I wonder if it might be a difference in the way the T3 and the T3Xs were put together?
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I wonder if it might be a difference in the way the T3 and the T3Xs were put together?
It may be. All three that I did were T3x.
I didn’t pad the action like the other member did. Action wrench directly on the action with the bolts finger tight. That may also make a difference. Anyone who makes and breaks connections knows that when too much clamping force is applied around a connection, friction on the threads increases as a result. This may not be the difference as I dont know how guys are chucking up their actions. Its just something to keep in mind.
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I didn’t clamp it very tight in the action wrench, probably 20 lbs/ft or so. I also clamped it closer to the ejection port so that I wouldn’t be directly over the barrel tenon.
The Kroil worked its way down the threads as they were wet from both ends.
The T3’s are pretty consistently tight. It seems that the T3x’s are a bit more hit & miss as far as uber tight vs. reasonable.
PSA: If you buy a Wheeler action wrench, the supplied 1/2-20 bolts are too short. You need 3 1/2” long bolts. DAMHIK...
The Kroil worked its way down the threads as they were wet from both ends.
The T3’s are pretty consistently tight. It seems that the T3x’s are a bit more hit & miss as far as uber tight vs. reasonable.
PSA: If you buy a Wheeler action wrench, the supplied 1/2-20 bolts are too short. You need 3 1/2” long bolts. DAMHIK...
So no luck with my other bolt. I'll try bumping up the trigger pull. It's a Timney T3 2-Stage, any inherent reason it would've worked fine when the barreled action was in a Mcrees chassis but isn't working now?
The 3" works fine if you don't wrap it up like a pig in a blanket LOL!
I just cut a business card in half and slide em in between the wrench flats and action.
No runs, No drips, No errors....
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Has anyone had issues with installing the muzzle brake on a Tac A1? I absolutely cannot get it tighten up. Basically the instructions say to tighten it all the way (this will not leave it indexed properly), then loosen it until it is correctly lined up (for me this is about 2/3 of a turn), then tighten the clamping screw on it. No matter how tight I get the screw, the brake is still loose.
Just in case it's this simple - are you trying to tighten the mirage band screw?
Maybe post a pic if its something that can be easily spotted here, and make sure you're tightening the right screw/s.
i used to have one on my stock rail and used Seekins/vortex 1.26” rings. I had plenty of clearance. You could definitely fit it with a 1.15”, maybe even 1” but I’m not positive. Depends how low you want it but I was comfortable with the 1.26”
Need some help. I am selling my TAC A1 chassis in the PX. I told the buyer the scope mount rail is included (still trying to get it off). But my question is will this rail fit a T3x chassis?
I would grab a KRG bravo sooner than later. So many options and more comfortable than the Tikka stock. Barely any weight gain either.
I don't know if it would be optimal. I am pretty sure the tac a1 rail is substantially taller than a normal t3x rail, to match up to the tac a1 handguard full pic rail. It "would" work but you will be putting your scope alot higher than if you ran a standard t3x base.
Good luck those things are sometimes are a pain to take off.
This is my deer hunting rig. Tikka ctr 6.5 cm 20 inch.
Did you bought that TRG magazine for it?
In the old, the very first T3 models had that original TRG magazine.
TAC A1 super short, well not that short, but shorter than it was, when it left the factory gates last year 
Bought this chassis yesterday.
It´s funny, i bought this rifle in TAC A1, i sold that chassis, and now i have this same type of chassis on these same frames.
Will not leave it like this, since this 223rem is my son rifle.
I was thinking to do something with this TAC A1 chassis on up coming winter.
If i got money to buy a nother Tikka T3 or X action, maybe new barrel and so on, you know guys.
Id love to do a full, long range 260rem.
I really love that caliber.
One shop in Finland has T3 Varmint SS, 600mm barrel.
They would sell it to me 1100€.
I might get a 100-150€ of that stock, and etc comes with that.
So it would leave 950-1000€ for the action and trigger, problem is, that i dont have that kind of money.
And that is last they have, but 260rem rifles are not popular in Finland, so i dont think it is sold in a day or to, has been there for years.
Bought this chassis yesterday.
It´s funny, i bought this rifle in TAC A1, i sold that chassis, and now i have this same type of chassis on these same frames.
Will not leave it like this, since this 223rem is my son rifle.
I was thinking to do something with this TAC A1 chassis on up coming winter.
If i got money to buy a nother Tikka T3 or X action, maybe new barrel and so on, you know guys.
Id love to do a full, long range 260rem.
I really love that caliber.
One shop in Finland has T3 Varmint SS, 600mm barrel.
They would sell it to me 1100€.
I might get a 100-150€ of that stock, and etc comes with that.
So it would leave 950-1000€ for the action and trigger, problem is, that i dont have that kind of money.
And that is last they have, but 260rem rifles are not popular in Finland, so i dont think it is sold in a day or to, has been there for years.
Need help getting a barrel off my T3 action. what action wrench ,I have one for Rem/Savage but don't think it fits the Tikka. I did start cutting a relief cut in the barrel with a grinder wheel (no lathe here) and had the barrel in a normal bench vise.
Any tips?
Any tips?
I bought this rifle used and this is the mag that came with it. I think its a CTR mag but I could be wrong.
Lots of posts in here with success stories on this. Here’s what I did. Used Brownells Universal action wrench. It will fit over the action externally. Try it different ways until it fits. Tighten down. Have barrel very tight in vise, use something around the OD of the barrel that goes in the code to prevent slipping, some guys use sheets of copy paper, I used brown sugar. I used a 3’ cheater pipe over the handle of the action wrench, whack it with a 4lb hammer. The impulse of the hammer whack is what will loosen it and then you just unscrew it.
You probably didn’t need the relief cut....
I have an action wrench that fits Rem and Savage, but couldn't get it to fit the Tikka. If there's a way to, I'm all ears. Maybe just use longer bolts in it to use the flat sides?
Figured the relief cut would help. Hopefully it will.
The early CTRs used TRG (sako) magazines, they changed the CTR mag to have a base on it that doesnt work with the TRG because the TRG is technically a military used rifle, therefore the mags were harder to ship internationally etc because it could be for a TRG.
I believe that’s the rifle you bought from me. It originally came with the new CTR mag but I had swapped it out for the TRG style mag so that’s what you got. Hope it’s shooting well for you!
That is a SAKO TRG 22 magazine, twice the value of CTR
Thanks, I basically arrived at 1.1. I'd definitely like to get it as low as possible. I'm actually hunting here on the Hide for a set.
Havnt checked in here in a while. 223 load development using 75 eldm. Mountain tactical mags are working awesome. .010 off the lands 2.4” coal. These mags make me excited for a re barrel, so much for tikkas all having long throats. My 223 could use a bit more throat for these long bullets. 2800fps at my accurate/stable ES load, took it to 2925, case so full of Varget that I was getting some bullet Indentation from seating pressure on the powder. Slightly cratered primers but otherwise no other signs of pressure. This gun has been a hammer.
Yep this is the one and it shoots really good! Thanks for the magazine info!
I installed the X-Caliber barrel tonight, set the headspace, re-assembled the action, remounted the scope with taller rings and laser bore sighted it.
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Wheeler action wrench #1 fits perfectly. Turn the top half over to use the flat side.
mechforce vise (less than $100) does NOT slip. Use a wrap of computer paper around the barrel. No cheater pipe needed. No relief cut needed. Push down on the action wrench with one hand and hit the handle with a rubber mallet with the other and the barrel will pop right off. I didnt even use a rubber mallet. Hit the action wrench with the palm of my hand.
The same wrench works great on Sako TRG as well. Use the wrench as it comes. Do not flip the top half I did have to use the mallet on this one. Two to three medium power whacks and it was done. No cheater. No relief cut.
Does anyone know of 35mm rings that mount direct to the t3x action that have between 15-30 moa? I ordered a pic rail but would prefer to mount directly for weight savings. Ive looked down multiple dark alleys and can't seem to find anyone that makes them. Thanks!
I got the Rem/Savage action wrench to fit with the top piece turned around and longer bolts. And I only have a bench vise right now. Tried last night with sand paper and regular paper around the barrel tightened in the jaws, still twisted when I whacked the action wrench with my mallet. Going to try some wood blocks next.
If you can swing the $90 for the mechforce vice, you well be glad you did. I just use a piece of wood on the edes of the vice and c-clamp it to the table. You can tighten the vice up just snug and the barrel will not slip. Make sure to throw the piece of leather away that comes with it. It will make cause slippage. With a wrap or two of paper it wont slip or mark the action. This is a well built vice and is only the size of your fist.
If you use wood with your bench vice, make sure it is hardwood. Anything soft will just crack and deform causing your barrel to slip.
I could swing it, just was trying not to since it'll be the only time I'll use it more than likely. I'll try some wood blocks and if they don't work, I'll order that vise.
Well...here is my CTR. 260 Rem, 20" barrel, Boyd's At-One thumbhole.
I have a question. I'm looking down the road to build a magnum hunting rifle. 22" 7mm mag or some such. I'd like to use a Tikka T3 or T3x for the action with a Proof CF barrel or maybe just a light weight stainless barrel. What's got me duped is stock and bottom metal options for the L/A cartridges.
How does the long action bottom metal on these "work"? Factory mags? AICS? plastic or aluminum factory or aftermarket bottom metal? Such a thing as a blind magazine (M700 ADL equivalent)?
I'm thinking a manners EH variant for the stock. Thanks for any insight. I've always appreciated the Tikkas just never got one or dug too deep into them.
How does the long action bottom metal on these "work"? Factory mags? AICS? plastic or aluminum factory or aftermarket bottom metal? Such a thing as a blind magazine (M700 ADL equivalent)?
I'm thinking a manners EH variant for the stock. Thanks for any insight. I've always appreciated the Tikkas just never got one or dug too deep into them.
Im researching the same thing right now. Im planning to build a 7 saum though, so I am anticipating being happy with the mid length action of the Tikka. From what Ive learned so far, if you are looking to do a detachable bottom metal with longer magazines there are options but you will need a dremel and a rasp and go to town on your action. Much fewer options compared to rem700 actions. In my mind the aftermarket kits for extending the coal capacity of the action makes it difficult to be attractive for hunting, but competitions might be ok.
Beautiful can be also accurate.
0.23MOA 5-shots 100-meters.
69gr Lapua Scenar Vihtavuori N135 25,1gr.
0.23MOA 5-shots 100-meters.
69gr Lapua Scenar Vihtavuori N135 25,1gr.
https://www.24hourcampfire.com/ubbt...opics/10902861/Tikka_Magazine_COAL_Limitation
^^^Looks like you may be in luck^^^
Check out this thread from another forum
Mountain Tactical
High Desert Rifle Works
Atlasworx-Austrailia
All of them have Tikka T3/T3X replacement bottom metals that work with the factory plastic magazines and some of them have billet mags to replace the plastic OEM magazine .
Tikka handles and shoots SAAMI spec'd factory 300WM ammo just the way it was designed to do.
Hornady 300 WM 200 Gr ELDX......
If you need longer then you'll be looking at other BDM's that can take AICS long action mags for Tikka's and most of them avg. around the 3.50 length range.....
what he saidExcellent! Thank you for the information.
I'm fine using the factory Tikka magazines. For a hunting rifle I'm not looking to do anything exotic with extra long C.O.A.L. I'm thinking a Proof Carbon barrel at 22", a Manners EHT or PRS1T, the above mentioned aluminum bottom metal, TBAC Ultra 5 and a Vortex HD LHT ought to work wonders. Might make 2021 hunting season, 2022 if not.
I'm fine using the factory Tikka magazines. For a hunting rifle I'm not looking to do anything exotic with extra long C.O.A.L. I'm thinking a Proof Carbon barrel at 22", a Manners EHT or PRS1T, the above mentioned aluminum bottom metal, TBAC Ultra 5 and a Vortex HD LHT ought to work wonders. Might make 2021 hunting season, 2022 if not.
If you reload and are looking at the 7 rem mag the short mag cartridges seem to be the beez kneez. I just ordered a 7rm from grabagun and am planning on using to build a 7 saum and keeping the original barrel tucked away in case I run into a tight spot with components and need to spin the old girl back on for off the shelf ammo...Food for thought.
Also, what weight are you trying to hit with this gun? Im trying to stay under 9 but am having a hard time with a similar wish list as what you just layed out. With a mark 5 scope my weight is looking like it might be over 10.5lbs. Ive never built a gun before so I dont know how it will shake out. I was looking for a titanium action or a defiance AnTi to save a half pound in weight, but decided the tikka was the right way to go for my first build.
Also, what weight are you trying to hit with this gun? Im trying to stay under 9 but am having a hard time with a similar wish list as what you just layed out. With a mark 5 scope my weight is looking like it might be over 10.5lbs. Ive never built a gun before so I dont know how it will shake out. I was looking for a titanium action or a defiance AnTi to save a half pound in weight, but decided the tikka was the right way to go for my first build.
They never end up as light as you want. I'm going to say if I could keep it loaded with a can under 11-12lb I'd be happy. There comes a point where ditching muzzle threads and CF barrels and just going with a sporter contour stainless barrel is how a guy has to cut weight, and the same goes for adjustable cheek hardware and vertical grip stocks. Adjustable cheek pieces are 1.5-2.5lb alone because the butt has denser fill. I'm not dead set on anything yet, and have plenty of time to double back on my initial thoughts
I am definitely finding this out to be true. I want all my cake and want to eat it too. Bartlein just announced a new proprietary steel they developed and can significantly increase the barrel life, as well as spin up carbon fiber barrels in the same. Their weight estimates are higher than proof prefits but might be from weighed blanks so I think it will be comparable once they are chambered...hopefully. If not my weight went up even more!They never end up as light as you want. I'm going to say if I could keep it loaded with a can under 11-12lb I'd be happy. There comes a point where ditching muzzle threads and CF barrels and just going with a sporter contour stainless barrel is how a guy has to cut weight, and the same goes for adjustable cheek hardware and vertical grip stocks. Adjustable cheek pieces are 1.5-2.5lb alone because the butt has denser fill. I'm not dead set on anything yet, and have plenty of time to double back on my initial thoughts
