Tikka T3 Thread

All factory Tikka T3X models have only one bolt stop in these days.
Tikka T3 time, short ammo use action has shorter bolt move than they have now.
I have bought short T3 bolt stop for all my KRG chassis rifles, since that deam bolt is coming to my arm pit on the T3X model.
One way to save money in the factory.
That stopper dont cost much, and it is very nice improvment.
That Australian custom stopper is looking cool, you can fine tune that bolt movement.
So when did they start using one size bolt stop ?
 
I've shot the Hornaday 140s before and found them to be a good load but these 147s are something else entirely. We were dialed in at 5.4 mils of elevation, and a full 1 mil left for wind, they would just sail right in to exactly where you pointed them.

Confirmed!

I have the exact same rifle and am using the same bullet for LR.
Only the 139 Lapua Scenar is a tad more precise, but unfortunately has a much lower BC, so the 147 ELD is the way to go for me too.

At which velocity do you run yours?


Cheers,
Jay
 
Now I'm really wanting a W3 on my tikka. You, jaredCo, and reubinski are probably going to get some thanks from KRG for being the best salesmen of the year soon.

I wish :)
But i would not say no, if they would sponsor me one.
I have one Whiskey.
One Bravo, that has Whiskey rear stock, so it is like a Whiskey and one Bravo.
That Whiskey i just amazing chassis, i love it more and more, the more i use it.
And here in Finland, full alloy chassis is not that great in winter, your fingers are frozen when you handle a metal chassis, but in KRG has only full alloy backbone, and polymer panels, so it is very nice to handle in winter too.
Of course the Whiskey has alloy rear stock, but that does not make any problems, since every one is carrying guns on the fronend.

One Bravo chassis is on custom care, cerakote guys ;).
I can say that it might look good in a Finnish winter landscape, winter M05 pattern with cerakote is coming on that.

Winter M05 looks like this.

pBMhm8R.jpg
 
  • Like
Reactions: rothgyr
Confirmed!

I have the exact same rifle and am using the same bullet for LR.
Only the 139 Lapua Scenar is a tad more precise, but unfortunately has a much lower BC, so the 147 ELD is the way to go for me too.

At which velocity do you run yours?


Cheers,
Jay


Not sure, but I was using Hornaday factory loads out of the factory Tikka 24" CTR barrel. So I'm sure the data is floating around somewhere. I am curious to see what kind of accuracy the factory barrel is capable of with a good hand load, but I assume you'd get into the realm of diminishing returns pretty quickly with how well the factory stuff is already performing.
 
That's interesting,
You're the first person that I have seen that posted that the T3x only comes with long action bolt stops.

My 6.5 T3x CTR which I bought when they first came out with the 24" barrel came with the mid size bolt stop.

There is only 2 size bolt stop in the Tikka.
And what i have been looking, all the T3X rifles seem to be in the long stop version.
Like i had Tikka T3X TAC A1, it has the long bolt stop, and 100% sure that the bolt stop is long in your rifle too, since it use CTR magazine.
I have ordered from Sako, the factory that makes Tikka rifles too, a T3X bolt stop.
I ask that do you have it short action, they say that in T3X is only one model.
So that´s why i know that T3X has only one size bolt stop, and it is long.
Like i writed earlierl, i have orderd from Sako a T3 model short bolt stop, and i have those in all my T3X actions that use AICS magazines on my KRG chassies.
It´s not big, maybe 10mm the lenght on the short and lonf bolt stop movement, but it makes quite big result on the bolt action.
bolt stop.JPG
 
Last edited:
There is only 2 size bolt stop in the Tikka.
And what i have been looking, all the T3X rifles seem to be in the long stop version.
Like i had Tikka T3X TAC A1, it has the long bolt stop, and 100% sure that the bolt stop is long in your rifle too, since it use CTR magazine.
I have ordered from Sako, the factory that makes Tikka rifles too, a T3X bolt stop.
I ask that do you have it short action, they say that in T3X is only one model.
So that´s why i know that T3X has only one size bolt stop, and it is long.
Like i writed earlierl, i have orderd from Sako a T3 model short bolt stop, and i have those in all my T3X actions that use AICS magazines on my KRG chassies.
It´s not big, maybe 10mm the lenght on the short and lonf bolt stop movement, but it makes quite big result on the bolt action.
View attachment 7173619
I seriously doubt that the .223 rifles have the same bolt stop as the .30-06, for example. Are you 100% sure?
 
I'm putting together a CTR build for a hunting rifle and was wondering who all had pillars installed on their Manners stocks? Is it necessary to do this and also bed the rifle? The stock I picked up is inletted for CDI bottom metal and does not have the mini chassis. Every Manners I have bought was for a 700 footprint and had a mini chassis.

I have two Manners stocks for Tikka actions, both use CDI DBM's and I run pillars and have bedded both. YMMV
 
  • Like
Reactions: CStroud
I seriously doubt that the .223 rifles have the same bolt stop as the .30-06, for example. Are you 100% sure?

Well, i have 223rem TAC A1, it has the long bolt stop.
And like i writed, that SAKO does only have one bolt stop model for Tikka T3X, so that should be like 100% sure answer.
If you want ask from factory, if you dont believe me write to [email protected]


I do check this out, so i can say it for 110%.
Just send email to info, that can they check the T3X bolt stop.
It just that i have ordered T3X bolt stop, and T3 bolt stop, and in the T3 they have 2 size.
But let´s wait the answer of the factory.
Kit with both T3 bolts stop is not bad in midwestgunworks.
 
Last edited:
  • Wow
Reactions: 762libertarian
There is only 2 size bolt stop in the Tikka.
And what i have been looking, all the T3X rifles seem to be in the long stop version.
Like i had Tikka T3X TAC A1, it has the long bolt stop, and 100% sure that the bolt stop is long in your rifle too, since it use CTR magazine.
I have ordered from Sako, the factory that makes Tikka rifles too, a T3X bolt stop.
I ask that do you have it short action, they say that in T3X is only one model.
So that´s why i know that T3X has only one size bolt stop, and it is long.
Like i writed earlierl, i have orderd from Sako a T3 model short bolt stop, and i have those in all my T3X actions that use AICS magazines on my KRG chassies.
It´s not big, maybe 10mm the lenght on the short and lonf bolt stop movement, but it makes quite big result on the bolt action.
View attachment 7173619
Well it must be something that Tikka does in your countries overseas.
I can tell you 100% that my 6.5CM T3x CTR came with a mid length bolt stop.

Pictures I shot of my bolt stops including my CTR T3x.
Other people have confirmed that not only their T3 but also their T3x CTR came with the mid size stop.
IMG_0312ab.jpg
IMG_0324abc.jpg


Here is another Picture of the Mid size CTR stop....
Bolt Stop[1].JPG
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: 260284
  • Like
Reactions: littlepod
I'm trying to keep up with these bolt stops but I really do not know much about what size it should be... I have a T3X CTR 308. What do I buy to make it more efficient of a bolt stop so I'm not doing a long throw on a .308 cartridge?
No way of knowing that till you pull out your bolt stop to see what size you have......
 
Well it must be something that Tikka does in your countries overseas.
I can tell you 100% that my 6.5CM T3x CTR came with a mid length bolt stop.

Pictures I shot of my bolt stops including my CTR T3x.
Other people have confirmed that not only their T3 but also their T3x CTR came with the mid size stop.View attachment 7173666View attachment 7173667

Here is another Picture of the Mid size CTR stop....
View attachment 7173701

Interesting.
I need to check out my 4 Tikka rifle bolt stop, what do they look like.
Were those all T3X , or T3 ?
Out side is different on T3X.
 
Interesting.
I need to check out my 4 Tikka rifle bolt stop, what do they look like.
Were those all T3X , or T3 ?
Out side is different on T3X.
The long and the short stops are what came in the 2 piece package and yes the outer pattern is different on the T3x which is what I posted in the middle above.
Here is a shot of my T3x CTR showing the outer pattern.
IMG_0482ab.JPG


Here is a 300WM T3Lite that I turned into a 6.5 PRC that shows the standard T3 outer pattern.
IMG_0493a.JPG
 
  • Like
Reactions: viking78
I'm trying to keep up with these bolt stops but I really do not know much about what size it should be... I have a T3X CTR 308. What do I buy to make it more efficient of a bolt stop so I'm not doing a long throw on a .308 cartridge?

2 possible reasons why the CTR has a mid length bolt stop:

A) The CTR mag well needs this bolt stop to let the bolt come far enough to the rear to be able to pick up a cartridge. Remember that the plastic mags for the regular Tikkas are designed to be extremely size efficient, so that the receiver can be used for both .223 and .300 Win Mag.

B) The short stop is for .204 ruger and .223 remington, so all .308 has the mid length.

No need to switch out your bolt stop. My guess is that if you retract the bolt until it hits the bolt stop there will be no, or very very little, space between the face of the bolt and the base of the cartridge in the magazine.
 
Last edited:
Well it must be something that Tikka does in your countries overseas.
I can tell you 100% that my 6.5CM T3x CTR came with a mid length bolt stop.

Pictures I shot of my bolt stops including my CTR T3x.
Other people have confirmed that not only their T3 but also their T3x CTR came with the mid size stop.View attachment 7173666View attachment 7173667

Here is another Picture of the Mid size CTR stop....
View attachment 7173701
I have two tikka's apart right now and I just checked, and my T3X 6.5 CM superlite has the medium bolt stop, and my T3X .223 has the short stop. And the 6.5CM has a 'M+' on the magazine (stock plastic mag). So my 223 has 'S', my 22-250 has 'M', and 6.5 CM has 'M+' and I sold my 25-06 so I have no info on those mags.
 
The long and the short stops are what came in the 2 piece package and yes the outer pattern is different on the T3x which is what I posted in the middle above.
Here is a shot of my T3x CTR showing the outer pattern.
View attachment 7173898

Here is a 300WM T3Lite that I turned into a 6.5 PRC that shows the standard T3 outer pattern.
View attachment 7173906

Just received email from Sako.
Ok, i was wrong on that, Tikka does make 2 different bolt stop model in T3X, "CTR" model and long model for ammo like 300winmag, 93x62 and so on.
In the T3 they had 3 size, like JGR showed on the picture 1.
 
  • Like
Reactions: JGR1953
Well, you know, every one want´s to be right.
Im glad that i was not right, but i did check it from the factory.
So now we know, very importand thing :giggle:.
It´s all about the nuance, we want to keep it in tight tolerance.
Hah, just kidding, it´s good that we keep the talk alive here.
Best product since the NOKIA in the USA, dont you guys think so?
And these things do not give up after 2 years.

I love Tikka, and if you do not believe it, check this s..t out.
AND NO, Tikka does noet pay me of this, it´s just that simple, Tikka rifles are so good.
 
Well, you know, every one want´s to be right.
Im glad that i was not right, but i did check it from the factory.
So now we know, very importand thing :giggle:.
It´s all about the nuance, we want to keep it in tight tolerance.
Hah, just kidding, it´s good that we keep the talk alive here.
Best product since the NOKIA in the USA, dont you guys think so?
And these things do not give up after 2 years.

I love Tikka, and if you do not believe it, check this s..t out.
AND NO, Tikka does noet pay me of this, it´s just that simple, Tikka rifles are so good.

Oh shit, thats you? I follow your page. Love that camo tikka in the camo W3. Makes me want to buy another tikka again and do something similar. I regret selling mine.
 
  • Like
Reactions: viking78
Exactly!

Thanks man.
:)

No problem.
That is ColeTac Europe manufactured.
Im not sure does it have in US, but write message to Kaspars at ColeTac Europe, i bet hi can send to US too.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Jayjay1
For anyone looking for a Tikka rail, Area 419 makes a great one. I just picked one up in 20 MOA this week and it is top notch at a fair price. It is 7075 aluminum (a bit harder than the cheaper grade), has a recoil lug built in, the finish is great with no rough edges, and machining was spot on so I didn't need to bed it. I'm not affiliated with them in any way but I appreciate it when others give feedback so thought I would share my experience.
 
For anyone looking for a Tikka rail, Area 419 makes a great one. I just picked one up in 20 MOA this week and it is top notch at a fair price. It is 7075 aluminum (a bit harder than the cheaper grade), has a recoil lug built in, the finish is great with no rough edges, and machining was spot on so I didn't need to bed it. I'm not affiliated with them in any way but I appreciate it when others give feedback so thought I would share my experience.

so I have the same rail and I was planning on installing it on my CTR. The front two screws came out no problem the two screws closest to rear were on there so tight I started to strip the screws. I can’t get them off. What are you guys doing to get them off. And if they are stripped am I fucked or is there something I can do to get the screws loose. #helpneeded
 
so I have the same rail and I was planning on installing it on my CTR. The front two screws came out no problem the two screws closest to rear were on there so tight I started to strip the screws. I can’t get them off. What are you guys doing to get them off. And if they are stripped am I fucked or is there something I can do to get the screws loose. #helpneeded
Have you heated it up yet? Others have said that a clothes iron works great. Even heat and easy to use. Don't recall heat setting.
 
so I have the same rail and I was planning on installing it on my CTR. The front two screws came out no problem the two screws closest to rear were on there so tight I started to strip the screws. I can’t get them off. What are you guys doing to get them off. And if they are stripped am I fucked or is there something I can do to get the screws loose. #helpneeded
Screws on mine were plastic. Had one strip so I got a pin punch smaller than the hole and punched it through. Didn't mess up the threads luckily. Forgot about the heat gun trick.
 
so I have the same rail and I was planning on installing it on my CTR. The front two screws came out no problem the two screws closest to rear were on there so tight I started to strip the screws. I can’t get them off. What are you guys doing to get them off. And if they are stripped am I fucked or is there something I can do to get the screws loose. #helpneeded
When you say they are stripped, are you talking threads or the screw head?
 
They are plastic plugs, just push them through
Unlike the standard models that come without a rail and have plastic filler plugs, a CTR comes with a rail installed so they aren't plastic.

Many people heat it with an iron. I didn't have to do that on mine but what I did do was hold the rifle steady (vice or another person) and take the screw driver and put torque on it while rapping the back of the driver with a hammer. That sharp impact under torque seems to help break them loose.
 
  • Like
Reactions: MarinePMI
so I have the same rail and I was planning on installing it on my CTR. The front two screws came out no problem the two screws closest to rear were on there so tight I started to strip the screws. I can’t get them off. What are you guys doing to get them off. And if they are stripped am I fucked or is there something I can do to get the screws loose. #helpneeded
My base screws unscrewed easily. They just had a dab of white thread locker on them it looked like. I also rebarreled three tikkas this weekend and the barrels came off by smacking the action wrench handle with my hand. Did not have the trouble most guys post. Two stainless and one blues. They were all T3x actions. Another member in the gunsmith section said that may be the difference.
 
Soldering iron works as well for screws. Also, a manual (as in, using a hammer to actuate it) impact driver usually works well for those stubbornly stuck screws.
 
I am completely new to Tikka's. Ordered a CTR last night and expect to swap out the stock fairly quickly. I was just reading the thread discussing KRG creating a different inlet for the Bravo so it would accept the CTR mags. Sounded like it was in the works but, based on projected date, seems to be stalled out.

So my question to this group is, has anyone done (or seen done) the modification of the AICS inlet to accept the CTR mags and bottom metal? I've got the skills and equipment to do the job but, wondering if there is enough "meat" on the Bravo chassis to accomplish this.

Bob