@CarbonSix is another Tikka pre-fit CF barrel vendor. I have one on a hunting 6.5CM. No complaints whatsoever.
Finally got the Tikka t3x car. Looks really good with a suppressor. Got a couple boxes of 175gr fgmm. Will be doing research on factory match ammo that’s been successful with this particular gun model.
Looking at doing a Tikka 22 Creedmoor. The common conversion route seems to be to rechamber a 22-250 to 22 CM. The options with Tikka are a slow twist in the Super Varmint 1:14 but it’s a heavy barrel or a Superlite with a thin barrel but a 1:8 twist. I like the Super Varmint but not the slow twist. My question is, what if I took a 223 super varmint and rechambered to 22 CM, and swapped out the bolt to a standard bolt face? It’s a 1:8 twist. Would that work? Not asking if it’s economical to do it this way, asking if it will work. Or is a 223 bore too tight for the 22 CM? If doable, then I’ll compare it to doing just an action and a prefit. I have a KRG Bravo and a Timney 2 Stage for a Tikka that keep asking me to build them…
I believe it would actually be cheaper to just put a prefit on it rather than buy a new bolt. Don’t quote me on this but I believe the new bolts are pretty high dollar but have not personally checked. I would talk to a couple smiths familiar with Tikkas and see if you would be able to swap bolts without headspace issues. Im pretty defiance says you can’t do that even with their guaranteed headspace actions.
I understand that, I’m just wondering if it’s possible. My logic would say that if Tikka tolerances are tight enough to be able to offer shouldered prefit barrels and actually hit headspace requirements, that a bolt swap would work. Ultimately I would probably buy an action and rebarrel it, I’m just curious if it would work.
I don’t know the answer and won’t pretend like I do but I would think along the same lines as you. Maybe someone with more experience with the tikka can chime in.
I’m sure there would be a line of people with a standard bolt face that would be willing to trade bolts with you.
Thats what I was thinking, trade bolts and rechamber would probably be the most economical way. I think a Super Varmint in 22 Creedmoor with a 1:8 twist would be awesome. I would probably chop the barrel to 18.5" as well and machine it to accept my Griffin PSR OTB muzzle brake and suppressor. My local smith charges $325 to chamber, not sure what a rechamber would cost, but If I could swap bolts, it could be done for under $500 im sure including the muzzle work.
I see, they do offer an SV in 22-250 1:8. Now finding one. Anyone know of a T3x Super Varmint 22-250 w/ 1:8 twist in stock? Part # is TFTT1352A73C9G0B according to tikka website.
I found a couple just doing a search
Eurooptic would be my first dealer to check
The Super Varmint is a heavy barrel
Searching that part number doesn’t find anything. Plenty of 1:14 models and other cartridges, but I haven’t found any 1:8 22-250 SVs in stock…
FYI USA Tikka part numbers are different than the Tikka’s website for the exact same gun. Don’t ask me why…
All of the Super Varmints EO has:
Tikka T3x Super Varmint Rifles
Tikka T3x Super Varmint Rifles are available at EuroOptic!
All of the 22-250, any model:
View All Tikka T3x Rifles
Tikka T3x Rifles in stock. Tikka T3x Hunter, T3x Lite, T3x CTR, T3x Laminated, T3x Forest, and T3x Varmint. (570) 368-3920
All of the 223, any model:
View All Tikka T3x Rifles
Tikka T3x Rifles in stock. Tikka T3x Hunter, T3x Lite, T3x CTR, T3x Laminated, T3x Forest, and T3x Varmint. (570) 368-3920
The problem is that they don't really import any of the TFTT only part numbers. They only import the JRTX numbers which in those are the 1:14. Is it dumb that they tease us with the possibilities? Yes. Nothing we can really do.
Have a quick question about the stainless vs chromo tikkas for you tikka owners. I keep reading that the stainless models rust pretty quick and because of that a lot of people are thinking that they're just clear cerakoated steel. Is this right? Or are they really stainless. Thanks.
It's literally advertised as stainless on their website. Trading Standards, do you have that where you are?, would be all over it.
There is a big difference between the two. Stainless steel that is needed for firearms is different to say marine stainless even if the numbers are close 416 vs 316. Someone will come along and explain why.
The 416 is slightly magnetic, 316 is almost not magnetic if I remember right. I have the feeling that stainless rifles which are oiled for a while will gradually become more corrosion resistant. Maybe the chrome bits need a layer of protective corrosion or so. I have seen a few customer stainless rifles that are badly rusted, mine have no corrosion although we just about only shoot in wet conditions.
edi
416 Stainless used in receivers and barrels is not not moderately corrosion resistant. Either paint it or cerakote or keep it cleaned and lightly oiled. Nitrided carbon steel is far more corrosion resistant.
Boeshield T9
Works on bicycle chains and motorcycle chains and on guns to lube and to fight rust. Easy to apply and doesn’t gunk up the surface after you let it dry.
Hornady also makes a spray on “gun lube,” that works pretty well.
NOT the case lube. Case lube doesn't work well for this application, and is unfortunately in a very similar can.
Works on bicycle chains and motorcycle chains and on guns to lube and to fight rust. Easy to apply and doesn’t gunk up the surface after you let it dry.
Hornady also makes a spray on “gun lube,” that works pretty well.
NOT the case lube. Case lube doesn't work well for this application, and is unfortunately in a very similar can.
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Good stuff here. Overall, I actually have quite a good understanding of ferrous and non ferrous metallurgy. Its a hobby of mine, and i did well on it in college as well. I do know that really tough stainless can get slightly corroded with the right conditions, but ill take that over carbon steel any day. I was just here trying to verify those internet rumors were false lol.
The last rumor was that since the stainless models were cerakoted they were bead blasted beforehand and were therefore not as smooth. Is that true?
The last rumor was that since the stainless models were cerakoted they were bead blasted beforehand and were therefore not as smooth. Is that true?
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My stainless is actually stainless. But, not as smooth a finish as the blued guns. More of a fine matte.
I’d actually take nitrided alloy steel over stainless. I manufacture equipment used in a steel mill that is subjected to the most corrosive environment possible and the nitrided 4140 stuff holds up the best, zero rust. We use a gas nitride process. Check out Advanced Heat Treat, the UltraOx process, it’s cool stuff.
Just thought I’d post up a pic of my “ Mutton dressed up as Lamb “ Tikka 6x45
Old T3 action , Super Varmint Stock ,IBI barrel , Waters magazine so I can load long , VX6 Scope , Alloy bottom metal .
I’m loving the 6x45 ( 6mm223 ) should have got one years ago .
Old T3 action , Super Varmint Stock ,IBI barrel , Waters magazine so I can load long , VX6 Scope , Alloy bottom metal .
I’m loving the 6x45 ( 6mm223 ) should have got one years ago .
What bullets are you shooting?Just thought I’d post up a pic of my “ Mutton dressed up as Lamb “ Tikka 6x45
Old T3 action , Super Varmint Stock ,IBI barrel , Waters magazine so I can load long , VX6 Scope , Alloy bottom metal .
I’m loving the 6x45 ( 6mm223 ) should have got one years ago .
That rifle is soo hot I cant get over it.Just thought I’d post up a pic of my “ Mutton dressed up as Lamb “ Tikka 6x45
Old T3 action , Super Varmint Stock ,IBI barrel , Waters magazine so I can load long , VX6 Scope , Alloy bottom metal .
I’m loving the 6x45 ( 6mm223 ) should have got one years ago .
I hear that. Polished and nitrided carbon steel is no joke. Out of the 16 or so BCG's I have for AR's, and I have them all, my polished and nitrided (bootleg) carrier is by far and away the toughest and slickest I have. They may have been wednesday carriers when it came to the polishing dept. I dont know, but they're no joke. True, my mystic coatings carrier is like actual glass, but that's a coating, that can eventually wear or flake off. Nitrided high carbon steel is just soo tough that it puts my mind as ease.
So I'm guessing the carbon steel Tikkas arent nitrided/qpq'ed/ferriticnitrocarburized then?
Per the description they are blued steel, so that’s all the more protection you get, which isn’t much. I don’t know if any models are nitrided, I am curious though if anyone knows what models if any are nitrided from the factory. I did see that J&A outdoors sells a stripped tikka T3x receiver that is nitrided, not sure if it’s factory or done after the fact, but you could buy that, and a CTR DLC bolt, and be good to go, or send a regular bolt body to a heat treater and have it nitrided. I’m tempted to try this myself, we always have stuff going to nitride for work so I could toss a bolt body in with a load and see what happens. A nitrided bolt and receiver would be perfect in my mind. Anyone know what material the T3x bolt body is made of? The heat treater asks so they can get the gas mixture correct. They nitrocarburize the steel, it brings 4140 close to 60 Rc on its surface, and they add in a beautiful black oxide to the mixture (which is a coating) on top. In my experience it adds only around 0.0005” or less, they claim it doesn’t but it does. It can be done without black oxide as well, and just looks like normal steel, but same properties, corrosion resistance, hardness, etc…
Anyone have an extra bolt body they would send me to have nitrided? I can’t be sure it won’t ruin the bolt body, but if it works it would be a free nitrided bolt body. The place we use has a minimum charge which works out to about 200lbs so not worth it to send in its own, but with other parts, it’s worth it. We toss things in there we want nitrided all the time. I may grab a bolt and try it, and let y’all know if it works.
We build hydraulic cylinders, and we have gone to nitriding entire cylinders to prevent corrosion. The type of cylinder pictured, without nitride, after a year in service, looks like it’s been at the bottom of the ocean since the titanic sank. With nitride, they look brand new, no rust, just look like they have some dust on them. Like a dusty version of the brand new one shown.
Sierra 85gr hpbt at 2865 fps
H4895 / Starline Brass / CCI 450 Primers - 22 inch barrel .
It’s the most accurate Rifle in my Gun Safe .
I call it “ Sixy Beast “ and I can’t explain why a “ Parts Bin “ type Rifle just works and looks so good to my eye , but it just does.
That’s sweet. I built a 25-45 sharps on a gas platform. It sure is a fun little gun to shoot.
Is the bolt lift and stuff still smooth though? Have you ever compared it to a blued steel?
Not sure if you guys remember this from last year, but I got about 400 rounds out of the original repair but it just opened back up. I suppose it's just way too much repetitive psi right behind the action. After the first 50 or so last year, I kind of thought it might hold up, considering the beating the stock would take in this specific area. It'd either be fixed or open back up right away.
Just for fun, final attempt– Drilled out a couple of mortises perpendicular to the crack. I was going to peg them with solid material, but decided to use multiple pegs, in this case, toothpicks lol, so I can impregnate the "tenons" with resin. If this doesn't fix it nothing will. I'll send another update once it's finished.
I have used that crazy looking method a few times …. still together…..
There’s actually some prepreg under this UPR stock.
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My daughter shooting with a "moose rifle"
The smile on her face after the first shot says it all. I would be surprised if she doesn't claim the rifle as hers now.
Welp, here's the final. If she cracks again, it's going into the trash. I went ahead and formed up a fat palm swell and thumb shelf like my Manners. Super comfy. I used Marine-Tex due to high psi, can build it up thick, easy to sand and bonds well to fiberglass. I didn't bother filling in the air bubbles after it cured. Sorry, forgot to get a shot of just the Marine-Tex from rough to sanded before painting.
I repainted it a few days ago and put about 40 through it today and seemed fine. Time will tell, of course.
Before (tape on left side to keep resin from leaking out for tenons):
After:
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I just got out this weekend and shot my dad's old tikka t3x tac a1 again, he bought this rifle a month after they started shipping, very likely first run. it's been rebarreled several times, probably 6-10k rounds on the action.
we did nothing to it other than use it rigorously and try to maintain it a little as we went along.
it's never malfunctioned, trigger is decent enough for competing if you can get used to a 2 stage.
bolt lift is light and smooth as butter, they definitely designed a decent action.
I reckon she's only got another 40k rounds left on her before she gives it up so we'll try to enjoy her until then.
good value. not a huge fan of the weight/balance but great learner rifle.
we did nothing to it other than use it rigorously and try to maintain it a little as we went along.
it's never malfunctioned, trigger is decent enough for competing if you can get used to a 2 stage.
bolt lift is light and smooth as butter, they definitely designed a decent action.
I reckon she's only got another 40k rounds left on her before she gives it up so we'll try to enjoy her until then.
good value. not a huge fan of the weight/balance but great learner rifle.
So does anyone have a definitive magazine internal dimensions list by chance? I'm trying to see which magazine would come closest to 3.036", if there even is one. If not, are there aftermarket 'spines' if you will that adjust the internal lengths?
The longest known Short Action Magazine to me is the MDT AICS metal magazine without binder plate. It takes up to 74,55mm / 2.935"
The CTR and the MDT AICS ! Without ! Binder Plate are nearly the same inner length. Thats the reason I bought them and not the ones with Binder Plate. They are quite a bit shorter.
MDT Product quote:
"... Without a binder plate you get a longer COL (2.960" vs 2.870"), but they may require modification to the feed ramp of the receiver. Check if your action would be able to feed 2.960" long cartridges, or have it modified if you want to use magazines without binder plates...."
MDT Product quote:
"... Without a binder plate you get a longer COL (2.960" vs 2.870"), but they may require modification to the feed ramp of the receiver. Check if your action would be able to feed 2.960" long cartridges, or have it modified if you want to use magazines without binder plates...."
Forgive me for my ignorance but I have a T3X 6.5 PRC. I would like to put a different caliber barrel on it. I am not really sure how the action lengths, bolt heads, etc work on the tikkas. What range of calibers can I change to with nothing other than a barrel swap?
All tikkas are the same length at medium/long as in you can run some long actions as long as they're not loaded too long.
Anything that shares a .532 bolt face. Bolt stop might need changed for the longer ones or you can file it. There are some variations on these bolt stops but gets the point across.
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