Tikka T3 Thread

^^Sweet set up. Anyone have any leads on a 24" CTR in 6.5? I sold my new 20" to get the 24, and of course the place I was going to buy from sold out before I sold mine. TSS Warehouse was the best price I found . I think it was $887 for blued, $976 for Stainless. Anybody seen any in stock in that price range? Thanks
 
​​​​​​​This is one of my beauties, Tikka T3 X on McMillan A5-3 with a PVA prefit nut barrel 6.5 CM 24", Mad Scientist muzzle brake, EGW 20 MOA and a Vortex Razor AMG.

Sweet set up you have there! One of these days I'll get around to throwing on one of the Hardy CF prefit barrels on mine.



​​​​​​​

 

Thanks. I thought about Hardy's prefit too, I like a lot the carbon fiber idea but the PVA barrel has a nut and having Josh as a gunsmith is a plus so I went this way.
 
Nothing wrong with that at all sir. I'll definitely be interested to see how she shoots for you. Also curious how well the mad scientist brake helps with staying on target from shot to shot...? Anyways, she is a beauty! Happy shooting bud!
 
Nothing wrong with that at all sir. I'll definitely be interested to see how she shoots for you. Also curious how well the mad scientist brake helps with staying on target from shot to shot...? Anyways, she is a beauty! Happy shooting bud!

Thanks again. Tomorrow I'll go to shoot her thru 500 yards. I will let you know for sure.
 
^^Sweet set up. Anyone have any leads on a 24" CTR in 6.5? I sold my new 20" to get the 24, and of course the place I was going to buy from sold out before I sold mine. TSS Warehouse was the best price I found . I think it was $887 for blued, $976 for Stainless. Anybody seen any in stock in that price range? Thanks

That is a very good price, especially since TSS has free shipping.
 
Just went through a whirlwind of Tikka buying.

Ordered a T3 Hunter in .260 a month ago, got it and put a Leupold VX-3i on it. Then I had the urge to play sniper and sold the hunter without shooting it and ordered a T3 CTR .260 in Stainless. Now going through the whole scope process again but it's worth it!!!
 
^^Sweet set up. Anyone have any leads on a 24" CTR in 6.5? I sold my new 20" to get the 24, and of course the place I was going to buy from sold out before I sold mine. TSS Warehouse was the best price I found . I think it was $887 for blued, $976 for Stainless. Anybody seen any in stock in that price range? Thanks

Looks like Europtic has them in Stock for a little more than TSS
 
For those of you that have had your barreled action cerakoted, did it mess with the smoothness of the action? Thinking of getting mine done to match the stock when it comes in, but don't want to mess up a good thing as far as the action is concerned

Just got my .308 CTR back from being Cerakoted. The action and bolt were coated with flat coyote brown and there is a difference in how smooth the action is, but with some grease applied to the bolt raceways it is still much smoother than my Savage. If you want the smoothest action possible I would say you're best not to coat, or at least not with a flat finish. I would imagine that the quality of the work done can vary widely as well...
 
Last edited:
Yeah, in retrospect I should have done a bit more homework before I went ahead and did that. In future I would probably go with stainless everything.
 
My daughters t3 lite in 243. I cut the stock down 1", painted it green, replaced the shroud and handle. Vx2 2-7 in talleys on top.
 

Attachments

  • ImageUploadedByTapatalk1487461527.0079.jpg
    ImageUploadedByTapatalk1487461527.0079.jpg
    116.7 KB · Views: 448
  • Like
Reactions: savagesavy
Painted my CTR stock. Now if I could just find a way to post photos that crap thumbnails...

Nice paint job, is that a MK4 M3? Looks good on there. For pics upload to photobucket, once its in your library click on the image, there are four options on the right "share this photo" select the one in "img" it will automatically copy it, then paste it into your snipers hide post. Just make sure to make your other photos private on photobucket unless you want the world to see them.
 
Last edited:
Nice paint job, is that a MK4 M3? Looks good on there. For pics upload to photobucket, once its in your library click on the image, there are four options on the right "share this photo" select the one in "img" it will automatically copy it, then paste it into your snipers hide post. Just make sure to make your other photos private on photobucket unless you want the world to see them.

It is a MK4 M3. I had this scope laying in my safe. For a nice light 308 I think it fills the roll nicely. This rifle will be my long range starter rifle/hunting rifle so I'm not sure I need more glass.
 
Nice rifle. What bottom metal are you running? I'm wanting to build something similar in a 280 Ackley but finding options are limited forAICS mags.


Yeah, your only option really for long action T3 bottom metal is CDI, that's what I'm running. I like it good enough, no complaints. Long action AI mags I'm running a 5rd Accurate 3006 mag and 2 heavily modified AI long action mags. 3006 Accurate mags have a built in stop at the front and work great for keeping bullet noses from catching under the feed ramp, but they only come in 5rd capability. I modified my two 10rd AI mags with a spacer in the front to do the same thing. I can post pics if anyone is interested in this. It limits the mag length to fit the opening in the bottom of a Tikka action, which is shorter than the AI mag system.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Heevo
^^Sweet set up. Anyone have any leads on a 24" CTR in 6.5? I sold my new 20" to get the 24, and of course the place I was going to buy from sold out before I sold mine. TSS Warehouse was the best price I found . I think it was $887 for blued, $976 for Stainless. Anybody seen any in stock in that price range? Thanks

wikiarms shows grabagun.com has them for $904 plus $8 for shipping.
 
Im not allowed to post in the marketplace yet, but I have a brand new T3X CTR stock, bottom metal, and magazine if anyone is interested please PM me. Removed within an hour of getting home with the rifle.
 
IMG_0913_zpsqvm6hoqm.jpg





It has been asked before about modifying the hollow style bolt stop to make long action. Today I had a short action stop in front of me and needed a long action. I stopped by Brownells on thore way home and they was out of stock. So I threw mine in the mill and machined it back to the next section. You can kind of see in the first pic where it was. Pretty easy job took less then a minute to Machine and file the edges. It works great and just as strong as a original stop.
 
Last edited:
Yeah, your only option really for long action T3 bottom metal is CDI, that's what I'm running. I like it good enough, no complaints. Long action AI mags I'm running a 5rd Accurate 3006 mag and 2 heavily modified AI long action mags. 3006 Accurate mags have a built in stop at the front and work great for keeping bullet noses from catching under the feed ramp, but they only come in 5rd capability. I modified my two 10rd AI mags with a spacer in the front to do the same thing. I can post pics if anyone is interested in this. It limits the mag length to fit the opening in the bottom of a Tikka action, which is shorter than the AI mag system.

Thanks for the info!
 
I just removed the top rail on my T3X CTR. The screws were seriously loctited in. I would strongly recommend
a lot of heat before you attempt it. If you try without and they are glued they will strip...
 
^^^^ Is that a drop in Manners T4A with the factory bottom metal? I have one in midnight camo on order. How's it shoot? Looks great

Yes it is a Manners T4A drop in with the factory bottom metal it is a 6.5CM and it consistently shoots 1/2-3/4 MOA with Prime 130 OTM or Hornady 140 ELD match it has become my favorite rifle. In fact it shoots so well that I went and bought another one in 308, but I will probably keep it in the factory stock for awhile. It does have the 20" barrel, but I wish I had the 24" barrels that they now come with.
 
Last edited:
I got my blued rails and screws off with little trouble. Only a little heat to get the small pins out.

The new base seems to fit tight and not need beding, but the manual says to glue base if removed. Are any of you doing this? If so what are you using for glue?
 
I got my blued rails and screws off with little trouble. Only a little heat to get the small pins out.

The new base seems to fit tight and not need beding, but the manual says to glue base if removed. Are any of you doing this? If so what are you using for glue?

Did you get the rail from Tikka Performance? I don't think they use any glue in their installation video.
 
I got my blued rails and screws off with little trouble. Only a little heat to get the small pins out.

The new base seems to fit tight and not need beding, but the manual says to glue base if removed. Are any of you doing this? If so what are you using for glue?

Just curious why did you change from the factory picatinny base in the first place was there something wrong with it?