Tikka T3 Thread

Need help, debating between Mark5HD 3.6-18x44 or the 5-25x56, T3X lite. I have a mountain tactical 20moa rail and have Seekins .95 rings already. Will the 56obj clear or would I need higher rings?? Or just run with the 3.6-18x44 that I know will clear.

if it was me looking at those two scopes i would look at it in a different way...

1. both are 5 power scopes
2. one will have better low light transmission (56mm obj) than the other
3. what will i be using the scope primarily for

when spending that sort of money on a scope i would be prepared to purchase new rings if the ones i have didn't allow the bell to clear

my thoughts.
 
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if it was me looking at those two scopes i would look at it in a different way...

1. both are 5 power scopes
2. one will have better low light transmission (56mm obj) than the other
3. what will i be using the scope primarily for

when spending that sort of money on a scope i would be prepared to purchase new rings if the ones i have didn't allow the bell to clear

my thoughts.
Cheek weld is also of concern. I'd rather not have to modify the stock or buy a new stock with adjustable comb. I know I'm pinching pennies but it's what I gotta do. ?
 
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Finally got the McMillan installed on my hunting rifle. Loving the balance and the Thunderbeast suppressor (when it comes) will finish it out nicely. It has been a multi year project to get it here. Started off as a stainless CTR in 6.5 CM but since then I had the barrel cut to 19 inches and fluted. Had it Cerakoted, added a Area 419 20 moa rail, aftermarket bottom metal to accept the factory mags. Finally I added the Carbon McMillian stock, Nightforce scope, Seekins low rings and Sterk handle. I think I'm done now but who knows :)

Wow that looks great! I would like to do the same for a T3x stainless in 3006. Dumb question maybe, but why a 20 moa rail on a hunting rifle? What will your maximum ranges be? Is that to get the scope higher to match the stock? Are there any disadvantages to using the dovetail mount? What bottom metal did you go with?
 
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Countdown do anything for anyone? Just left at 0's upon refreshing and now there are tears in my popcorn
 
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Looks like a Sako hunting rifle with integral picatinny rail and Blaser style thumbhole stock

Oh. It is a chassis. With a bit of adjustability.

and a different version with a more target/precision style chassis/stock
 
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I might try to get behind one first, personally I think the ergonomics aren’t great. I sold mine and got a KRG Bravo and I’m much happier.

although it might not be quite as comfortable, when I was considering those two, it was actually cheaper for me to buy the Tac a1 take-off chassis with 2 mags for $500 shipped. After selling the magazines, CTR stock, bottom metal, I was into the upgrade for less than $200. I figured that was pretty damn cheap to get into a folding aluminum chassis.
 
Wow that looks great! I would like to do the same for a T3x stainless in 3006. Dumb question maybe, but why a 20 moa rail on a hunting rifle? What will your maximum ranges be? Is that to get the scope higher to match the stock? Are there any disadvantages to using the dovetail mount? What bottom metal did you go with?
Regarding the 20 moa rail: I have 20 moa because that's what all of the cool kids have.... In all seriousness, no, it isn't needed for hunting (my kind of hunting anyway) but my brother has a range set up that we can shoot 1200 yards on steel so it's nice for that, especially with the velocity that the shorter barrel is producing. A zero moa rail would be just about perfect for cheek weld with the Seekins Low rings that I have but I also really like the Area 419 rails and they are 20 moa. The 20 moa with low rings does gives a nice cheek weld. Not perfect, but acceptable for hunting purposes. I just don't know if that setup would work with a 50mm scope....it would be really close.

Dovetail mounts: I haven't used them so I can't say for sure. I used the Sako dovetail mounts (on a Sako) once and hated them. I'm sure they function as they should but I just thought that they were engineered to fix a problem that doesn't exist. They are dang expensive too. My main concern with the Tikka dovetail rings is that if you want to take advantage of the recoil pin (which is nice) that the better rings have, it means mounting one of the rings in a specific spot (to match the hole on the rifle). Depending on the scope you have, this could mean mounting the scope to position the tube on the ring NOT for the best eye relief. IMHO, it's just hard to beat the good ol' tried and true Picatinny Rail base and ring system. So many more options for perfect alignment and ring options as well as being battle proved to be very rugged.

I went with the UK Gunworks bottom metal. I had never heard of it but a member here gave me a good deal on it and I really like it. It is made of 7075 aluminum alloy- most domestic bottom metals are 6000 series which is softer. Wish I could find another used one for my other Tikka as they are about $275 new.
 
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Cheek weld is also of concern. I'd rather not have to modify the stock or buy a new stock with adjustable comb. I know I'm pinching pennies but it's what I gotta do. ?

Understand.
You can always add a cheek riser. I did that on one of my rifles. I used a bistoli cheek riser which has 3 levels of adjustment without modifying the stock. It also holds 10 rounds of ammo. Not sure if available outside of Australia. Itar [sic] might not allow imports of the cheek riser ?

 
I might try to get behind one first, personally I think the ergonomics aren’t great. I sold mine and got a KRG Bravo and I’m much happier.
I put my CTR in a KRG Bravo and its awesome. I've got three rifles in Bravos now and I think it would be hard to find a better stock unless you're willing to pay a hell of a lot more.
 
Cheek weld is also of concern. I'd rather not have to modify the stock or buy a new stock with adjustable comb. I know I'm pinching pennies but it's what I gotta do. ?
I've got a CTR and I"m running a MK5HD 3.6-18 scope on it and it fits just fine. I"m using Leupold rings and it does have a 20MOA rail, but its has more than enough clearance, and the eye relief is just right. It's in a KRG Bravo stock now though.
 
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I put my CTR in a KRG Bravo and its awesome. I've got three rifles in Bravos now and I think it would be hard to find a better stock unless you're willing to pay a hell of a lot more.

Seen this yet? Tikka inlet "in the works" according to the Q&A at the bottom of the page.

Bob

 
If you are going to shoot any PRS style matches, get the Area 419 ARCA rail for it. They make an M-lok version and it makes the gun ride a bag a lot better than the factory forend.

I got the Sawtooth ACRA rail for mine and was very happy with the fit and finish
 
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So my CTR got a big brother for hunting purposes today.

superlite in 7mm mag

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Looking for recommendations for a solid ring/scope combo. Want to be able to dial out to distance and am thinking of an SWFA 3-9x42 hd in some zee rings.

I am open to suggestions but would like to keep gun relatively light weight and in ffp for the scope.
 
So my CTR got a big brother for hunting purposes today.

superlite in 7mm mag

View attachment 7255582

Looking for recommendations for a solid ring/scope combo. Want to be able to dial out to distance and am thinking of an SWFA 3-9x42 hd in some zee rings.

I am open to suggestions but would like to keep gun relatively light weight and in ffp for the scope.
I got the same rifle in left hand. I'm going with Leupold Mark5HD in probably a 5-25x56 in Seekins precision rings, Mountain Tactical base. I also did the mountain tactical trigger spring upgrade
 
So my CTR got a big brother for hunting purposes today.

superlite in 7mm mag

Looking for recommendations for a solid ring/scope combo. Want to be able to dial out to distance and am thinking of an SWFA 3-9x42 hd in some zee rings.

I am open to suggestions but would like to keep gun relatively light weight and in ffp for the scope.
I have a T3 in 7mm for hunting out west and here are my suggestions:

Rings - Hawkins Tikka direct mount, https://bertrambrass.com/product-category/hawkins-tikka-rings/

Optic - Find a Bushnell LRHS in the classifieds or if you want to up the budget, Leupold Mark 5HD 3.6-18x44.

Other mods - Get the vertical grip for your T3X stock and a stock pack/cheek rest.

For factory ammo try Hornady Precision Hunter or HSM 168 gr VLD.

I'm currently looking into putting a muzzle brake on to try and tame the recoil.
 
Anyone know if the Tikka T3x Stainless varmint is a heavy barrel? or what contour barrel?

^From memory (I had one in 223) it's a touch lighter than a Remington varmint contour, but she's still nose heavy. Definitely tolerates shot strings better than the lite. Mine would only shoot heavies, but mine seemed to be an outlier.