I believe it's 2.84".Can someone do me a favor and measure the inside of a standard short action Tikka mag? I'm curious how long of OAL for 6.5 CM cartridges the plastic mag will allow.
Thanks-
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I believe it's 2.84".Can someone do me a favor and measure the inside of a standard short action Tikka mag? I'm curious how long of OAL for 6.5 CM cartridges the plastic mag will allow.
Thanks-
Thanks. I like the plastic mag system for a hunting rifle but my current load for for my CTR action-barrel, Bravo stock set up is 2.87 OAL so the plastic mag would be limiting. Is anyone running a 6.5 CM or 308 in a long action tikka mag?I believe it's 2.84".
My first attempt at a precision rifle
CTR 24" 6.5creedmoor
I am completely new to Tikka's. Ordered a CTR last night and expect to swap out the stock fairly quickly. I was just reading the thread discussing KRG creating a different inlet for the Bravo so it would accept the CTR mags. Sounded like it was in the works but, based on projected date, seems to be stalled out.
So my question to this group is, has anyone done (or seen done) the modification of the AICS inlet to accept the CTR mags and bottom metal? I've got the skills and equipment to do the job but, wondering if there is enough "meat" on the Bravo chassis to accomplish this.
Bob
I believe @Massoud posted the needed change dimensions. IIRC, it just had to do with squaring the mag well (CTR mags have less taper, front to back), and a different mag latch.
Do you have to change the bolt stop with the M+ mags or will the one in the 6.5 Cm rifles work?I’m using the M+ mags for a 6.5 CM And a 260 AI. They are about 2.98” and work great. Brownells and other places have them.
You do not have to change the bolt stop. At least not with the T3x. I have both mags as well.Interesting
Do you have to change the bolt stop with the M+ mags or will the one in the 6.5 Cm rifles work?
Cool. Will look into that. I may be crazy to prefer the factory mag over AICS but I do. I'm not going to war with my bolt action so don't really need a metal (noisy) 10 round mag for hunting.You do not have to change the bolt stop. At least not with the T3x. I have both mags as well.
I don’t think you are crazy. I prefer a hinged floorplate over any magazine system on a hunting rifle. I don’t know of one for Tikka though.Cool. Will look into that. I may be crazy to prefer the factory mag over AICS but I do. I'm not going to war with my bolt action so don't really need a metal (noisy) 10 round mag for hunting.
I’d call that better than an attempt, I’d call that accomplished
Snip...The 243 is also getting shipped off at the end of the year for a semi custom build, though hunting oriented...Snip
I shot my CTR 6.5 in a Bravo this year, added the ARCA rail and spigot halfway thru and it seemed to help a lot especially with a gamer plate to attach a bag to. At under 15 pounds with a muzzle break and the bipod on it seems competitive to me.Just picked up my 3rd tikka. Up until now Iv only owned hunting oriented guns, t3 lite in 243, and one in 223. Added a 6.5 ctr to the group, and plan on using it to get into prs.
The 243 is also getting shipped off at the end of the year for a semi custom build, though hunting oriented.
Anyways I have had a bravo chassis for a rem LA. Was considering the bravo for the CTR.
Anyone shooting a tikka in competitions care to comment on chassis choice? Bravo with a spigot and Arca rail, a few weights, or look elsewhere for a solely comp gun?
Nice! I would like to see how the Carbon 6 compares to the Proof as they are much cheaper.Just installed Proof pre fit. 22” 308 Sendero
175 FGMM@2655fps several 5 shot groups around 3/8 to 1/2 inch
178eldx hand-loads 2665fps sd9 one hole groups
I shot my CTR 6.5 in a Bravo this year, added the ARCA rail and spigot halfway thru and it seemed to help a lot especially with a gamer plate to attach a bag to. At under 15 pounds with a muzzle break and the bipod on it seems competitive to me.
Every shooter is different but that setup is fine
I'm putting together a CTR build for a hunting rifle and was wondering who all had pillars installed on their Manners stocks? Is it necessary to do this and also bed the rifle? The stock I picked up is inletted for CDI bottom metal and does not have the mini chassis. Every Manners I have bought was for a 700 footprint and had a mini chassis.
My last Manners for the CTR was bedded and had pillars and it shot .5 groups consistently. I recently got one without pillars and the groups aren’t as tight but I need to experiment with the torque a bit to see if that will tighten it up.
The stock with pillars is in the px right now.
Not sure it's a club....more of a cult but welcomeCan I join the Tikka club now? Picked up this 6.5cm this morning. Pulled a scope and bipod off one of my rifles that never goes to the range. I've got two boxes of Hornady 140gr ELD-M and anxious to get out and shoot it.
2019-11-08_01-16-59 by Bob, on Flickr
Bob
I just bought a 20” 308 carbon prefitJust installed Proof pre fit. 22” 308 Sendero
175 FGMM@2655fps several 5 shot groups around 3/8 to 1/2 inch
178eldx hand-loads 2665fps sd9 one hole groups
I don't even have one yet and I'm here part of it.Can I join the Tikka club now? Picked up this 6.5cm this morning. Pulled a scope and bipod off one of my rifles that never goes to the range. I've got two boxes of Hornady 140gr ELD-M and anxious to get out and shoot it.
2019-11-08_01-16-59 by Bob, on Flickr
Bob
so I have the same rail and I was planning on installing it on my CTR. The front two screws came out no problem the two screws closest to rear were on there so tight I started to strip the screws. I can’t get them off. What are you guys doing to get them off. And if they are stripped am I fucked or is there something I can do to get the screws loose. #helpneeded
Hey, in addition to the aforementioned use of heat and impact, I had pretty good success soaking my action (stainless) in acetone overnight. Acetone will attack epoxies an plastics so You will need to remove your barreled action from your stock, remove trigger too. Don’t soak near water heaters etc. I replaced my rail with the Mt. Tactical, 2 of the screws were really stuck and this helped out. Good luck
Not really any dislikes, it does pretty much all I need to do. There are others I have seen with the same stock at local matches and they are competitive. As far as your comment about a folder, I looked at the Tikka TAC model that has the folder chassis but did not like the fact it is not that solid so I got the CTR and then a Bravo. I hear you on the tipping point, I did it over time and my next gun will be custom with an MDT ACC chassis I think since it will be so much more versitile.Any dislikes in the setup? I’m kind of at a tipping point, I’m trying to get into matches on the cheap, but want to be competitive. Iv had a bravo, enjoyed the bravo(just not for the application I had it for). That said once I add a spigot, and a plate, I’m nearing the tipping point of just stepping up to say an MDT or MPA.
The only thing I wish the bravo had was a folder.
View attachment 7180249
This be my Tikka:
- Tikka T3
- Tikka performance trigger spring
- Arc Barloc
- Sterk bolt knob
- Area 419 Sidewinder
- Athlon Ares ETR with sunshade
- McMillan A5 Fully Adjustable in McMillan Urban Camo
- McGowan .260 AI 26" #7 profile barrel
- Arc Rings
- Nightforce 20 MOA rail
- Currently using CTR DBM, but I switch it out for the Mountain Tactical AICS sometimes
- Freaking piece of garbage QD bipod
Not really any dislikes, it does pretty much all I need to do. There are others I have seen with the same stock at local matches and they are competitive. As far as your comment about a folder, I looked at the Tikka TAC model that has the folder chassis but did not like the fact it is not that solid so I got the CTR and then a Bravo. I hear you on the tipping point, I did it over time and my next gun will be custom with an MDT ACC chassis I think since it will be so much more versitile.
I am surprised you thought the TAC A1 folder was not solid. All of the ones I handled look and feel like one piece of steel.Not really any dislikes, it does pretty much all I need to do. There are others I have seen with the same stock at local matches and they are competitive. As far as your comment about a folder, I looked at the Tikka TAC model that has the folder chassis but did not like the fact it is not that solid so I got the CTR and then a Bravo. I hear you on the tipping point, I did it over time and my next gun will be custom with an MDT ACC chassis I think since it will be so much more versitile.
Looking very good, how does she shoot´s?
That's a solid plan. I just helped two friends get into Tikka CTRs/ KRG Bravo's. Each one of them told me after they bought and shot their rifles, "This thing shoots less than half moa!". My response was, "Ya, I told you they are good rifles...".
Plus, inexpensive, quality prefits are available when you want to rebarrel. IMO the only other upgrade path is adding weight to the overall rifle and chassis. You can add 2 pounds by getting the arca rail, spigot, and W3 back end, and weight kit.
Nice. What's your freebore and COAL? I'm one of the few folks that I know that use RL23. I get great results as a replacement of RL26
I just did not want a folding stockI am surprised you thought the TAC A1 folder was not solid. All of the ones I handled look and feel like one piece of steel.
Weather here in DFW sucks today (like pretty much everywhere it seems). Nothing to do but surf the web and order parts for the new rifle. Sterk swept back handle/knob and a B&C Tactical Medalist #6 ordered. Where do you guys order the YoDave spring?
Bob
Where did you order the Sterk from?
You can order the yodave spring direct from yodaveproducts.com.
You can order the Sterk swept back handle from Tacticalworks.com.
I bought my last spring from these guys: https://elayprecision.com/product/tikka-t3-t3x-trigger-spring/ I have a Yo Dave spring but when I went to order this one, I found that it was $10.00 plus $9.00 for shipping a tiny spring! The reviews on the Elay spring were good so I ordered from them. -- $9.95 and free shipping. Stupid me ordered before I had my rifle in hand and when I got it, I found that I could get 1.5 # out of my factory trigger and factory spring so I never put it in.Where did you order the Sterk from?