Tikka T3 Thread

Looking for a new stock/chassis for my 20" T3 Varmint in .223. Mostly target shooting, possibly some coyote/prairie dog hunting.

I'd like something a little off the beaten path and I think I'd like it to take CTR mags. Are any of the GRS models solid? I'd read somewhere they weren't much more rigid than the Tikka factory stocks, but hard to rely too much on a single online review.

Thanks.
 
Looking for a new stock/chassis for my 20" T3 Varmint in .223. Mostly target shooting, possibly some coyote/prairie dog hunting.

I'd like something a little off the beaten path and I think I'd like it to take CTR mags. Are any of the GRS models solid? I'd read somewhere they weren't much more rigid than the Tikka factory stocks, but hard to rely too much on a single online review.

Thanks.
Off the beaten path go for a bravo with the Vision gen 1 fore end. Bonus is the Vision part is on sale.

Bonus gcp does cool cerakote. Look up @BLKWLFK9 stuff. I think he has a vision forend on his Tikka and his vision Chassis on his AI looks cool.
 
Wife killing it with the .308! 1.5” groups of the tripod standing at 100y and 4” at 300y. And like a retard, I did t take pics of the groups 🤦🏻‍♂️. Really liking this Tikka.

Liked the Remington 700P’s I’ve had Especially the older one, but I don’t see me going back to Remington any time soon.

Two targets under the arrow. 10” gong and an IDPA with B8s
 

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Or modern 30 cals like 300 PRC. Bergara does a great one. Why not Tikka? A sweet 28” barreled heavy contour barrel on a Tikka action?! I’d be all over that! They JUST came out w the 6.5 PRC w a 24” but no 26” barrel…. Missed opportunities!

Maybe it doesn't do the 300 PRC as it won't fit in a tikka magazine. 3.56 is max. :) Name one factory option with a heavy contour 28 inch barrel. I've got a Savage .223 in a 30 inch full bull factory barrel. Can't think of any others that do one.
 
Obviously I haven’t tried one and wouldn’t because I see issues with the design
It needs a longer forend, less drop at both heel and comb, the angle on the bottom of the butt stock is too steep and the cheek riser should be a bit longer
Not being nasty, just stating what I see
 
Thanks for your opinion, I take this type of critique seriously and look at these points in future designs. Shorter forend is to cater for 16" barrels with over barrel suppressors which is a common combination in Europe. Not many left here that shoot without suppressor. Our previous model had a slightly longer forend which I preferred although this one is at least as long as original T Lite factory stock. The drop of the comb is to cater for bolt removal with cheek raiser in down position without the need to cut out sections of the cheek raiser or the stock. We have this stock design for Rem 700, Heym SR30/SR21 as well as T3. I hunt mainly and quite like the steep angle on the bottom of the butt stock as it gives more upward travel when moving a rear prop back and forth in hunting conditions, I often just use the bino's. Comb angle and heel, Recoil pad size/position are exactly the same as on our E-Tac stocks that have proven themselves over many years also in international matches. 6 were entered in the Precision Rifle World championship last week in Bitche France. (congrats to Team USA)

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edi
 
Looking for a new stock/chassis for my 20" T3 Varmint in .223. Mostly target shooting, possibly some coyote/prairie dog hunting.

I'd like something a little off the beaten path and I think I'd like it to take CTR mags. Are any of the GRS models solid? I'd read somewhere they weren't much more rigid than the Tikka factory stocks, but hard to rely too much on a single online review.

Thanks.
Take a look at the German Gun Stock offerings. They have several models to choose from and they all have an aluminum mini-chassis. I like the Reaper and Ranger for hunting. I used the Reaper for an NRL Hunter match. They have a Veloci-Raptor that is more of a competition stock.

The first two are the Ranger, the other is the Reaper. I added the Area419 rail to the reaper. Their competition version has M-Lock slots on the forend. I had them inlet for CTR bottom metal and I use Mountain Tactical CTR/AICS bottom metal when for my 223 and 22BR/6Dasher.
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Take a look at the German Gun Stock offerings. They have several models to choose from and they all have an aluminum mini-chassis. I like the Reaper and Ranger for hunting. I used the Reaper for an NRL Hunter match. They have a Veloci-Raptor that is more of a competition stock.

The first two are the Ranger, the other is the Reaper. I added the Area419 rail to the reaper. Their competition version has M-Lock slots on the forend. I had them inlet for CTR bottom metal and I use Mountain Tactical CTR/AICS bottom metal when for my 223 and 22BR/6Dasher.
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A few more of the Reaper with a 223 Varmint and my 18" 6.5 Creed with a medium palma Bartlein. I used a 28" heavy palma for the NRL Hunter match.
 
Now that looks to be a nice design
Thanks for your opinion, I take this type of critique seriously and look at these points in future designs. Shorter forend is to cater for 16" barrels with over barrel suppressors which is a common combination in Europe. Not many left here that shoot without suppressor. Our previous model had a slightly longer forend which I preferred although this one is at least as long as original T Lite factory stock. The drop of the comb is to cater for bolt removal with cheek raiser in down position without the need to cut out sections of the cheek raiser or the stock. We have this stock design for Rem 700, Heym SR30/SR21 as well as T3. I hunt mainly and quite like the steep angle on the bottom of the butt stock as it gives more upward travel when moving a rear prop back and forth in hunting conditions, I often just use the bino's. Comb angle and heel, Recoil pad size/position are exactly the same as on our E-Tac stocks that have proven themselves over many years also in international matches. 6 were entered in the Precision Rifle World championship last week in Bitche France. (congrats to Team USA)

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edi
I get where you are coming from about the sharp angle on the butt for elevation adjustment in the field
The problem with that is under recoil the butt is driven back and down before the bullet leaves the barrel resulting in vertical dispersion and this is compounded by the butt dropping out of the shoulder pocket due to the centreline of the butt being too low
 
Now that looks to be a nice design

I get where you are coming from about the sharp angle on the butt for elevation adjustment in the field
The problem with that is under recoil the butt is driven back and down before the bullet leaves the barrel resulting in vertical dispersion and this is compounded by the butt dropping out of the shoulder pocket due to the centreline of the butt being too low
A rifle of this type in this stock with Lite barrel 20" in 308 with 150gr bullet moves ~2mm back before the bullet is out of the barrel. In Theorie you could be right that the launch angle can change however I believe the rifles COG/Centre Mass is more important to reduce launch angle change. Under recoil the rifle rotates around the COG. I have used stocks like in the picture for a couple years now and taken small Sika calves 614m furthest/ 1.5m closest , fox 550m /2m closest, crow 435m etc. This eve a fox at 240m. The design of this stock is thought as a compromise for the traditional hunter who wants to upgrade to higher mag scopes, slightly steeper pistol grip and still looks like a "stock". Use a tactical type stock in some Euro hunts and you will never get another invite.
edi
 
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Can someone tell me the diameter of the T3X receiver between the flats and between the corners?

I figure based on most of the barrel shank diameters the flats are 1.19-1.20. Do not have an receiver in hand yet but want to get the barrel ordered.

I am wanting to use a barrel shank the diameter of the corners and mill the barrel to continue the receiver flats onto the barrel shank. (Of course after milling the radius off the front of the action.) Think it will give it a good look and as it will be chambered for WSM the extra steel will not hurt as its a .375 cal.
 
Greetings to all,

I have been around but no posts since i have not had the means to enter this wonderful world. Well as it stands i am about ready to pull the trigger as they say and my choice was a tikka t3x supervarmint chambered in .308w that i will use for hunting from stands and target plinking(mostly plinking) now just about when i decided i found out they are offering the following

TIKKA T3X SUPER VARMINT GRTECH, cal.308 Win​


now trying to find out what is "GRTECH" in that. Is it cerakote finishing on a ss barrel? or stock material it is covered in? Or something completely different?

The shop i called could not really give me a definite answer so i am hoping some of you here might be able to help.

If i am not mistaken it has a 2 stage trigger, 24" barrel, threaded, adjustable cheek piece.

Thank you
 

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Greetings to all,

I have been around but no posts since i have not had the means to enter this wonderful world. Well as it stands i am about ready to pull the trigger as they say and my choice was a tikka t3x supervarmint chambered in .308w that i will use for hunting from stands and target plinking(mostly plinking) now just about when i decided i found out they are offering the following

TIKKA T3X SUPER VARMINT GRTECH, cal.308 Win​


now trying to find out what is "GRTECH" in that. Is it cerakote finishing on a ss barrel? or stock material it is covered in? Or something completely different?

The shop i called could not really give me a definite answer so i am hoping some of you here might be able to help.

If i am not mistaken it has a 2 stage trigger, 24" barrel, threaded, adjustable cheek piece.

Thank you
Stock is Green Roughtech finish....
 
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We have built many custom stocks for the T3 with Atlasworx long action mag system for the 3.715 300wm AI type magazines. It is tight and not easy to fit. Cut a small notch in the feed ramp and you can use full mag length.

edi


I can confirm with the Atlisworx. Without cutting the notch in the feed ramp I can get 3.570 OAL rounds to feed for me. The bottom metal was a little tight and I did have to do some fitting but it all came out great in the end. I decided on a 7RM over a 28 Nosler build because of the limited length but now I wonder if It was doable. I am still able to send my 195s out at 2900 fps with no issues and half moa groups so I am pretty happy.
 
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Does anyone know the weight of a lite or superlite 22" barrel?
Don't have weight but I do have measurements of a 24"lite.

Diameter in inches, distance back from muzzle (length)
Muzzle .616, 0 (24.33)
.620, 1.358 (23)
.630, 2.57 (21.75)
.640, 3.81 (20.5)
.650, 5.05 (19.25)
.660, 6.27 (18.06)
Recommended od for 9/16 shoulder .662, 6.625 (17.7)
0.673, 8.08 (16.25)

Beyond this point has to be registered as an SBR
At front of tupperware 0.711 (11)
Recommended od for 5/8 0.725 (9.33)
 
OK, an update from prefit hell (not really). Spoke with Proof, since it was below SAAMI max they didn't see a huge issue with it, provided it was performing. So I shot it today, 60 rounds. No issues w accuracy, 5 round groups yielding a 0.48 average so I'm happy for now. It did seem to group really well for 3-4 rounds (0.25-0.3MOA) and have one flyer, but I'll put that on me. Going to chrono around 100 rounds, apparently these barrels speed up around there and may see some accuracy improvements. Hoping for 2700-2750fps out of my 22" barrel.

With the Proof barrel in the Spuhr chassis, she's sitting at 14.8# loaded with 12 rounds as pictured here. Definitely happy with where things shook out overall with my first deep dive into bolt guns.

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That is one good looking setup!
 
That is one good looking setup!
Thanks man. Just got back from a MDS 2 day course with Phillip and Ryan of Achilles Heel Tactical. Things worked really well, was fortunate to win top shot among a bunch of studs, and I learned a ton.

I had used the factory chassis in a similar course in May on the exact same range so I was interested to wring out the new setup. The rapid adjustment on the LOP was a definite improvement for the varied positions we shot from, and the large barricade stop on the magwell provided enough standoff on things like corrugated barrels, even with AICS 12 round magazines. The bag rider is also a great design, that 'notch' being up front allows you to have your forearms perpendicular to the gun (helps keep me squared up) while building that bridge and getting even pressure rearward.

Full arca, longer enclosed forend, and lower rail/optic mount all yielded obvious advantages as well. Not in love with the cheek piece but it's better than stock. All in all, huge improvement over factory chassis.

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Are 5 round groups with a Lite realistic or does it really start to heat up and start stringing after 3? Looking at a 22-250 for coyote hunting. Yes, I know its a hunting barrel and "If you have to take more than 2 you are a bad shooter". However, we get doubles and triples on coyotes, so its a realistic scenario to some degree.
 
I shoot this very rifle same cal it is my go to coyote rifle at the bench 5 shot groups start to wonder a bit but I dont feel like its enough for a miss inside 200.I am shooting 52 grain sierra hand loads and it holds within min of coyote at 5 shots.
You will appreciate that lite rifle if you hike a lot!
 
Are 5 round groups with a Lite realistic or does it really start to heat up and start stringing after 3? Looking at a 22-250 for coyote hunting. Yes, I know its a hunting barrel and "If you have to take more than 2 you are a bad shooter". However, we get doubles and triples on coyotes, so its a realistic scenario to some degree.
I too shoot the 22-250, Tikka lite.. I have great success with 55 grain and H380,,,, the rifle shoots 1-3 rounds without any problem out to 300 yds. .. I haven’t a need to shoot any futher, great rifle!!!
 
1:14 twist I’m assuming?
I believe you are correct…. I have shot several rounds thru this rifle,, both factory and hand loads,,,, the 55 grain really preforms great late in the season, when the coyote rut is on,, the larger males are muscled up,, necks are big and tough,, fight is on,,, I have some target pics somewhere,,, I have posted pics of my kills on the hunting thread,,, last year was not good for me,, laid up with a little health issue… put fresh as a daisy now and ready for the season… sorry for the long rant,,, Tikka is my go to rifles!! Back to Bolt Rifles!!!’
 
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How long do you guys let the barrel cool between groups? (Lite barrels) I normally do 3 shots wait 5min or so. Or one shot a min..
When I am on the bench with a load I am working on, I like to take my time between shots, Pretty cool barrel…,, my hunting shots are cold bore 100 percent,, I harvest all my coyotes when it is cold,, colder the better… most of my bench work is looking at a new bullet,,,,, rifle and Leupold scope stay pretty consistent…. I don’t see that much variation in shot to shot,,, it is a hunting rifle….it gets the job done very well or I would not be using a Tikka,,,, I just recently purchased a CTR 223, I just have not had time to get it up and running,,, it will not take the place of my 22-250.. I will use it as a night set up on bobcats. hopefully… Charlie112
 
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I have a Tikka question for the tikka experts, will a standard T3X 308 drop right into a 308 T3X CTR factory stock with the factory 10round magazine bottom metal and bolt right in and function with the factory 308 CTR mags?
 
I have a Tikka question for the tikka experts, will a standard T3X 308 drop right into a 308 T3X CTR factory stock with the factory 10round magazine bottom metal and bolt right in and function with the factory 308 CTR mags?
Sort of. You’ll need to remove the trigger and takeoff the mag spring and a bolt stop from CTR or just file down the one you have
 
From the grip-forward, I love that chassis. I just can't seem to get on board with the buttstock. Glad it's working for you. I bet it feels great on a barricade.
So far I've had it on a: barricade (wood), tire, corrugated pipe, on a railing, through a window, on a car hood, and off a roof. It's been quick to get into position and comfortable pretty much anywhere. Sitting at 15.2 with the new optic so it's still easy to maneuver but heavy enough to be solid.

The stock is different for sure, like I said on the last page I like that forward 'notch' as it keeps me square and I'm not reaching my support hand to the back of the stock or relying 100% on my rear bag to be pushing back/up on the stock.

Here's another look at the back end. This is typically where I have my bag, support hand can get on the stock in a forward position (in that notch) and can also control the bag easily which offers a ton of support on the long bag rider, filling the negative space.

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Hello everyone! First post. Starting my long range shooting journey with a stock Tikka T3x CTR in 6.5 Creedmoor. First purchases obviously, need to be a scope and rings. Looking at a Primary Arms plx5-6-30x56mm scope. Really like the ACSS reticle. Even a noob like me can figure out how to use it. My question is, what height of scope rings should I purchase? Half of 56mm is 28mm which is 1.10 inches. Most medium height rings are 1 inch. Most high rings are 1.25 inches. Is there enough contour of rail to barrel for clearance for the medium or do I need to go high? Here is list and order of ostensible upgrades I am considering. Looking for quality components at a reasonable price. All constructive criticism is welcome.

  • Scope Primary Arms plx5-6-30x56mm scope
  • Steiner T-series or American Rifle M-Brace rings
  • Harris S-BRM bipod
  • KRG X-ray chassis
  • Area 419 Hellfire muzzle brake
  • Silencer Central Banish 30 suppressor
Scope, rings and bipod are sooner rather than later purchases. The rest are as resources are available. Thoughts?

Thanks!
Scott
 
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Hello everyone! First post. Starting my long range shooting journey with a stock Tikka T3x CTR in 6.5 Creedmoor. First purchases obviously, need to be a scope and rings. Looking at a Primary Arms plx5-6-30x56mm scope. Really like the ACSS reticle. Even a noob like me can figure out how to use it. My question is, what height of scope rings should I purchase? Half of 56mm is 28mm which is 1.10 inches. Most medium height rings are 1 inch. Most high rings are 1.25 inches. Is there enough contour of rail to barrel for clearance for the medium or do I need to go high? Here is list and order of ostensible upgrades I am considering. Looking for quality components at a reasonable price. All constructive criticism is welcome.

  • Scope Primary Arms plx5-6-30x56mm scope
  • Steiner T-series or American Rifle M-Brace rings
  • Harris S-BRM bipod
  • KRG X-ray chassis
  • Area 419 Hellfire muzzle brake
  • Silencer Central Banish 30 suppressor
Scope, rings and bipod are sooner rather than later purchases. The rest are as resources are available. Thoughts?

Thanks!
Scott
You can’t go off of the 56mm, the OD of the scope will be more than that. I believe 1.25” will clear with the added height of the pic rail. If it’s high it’s ok because of the cheek piece in the X-Ray. But you can’t fix to low.

Edit: for the price of that scope I would go with a used razor or mk5
 
Hello everyone! First post. Starting my long range shooting journey with a stock Tikka T3x CTR in 6.5 Creedmoor. First purchases obviously, need to be a scope and rings. Looking at a Primary Arms plx5-6-30x56mm scope. Really like the ACSS reticle. Even a noob like me can figure out how to use it. My question is, what height of scope rings should I purchase? Half of 56mm is 28mm which is 1.10 inches. Most medium height rings are 1 inch. Most high rings are 1.25 inches. Is there enough contour of rail to barrel for clearance for the medium or do I need to go high? Here is list and order of ostensible upgrades I am considering. Looking for quality components at a reasonable price. All constructive criticism is welcome.

  • Scope Primary Arms plx5-6-30x56mm scope
  • Steiner T-series or American Rifle M-Brace rings
  • Harris S-BRM bipod
  • KRG X-ray chassis
  • Area 419 Hellfire muzzle brake
  • Silencer Central Banish 30 suppressor
Scope, rings and bipod are sooner rather than later purchases. The rest are as resources are available. Thoughts?

Thanks!
Scott
IIRC, I used a Spuhr 4601 w/ that scope on my TacA1.
 
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I have a Tikka T3 .270 that I am wanting to rebarrel for an all around deer/elk rifle. I’m leaning towards the 280ai from my reading so far. I plan to shoot it suppressed the majority of the time. Is this the caliber you all would recommend? Who makes the best stainless prefit for the T3?
 
I have a Tikka T3 .270 that I am wanting to rebarrel for an all around deer/elk rifle. I’m leaning towards the 280ai from my reading so far. I plan to shoot it suppressed the majority of the time. Is this the caliber you all would recommend? Who makes the best stainless prefit for the T3?

I'd do just what I did, a 7 SAUM. Have it throated for 180 grain length bullets. Still working up a load, first good accuracy node was 2810 and no pressure, should be about 2900 when I'm done. Might look at the upcoming 7PRC since Hornady will be making factory ammo for it. https://www.snipershide.com/shootin...ghts-especially-on-the-action-length.7129758/
 
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