to clean up to .30 barrels, I cleaned quite easily my friends 6.5 by just putting more patches (simple car washing/buffing cloth I buy from moto store around here) around the brush. .30 caliber is strecthing it far, I do not recommend it.
In short, take the .22, since you will own .223 or some other similar caliber anyways at some point.
.17HMR is quite niche caliber, I doubt you end up getting one unless specific need arises. (For me .223 is cheaper, more accurate, more reliable, more consistent, more powerful, semiautomatic, just better all ways)
There isn't really a "proper" way, per se. There are probably more opinions on how to clean rifles than there are rifles. I based my opinions on this article, written by a guy who worked at Vudoo. https://www.thetruthaboutguns.com/a-guide-to-22lr-barrel-care-for-the-precision-rimfire-shooter/
I use a 38" Dewey .20 nylon-coated rod. They have an adapter (the 17A adapter) that lets you use full-size cleaning jags with it. I use a .22 Parker-Hale jag for the barrel and occasionally a nylon bristle brush for the chamber to break up carbon rings, also from Dewey. The only cleaner I use is Bore Tech C4 Carbon Remover, not their rimfire blend. From the article, C4 removes carbon buildup; the rimfire blend removes both carbon and lead. Other solvents (CLR, Hoppes #9) also remove lead, so I stick with C4. The rumor is that lead fouling helps season the barrel, and it's worked so far. For lube I use Bore Tech Friction Guard XP.
Thanks! You just answered all my underlying questions on rod length, diameter, solvent, and tip size lol
Another question if anyone can answer.
Will this cheek riser work for a T1x?
Matthews fabrication check riser .125”
I know these are somewhat universal but just wanted to make sure if anyone uses this or recommends something similar. Been using a neoprene slip on and it annoys me because it keeps sliding. Could simply wrap tape but rather have something that looks nicer and more permanent. Any thoughts and suggestions appreciated
Will this cheek riser work for a T1x?
Matthews fabrication check riser .125”
I know these are somewhat universal but just wanted to make sure if anyone uses this or recommends something similar. Been using a neoprene slip on and it annoys me because it keeps sliding. Could simply wrap tape but rather have something that looks nicer and more permanent. Any thoughts and suggestions appreciated
I’ve had a Victor Company Titan Cheek rest for a couple of years. Works perfectly, and almost looks stock.
If you plan on Shooting NRL22 you'll dread every support side stage with those knobs. Second vote for the Victor Company rest from me.
FWIW, just started seeing a few LH .22lr T1X's appearing on GB. Not any local LGS yet, tho. Ordered one, couldn't wait any longer after 2 years of waiting.
ETA: OK sorry, the 5 or 6 postings I saw as recently as yesterday--when I ordered--are all gone already. So currently we're back to none. But hopefully that small dump of them is the sign that they are starting to trickle into the US finally. It's the second time I've seen a small handful of them on GB in the last month.
Does anyone have extraction issues with SK rounds? Tested both Standard + and Rifle match but seems like they both get caught up in the chamber and doesn’t extract.
It’s like the round is tight that I’d need a small Allen key to pop the bullet out. It’s pretty snug in there that some force is required.
Was thinking there was a carbon ring holding it up but I cleaned the gun yesterday. So still not sure as to why this hangs up. However with CCI standards, everything runs fine
It’s like the round is tight that I’d need a small Allen key to pop the bullet out. It’s pretty snug in there that some force is required.
Was thinking there was a carbon ring holding it up but I cleaned the gun yesterday. So still not sure as to why this hangs up. However with CCI standards, everything runs fine
AFAIK thi is not a common issue with SK ammo. Have used SK for a couple years with no issues.
Funny I’m the opposite. What issues were you having with CCI?
When I run SK rounds it just seems like they get stuck in the chamber pretty tight. So not sure if it’s extractor either because it’s fine with CCI stuff
I have ejection issues with CCI occasionally. Honestly it could be operator error, and I do shoot CCI more than SK because I have a lot more of it so I'm more likely to see issues with it.
My son is shooting the T1x 20” and uses the Eley Club but has extraction problems. It’s not slinging it out so he digs it out before the next round can go in. It happens with a clean chamber or seasoned with same lot at least once per mag. Doesn’t mater if he slams the bolt or works it slow and smooth trying to find the sweet spot. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
Does anyone have a line on T1x magazine pouches and holders? I have five magazines and the ideal situation would be two 3-magazine pouches that could be sewn together.
Thanks,
Don
Thanks,
Don
A bit late, but I have one of those. They're great in theory but the way it works out on hollow poly stocks is that the stock just flexes when you tighten the screws. This means that the cheek rests aren't really locked in and can lower themselves if you really mash your cheek on the stock.
They probably work fine for wood stocks, or if you fill your poly stock with epoxy or something.
I used it for my T3x CTR rather than T1x but their stocks are pretty similar.
For my T1x, I think I might go for the Titan this time around. I'm a bit worried about the lack of more granular adjustment and the screw holes being uncomfortable though.
The KalixTeknik CR1 looks really good, but I figure that for that price I might as well just go all the way and get a KRG Bravo or something.
Last edited:
Works fine..I set my T1X @ 25oz...I wouldn't go any lower personally but the tensioner screw had room to lighten it even further..
Does anybody know if the top of the T1 action is lower then the T3 action?
I have a stock for a T3, that is just a bit to low, so not getting a good checkweld using lowest possible T3 scope mounts.
Then I though I could maybe get a T1x instead, IF the top of the dovetails are lower then T3 ones?
So.. bottom of action is similar, but what about top? Equal height or lower?
I have a stock for a T3, that is just a bit to low, so not getting a good checkweld using lowest possible T3 scope mounts.
Then I though I could maybe get a T1x instead, IF the top of the dovetails are lower then T3 ones?
So.. bottom of action is similar, but what about top? Equal height or lower?
Got a chance to zero the new T1x at an indoor range (local weather was not cooperating) and must admit that it does quite well.
To make NRL22 Base Class, the rifle is set up with the vertical grip and a Vortex Diamondback Tactical 6-24x50 on an Area419 30MOA rail. It seems to like the RWS Rifle Target (lot # 68SL9) which is good because I have 7600 rounds of that lot left – a lifetime of shooting this rifle. I haven’t weighed it yet, but it might be light enough to qualify as a CMP Rimfire “T” class rifle. It will make an awesome Appleseed rifle.
It put the first eight rounds after zeroing into .143” (.273 MOA) and then “Tommy Tactical” in the next lane decided to start firing his AR-10 (16” barrel, JP Recoil Eliminator Brake) as fast as he can, and I dropped the last two rounds. Since you own every round fired, my group (pattern?) opened to .452” (.862 MOA). Since this gun was built just to have a “fun” gun, I can accept that it is probably a sub-moa rifle.
I only have two “concerns”:
To make NRL22 Base Class, the rifle is set up with the vertical grip and a Vortex Diamondback Tactical 6-24x50 on an Area419 30MOA rail. It seems to like the RWS Rifle Target (lot # 68SL9) which is good because I have 7600 rounds of that lot left – a lifetime of shooting this rifle. I haven’t weighed it yet, but it might be light enough to qualify as a CMP Rimfire “T” class rifle. It will make an awesome Appleseed rifle.
It put the first eight rounds after zeroing into .143” (.273 MOA) and then “Tommy Tactical” in the next lane decided to start firing his AR-10 (16” barrel, JP Recoil Eliminator Brake) as fast as he can, and I dropped the last two rounds. Since you own every round fired, my group (pattern?) opened to .452” (.862 MOA). Since this gun was built just to have a “fun” gun, I can accept that it is probably a sub-moa rifle.
I only have two “concerns”:
- The magazine release definitely needs to be replaced with the Mountain Tactical extended version (ordered this morning).
- The trigger breaks cleanly – after the application of about 40 pounds of pressure. It’s not quite that bad but it is very noticeable. So it’s off to the gunsmith to see if he can get it down to about 1.0-1.25 pounds. It is clearly not as good as the Vudoo but it wasn’t designed to compete with a Vudoo.
Attachments
I'm not an expert but I think the T1x has the standard Tikka trigger. Should be pretty easily adjusted by you. Check YouTube. Work in small increments.
If you can't get it where you want in factory configuration with adjustments then YoDave springs are pretty often recommended. I've never installed one of those myself so I can't speak to difficulty or whether that technically takes you out of base class.
Enjoy!
If you can't get it where you want in factory configuration with adjustments then YoDave springs are pretty often recommended. I've never installed one of those myself so I can't speak to difficulty or whether that technically takes you out of base class.
Enjoy!
It’s a standard tikka trigger that can be turned down, to around 2lbs. A 10$ spring will lower it even more. No need to pay a gunsmith anything.
While an extended mag release would be nice in something like a chassis mag well, on the factory stock, having a release sticking out in front of the mag will make for some dropped mags when shooting off a front bag.
Just a couple things to keep in mind
Just a heads up on the mag catch: The T1x magazine is designed to no drop free (it has a secondary catch). To learn to remove it with a fluid motion, you need to practice a bit, then it is easy with the correct technique.
Which is loosely as follows: To Release mag, start with your indexex finger of off-hand. While your index finger is in/on mag catch, hold magazine with rest of your fingers (ie thumb and three fingers in oppostion). Then while holding mag, you are going to rotate your wrist toward the barrel...the whole mag should release easily while in firm control of your hand.
This is a totally different motion than the CTR where you push-drop the mag (ambi) and it falls to the ground.
But its works great, is fast, controlled, and the magazines lock up nicely and are well protected from barricades etc.
Which is loosely as follows: To Release mag, start with your indexex finger of off-hand. While your index finger is in/on mag catch, hold magazine with rest of your fingers (ie thumb and three fingers in oppostion). Then while holding mag, you are going to rotate your wrist toward the barrel...the whole mag should release easily while in firm control of your hand.
This is a totally different motion than the CTR where you push-drop the mag (ambi) and it falls to the ground.
But its works great, is fast, controlled, and the magazines lock up nicely and are well protected from barricades etc.
I took my wife’s barrel and action out of the stock. Turn the trigger spring screw out all the way touching the front screw. The. Turn back in 1/2 turn. I got it down to just above 2.0lb trigger pull. My wife love it and shoot 10 rounds 1 hole at 25 yd indoor range.
Like other said, a $10 yo David spring will get it below 1lb trigger pull. You can do it yourself.
We have no issue w the mag release. Just release and pull it out of the mag well in 1 action. Imho, t1x is a precision rifle and you really don’t need to swap out mag too fast anyway.
Enjoy your t1x.
Order the trigger spring from Mountain Tactical along with the magazine release.
Finally got all the parts for my T1x in.
Pretty much just a stock T1x with a $1600 optics setup (including mounts and base).
Razor LHT 4.5-22x50 FFP on PRI rings and Area 419 15 MOA base with a HS407c on top.
Didn't drop it into a chassis since I intended for this to be a sort of crossover rifle that's light enough for me to carry around, comfortably practice offhand, etc.
Originally intended it to be cheap but I don't really know any other lightweight (~22oz) FFP scope that also has low enough turrets to clear a top-mounted RDS reasonably.
Weighs about 7.7 lbs as pictured since the stock pack is unexpectedly heavy.
Pretty much just a stock T1x with a $1600 optics setup (including mounts and base).
Razor LHT 4.5-22x50 FFP on PRI rings and Area 419 15 MOA base with a HS407c on top.
Didn't drop it into a chassis since I intended for this to be a sort of crossover rifle that's light enough for me to carry around, comfortably practice offhand, etc.
Originally intended it to be cheap but I don't really know any other lightweight (~22oz) FFP scope that also has low enough turrets to clear a top-mounted RDS reasonably.
Weighs about 7.7 lbs as pictured since the stock pack is unexpectedly heavy.
I'd highly recommend adding the vertical grip, makes a much nicer rifle to shoot off a bipod and I find better for hunting purposes also.
The factory stock might not be as good a chassis for attaching a bunch of shit to but with the vertical grip and a normal sized butt pad (like on a T3) the stock is more than serviceable.
+1 on all this. the vertical grip and t3 recoil pad essentially fix the t1x stock for like $50. The oem stock is servicable. 22LR magwell is very short, and doesn't take up tons of room between the trigger guard and the bipod.
Last edited:
Anyone try out the gen 2 T1x? Curious if the rifle and barrel are just as accurate as before but with the ejector modification
