The barrel & barrel nut is 2lbs - 2oz. I actually did weigh it individually. I'll attach my list of parts, I apologize its a little convoluted now since I've changed a few things. Honestly, I've only shot it once without the suppressor as a test fire when I put the new barrel on. It's certainly loud, with earplugs it's ok, I wouldn't want to shoot it lot. But I refuse to shoot un-suppressed anymore lol.
Interesting! Maybe worth a try then, I have a Tikka action wrench so it should up to the task.
I used an external wrench to remove it and then a tikka internal to install….Interesting! Maybe worth a try then, I have a Tikka action wrench so it should up to the task.
Barrel landed, very excited.
I would not recommend an internal wrench for the initial breaking off of the factory barrel, you might destroy that wrench. Get a wheeler external wrench. Once you get it off, you can use the internal for any future barrel changes. New barrel will be fine between 80-100 ft/lbs. Also get a go-gauge to ensure the new barrel is headspaced properly. Put a piece of scotch tape on the back of the go-gauge to make it a no-go gauge. It's about 2 thou for 1 layer of tape, and 4-5 thou for 2 layers. I used a proof prefit as well.Interesting! Maybe worth a try then, I have a Tikka action wrench so it should up to the task.
Barrel landed, very excited.
Just of note, I have 50mm obj as well and 1.5 20moa cleared for me on factory chassis but was so tight that I couldn't thread the front cap on (hinge would hit the rail).
Oh no. I went up less 195 grains in the bolt knob. Now my bolt lift will be so heavy. Not sure how I can lift it. /sarc
T3x actions are all the same. T1x will need some modifications. If the chassis lists t3 it will fit. Some chassis won't fit the KRG midas without slight modifications.
That's what I thought I remembered reading.
No worries. I do think the purpose of the rifle comes into play. All the heavier 69-70 stuff is reportedly marginal at 10 inch twist. so it comes down to trying again with 50-55gr or makign a tough call to rebarrel a rifle.
bergerbullets.com
That’s kind of like asking has anyone tried mustard on a hotdog
. Yes 140gr eldms are great. Kinda one of the standards for factory loads. Also Bergers are great if you can find them. They should shoot great out of the t3x. That said w a 20” barrel don’t expect super fast velocities, the tikkas are known to be slow… but very accurate, sub MOA (.5 if not better). I have a lot of experience handloading 308. I have not loaded 6.5 yet. The Hornady I have stockpiled did shoot well out of my 24" Savage BA Stealth. I was curious if the 140s would shoot sub .75 with the shorter barrel or do better with 130s. I saw a lot of stuff about the 16" sig cross shooting all over the place with factory loads then going Gucci with some hand loads.That’s kind of like asking has anyone tried mustard on a hotdog
For 1000, 140 eldms or berger long range at 140 or 144, and h4350 but loaded to and for your chamber. Do you hand load?
That’s kind of like asking has anyone tried mustard on a hotdog
For 1000, 140 eldms and h4350 but loaded to and for your chamber. Do you hand load?
I was shooting factory 140s from my tikka t3x w a 20” at around .5 MOA easily. They’ll do great. I also had them out to a 1000 so much trouble too. You should do great with them. Like I said, they won’t be as fast but they be accurate! Good luck! And if you ever want to go longer check out Patriot Valley Arms for prefit rebarrels! Spin the old 20” off (with some work) and throw on a 26” pre fit at home! Then ya got a hunting barrel and a long range steel ringer
