Enter the Sako S20If Tikka would offer the CTR model in some magnum flavors they would crush it. Simple as a 7 rem mag or 300 win mag would suffice. Ever better offer something new like the 300 prc or 7 saum or even the noslers. Come on Tikka.
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Enter the Sako S20If Tikka would offer the CTR model in some magnum flavors they would crush it. Simple as a 7 rem mag or 300 win mag would suffice. Ever better offer something new like the 300 prc or 7 saum or even the noslers. Come on Tikka.
I've got a 20" 6.5 CM CTR and it shoots incredibly well. I broke it in with a box of american whitetail (which it shot really well), and then shot for zero with some FGMM 130 Bergers, which it shot INCREDIBLY well. Five shot groups under a 1/2". It really likes those 130's. Haven't shot anything heavier yet since those did so well, but I guess I should probably try some 143's and 147's.Finally got my CTR 6.5 Creedmoor with 20"barrel set up for now. Good enough to take to the range for the first time tomorrow hopefully .View attachment 7256536
I've got a 20" 6.5 CM CTR and it shoots incredibly well. I broke it in with a box of american whitetail (which it shot really well), and then shot for zero with some FGMM 130 Bergers, which it shot INCREDIBLY well. Five shot groups under a 1/2". It really likes those 130's. Haven't shot anything heavier yet since those did so well, but I guess I should probably try some 143's and 147's.
I'm a big fan of Area 419 rails. Have them on all of my Tikkas now. I really like TPS rings but have Seekins on one of my rifles as they are a smidge lower than the TPS .So my CTR got a big brother for hunting purposes today.
superlite in 7mm mag
View attachment 7255582
Looking for recommendations for a solid ring/scope combo. Want to be able to dial out to distance and am thinking of an SWFA 3-9x42 hd in some zee rings.
I am open to suggestions but would like to keep gun relatively light weight and in ffp for the scope.
I love Ar
I'm a big fan of Area 419 rails. Have them on all of my Tikkas now. I really like TPS rings but have Seekins on one of my rifles as they are a smidge lower than the TPS .
Ran into a problem yesterday ,need some ideas on what it could be, my t3x is chambered in 6dasher in a mpa chassis. I was trying out some of my buddies copper creek ammo loaded in alpha brass I was mainly check to see how smooth it was chambering in my rifle so I was running the bolt pretty slow , chambered the first round and fired it ,worked the bolt slow and ejected the brass , chambered the next round slow and the firing pin was not cocked i ejected that live round and chambered the 3rd when i closed the bolt the round fired ( luckily I dont close the bolt till I'm on target, and I actually hit the target). After that I worked the bolt slowly with no ammo and every time I closed the bolt the firing pin fired I did that probably 5 or 6 times and it fired every time then I ran the bolt hard and it wouldn't do it . After I ran it hard one time it was fine even if i went back to cycling the bolt slow. I do have a aftermarket trigger spring in it( cant remember which brand) and it's set pretty light and I have the firing pin bushed but I would have figured running the bolt hard would have set it off but it doesn't I tried pushing down on the safety to try to get it to malfunction but nothing happens. Has anyone ever had this happen
Is your trigger set extremely low? I found that with an aftermarket mountain tactical trigger spring it wouldn't hold it unless I had the screw really cranked down. It did it about 80% of the time until I tightened it down til the screw was almost bottomed out. Then it did great. I ended up installing a Timney trigger though and it's amazing. I can now cycle the bolt with the safety on, which in my opinion is a big improvement.Ran into a problem yesterday ,need some ideas on what it could be, my t3x is chambered in 6dasher in a mpa chassis. I was trying out some of my buddies copper creek ammo loaded in alpha brass I was mainly check to see how smooth it was chambering in my rifle so I was running the bolt pretty slow , chambered the first round and fired it ,worked the bolt slow and ejected the brass , chambered the next round slow and the firing pin was not cocked i ejected that live round and chambered the 3rd when i closed the bolt the round fired ( luckily I dont close the bolt till I'm on target, and I actually hit the target). After that I worked the bolt slowly with no ammo and every time I closed the bolt the firing pin fired I did that probably 5 or 6 times and it fired every time then I ran the bolt hard and it wouldn't do it . After I ran it hard one time it was fine even if i went back to cycling the bolt slow. I do have a aftermarket trigger spring in it( cant remember which brand) and it's set pretty light and I have the firing pin bushed but I would have figured running the bolt hard would have set it off but it doesn't I tried pushing down on the safety to try to get it to malfunction but nothing happens. Has anyone ever had this happen
I need to try those 140's. Both my 6.5's are very partial to Berger rounds. 130's and 135's do very well. I've been pretty impressed with other HSM ammo I've shot.Best group with the 6.5 to date at least....
Every time I go out I always get one flyer ....
I guess I cant complain ...last time I shot rifles for groups Bush may have been president! Hahahah
Mine really likes the 140grain berger hunting rounds loaded by Hsm.....
Shoots barnes precision match just about as well.....
I only assume my groups will get better only around 190 rounds down the pipe!
I consistently get this same group lol
5 shots. 103 yards.
Normally cold as f outside hahaha(Alaska)
View attachment 7257133
it’s really hard to beat the CTR. It feels like cheating. Factory Gun and Factory Ammo shooting consistently .3-.5 MOA. Mine prefers the 140 eldm. But it still shoots .6-.75 with 140 american gunner. Here was yesterday’s best group for eldm. 3 shots @ 100
View attachment 7256639
I'll say this. I never shot my CTR in the original stock. I put it in a KRG Bravo immediately. It shot very well. I installed a Timney trigger on it. It shot even better. I don't think theres any way to hurt the way these shoot unless you taped the action to a broomstick. Even then, it would probably shoot better than a lot of options out there ha ha ha.This is so true..
I just bought a 300wsm at a decent deal.
I want to see how she shoots stock before I turn it into a prs/hunting style build.
But the ctr.......it shoots so nice as is.......even though I don't care for the stock..
I'm afraid to change anything on it for fear of it opening up hahaha...
I need to try those 140's. Both my 6.5's are very partial to Berger rounds. 130's and 135's do very well. I've been pretty impressed with other HSM ammo I've shot.
I agree!...I'll say this. I never shot my CTR in the original stock. I put it in a KRG Bravo immediately. It shot very well. I installed a Timney trigger on it. It shot even better. I don't think theres any way to hurt the way these shoot unless you taped the action to a broomstick. Even then, it would probably shoot better than a lot of options out there ha ha ha.
So my CTR got a big brother for hunting purposes today.
superlite in 7mm mag
Looking for recommendations for a solid ring/scope combo. Want to be able to dial out to distance and am thinking of an SWFA 3-9x42 hd in some zee rings.
I am open to suggestions but would like to keep gun relatively light weight and in ffp for the scope.
So my CTR got a big brother for hunting purposes today.
superlite in 7mm mag
View attachment 7255582
Looking for recommendations for a solid ring/scope combo. Want to be able to dial out to distance and am thinking of an SWFA 3-9x42 hd in some zee rings.
I am open to suggestions but would like to keep gun relatively light weight and in ffp for the scope.
I
You can cycle the bolt with the safety on with the factory trigger. Just take the trigger off and file or grind the top of the bolt lock pin off. Just have to take it down a smidge lower than the lip on it. Just make sure that the shavings don't get into your trigger. To prevent this, I poke a small hole in a ziplock bag and seal the trigger in that with only the pin sticking out of the hole. I then wrap it all in masking tape for good measure. Of course this voids the warrantee so don't do it without careful consideration and at your own risk.Is your trigger set extremely low? I found that with an aftermarket mountain tactical trigger spring it wouldn't hold it unless I had the screw really cranked down. It did it about 80% of the time until I tightened it down til the screw was almost bottomed out. Then it did great. I ended up installing a Timney trigger though and it's amazing. I can now cycle the bolt with the safety on, which in my opinion is a big improvement.
Yea it's set as light as it will go and still function, I wish I could get a aftermarket trigger but no one makes a left one other than bix'n andyIs your trigger set extremely low? I found that with an aftermarket mountain tactical trigger spring it wouldn't hold it unless I had the screw really cranked down. It did it about 80% of the time until I tightened it down til the screw was almost bottomed out. Then it did great. I ended up installing a Timney trigger though and it's amazing. I can now cycle the bolt with the safety on, which in my opinion is a big improvement.
I did that, iv got 500 rounds through the gun never having a single issue , I'm gonna get a diff trigger spring and try that outToo light trigger I think! After adjusting trigger you should always cycle the bolt and drop the rear of the cocked rifle to the floor few times and see that rifle does not fire.
Picture?You can cycle the bolt with the safety on with the factory trigger. Just take the trigger off and file or grind the top of the bolt lock pin off. Just have to take it down a smidge lower than the lip on it. Just make sure that the shavings don't get into your trigger. To prevent this, I poke a small hole in a ziplock bag and seal the trigger in that with only the pin sticking out of the hole. I then wrap it all in masking tape for good measure. Of course this voids the warrantee so don't do it without careful consideration and at your own risk.
I'm not going to take my rifle apart to get pictures but attached is a stock photo with a red line showing the area that I removed. There is a step in the pin at this position and I have always needed to go .010-.020 below that step to keep the bolt from dragging on the pin when the safety was 'on'. I have always clamped the narrow part in a vice and cut with a hack saw at the step. From there I file or grind it down a bit more. As stated earlier, make sure the trigger is wrapped so no metal gets into the trigger. Again, this will void the warranty and do it at your own risk.Picture?
That would do the trick for the guys who don’t like the bolt locks. No reason not to buy a Tikka ? . I use to be one of the guys who were against the two position safety that locked the bolt considering I grew up with Remingtons.I'm not going to take my rifle apart to get pictures but attached is a stock photo with a red line showing the area that I removed. There is a step in the pin at this position and I have always needed to go .010-.020 below that step to keep the bolt from dragging on the pin when the safety was 'on'. I have always clamped the narrow part in a vice and cut with a hack saw at the step. From there I file or grind it down a bit more. As stated earlier, make sure the trigger is wrapped so no metal gets into the trigger. Again, this will void the warranty and do it at your own risk.
I had that same issue with a Tikka WITH a bolt lock. It happened at the range so I was cycling between shots with the safety off. The bolt was part way up and the gun didn't go off. Now, when I'm hunting, I take it off safety using my trigger finger and part of the process is to slide my finger over the bolt on the way to the trigger to confirm that it is fully closed. Takes a millisecond longer to shoot but never been a problem with a misfire or not getting the shot off.That would do the trick for the guys who don’t like the bolt locks. No reason not to buy a Tikka ? . I use to be one of the guys who were against the two position safety that locked the bolt considering I grew up with Remingtons.
Two years ago I had a pig walk across a small opening. I lifted up to make a quick shot, pressed the trigger and nothing happened. By the time I figured out that my bolt handle was lifted halfway, the pig was gone. This was with my tried and true Remington. I now appreciate that bolt lock on my Tikkas. Neither type of safety is a make or break for me.
Absolutely. I learned to do the same.I had that same issue with a Tikka WITH a bolt lock. It happened at the range so I was cycling between shots with the safety off. The bolt was part way up and the gun didn't go off. Now, when I'm hunting, I take it off safety using my trigger finger and part of the process is to slide my finger over the bolt on the way to the trigger to confirm that it is fully closed. Takes a millisecond longer to shoot but never been a problem with a misfire or not getting the shot off.
Can't you just remove the pin. I have only removed pin and safety lever when fitting the 3 position safety from ASH. It should work without the pin but safety catch put back.I'm not going to take my rifle apart to get pictures but attached is a stock photo with a red line showing the area that I removed. There is a step in the pin at this position and I have always needed to go .010-.020 below that step to keep the bolt from dragging on the pin when the safety was 'on'. I have always clamped the narrow part in a vice and cut with a hack saw at the step. From there I file or grind it down a bit more. As stated earlier, make sure the trigger is wrapped so no metal gets into the trigger. Again, this will void the warranty and do it at your own risk.
Did you have to do much modification to it for proper become?Tikka CTR 6.5C 20" in Manners T-6A
I suspect that you are correct. I looked at it the the last time that I shortened a pin and I concluded that would likely work. I just didn't want to dive into the trigger and loose a pin or spring and be screwed.Can't you just remove the pin. I have only removed pin and safety lever when fitting the 3 position safety from ASH. It should work without the pin but safety catch put back.
edi
Did you have to do much modification to it for proper become?
Start of a new project: bought a used but supposedly unfired CTR 260 for a good price.
This is going to be something I can practice with to stay sharp for hunting and maybe dip my toes into PRS competition this summer.(fingers crossed)
Rail, rings, break, and chassis in route. All in this should stay a fairly value mined build.
View attachment 7258716
I’ve been stricken for some time. This is my second CTR build. The first was a 308 hunting(ish) build I sold to a friend.For the full effect, you need to read the following in an old wizard voice:
“Welcome to the dark side....
Abandon all hope for a Zero Credit Card Balance.
Be fore warned !
Many have trodden the path you now pursue, many have forsaken all sustenance except for coffee and Ramen Noodles to achieve the perfect zen that is the cry of “Impact” at the 1,000 yard firing line...
Good luck on your journey and always remember, In the words of those the went before you: “Buy Once, Cry Once”. For if you fail to heed this advice you will be doomed to buying “Project Rifles“ and “Trainer Rifles“ to use up the spare parts from upgrading in small steps...
This is another strain of the wallet draining plague known as “Black Rifle Disease”
You have been warned !! “
Tikka factory barrels are awesome barrels.
I still have one in my 260rem.
On that rig on right, i have Kriger 6.5CM, because it was 308win, i still have that barrel though.
Have you shot it yet?I just bought a t3x ctr in 6.5cm. I am looking at the mpa chassis. Is there any problems with them and the Tikka action. If so what do you recommend. I am really wanting to go ahead and build something I am going to be happy with.
No not yet. I am waiting on optics to come in. I am curious how it will shoot. This is my first tikka. Have always had Remington 700 and ar10 platform stuff. But it's never been anything at the the Tikka ctr level. Atleast that's what I am hoping.Have you shot it yet?
No problems I can think of ....except for me a full aluminum chasis will be cold as hell as I do a lot of cold weather shooting lately
Ive got a tac a1 in 6.5 CM with 24", I'm running about 2760 FPS loading 42.4 grn of Reloader 16 with 140 grn ELDMatch. I've read around 2500 rounds will be about the life of the barrel but plan to shoot it until throat erosion becomes an issue or my groups start to open up.My Tikka CTR 24" in 6.5 has 2900 rounds now. The lands have moved forward quite a bit. Groups are noticeably bigger but still not bad. How many rounds should I expect to get from this factory barrel with using 40.7 grains of H4350 and 142 SMK going about 2640-2670 max? thanks
I heard on a vortex podcast That they are running CTRs as test guns. They mentioned retiring one around 5000 rounds that went from .3 to .5+ MOA. They mentioned they have a couple in circulation with around 3000 rounds that are still holding tight.Ive got a tac a1 in 6.5 CM with 24", I'm running about 2760 FPS loading 42.4 grn of Reloader 16 with 140 grn ELDMatch. I've read around 2500 rounds will be about the life of the barrel but plan to shoot it until throat erosion becomes an issue or my groups start to open up.
Ill be more than happy for mine to last that long. I currently only have about 650 rounds through mine, so I've still got a long ways to go. I wounder how hot they are running their rounds?I heard on a vortex podcast That they are running CTRs as test guns. They mentioned retiring one around 5000 rounds that went from .3 to .5+ MOA. They mentioned they have a couple in circulation with around 3000 rounds that are still holding tight.