Tikka T3 Thread

[Bpreiss1]

Being a Tikka has zero bearing on barrel life… it’s entirely cartridge and usage dependent.

308/223/non-magnum 6.5s will all easily do 2k+ rounds assuming you’re using normal ammo, shooting cadence, and cleaning intervals. Hot rod ammo, long strings of fire without letting the barrel cool, and/or subpar maintenance will all decrease barrel life.

And lastly, if a one-time investment of $500 in tools is a deterrent, chances are you won’t be shooting enough or swapping barrels enough for it to make a difference vs. just paying a gunsmith when you do…

Obviously being a Tikka has no bearing - I was saying that because Tikka’s are notorious for being extremely difficult to actually REMOVE the barrel. So - I was asking to find out how long it was going to be before I felt with that somewhat major issue with the rifle.
Thanks…. So it sounds like 2k with 6.5 should be about right.

 

[LeftyJason]

I thought 6.5 creed was more 2-5k. 308 up more 4-8k.

Cost in ammo is more bigger factor vs tools and new barrel to change it with.

Biggest thing I have seen from those successfully removing the barrel was that a deadblow hammer to the wrench was more important than straight torque.

 

[just browsing]

Obviously being a Tikka has no bearing - I was saying that because Tikka’s are notorious for being extremely difficult to actually REMOVE the barrel. So - I was asking to find out how long it was going to be before I felt with that somewhat major issue with the rifle.
Thanks…. So it sounds like 2k with 6.5 should be about right.

They can be a PITA if you’re trying to preserve the factory barrel, but with one that’s shot out it won’t make a difference anyway… Make a few relief cuts at the shoulder and they come right off.

But yes, 2k rounds with a 6.5 is very doable, if not a little conservative.

 

[CaptNemo]

Pulling an original barrel is a chore if you're trying to save the barrel.
The newer T3X's weren't as difficult as the older T3 that I have.
I have a Viper Bench Mount Barrel Vise and a Wheeler outside action wrench.
Pull the scope mount screws and squirt your favorite penetrating oil in the holes and use a propane torch as required.
Mount everything up, put a 3' cheater pipe on the Wheeler wrench, pre-load the cheater pipe and whack it with a heavy hammer. It'll come loose.

 

[david walter]

There's a "pulling the barrel" discussion a few pages back. I've done about ten. Here's the trick.

Set up the barrel in a vise with the barrel wrapped in a toilet paper or paper towel roll (the inside part made of cardboard that's left over when all the TP of paper towels are used up).

Action wrench, 3 foot cheater bar on the wrench. I use a piece of pipe I bought at home depot for this purpose.

Hard whack with a hammer IN THE TIGHTENING DIRECTION. This seems to break the static bond between the action and barrel. I got this from a thread on SNIPERSHIDE on this subject. I don't and haven't had to ever heat the action or the barrel.

Pull down on the cheater bar to loosen.

Reverse sequence to install a Tikka barrel on the action with a torque wrench set to 50 ft-lbs.

In my experience, any Tikka barrel will headspace on any Tikka action. The lettering might be off, but the GO and NO-GO gauges show headspace in tolerances.

Factory ammo will certainly chamber, and if you reload, neck sizing will maintain rifle-specific headspace.

 

[Jayjay1]

Barrel / caliber change in a CTR?

Hey guys,
I need your help and knowledge.

I´ve shot out my factory 24" 6.5 Creedmoor barrel, which sits in a KRG Bravo.
Because I´m now into hunting, I want not only to change my barrel but my caliber too.

I want a bit more of a punch and am hunting approx. out to 200yds, not very further really if at all.
As a reloader I thought about the 30-06, because you have a wide range of bullet weights and velocities.
But am thinking the 30-06 won´t fit the magazine?

With the barrel length I´m thinking of 20-22".

Which caliber would be a good choice for such a hunting rig and would fit into the CTR?

Your thoughts and wisdom will be very much appreciated.

 

[Eo12]

Barrel / caliber change in a CTR?

Hey guys,
I need your help and knowledge.

I´ve shot out my factory 24" 6.5 Creedmoor barrel, which sits in a KRG Bravo.
Because I´m now into hunting, I want not only to change my barrel but my caliber too.

I want a bit more of a punch and am hunting approx. out to 200yds, not very further really if at all.
As a reloader I thought about the 30-06, because you have a wide range of bullet weights and velocities.
But am thinking the 30-06 won´t fit the magazine?

With the barrel length I´m thinking of 20-22".

Which caliber would be a good choice for such a hunting rig and would fit into the CTR?

Your thoughts and wisdom will be very much appreciated.

For 200yds and under, the .308 would be a great option. Lots of factory ammo options and even more if you reload.

 

[Jayjay1]

For 200yds and under, the .308 would be a great option. Lots of factory ammo options and even more if you reload.

Well, yes, that´s why I´m having a 308 already (Strasser RS14).
Just, honestly, as a reloader I don´t really care to much about ammo availability, but yeah, bullet options are of course widespread in the 308 as well.

But first of all, does the CTR limit my options?
Because of the magazine, or because of other factors as well?
Which calibers will work in the CTR?

 

[Eo12]

Well, yes, that´s why I´m having a 308 already (Strasser RS14).
Just, honestly, as a reloader I don´t really care to much about ammo availability, but yeah, bullet options are of course widespread in the 308 as well.

But first of all, does the CTR limit my options?
Because of the magazine, or because of other factors as well?
Which calibers will work in the CTR?

Oh ok. The ctr magazines work fine to me. It only limits your stock/chassis options. You could go with the .375raptor also since you reload and already have .308 brass. It’s a simple conversion and can shoot 270grain bullets out to 200yds no problem.

 

[ejg]

Recon you could go 338 fed, 308, 70-8. At a push even 6.5PRC and load accordingly. I don't think the PRC will give you much more knock down over a 308 loaded say with 178 ELDX up to 200yd. My choice would be the 308 with 9 or 10 twist and experiment with heavier bullets up to 208gr. Chamber cut for these, CTR mag is perfect for that.
edi

 

[UpSideDown]

Barrel / caliber change in a CTR?

Hey guys,
I need your help and knowledge.

I´ve shot out my factory 24" 6.5 Creedmoor barrel, which sits in a KRG Bravo.
Because I´m now into hunting, I want not only to change my barrel but my caliber too.

I want a bit more of a punch and am hunting approx. out to 200yds, not very further really if at all.
As a reloader I thought about the 30-06, because you have a wide range of bullet weights and velocities.
But am thinking the 30-06 won´t fit the magazine?

With the barrel length I´m thinking of 20-22".

Which caliber would be a good choice for such a hunting rig and would fit into the CTR?

Your thoughts and wisdom will be very much appreciated.

The first one was taken with a 7mm PRC out of a Tikka. The second one was taken with a 6.5 Creedmoor out of a Tikka. Both of them with heavy Hornady ELD-M factory loads (180gr and 147gr). Both had zero tracking. I do care about external ballistics because our normal hunting area could give us 1,200yd shots if we could take them, which is why I got the 7PRC to handle ~800-1,000yd shots if the conditions really, really permitted. I’m now looking at downsizing to a 7mm-08. Iif you’re shooting hand grenades (fragmenting tipped match bullets) like the ELD-M or the Sierra Tipped Matchking, you’re going to do well with most reasonable full size calibers in the .473” bolt face your CTR comes with like 6/6.5 Creedmoor, 7mm-07, .260, .308.

My opinion stands on taking two trophy elk in two days.

 

[trob]

Aren’t CTR mags limited to short action calibers?

 

[Jayjay1]

Sorry guys, my fault, I should have said so.

The cartridge must have the footprint of the 308 Win / 6.5 Creedmoor.

The barrel swap over here can only be done by a gunsmith, all-in-all it would make no sense if more costs, like a new bolt etc., would be added to it.
If so, I could buy me a whole new rifle.

The 338Fed and the 375Raptor look very interesting, but I like to have a bit more case space / variety to play with and a little more speed for one or the other "moving" target.

Well, it´ll be 308 or 7mm-08, I guess.
The 7mm-08 seems to let a bit more versatility?

 

[ejg]

MDT have a bottom metal that fits into the CTR footprint and apparently takes medium mags say for 6.5PRC but then you still have the bolt head issue. 284 Win could be an option with the MDT and fit in the 6.5CM bolt. I never managed to find a magazine that would fit into the MDT medium bottom metal. I will search at shot this month.
edi

 

[TheBigCountry]

Well, yes, that´s why I´m having a 308 already (Strasser RS14).
Just, honestly, as a reloader I don´t really care to much about ammo availability, but yeah, bullet options are of course widespread in the 308 as well.

But first of all, does the CTR limit my options?
Because of the magazine, or because of other factors as well?
Which calibers will work in the CTR?

Yes due to bolt stops and magazines

Go and get a 20” 7mm08 barrel in whatever contour tickles your heart and rock on

You’d be amazed at the bang flops the 7-08 is capable of

Thanks us all later

 

[Jayjay1]

Thank you.
I will go the 7mm-08 path.

 

[teddy12b]

So.... I've got some questions and concerns about the finish on my Tikka T3X CTR in 308. Before people get too excited I need to say that I bought this rifle to get used, and shot. I expect it to get scratched up and show signs of wear and I see that as a badge of honor that a gun earns over time. My CTR was bought really for two reasons. 1.) I think it's just a good reason to have a decent 308 laying around ready to go because they're fun at the range, hunting, and take a military caliber. 2.) I like to shoot team matches where one guy has to use a military caliber and when your new guy partner has a 6.5cm, 6mm whatever or some other weird caliber it's nice to have a tried and true 308 that can be pressed into service to be "good enough" to shoot a match with.

Having said that, I recently loaned my rifle out to a buddy who went to Mammoth with his brother in law. His B.I.L. didn't have a rifle and I said borrow my 308. I expected the rifle to come back looking worn and would have been shocked if it hadn't. When I looked the rifle over though, honestly I was shocked at just how much that rifle looks like hell now. To be perfectly clear, I absolutely do not blame my buddy or his B.I.L. about this. I'm actually more shocked at how the finish just seems to have been wiped off like a chemical hit it, or flaked off in other areas etc.

Here's the thing, I honestly don't even really care that it looks nasty right now because ultimately I'll be putting a coat of krylon on it to make it look even worse. My question is if this type of thing is normal for a Tikka T3x CTR, because I'd been thinking of buying another in 6.5cm in the future just to have another spare rifle for hunting/competitions/or whatever.

I'm not sure if this matters or not, but I lent the rifle with both factory stock with tikka mags and KRG Bravo that uses AICS pattern mags thinking they could chose how much weight they wanted to carry. They opted for the KRG Bravo, and whatever corrosion showed up on it literally just wiped off. I've recently purchased a Grayboe to try out and the KRG Bravo will be going to the PX classifieds soon enough.

Is this type of finish wear and tear normal for a Tikka rifle?

 

[Jayjay1]

I have no idea what happened to your rifle, it looks like some acid ran down the system.

No, that´s not normal wear, at all.

 

[carbonbased]

So.... I've got some questions and concerns about the finish on my Tikka T3X CTR in 308. Before people get too excited I need to say that I bought this rifle to get used, and shot. I expect it to get scratched up and show signs of wear and I see that as a badge of honor that a gun earns over time. My CTR was bought really for two reasons. 1.) I think it's just a good reason to have a decent 308 laying around ready to go because they're fun at the range, hunting, and take a military caliber. 2.) I like to shoot team matches where one guy has to use a military caliber and when your new guy partner has a 6.5cm, 6mm whatever or some other weird caliber it's nice to have a tried and true 308 that can be pressed into service to be "good enough" to shoot a match with.

Having said that, I recently loaned my rifle out to a buddy who went to Mammoth with his brother in law. His B.I.L. didn't have a rifle and I said borrow my 308. I expected the rifle to come back looking worn and would have been shocked if it hadn't. When I looked the rifle over though, honestly I was shocked at just how much that rifle looks like hell now. To be perfectly clear, I absolutely do not blame my buddy or his B.I.L. about this. I'm actually more shocked at how the finish just seems to have been wiped off like a chemical hit it, or flaked off in other areas etc.

Here's the thing, I honestly don't even really care that it looks nasty right now because ultimately I'll be putting a coat of krylon on it to make it look even worse. My question is if this type of thing is normal for a Tikka T3x CTR, because I'd been thinking of buying another in 6.5cm in the future just to have another spare rifle for hunting/competitions/or whatever.

I'm not sure if this matters or not, but I lent the rifle with both factory stock with tikka mags and KRG Bravo that uses AICS pattern mags thinking they could chose how much weight they wanted to carry. They opted for the KRG Bravo, and whatever corrosion showed up on it literally just wiped off. I've recently purchased a Grayboe to try out and the KRG Bravo will be going to the PX classifieds soon enough.

Is this type of finish wear and tear normal for a Tikka rifle?

My guess is all that Cerakote destruction occurred during some sort of coked-up ape cleaning-snorting / Asian hooker party.

 

[carbonbased]

So.... I've got some questions and concerns about the finish on my Tikka T3X CTR in 308. Before people get too excited I need to say that I bought this rifle to get used, and shot. I expect it to get scratched up and show signs of wear and I see that as a badge of honor that a gun earns over time. My CTR was bought really for two reasons. 1.) I think it's just a good reason to have a decent 308 laying around ready to go because they're fun at the range, hunting, and take a military caliber. 2.) I like to shoot team matches where one guy has to use a military caliber and when your new guy partner has a 6.5cm, 6mm whatever or some other weird caliber it's nice to have a tried and true 308 that can be pressed into service to be "good enough" to shoot a match with.

Having said that, I recently loaned my rifle out to a buddy who went to Mammoth with his brother in law. His B.I.L. didn't have a rifle and I said borrow my 308. I expected the rifle to come back looking worn and would have been shocked if it hadn't. When I looked the rifle over though, honestly I was shocked at just how much that rifle looks like hell now. To be perfectly clear, I absolutely do not blame my buddy or his B.I.L. about this. I'm actually more shocked at how the finish just seems to have been wiped off like a chemical hit it, or flaked off in other areas etc.

Here's the thing, I honestly don't even really care that it looks nasty right now because ultimately I'll be putting a coat of krylon on it to make it look even worse. My question is if this type of thing is normal for a Tikka T3x CTR, because I'd been thinking of buying another in 6.5cm in the future just to have another spare rifle for hunting/competitions/or whatever.

I'm not sure if this matters or not, but I lent the rifle with both factory stock with tikka mags and KRG Bravo that uses AICS pattern mags thinking they could chose how much weight they wanted to carry. They opted for the KRG Bravo, and whatever corrosion showed up on it literally just wiped off. I've recently purchased a Grayboe to try out and the KRG Bravo will be going to the PX classifieds soon enough.

Is this type of finish wear and tear normal for a Tikka rifle?

Is that rust or the remains of your Cerakote lining the inside of your chassis?

I’d be a little worried about, well, every part on your gun but especially your trigger. Don’t want whatever that crap was flowing down into your trigger mech. I’d disassemble the whole damn thing to clean.

Does it smell like anything? Sulfuric acid? Lol

Do you have a “before” pic? Curious.

Man, scratch that fella off your ok-to-loan-to list. Holy cow.

 

[TheBigCountry]

So.... I've got some questions and concerns about the finish on my Tikka T3X CTR in 308. Before people get too excited I need to say that I bought this rifle to get used, and shot. I expect it to get scratched up and show signs of wear and I see that as a badge of honor that a gun earns over time. My CTR was bought really for two reasons. 1.) I think it's just a good reason to have a decent 308 laying around ready to go because they're fun at the range, hunting, and take a military caliber. 2.) I like to shoot team matches where one guy has to use a military caliber and when your new guy partner has a 6.5cm, 6mm whatever or some other weird caliber it's nice to have a tried and true 308 that can be pressed into service to be "good enough" to shoot a match with.

Having said that, I recently loaned my rifle out to a buddy who went to Mammoth with his brother in law. His B.I.L. didn't have a rifle and I said borrow my 308. I expected the rifle to come back looking worn and would have been shocked if it hadn't. When I looked the rifle over though, honestly I was shocked at just how much that rifle looks like hell now. To be perfectly clear, I absolutely do not blame my buddy or his B.I.L. about this. I'm actually more shocked at how the finish just seems to have been wiped off like a chemical hit it, or flaked off in other areas etc.

Here's the thing, I honestly don't even really care that it looks nasty right now because ultimately I'll be putting a coat of krylon on it to make it look even worse. My question is if this type of thing is normal for a Tikka T3x CTR, because I'd been thinking of buying another in 6.5cm in the future just to have another spare rifle for hunting/competitions/or whatever.

I'm not sure if this matters or not, but I lent the rifle with both factory stock with tikka mags and KRG Bravo that uses AICS pattern mags thinking they could chose how much weight they wanted to carry. They opted for the KRG Bravo, and whatever corrosion showed up on it literally just wiped off. I've recently purchased a Grayboe to try out and the KRG Bravo will be going to the PX classifieds soon enough.

Is this type of finish wear and tear normal for a Tikka rifle?

I hate to say it but someone is phuking with you

Some kind of chemical was thrown on that bad boy to make it do that

 

[carbonbased]

Oh, I know. He used this to clean.

 

[UpSideDown]

Steel Tikka actions have a surface finish, they aren’t nitrided like a lot of nice custom actions are. Yeah the finish is just going to come off if it’s getting thrashed for days in a backpack. Hit that sucker with some scotchbrite and then wipe with alcohol to get the rust off. You can get DIY surface bluing liquid if you want to cover the bare metal up in the area where the action sears into the chassis. It won’t color match what’s on there.

Congratulations on having gun that looks like it’s been used.

 

[carbonbased]

You can get DIY surface bluing liquid

I think this particular action is made of stainless?

 

[viking78]

That rifle has been put in to a rifle bag soaked in wet, and left there for days.
I would tell your friend, to move in to another state.
Typical dick, who borrow stuff, and drive it like it would be stolen, fuck that, it aint mine.
Is that Tikka SS?
Seems to my eye.

 

[Jayjay1]

I absolutely do not blame my buddy or his B.I.L. about this.

Well, I definetely would.

 

[TheBigCountry]

Is that rust or the remains of your Cerakote lining the inside of your chassis?

I’d be a little worried about, well, every part on your gun but especially your trigger. Don’t want whatever that crap was flowing down into your trigger mech. I’d disassemble the whole damn thing to clean.

Does it smell like anything? Sulfuric acid? Lol

Do you have a “before” pic? Curious.

Man, scratch that fella off your ok-to-loan-to list. Holy cow.

Is be asking this “friend” to cover whatever it takes to fix this rifle

 

[UpSideDown]

I think this particular action is made of stainless?

Tikkas either come as bare stainless or as coated carbon steel. The action in question is steel, the action and barrel are not stainless underneath.

 

[carbonbased]

Tikkas either come as bare stainless or as coated carbon steel. The action in question is steel, the action and barrel are not stainless underneath.

According to a few sites:
https://jaoutdoors.com/product/tikka-t3x-super-varmint-s-s/#:~:text=Tikka T3x Super Varmint offers,ready for hunting, are you? (seller of used Tikka parts)

Gun test: Tikka T3X Super Varmint Cerakote

Fieldsports Press Website

rifleshootermagazine.co.uk

This is not absolute proof, of course.

Maybe this rifle in question is indeed carbon steel. But just saying some Cerekoted Tikkas sure seem to be SS.

I have read in a couple places that some SS Tikkas do rust more than other brand’s SS actions. Or perhaps there was a batch of them that did. After all, SS used for guns does does contain carbon and can rust.

It’s dumb that Tikka doesn’t say what it’s made of on their site.

Don’t make me call Tikka lol

Edit: in my above screenshot, I note the pic rail is called “steel”.

 

[teddy12b]

My guess is all that Cerakote destruction occurred during some sort of coked-up ape cleaning-snorting / Asian hooker party.

Not going to lie, it does look like Charlie Sheen and Hunter Biden partied with this rifle.

Any rust on any of the parts really just simply wiped off. I was more concerned with the finish coating over everything else because this rifle will see rain again many more times.

 

[UpSideDown]

According to a few sites:
https://jaoutdoors.com/product/tikka-t3x-super-varmint-s-s/#:~:text=Tikka T3x Super Varmint offers,ready for hunting, are you? (seller of used Tikka parts)

View attachment 8320492

Gun test: Tikka T3X Super Varmint Cerakote

Fieldsports Press Website

rifleshootermagazine.co.uk

This is not absolute proof, of course.

Maybe this rifle in question is indeed carbon steel. But just saying some Cerekoted Tikkas sure seem to be SS.

I have read in a couple places that some SS Tikkas do rust more than other brand’s SS actions. Or perhaps there was a batch of them that did. After all, SS used for guns does does contain carbon and can rust.

It’s dumb that Tikka doesn’t say what it’s made of on their site.

Don’t make me call Tikka lol

The action in question is a CTR, which comes only as bare stainless or treated carbon steel. There are some Tikka actions, like the Super Varmint (stainless) and the Roughtech (either stainless or carbon depending on the model), that come with factory cerakote. The rifle in his picture is just a surface treated carbon steel material like a regular factory Rem 700.

 

[carbonbased]

The action in question is a CTR, which comes only as bare stainless or treated carbon steel. There are some Tikka actions, like the Super Varmint (stainless) and the Roughtech (either stainless or carbon depending on the model), that come with factory cerakote. The rifle in his picture is just a surface treated carbon steel material like a regular factory Rem 700.

Ah, you were referring to just CTRs, eh?

Well, a @carbonbased CTR (har har de har)…now that would rust as shown. I missed the poster’s mention of CTR.

Scratch the acid-cleaning suggestion, then, as no Cerakote was involved. @viking78 ’s suggestion of in a wet bag for days seems on point…although I’ve had rust start on a carbon rifle after a list misting within three hrs stored in a case (I was eating at a restaurant ok! lol).

I sorta hate blued rifles for this reason. They look nice though.

Edit: For all I know the Mammoth was a rain-soaked affair. Two day match, right?

If I had borrowed a rifle, there’s no way in hell I’d return it like that, even if it had unavoidably rusted during the event.

I would’ve at least cleaned it up so there wasn’t rust staining just lying about like some old whore. lol. If the BIL of your buddy didn’t clean it up, then man, your buddy should have.

Did they ring your doorbell, run away, and leave it in a wet paper bag on your doorstep?

 

[Sooter76]

Tikkas either come as bare stainless or as coated carbon steel. The action in question is steel, the action and barrel are not stainless underneath.

My T3x Lite Roughtech is cerakoted…

 

[david walter]

Hornady gun lube does a good job as a surface protectant against rust. Not the case lube, the other stuff.

 

[UpSideDown]

My T3x Lite Roughtech is cerakoted…

I noted in my following post that certain models come cerakoted. Cerkoted models also can be carbon or stainless steel as the base metal, depending on which model, or with the rough techs which generation, you have.

 

[ejg]

Don't all stainless actions have an S stamped in behind recoil lug slot?
edi

 

[aprocast]

The aluminum in the chassis caused a galvanic reaction with the steel, dissimilar metals do that

 

[NewsShooter]

Yes due to bolt stops and magazines

Go and get a 20” 7mm08 barrel in whatever contour tickles your heart and rock on

You’d be amazed at the bang flops the 7-08 is capable of

Thanks us all later

Change the bottom metal and bolt stop and you have a tikka LA.

 

[UpSideDown]

The aluminum in the chassis caused a galvanic reaction with the steel, dissimilar metals do that

That isn't galvanic corrosion, it's straight up rust. Anodized aluminum can't experience galvanic corrosion anyways - it's anodized, the surface is now a different chemical structure. The aluminum is fine. It's a steel action that got soaked and beat up in a backpack.

 

[CaptNemo]

If you have high alkali dust mixed with with moisture, not only will it hold the moisture but it gives the the moisture an electrolyte for dissimilar metals and galvanic corrosion.
Stainless Steel and aluminum don't play well together in sea water DAMHIK.
Austal USA will tell you all about it with the early LCS Vessels. Any damage to the paint coating near the stainless steel wear rings in the water jets became a major issue with corrosion pitting on the aluminum hulls in sea water.
They got a handle on the issue with better coatings, more sacrificial anodes and using a cofferdam and compressed air to keep the water jet intakes dry while the boats were stationary. Yes, I have first hand experience with the LCS, JHSV and EPF Programs.

 

[UpSideDown]

If you have high alkali dust mixed with with moisture, not only will it hold the moisture but it gives the the moisture an electrolyte for dissimilar metals and galvanic corrosion.
Stainless Steel and aluminum don't play well together in sea water DAMHIK.
Austal USA will tell you all about it with the early LCS Vessels. Any damage to the paint coating near the stainless steel wear rings in the water jets became a major issue with corrosion pitting on the aluminum hulls in sea water.
They got a handle on the issue with better coatings, more sacrificial anodes and using a cofferdam and compressed air to keep the water jet intakes dry while the boats were stationary. Yes, I have first hand experience with the LCS, JHSV and EPF Programs.

Dude - it's bare steel that got soaked with water and rusted. IT ISN'T STAINLESS. I don't know how many times I have to repeat that the guy's action is made of a carbon steel, and is not made of stainless. There isn't some hoodoo-voodo magical anodic corrosion that happened in three days. Guys get waaaaay too cognitive about anodic corrosion. There is very little anodic corrosion outside of extended periods in saltwater environments. It's just steel with water trapped in a spot that it can't quickly dry out...

 

[aprocast]

That isn't galvanic corrosion, it's straight up rust. Anodized aluminum can't experience galvanic corrosion anyways - it's anodized, the surface is now a different chemical structure. The aluminum is fine. It's a steel action that got soaked and beat up in a backpack.

You have no idea

 

[Harronek]

6.5x55 -18inch barrel - DPT over barrel suppressor - Hi Tech Carbon Stock .
This is my New Zealand Rifle which stays over there for when I visit .

 

[Flolito]

Tikka T3 CTR in .308
PSE E TAC Stock Milspec
Kahles K624i with Spuhr Mount
Hausken 224 supressor
Atlas Bipod

I plan on changing the Bipod, and the Bolt Handle.

 

[RHINO69]

Anyone with a KRG X-Ray know if it's safe to run a QD sling mount on the MLOK slot of the forend? I'm curious to know if the plastic is okay to support that.

Thanks

 

[Baron85]

I ran one like that on my bravo before switching to the vision forend. Pretty sure they are the same

 

[Pharmseller]

The first one was taken with a 7mm PRC out of a Tikka. The second one was taken with a 6.5 Creedmoor out of a Tikka. Both of them with heavy Hornady ELD-M factory loads (180gr and 147gr). Both had zero tracking. I do care about external ballistics because our normal hunting area could give us 1,200yd shots if we could take them, which is why I got the 7PRC to handle ~800-1,000yd shots if the conditions really, really permitted. I’m now looking at downsizing to a 7mm-08. Iif you’re shooting hand grenades (fragmenting tipped match bullets) like the ELD-M or the Sierra Tipped Matchking, you’re going to do well with most reasonable full size calibers in the .473” bolt face your CTR comes with like 6/6.5 Creedmoor, 7mm-07, .260, .308.

My opinion stands on taking two trophy elk in two days.

7mm-08 for elk?

Inconceivable!

P

 

[bgrav321]

Not to throw shade on your friend, but I was at Mammoth and Friday night until around lunch Saturday it rained. Lots of people weren’t ready. Due to nature of match lots of people and gear exposed to elements for long period of time.

Additionally, I saw a some of surface coating come off my Grayboe stock where it contacted pack buckles/zippers over the 27 miles or so. When you ruck run things move around and jostle a lot.

I dried stuff out throughout rest of match and put everything in front of a fan when I got home.

 

[teddy12b]

Not to throw shade on your friend, but I was at Mammoth and Friday night until around lunch Saturday it rained. Lots of people weren’t ready. Due to nature of match lots of people and gear exposed to elements for long period of time.

Additionally, I saw a some of surface coating come off my Grayboe stock where it contacted pack buckles/zippers over the 27 miles or so. When you ruck run things move around and jostle a lot.

I dried stuff out throughout rest of match and put everything in front of a fan when I got home.

I 100% get it. I've been to Mammoth twice and took a different rifle each time. That's why I was really shocked to see all the finish off the gun as much as it was. The surface rust was to be expected as far as I'm concerned, but where the finish just completely came off was a really new thing to me. From what I heard, the Mammoth this year was a great one to miss as far as the weather goes. I'm looking at doing the 2025 mammoth, and it's very likely this 308 will be going back with me.

 

[trob]

My T3x Lite Roughtech is cerakoted…

Aren’t all the roughtechs carbon steel? The Veil rifles are stainless with cerakote (This was from beretta CS)