Tikka T3 Thread

[david walter]

Yeah, the “suppressors are really quick now!” thing is just for individuals.

Trusts are still taking a while.

 

[bnaples]

Yeah, the “suppressors are really quick now!” thing is just for individuals.

Trusts are still taking a while.

Its all bs....i filed as an individual for all 3 and used the kiosk. Electronic, form 4 for individual, and still waiting. All they will say is "its in process". I'm a 30 year Paramedic....with absolutely nothing on my record. No idea what the problem is because nobody will say anything but "its in process". Finally wrote to my congressman last week to see if they could help.

 

[ejg]

Here's a question for folks who've had background running Tikka T3X family actions, and custom actions. I'm looking for input from guys who've run both, and have thoughts on the trade-offs.

I'm looking to do a new build that will be a LW hunting/field rifle, around 6.5 - 7 lbs before optic. Maybe a Bartlein or Proof CF, MDT HNT26 chassis. Currently I'm all in on Tikka T3X bolt guns. I have production, and customized Tikkas, but Tikka is all I have. Since I'm a LH shooter, Tikka works great and I like the smoothness and reliability of their actions, the bolt throw, etc.

Should I use one of my existing T3X actions for the build? Or is it worth considering a custom action? I've been looking at the Terminus Apollo lite action, which looks interesting, gets good reviews here, and has a 60 degree bolt throw. But not really sure that I need all those deluxe features for this particular LW rifle that won't be used for comps or precision. Now that you can get pre-fit barrels for Tikka (Proof, Preferred, PVA, etc), the selling point of a custom action that you can get prefits and install yourself, is less compelling than it used to be.

We have and have had several rifles built on T3 actions and have helped others in the process ranging from ultra light weight hunting rifles to PRS rigs and even F-Class rifles. None had issues with their Tikka actions. Then again ripping apart a well shooting tikka to get a doner action is hard to do. We come across shot out T3 rifles at a good price every now and then which makes it easy. I have had a few custom actions in the past and couldn't say they always impressed me meaning I wouldn't be sure if there is a noticeable improvement over a Tikka action.
Our latest one is a lightweight hunting rifle with a 24 oz fully adjustable carbon stock and 22" proof prefit in 6.5CM. Overall weight with Atlasworx aics mag system and 3 shot MDT mag is 2.9kg 6.4lb.

edi

 

[LeftyJason]

Krg midas triggers back in stock if you need one.

 

[Waltjaevel]

Tikka and the tripod got some new camo (old and tired paint job on the rifle) so it's easier to just loose it in the forest.

 

[climbing1]

I know you probably haven't this resolve or solved.

In the future I would suggest a ringed nail cross drill thru the crack, side to side, trim the ringed nail short of the stock width and test fit multiple times. Buy a product called double bouble epoxy and a dental flush syringe. Make sure you either have a good bit of surgical tubing or small wood working quick clamps. Flush the crack with 100% alcohol multiple times and try to blow the excess out.

Once you have gotten everything together, you've drill the hole, now test fit it and do a dry run making sure you can close the crack up completely.

Once you are happy with your process and you're certain that you can make this happen. Place your stock outside in the direct sunlight for a hour or more, needs to get hot to the touch, not blister you hot, uncomfortable to hold hot. Now mix up two "kits" of double bouble, pour them into one of the flush syringes, with the stock still in the sun, inject the epoxy into the crack making sure you fill the hole drilled for the ringed nail. A little blue painters tape on either end with the stock laying on its side, fill the drilled hole, paying close attention to the weeping, it will let the bubbles rise to the top and will need to be monitored to keep the drilled hole full of epoxy. Once you have the crack injected and the drilled hole full, clamp or wrap the stock using the surgical tubing pulled extremely tight, now bring the stock into a cool area and the cooling effect will draw the epoxy in deeper.

Double Bubble is some great stuff, you just need to remember that the pot life on double bubble is 6-10 minutes. Clean up can be done with an Xacto with careful motions.

I like this idea and makes sense. Sounds like the same kind of logic as tenons on a glue up.

Fortunately for me (at least so far) my repair hasn’t reopened, post a couple hundred rounds.

Thanks for the input!

 

[climbing1]

Here's a question for folks who've had background running Tikka T3X family actions, and custom actions. I'm looking for input from guys who've run both, and have thoughts on the trade-offs.

I'm looking to do a new build that will be a LW hunting/field rifle, around 6.5 - 7 lbs before optic. Maybe a Bartlein or Proof CF, MDT HNT26 chassis. Currently I'm all in on Tikka T3X bolt guns. I have production, and customized Tikkas, but Tikka is all I have. Since I'm a LH shooter, Tikka works great and I like the smoothness and reliability of their actions, the bolt throw, etc.

Should I use one of my existing T3X actions for the build? Or is it worth considering a custom action? I've been looking at the Terminus Apollo lite action, which looks interesting, gets good reviews here, and has a 60 degree bolt throw. But not really sure that I need all those deluxe features for this particular LW rifle that won't be used for comps or precision. Now that you can get pre-fit barrels for Tikka (Proof, Preferred, PVA, etc), the selling point of a custom action that you can get prefits and install yourself, is less compelling than it used to be.

I say if you run and like T3X (me too) and aren’t building for competition, why get spendy?

 

[Fisher1]

Hello all, I currently love my Tikka T1x .22 ….. but I’m trying to select a T3X in .223 caliber that will qualify for the “Sporter Center Fire” class in the clubs that I shoot at - the maximum muzzle outer diameter of the class is 3/4” ( .750”). Can anyone advise the muzzle diameters of their;
1) T3x Compact JRTXE312C or
2) T3x LITE JRTXE312 ?

Thanks All !

 

[noremorse92]

Current iteration of my T3x build

Specs:

223ai 8 twist 28" Krieger Heavy Varmint by PR Precision w/ Heathen brake

PSE Composites Etac w/aics dbm and Tactical Evo adjustable buttpad

MDT 20 MOA rail bonded to receiver

MDT 30mm Elite rings NXS 5.5-22X50

Shooting the 52 smk. Who needs bc if you launch them at ~3700fps? Shooting at or under half moa for 10rd groups to boot.

@ejg represent great stock

 

[dmentzer]

Hello all, I currently love my Tikka T1x .22 ….. but I’m trying to select a T3X in .223 caliber that will qualify for the “Sporter Center Fire” class in the clubs that I shoot at - the maximum muzzle outer diameter of the class is 3/4” ( .750”). Can anyone advise the muzzle diameters of their;
1) T3x Compact JRTXE312C or
2) T3x LITE JRTXE312 ?

Thanks All !

My T3X Lite measures .630 at the muzzle.

 

[Fisher1]

My T3X Lite measures .630 at the muzzle.

Thanks dmentzer ! Can anyone advise for the T3x Compact JRTXE312C ? Much appreciated !

 

[david walter]

My 20” tikka factory barrel in 243 is 0.648” at the muzzle.

I’m 95% sure they are the same.

 

[ejg]

Current iteration of my T3x build

Specs:

223ai 8 twist 28" Krieger Heavy Varmint by PR Precision w/ Heathen brake

PSE Composites Etac w/aics dbm and Tactical Evo adjustable buttpad

MDT 20 MOA rail bonded to receiver

MDT 30mm Elite rings NXS 5.5-22X50

Shooting the 52 smk. Who needs bc if you launch them at ~3700fps? Shooting at or under half moa for 10rd groups to boot.

@ejg represent great stock

I bet that rifle is fun to shoot. The more you shoot that stock the more hooked you get. I know we designed the E-Tac but even so it puts a smile on my face every time I get behind one. Ever tried 75ELDM's for longer range in her? My T3 and 22-250 loves them.
edi

 

[noremorse92]

I bet that rifle is fun to shoot. The more you shoot that stock the more hooked you get. I know we designed the E-Tac but even so it puts a smile on my face every time I get behind one. Ever tried 75ELDM's for longer range in her? My T3 and 22-250 loves them.
edi

I was worried this barrel wouldn't clear but it does it fine. It's too easy to shoot honestly. It's all I can do to slow down and not rattle through all my ammo. Therefore I load only 40 at a time for each session.

I need to work with the heavies more. The only issue is they are much more expensive compared to the lighter varminting bullets. I only have access to 200yds at my range. I've shot some of the 75eldm but not enough to form a solid conclusion on them. They are a wicked pill and I bet 3200fps is attainable in this rifle with them.

The hand loaded 223ai can get real close to a factory loaded 22 250. With a lot less powder and small primers to boot. Brass is free basically. You also rarely have to trim the cases. Shoots standard 223 accurately as well so fire forming isn't a hassle either. I shot multiple groups under half moa today with this rifle. Smallest so far measured .349 moa for 5 at 200 yds.

 

[Fisher1]

My 20” tikka factory barrel in 243 is 0.648” at the muzzle.

I’m 95% sure they are the same.

Thank You David - much appreciated !

 

[viking78]

View attachment 8447638
@viking78 is my hero. Lol

Nice rig.
Is that Carbonsix barrel?

 

[bnaples]

Nice rig.
Is that Carbonsix barrel?

It's a 20 inch Proof.

 

[Gogga]

Some really nice rifles in this thread. Working on my TAC A1. In think I need a better job, it's amazing how much money this hobby can absorb

 

[david walter]

I passed on a Springfield Waypoint in 6.5 Creed because I didn’t think it could shoot better than the put together from parts T3 I built with a 20” sporter barrel and factory stock.

I’m at 3/4” with Hornady 140 BTHPs without a lot of effort.

I figure I’m $1500 dollars ahead, and didn’t give up much. I have it in a sporter stock with CTR bottom metal, so I didn’t leave any capacity or OAL on the table.

 

[penguinofsleep]

Apologies if this has already been addressed, but search didn't bring it up.

Anyways, currently have a T3 Lite (not T3x in case anything changed) in 308 with the factory plastic single stack "M sized" magazine. As many realize - the magazine forces rounds to be relatively short but after measuring, headspace allows much longer rounds. Initial testing shows "worth it".

So, looking to be able to seat rounds a little further out while still using factory T3L plastic single stack magazines.
1. Can I get the M+ sized magazines (for 6.5CM) and get away with not swapping the bolt stop?
2. If bolt stop needs to be swapped, between the M+ sized vs the L sized magazine, is one going to work significantly better (feeding, reliability, etc.) with a 308 or similarly sized round?
3. Is the flush or extended mag more reliable at this size, if there's a difference at all.

 

[TangoRomeo7688]

Apologies if this has already been addressed, but search didn't bring it up.

Anyways, currently have a T3 Lite (not T3x in case anything changed) in 308 with the factory plastic single stack "M sized" magazine. As many realize - the magazine forces rounds to be relatively short but after measuring, headspace allows much longer rounds. Initial testing shows "worth it".

So, looking to be able to seat rounds a little further out while still using factory T3L plastic single stack magazines.
1. Can I get the M+ sized magazines (for 6.5CM) and get away with not swapping the bolt stop?
2. If bolt stop needs to be swapped, between the M+ sized vs the L sized magazine, is one going to work significantly better (feeding, reliability, etc.) with a 308 or similarly sized round?
3. Is the flush or extended mag more reliable at this size, if there's a difference at all.

Buy an Atlasworx or Mountain Tactical AICS bottom plate and run the AICS metal mags. They Catch Up 74,00mm / 2,91"

Or run the CTR bottom plate. CTR mags also take 74,00mm or 2,91". But the mags are more expensive than the AICS ones.

 

[david walter]

If you do either of those, you’ll also have to swap or modify the bolt stop so the bolt goes back far enough to pick up the longer rounds.

Google it

 

[Eo12]

does anyone have the rusty nuts designs carbonfiber handguard chassis for their tikkas?

 

[Barelstroker]

Here’s some pics of the uncleaned action immediately after barrel removal. I think I had only wiped it out the best I could with a paper towel at this point.

Perhaps this will help the post-mortem.

View attachment 8439533View attachment 8439534View attachment 8439536View attachment 8439535

Looks nasty. I have to say I haven't seen galling as excessively spread along the threads as that example.
There is something you could try though.
Years ago, I worked in a factory where everything was either 304 or 316 SS. Was a real PITA working on anything & everything with a thread. What we worked out was that you can apply too much ant-seize. After speaking to a Stainless Steel guru about the issues we were having with galling threads with anti-seize on them, he told us that there can be too much anti-seize from the perspective of heat retention & pressure, (more heat created). Heat is the main enemy of 316 SS & too much anti-seize creates a situation whereby the heat of friction is retained & in some cases amplified in small surface areas.
What we ended up doing was to heat the male threads, where possible, to 100 to 200 c. Just hot enough to make the anti-seize melt instantaneously & smoke a little on contact. This causes the anti-seize to spread very thinly & evenly over the surface of the threads with no build-up. Just a beautiful even, thin coating. Allow the part to cool completely before assembly.
I won't say this stopped 100% of issues but, our lives became a lot easier & frustration free, for the most part.

 

[DesktopOperator]

I recently received my Tikka T3x Super Varmint. I’m planning to build a 1,000m rifle with a MDT ESS chassi. I bought the lower chassi part and stock, and also a couple of the hand guard .

I tried to remove the picatinny rail from the rifle, since the MDT rail is needed with the full rail hand guard. But it seems impossible the loosen.

I’ve read about rails that need some heat to remove. But I wanted to ask if it’s possible to remove the rail at all on the Super Varmint, since someone said it’s integrated (milled) into/with the received.

But if it’s part of the milled receiver,
It’s seems a bit unnecessary having the screws on the rail…

 

[ruger35]

I recently received my Tikka T3x Super Varmint. I’m planning to build a 1,000m rifle with a MDT ESS chassi. I bought the lower chassi part and stock, and also a couple of the hand guard .

I tried to remove the picatinny rail from the rifle, since the MDT rail is needed with the full rail hand guard. But it seems impossible the loosen.

I’ve read about rails that need some heat to remove. But I wanted to ask if it’s possible to remove the rail at all on the Super Varmint, since someone said it’s integrated (milled) into/with the received.

But if it’s part of the milled receiver,
It’s seems a bit unnecessary having the screws on the rail…

View attachment 8455352

What did you think of the Super Varmint? Think I’m fixing to go that route.

 

[CaptNemo]

Can say this; no stranger will touch the rifle with that dog on guard.

"Can I pet that Dog !?"

 

[carbonbased]

Looks nasty. I have to say I haven't seen galling as excessively spread along the threads as that example.
There is something you could try though.
Years ago, I worked in a factory where everything was either 304 or 316 SS. Was a real PITA working on anything & everything with a thread. What we worked out was that you can apply too much ant-seize. After speaking to a Stainless Steel guru about the issues we were having with galling threads with anti-seize on them, he told us that there can be too much anti-seize from the perspective of heat retention & pressure, (more heat created). Heat is the main enemy of 316 SS & too much anti-seize creates a situation whereby the heat of friction is retained & in some cases amplified in small surface areas.
What we ended up doing was to heat the male threads, where possible, to 100 to 200 c. Just hot enough to make the anti-seize melt instantaneously & smoke a little on contact. This causes the anti-seize to spread very thinly & evenly over the surface of the threads with no build-up. Just a beautiful even, thin coating. Allow the part to cool completely before assembly.
I won't say this stopped 100% of issues but, our lives became a lot easier & frustration free, for the most part.

Interesting! Good tip.

When I grease things, less is more, for sure!

Someone put some sort of grease on those threads. Maybe that added to my probs. After speaking to a gunsmith on SH, he agreed with me that I probably am to blame by clamping the external action wrench on too hard.

Was hoping there were some additional, not-me factors but probably not. Funny thing is, the vids I watched didn’t mention to clamp the wrench snug but not too tight. When trying a new thing, I usually over-prepare!

Learnin’ the hard way…

 

[bnaples]

Finally....2 of my cans have arrived.

 

[Viking_Prs]

Anyone here with an hnt26 folder and 20” barrel who can tell me what the total length of the rifle is with the stock in the folded position is? Norwegian gun law doesn’t allow a bolt action rifle to be any shorter than 84cm and/or have a barrel under 40cm…

 

[YotaEer]

Taking the trusty 6.5 CM CTR out today on some steel. Been using the 140 ELD for years but just grabbed some Berger 144 LRHT to try out.

Been thinking of converting to 25 creed next barrel but probably just going to build another gun on a solus action. This is still my favorite gun

 

[Gogga]

Nice rifle what stock is it?

 

[YotaEer]

Nice rifle what stock is it?

KRG bravo that I painted myself.

Tried everything else but the manners LRH (not available for tikka) and I keep going back to the bravo.

 

[Viking_Prs]

KRG bravo that I painted myself.

Tried everything else but the manners LRH (not available for tikka) and I keep going back to the bravo.

Have you tried the pse etac ultra light? It is supposed to be really nice.

 

[TangoRomeo7688]

I really recommend to have a Look at MDT Field Stock, now regularly on MDT's Website. Also for Tikka T1X

 

[tacoman69]

I really recommend to have a Look at MDT Field Stock, now regularly on MDT's Website. Also for Tikka T1X

the forend is much flimsier than the bravo

 

[TangoRomeo7688]

the forend is much flimsier than the bravo

Well, this might be true. Didn't test the Bravo yet. But it is a lot less flimsier than the Bifrost.

 

[wildturkey2]

308 built by Top Gun Custom Rifles in Spokane


i have a super varmint Tikka 224 & 5.56 caliber wonder if i can get magazines for longer bullets?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[YotaEer]

the forend is much flimsier than the bravo

Yep

Bravo is much stiffer, weighs the same or less, and has a better grip than the field stock IMO

 

[TangoRomeo7688]

That all may be correct, but just fyi here in Germany the Bravo is double the price than the Field Stock. And that makes a big difference when making a decision.

 

[flyboy]

got a 20 MOA NF base for the tikka. Old one came off easy with a slight tightening of the mirage band screw followed by a torch to the top. It lifted off easy. I looked at the old base and new and decided I could poke a couple holes to reuse the recoil lug pins. Just clamped the two together, lined up the screw holes with a tight fitting Allen key and drill bit and popped the other two holes.

It’s sits down on the two pins very nice and snug. Old locktite was removed with a dremel and wire wheel.

 

[ruger35]

Got the 223 Super Varmint in today. Bolt is much smoother than a Weatherby I played with at the lgs the other day. Took the black additional hand guard off, added a Mountain Tactical Arca rail in its place. Topped it with a Tenmile 3-18x44 in some Hawkins rings. Finished it off with the Omega since it’s the smallest footprint can I have.

 

[JerkyFreak]

Got the 223 Super Varmint in today. Bolt is much smoother than a Weatherby I played with at the lgs the other day. Took the black additional hand guard off, added a Mountain Tactical Arca rail in its place. Topped it with a Tenmile 3-18x44 in some Hawkins rings. Finished it off with the Omega since it’s the smallest footprint can I have.View attachment 8461322

Nice!

And who says you need a fancy chassis?

 

[Old Corps 8541]

Krg midas triggers back in stock if you need one.

Lefty, once again a Co. figures it's not worth the investment costs to offer a LH version . And did you catch the note, may only work with our $$$ chassis's ?
I'm getting tired of pussing the the OME trigger with the spring replacement on my TAC 1, come cooler weather I'll probable offer it for sale to my club and start from scratch w/ a LH custom action that takes 700 style triggers.

 

[LeftyJason]

Lefty, once again a Co. figures it's not worth the investment costs to offer a LH version . And did you catch the note, may only work with our $$$ chassis's ?
I'm getting tired of pussing the the OME trigger with the spring replacement on my TAC 1, come cooler weather I'll probable offer it for sale to my club and start from scratch w/ a LH custom action that takes 700 style triggers.

What are you trying to accomplish with changing the trigger? You already have a 2 stage trigger.

Per the other thread that you have posted in and I have linked to you before, per krg you can change the safety lever (that you already have) over to the midas. What more do you want?

You've been into left handed guns. Having anything left handed at all is great. So what if you have to modify it yourself? That's common. Find any chassis that is left handed for a tikka from anybody. They don't really exist.

If you would rather have a single stage I will straight trade you for the one you have.

So what 700 trigger are you going to go with?

Btw modifying a chassis to fit a lefty isn't hard at all.
My Mdt Xrs that I modified to lefty.

Little too thick on the nail polish but it's covered.

Minus the tbac 22td that is normally attached.

 

[davsco]

just got the 7rm barrel off my brand new t3x lite. holy crap are those barrels on TIGHT! kept slipping in the barrel vise with wood inserts so put the barrel in my machine vise. kept slipping even there until i REALLY cranked it down. a couple of raps on the external action wrench with a 5# sledge and it finally loosened. this after soaking in penetrating oil for a month as i was out of town. barrel's totally chewed up but have no use for it so don't care. i have a 22" 6.5prc proof carbon prefit and awaiting pure precision altitude stock. this will be my fourth tikka 'build.'

 

[BobKaare]

View attachment 8461388

For the love of god, please remove that sling stud under the stock.
I won't be able to sleep tonight after noticing that.

 

[LeftyJason]

For the love of god, please remove that sling stud under the stock.
I won't be able to sleep tonight after noticing that.

Will do.

 

[TangoRomeo7688]

For the love of god, please remove that sling stud under the stock.
I won't be able to sleep tonight after noticing that.

Was the first thing I removed on the Field Stock and replaced it by a QD flush cup

 

[jLorenzo]

5 Shot group at 300m

What kind of stock is that?