Thanks for the detailed reply. Cost isn't much an issue, more than likely going with the Tikka.
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Do you have a CTR with the CTR stock, or aftermarket chassis?
If it with the ctr mag, try this.
Other vice it´s that magazine.
Frank did sayed that issue with Tikka vide.
Here's my problem:
Doesn't feed:
Feeds:
Note how the round spot welds in the front of the mag shows in the top picture. Upon examining the magazine, I don't find the follower to be out of place in any way. It's as if the magazine is too short along the axis of the cartridge, so that it can't rest against the walls of the magazine well without tilting forward.
Am I really the only one with this issue? It bugs me when I'm shooting, because the bullet will often get stuck along the way to the chamber...
Except for this weird fault, I love the gun. It's my main hunting rifle for the time being, as my old Sako is temporarily broken.
Doesn't feed:
Feeds:
Note how the round spot welds in the front of the mag shows in the top picture. Upon examining the magazine, I don't find the follower to be out of place in any way. It's as if the magazine is too short along the axis of the cartridge, so that it can't rest against the walls of the magazine well without tilting forward.
Am I really the only one with this issue? It bugs me when I'm shooting, because the bullet will often get stuck along the way to the chamber...
Except for this weird fault, I love the gun. It's my main hunting rifle for the time being, as my old Sako is temporarily broken.
Just from looking at your pictures I would say your not fully seated on your recoil lug loosen your action screws and rock your barrel/action back and forth till you feel the action "fully" seat down on the recoil lug. Some of them can be really tight and it takes some rocking as you press down to get them fully seated.
Had a Gen 1 RPR in 6.5. Sold it 5 months later and bought a Tikka. This is my 2nd Tikka and it’s currently getting a new barrel (I wanted more speed). If you want a turn key package for matches, buy the RPR. If you want something you can build off of, buy the Tikka. Both are accurate.
What is the best aics dbm for a ctr cut stock? My .300wsm project is getting an upgraded stock and dbm.
We manufacture carbon stocks with CTR inlet, for those who prefer AICS type we use Australian made Atlasworx AICS with CTR footprint mag systems. One inlet will take either CTR or the Atlasworxs floor plate.
We have sold many Atlasworx floor plates and have not had one come back or problem. Floor plates must be adjusted right or fit properly other wise they don't function reliably, that is the biggest problem with any mag system that relies on stock height and angle being correct.
my CTR with Atlasworx and MDT 9 shot 308 mag
edi
Had anyone heard any intel on a LEFT HAND Tikka CTR in 6.5CM coming to US distribution/retailers...?
I see the Tac A1 is available LH now, but I don’t want to spend $1800.
I’ve been weighing re-barreling my LH T3 in 30-06 for some time and building up to a precision rifle, but I just can’t bring myself to dismantle such a good hunting rifle.
I see the Tac A1 is available LH now, but I don’t want to spend $1800.
I’ve been weighing re-barreling my LH T3 in 30-06 for some time and building up to a precision rifle, but I just can’t bring myself to dismantle such a good hunting rifle.
JGR was spotting it right.
You have removed your stock off one point, and when you have put it back together, you have not seated it right,
That over pressure hole is closer to the stock, your front is not seating properly.
Loosen both screws, and set it up right, you can see, are your action seated right, when you look in the action from magazien weld.
Precision to the game
Check this picture, and you see, how close to stock that hole is.
I got the hunting rifle together just need to sight it in. I had to sand a lil on the left side to free float it. The three action screws were maybe at 15in pounds. The forward most one was barely in at all. Do any of you know the correct torque for three action screws? Gun is a CTR 6.5 right out of the box.
Thank you!
There is only two action screws and they are the front and back holes of the trigger guard plate.
That front screw is for attaching the optional wide fore grip.
I would keep the action screws at a max of 45 In/Lbs,there is no need to take them tighter than that on the factory stock.
Thank you! That would explain the big difference in that front screw....
I pre-ordered the new MDT vertical grip a few weeks back and it came in yesterday.
Setup is a cerakoted CTR action (blot fluted) in an MDT HS3, which I have modified with a barricade stop in front of the magwell and a cheapo Amazon Acra rail up front. Still need to trim the rail to integrate better. The new grip is not a perfect fit for this chassis. I posted first impressions HERE as well.
Going to run this setup until the ACC chassis is available in a Tikka inlet.
Setup is a cerakoted CTR action (blot fluted) in an MDT HS3, which I have modified with a barricade stop in front of the magwell and a cheapo Amazon Acra rail up front. Still need to trim the rail to integrate better. The new grip is not a perfect fit for this chassis. I posted first impressions HERE as well.
Going to run this setup until the ACC chassis is available in a Tikka inlet.
Is that a tango 6 4-24 and how are you liking that scope in comparison to your other ones?
Does it compare in any way to the 2nd Gen Razor?
I pre-ordered the new MDT vertical grip a few weeks back and it came in yesterday.
Setup is a cerakoted CTR action (blot fluted) in an MDT HS3, which I have modified with a barricade stop in front of the magwell and a cheapo Amazon Acra rail up front. Still need to trim the rail to integrate better. The new grip is not a perfect fit for this chassis. I posted first impressions HERE as well.
Going to run this setup until the ACC chassis is available in a Tikka inlet.
So that vertical grip can be used in every ar style mounted grip?
Is it rubberized?
MAN, I think i want this
It was a Tango 6 but it was 5-30x56 model. Nice scopes, they are made by LOW, just like the Gen 2 Razors. I would say they are very comparable to each other. Glass in the Tango 6 is very nice, turrets and tracking are good, and they have a nice mag range. The one downside to both of them is really size/weight - they are both massive.
I would go with whichever one you can find for cheaper. I personally love the DEV-L reticle, so that also played a factor in my decision.
I’ve since sold both of those optics so I can move to new MSR2 optics but wouldn’t otherwise be upset to go back to either the Tango 6 or Gen 2.
So that vertical grip can be used in every ar style mounted grip?
Is it rubberized?
MAN, I think i want this
They are not perfect fits on anything other than MPA. I had one on a McRee chassis but it required some modification.
I’ve got several long action builds on tikka actions using our (RedSnake Tactical) AICS long action bottom metal — a 280ai and 30 Nosler done by ZG Customs and a 7mm Rem Mag built by Alamo Precision. Will fit in factory stocks and McMillan and Manners offer our inlet as well.
Very nice! Did your actions require any modification in order get the mag systems to work and/or feed longer COALs?
I have seen in a few places that Tikka actions can only feed up to ~3.500” without notching the feed ramps or modification to the trigger housing. Any truth to this?
So that vertical grip can be used in every ar style mounted grip?
Is it rubberized?
MAN, I think i want this
Yes and no. I think I linked to a short write up I did on the grip on the Tikka and an AR-10. Short answer, it’s not great on an AR.
Our DBM does not require any modification of the feed ramp or trigger housing and allows an OAL of 3.5”. To get more than that you’d have to notch the feed ramp.
I tried taking it apart and putting it back together after reading JGR's post. Couldn't get it any tighter, but I tried again just now when I saw that you were of the same opinion.
Now the bottom of the hole is tangential to the top ridge of the stock, just like in your pictures. It's really a good 2-4 mm tighter now than before, even though the screws felt completely bottomed out. You guys were completely right about the wiggling when you seat the action in the stock. The mag still wiggles and rattles a bit but the possible up/down travel is noticably less and it feeds perfectly.
I guess I now have a good idea of why accuracy was kinda mediocre during my ladder testing... Oh well, at least I did not shoot the chrono.
Now the bottom of the hole is tangential to the top ridge of the stock, just like in your pictures. It's really a good 2-4 mm tighter now than before, even though the screws felt completely bottomed out. You guys were completely right about the wiggling when you seat the action in the stock. The mag still wiggles and rattles a bit but the possible up/down travel is noticably less and it feeds perfectly.
I guess I now have a good idea of why accuracy was kinda mediocre during my ladder testing... Oh well, at least I did not shoot the chrono.
JGR was spotting it right.
You have removed your stock off one point, and when you have put it back together, you have not seated it right,
That over pressure hole is closer to the stock, your front is not seating properly.
Loosen both screws, and set it up right, you can see, are your action seated right, when you look in the action from magazien weld.
Precision to the game
Check this picture, and you see, how close to stock that hole is.
Hey Schmidt... is your barrel 0.630" diameter at the muzzle? I assume there is enough of a shoulder to bottom out the can to the barrel?
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![20181025_183818[1].jpg](/shooting/data/attachments/149/149434-7657b84ea8ea1b3d58e740dfa20c700b.jpg)
Are you going to stick the Vortex in between the red dot and the rifle, or are you leaving it like that?
I went and put about 25 rounds down the new CTR today. If you run the bolt hard the round barely falls out (ejects) and rolls out. If you run it slow it will not eject out of the chamber. Has anyone ran into this? I have not tried my Tac A1 bolt in it yet to rule anything out. But my Tac will fling the round out?
Try disassembling the bolt and cleaning it. Also check to see if the brass is striking the scope turret upon ejection. If it is hitting the scope turret, it can give the impression that the rifle is not ejecting forcefully.
It was the nut on the scope mount hitting the brass. Another reason it is great to be a part of this community Thank you and Semper Fi brother!!
LMAO it was a joke; I have a Micro H1 laying around and figured I'd see what it looked like. Not a bad setup for a pencil barrel rifle, but not for a heavy barrel gun in a chassis.
What I was actually doing was replacing the 1.00" rings with 1.26" rings so I could move the scope back slightly and maybe add a clip on mount (still on the fence on that one). The chassis has an adjustable cheekrest height so the height over bore doesn't matter anyway.
Here's before and after:
Attachments
![20181025_182951[1].jpg](/shooting/data/attachments/149/149787-61b10e00121ee0f2e3c5c31e022fbd86.jpg)
![20181025_195912[1].jpg](/shooting/data/attachments/149/149788-cc030b889a36119d2f56fdf3421ef913.jpg)
Not T3 but the T1x can make a fantastic trainer rifle if fitted to your favourite custom T3 stock. It dropped right into my E-Tac4 CTR stock leaving a little gap left right in the CTR mag inlet.
edi
edi
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Hope this is the proper thread to ask...I have a tikka t3, in 22-250 that needs a new barrel. I was interested in mountain tactical but they are swamped and will not take anymore work. Any other good gunsmitting out there for the tikka's
Looking at picking up a Tikka Lite SS for a lightweight hunting build. Will be going in a Hi-Tec Composites stock, and will likely be rebarreled to .280AI in a few years when I step up from deer hunting to some larger animals. Im wondering about the recoil luv, whether to go with a Lumley Arms Titanium, or a Mountain Tac SS. The reason I ask is, will the Titanium deform over time? And is the weight savings of going Titanium worth it, or should I stick to the SS? This is meant to be an all weather gun, that I dont have to worry about should the weather turn.
I am so impressed with my Tac A1. Went out for load development over the weekend. 150 rounds expended, 2 bullets (143 eld-x, 140 RDF) 2 powders and varying overall length, largest 5 shot group was one inch, average just under 1/2". Several best groups were bug holes. It was just so consistent.
Hate loading those magazines though. Saved a couple of hot loads for 300 yards. Just under 2" with swirling 4-8 mph winds from 3:30.
Hate loading those magazines though. Saved a couple of hot loads for 300 yards. Just under 2" with swirling 4-8 mph winds from 3:30.
Don't know if titanium will deform over time, although I doubt it. As for the weight, the recoil lug is so small that you won't notice any difference. The stainless lug weighs about 20 grams. Go with whichever you feel comfortable with.
Just have to show off the newest member of the family. Bought off another Hide member...Specs are:
Tikka T3X action
26” PVA Prefit Rock Creek barrel (light palma contour) & Barrel Nut from PVA
Seekins Precision ATC brake
Elay Precision trigger spring (1.3 lb pull)
Sako green KRG Bravo with spigot mount
Atlas/ADM with HHC Talon feet
20 moa scope rail
ARC M10 scope rings
Vortex Razor HD Gen2 3-18 with ebr 2c mil reticle & SV-3 throw lever
Flatline Ops bubble level
So far it shoots awesome, but I’ll probably chop the barrel to 22” to make it a little less cumbersome for hunting. Next up is a titanium bolt shroud and bolt handle from Sterk.
Tikka T3X action
26” PVA Prefit Rock Creek barrel (light palma contour) & Barrel Nut from PVA
Seekins Precision ATC brake
Elay Precision trigger spring (1.3 lb pull)
Sako green KRG Bravo with spigot mount
Atlas/ADM with HHC Talon feet
20 moa scope rail
ARC M10 scope rings
Vortex Razor HD Gen2 3-18 with ebr 2c mil reticle & SV-3 throw lever
Flatline Ops bubble level
So far it shoots awesome, but I’ll probably chop the barrel to 22” to make it a little less cumbersome for hunting. Next up is a titanium bolt shroud and bolt handle from Sterk.
