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Let's see your 223 tikka rifles. I'm just starting to build a 223 trainer to mimic my match rifle and thought it would be cool to see what everyone else has done with theirs. Will post pics of what I got once I get manners in. Going to build it off of a varmint with a 1:8 twist. Mountain Tactical bottom metal and scope base, yodave trigger spring, anarchy outdoors handle and glades armory rounded knob till I can place another order through sterk. It's been a while since I've had a 223 bolt gun so it's going to be a fun little project. Probably run the Nosler RDF or Sierra Tipped Match kings.
Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
Just added the first Tikka to the group. T3x Varmint in .223. Optic is the Gen 1 Vortex PST MOA/SFP 6-24x50 on Vortex Precision low rings. Added the Lone Star throw lever, Defender caps and a Vortex level. I had a Night Force 0 moa rail on it in these pics but have since changed that to a 20 moa rail. Changed the bolt handle to the Mountain Tactical stainless handle and knurled knob. Also installed the Bob Sled single feed ramp in the mag along with hardened action screws also from Mountain Tactical. Disassembled everything and coated the stock in my usual House of Kolor Passion Purple with Cerakote MC-161 matte clear. Added a Magpul 3 slot pic rail to mount the Atlas BT-10LW17 bipod.
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After shooting it a bit I could never get a good cheek weld so I modded a Wiebad cheek pad made for the Ruger RPR by adding a leather spacer to the bottom and Velcroing it to the cheek rest.
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Also added a 1 lb. block of Duct Seal to the butt stock after removing the factory foam. Really balanced out the rifle nicely. It was quite muzzle heavy before.
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I'll be sending the bolt out for Micro Slick and fluting after range day on Saturday. Considering trying the Body's At One stock as well. A work in progress....
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After shooting it a bit I could never get a good cheek weld so I modded a Wiebad cheek pad made for the Ruger RPR by adding a leather spacer to the bottom and Velcroing it to the cheek rest.
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Also added a 1 lb. block of Duct Seal to the butt stock after removing the factory foam. Really balanced out the rifle nicely. It was quite muzzle heavy before.
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I'll be sending the bolt out for Micro Slick and fluting after range day on Saturday. Considering trying the Body's At One stock as well. A work in progress....
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Responded to PM. I am pretty much out of Shrouds, but still have Black Swept Ball Handles available.
I am contemplating getting a T3X in .223, and making sure I know exactly what I would need for it. I have an IOR 2.5-10x42 with Ken Farrel rings that I had on my Savage 10FP. In order to use that on a T3X, is it better to get a rail or use mounts?
2017-10-13_08-58-04 by Jake Freese, on FlickrThe stock is here, hopefully ill get some time to work on it this weekend.
Just got my Strek bolt handle in today! It's sweet!
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
Just got my Strek bolt handle in today! It's sweet!
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
looks great!
HoustonB77 that looks awesome! Glad it got there safely - hope you enjoy using the handle.
blbennett1288 The pic should have been from the Bolt handle side! haha. Looks great though, those Chassis are impressive.
blbennett1288 The pic should have been from the Bolt handle side! haha. Looks great though, those Chassis are impressive.
Got a little bored so I painted my 6.5 CTR.
You use a sponge to get that pattern?
Yes. I ordered these. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0039VC988/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Also did my Superlite. It is super easy.
I just picked my my first centerfire bolt rifle. T3X CTR in 6.5CM 24". I have a Nightforce 20 MOA scope base and Seekins scope rings on the way. I also installed the Yo Dave trigger spring which made a significant difference in the trigger pull. Thinking I may go with the Athlon Ares 4.5-27 scope.
Anyway, I have enjoyed reading through the thread and seeing all of your rifles. Thanks to all of you for sharing your pics and knowledge.
Anyway, I have enjoyed reading through the thread and seeing all of your rifles. Thanks to all of you for sharing your pics and knowledge.
In case anyone has he same question in the future, I contacted Mountain Tactical as well, and their recommendation was:
"I would definitely use a rail. The rail offers strength, repeat-ability, and multiple mounting positions."
Haha its also in their best interest to sell you a rail. The dovetail mount offers strength (direct to action mounting), and multiple mounting positions. Spuhr is a great believer in direct to action mount which is why he offers pic rail or dovetail mounts. Tikka has thre recoil pin hole also for mounts that can make use of the extra strength.
In saying all that, I use picatinny rails to get the height and MOA I need, also means I can swap rings/scopes across other pic rail rifles.
In saying all that, I use picatinny rails to get the height and MOA I need, also means I can swap rings/scopes across other pic rail rifles.
Very quick but very specific question:
I have a Tikka CTR (24" 6.5 Creedmoor). I'm ordering a Vortex PST FFP GEN 2 in 5-25. Vortex recommends 0.97" height on their precision matched scope rings. I plan on dropping the Tikka CTR in a Masterpiece Arms BA Lite chassis.
Question: Will 0.97" still work with the new chassis? If anyone already owns this setup, please chime in!
I have a Tikka CTR (24" 6.5 Creedmoor). I'm ordering a Vortex PST FFP GEN 2 in 5-25. Vortex recommends 0.97" height on their precision matched scope rings. I plan on dropping the Tikka CTR in a Masterpiece Arms BA Lite chassis.
Question: Will 0.97" still work with the new chassis? If anyone already owns this setup, please chime in!
Need help I have a tikka ctr t3x with a sig tango 4 with sig high rings have it zeroed at a hundred yards and do not have very vertical elevation on the turret left tell it is maxed out a little less than half a turn is this the normal for this gun and how do I fix it so I can have more adjustment if anyone could help I would really appreciate it
The 3.500 allowed by our design is achieved by shifting the mag well back towards the trigger housing and requires no modification of your magazine or action. With modifying the magazine by bending up the front tabs that hold the follower and/or bending the magazines feed lips to cause a nose up orientation of the bullet it is possible to get quite a bit more than 3.500
I have a 56mm object and used seekins low (0.92”) with a 20moa base and it has plenty clearance.
Hey guys, I'm contemplating a Tikka build. I've built on one before a while ago, but didn't shoot it much before selling it to a friend (I kinda regret selling it now...)
I just had some questions maybe you guys could help me with.
Firstly, I heard rumors about the factory black (blued) Tikkas rusting. Is this at all a problem? Should it sway me into getting a S/S version rather than a black one? I'm mostly interested in the CTRs. Idk if the CTRs and the Lites have a different black coating.
Also, can I depend on a factory CTR Tikka to be accurate out of the box? If I go this route, I will NOT have the funds to get a custom barrel hooked up.
And lastly, just out of curiosity, anyone ever DLC a Tikka action? I know they are pretty smooth out of the box, but I wonder if a DLC will make it even glassier lol. More of an entertaining thought rather than a serious consideration. But hey, who knows. I am also curious because one of the CTRs I played with had the black phosphated bolt, and it wasn't as smooth as the S/S bolts. Perhaps this gets fixed up after some clp/cycling?
I just had some questions maybe you guys could help me with.
Firstly, I heard rumors about the factory black (blued) Tikkas rusting. Is this at all a problem? Should it sway me into getting a S/S version rather than a black one? I'm mostly interested in the CTRs. Idk if the CTRs and the Lites have a different black coating.
Also, can I depend on a factory CTR Tikka to be accurate out of the box? If I go this route, I will NOT have the funds to get a custom barrel hooked up.
And lastly, just out of curiosity, anyone ever DLC a Tikka action? I know they are pretty smooth out of the box, but I wonder if a DLC will make it even glassier lol. More of an entertaining thought rather than a serious consideration. But hey, who knows. I am also curious because one of the CTRs I played with had the black phosphated bolt, and it wasn't as smooth as the S/S bolts. Perhaps this gets fixed up after some clp/cycling?
I havnt had any issues with the SS rusting, I can’t speak for the blued option.
Sub MOA guaranteed and most shoot better.
I have a SS CTR and there is a black coating on my bolt and it is plenty smooth. I imagine if the coating was not there it would not be as smooth. You can actually see the areas it is starting to come off after the first 1000 rounds.
I have 4 Tikkas, two SS and two blued, never seen rust on them (in the nasty weather of Florida) All 4 are sub 1/2 MOA capable, al their actions are super smooth, the CTR has the bolt coated with Teflon which makes them smother. IMHO they doesn't need to be coated at all.
My tikka project has been shooting quite well, last time I was out it went 3/3 on shotgun shells at 100 and 2/3 at 200. Very happy with the accuracy from a factory barrel.
Just getting into the long range game and finished setting up the Tikka TAC A1 in 6.5CM with Burris XTRII 4-20x50 SCR MIL, Burris XTR Signature Rings, Burris Bubble Level, Atlas PSR Bipod with Hawk Hill feet, and Mountain Tactical Bolt Handle. Next step is to get it out to the range to see how it groups.
Here is mine. CTR 6.5 CM 20 inch, Steiner T5xi 3-15, ARC Rings, Manners T7 and CDI Bottom Metal. Larue Suppressor. Something different and simple setup. Just what I wanted.
My CTR 260 was 1/2 MOA with the factory 20" barrel. It has a 23.5" 6.5 Creed Bartlein on it now. Never had any problem with rust and the action is very smooth. I do believe the bolt is teflon coated on the CTRs. I have a 20" 6.5 Creed factory new take of barrel to use, but I haven't shot it yet.
I've owned 2 blued Tikkas and my friend has another; since I'm in Colorado (low humidity) take this for whatever it's worth but I have not seen any rust on the 3 of our rifles. Some people MIGHT think they saw rust if they ever saw thread locker in the barrel threads but you usually don't see that.
Yes, a factory CTR will be quite accurate. Sub-MOA on my 10-shot groups. You can do a prefit barrel with a nut (like a savage) for <$500 from SolidAccuracy (Criterion) or Patriot Valley Arms; you don't need a gunsmith to do it. That's nice for when you shoot out your barrel.
What do you mean by "Tikka build"...? Just swapping stocks/triggers/etc.?
I would not do a PVD/DLC treatment until you know for damn sure what temperature their exact process is going to reach when doing it; some of them get pretty hot and may affect the heat treat of the steel for your action/bolt/barrel.
