Yep, I've used EGW on a couple of Remington actions and it hangs over the barrel. That's the main reason I asked. Wasn't sure if some of the others would stop right at the face of the action. The Mountain Tactical website cautions that their Performance rail will work but only if you modify the rifle. That concerned me more than a little. I'll consider modifying the rail but not the rifle itself.
-
Having trouble using the site?
Contact support
The Murphy Precision base I referenced a couple of posts above stops at the front of the receiver, perfect fit for the Tikka action. You used to be able to see one of mine on about page 12 of this thread before Photobucket decided to charge for the privilege.
I just got a Spuhr 3701 with Vortex AMG, so far I liked it a lot. I’ll shoot it Wednesday and report back.
Two adapters makes that bipod sit real high. Plus the added weight. Hopefully one adapter comes out to be dual purspose soon enough
Tikka T3 build we just wrapped up.
New barrel, some fluting, and C/K to finish.
Stock is a Manners T4A blank. We did some surgery and tang work to build it up for the action. Then surface machined the inlet and fitted all the additional hardware. 1:1 right off the machine.
Finally, some paint work using our DMP pattern in 2 color. I designed this pattern almost 7 years ago and we make all the stencils in house. Actual applied coating, not film dipped.
Nice little rig for killing critters.
New barrel, some fluting, and C/K to finish.
Stock is a Manners T4A blank. We did some surgery and tang work to build it up for the action. Then surface machined the inlet and fitted all the additional hardware. 1:1 right off the machine.
Finally, some paint work using our DMP pattern in 2 color. I designed this pattern almost 7 years ago and we make all the stencils in house. Actual applied coating, not film dipped.
Nice little rig for killing critters.
Attachments
I have my first Super Varmint in .223
Jeeeeeeeeeeeezus thats one heavy barrel... be really nice if there was a fluted option too.
Jeeeeeeeeeeeezus thats one heavy barrel... be really nice if there was a fluted option too.
Nice rig!! I do have to ask though, what made you go with the T3X bottom metal inlet and not the CDI or CTR copies?
Tikka magazines run really well. In this instance the owner specified sticking with the OEM floormetal.
@LongRifles Inc. nice build, saw some on facebook with the stock tang work.
Was there much bolt work to it too? fluting/handle?
Was there much bolt work to it too? fluting/handle?
Looking at KRGs Facebook this morning they mentioned in one of the comments they are working on a revised cheekpiece to address the Tikka cocking indicator issue that should be out mid 2018
nice, you also cant remove the bolt with the cheek piece all the way down so i cant wait for that!
I am not sure that will change; I forgot where it was but when I was researching which chassis I wanted to buy I saw a video where they recommended slipping O-rings over the tubes that hold the cheekpiece up to set its height, and then removing the cheekpiece entirely when you want to remove your bolt.
Again I can't say for sure as I won't be home for several more weeks to assemble the chassis to my rifle and new scope, so IDK where exactly I will have the cheekpiece adjusted to. I will post pics when I get it set up though. Good news is that the scope and rings arrived at my house from Vortex yesterday, and the chassis should come in today.
If they just shorten the cheekpiece then that could solve both issues but IDK what that will do to the ergonomics
yea i space it out with plastic sleeves, way to many o-rings to get the height!
Also, I wonder if the adjustable cheekpiece mount and overmolded cheekpiece fit the Bravo. The product page says W-3 and X-ray, but the actual instructions say all chassis except Habu. If the adjustable cheekpiece mount fits then the overmolded cheekpiece will and it looks quite a bit shorter. It wouldn't have the same aesthetic appeal as the stock Bravo cheekpiece but form is the most beautiful function
in the Bravo page, massoud says the post spacing is the same so i could technically fir, but i dont know how that would look, made if you could some how keep the original in place, and mount the overmolded one through and on-top of it.
KRG has indicated that the overloaded cheek piece will work on the Bravo. The nice thing about it is it would offer more adjustment (Fore and Aft).
Yeah and its shorter so it should solve the bolt throw issues. Curious how it'd look though
My Tikka XRay came with an O ring on each riser stem that are tight. Slowly pushed the riser down to desired height, set the knob, and the O rings hug the stems right against the stock. Bolt removal takes about 3 seconds, pull off the riser, and out with the bolt. When I put the riser back on, it slides in til it hits O rings, tighten knob, also 3 seconds.
I just got my T6A in yesterday. Dropped right into both my T3 CTR .308 and T3X 6.5. When I put any torque at all on the action screws after assembly, i can't get the magazine latch to fully engage. When I install factory DBM with magazine engaged first, reassemble and then torque action screws, can't get the magazine out as it would come out normally. Sent a pm to a member here but thought I would throw it out here as well.
Me and two of my friends had the same problem too with our T6A in our CTRs, just put a washer between the DMB and the stock in the second screw hole. Problem solved. You could do a little bedding work there if you like how it works.
So has anyone purchased an aftermarket enlarged bolt knob and handle and wants to go a different route? Shoot me a PM if you want to sell one. Looking for a smooth or pineapple style.
30 Nos on T3x Action finally scoped with a Tangent Theta 5-25 and ready to rock. Will be feeding it 215 Bergers out of our TRG Bottom Metal with an OAL of 3.50”
Damn that’s a nice rifle @ /redrooster
I haven’t read through the whole thread if this has already been covered but I bought a McMillan A5 CTR inlet and it fits perfectly as far as I can tell with the factory trigger. However, with the Timney two stage installed, it needs some additional material removed to work properly. Just an FYI.
Also, is there anyone that makes a swept back ball bolt handle under a $100?
I haven’t read through the whole thread if this has already been covered but I bought a McMillan A5 CTR inlet and it fits perfectly as far as I can tell with the factory trigger. However, with the Timney two stage installed, it needs some additional material removed to work properly. Just an FYI.
Also, is there anyone that makes a swept back ball bolt handle under a $100?
Yeah, Sterk make's the AI style swept bolt knob's. Forgot his contact info but someone could chime in.
@lawofsavage
You’d have to source your own ball, but that could probably be done for less than $60
http://www.anarchyoutdoors.com/tikka-bolt-handle-upgrade/
You’d have to source your own ball, but that could probably be done for less than $60
http://www.anarchyoutdoors.com/tikka-bolt-handle-upgrade/
Looks like Manners updated their webpage with info about the new Tikka mini chassis...
http://mannersstocks.com/tikka-stock-chassis
Can't wait to see a picture of the new EH1TK.
I'll be temped to have one for my CTR...
http://mannersstocks.com/tikka-stock-chassis
Can't wait to see a picture of the new EH1TK.
I'll be temped to have one for my CTR...
Yeah Sterk here, can contact me here or Facebook or email [email protected] I'll be making more swept handles in March. Gen2 Titanium shrouds will be produced too. The swept handles are $100AU which works out to around $79US. Thats for a handle with knob attached.
Sounds good. Thanks for the replies. I don’t why I had it in my mind that the Sterk handles are really expensive.
Does the $79 include shipping? Just checked out your page and the order process looks really simple.
Does the $79 include shipping? Just checked out your page and the order process looks really simple.
Maybe they look expensive and that tricked you haha. Shipping will depend on where youre located. It's about $19US for tracked international post (from me in Australia to US).
I have just bought a Bravo and instantly found the cheek piece disappointing. I was unaware of the issues prior to buying it. I can live with having to remove it to take the bolt out, but at the height I need it, it fouls the bolt just as you've described. I could Dremel it out but reckon I shouldn't have to. A major design fault that should have never left the production line in my opinion. I also find the pistol grip a bit short and have my little finger hanging free.
@cannoncrossfire , what’s the expected cost for the Gen 2 shrouds? Are they the same as the one shown a few months ago?
I'm out of country for a few more weeks so I haven't got to play with mine yet but Tikkas are all built on the same action length, just with a different bolt stop that places the ledge further forward or back in the raceway to limit bolt travel. Some other members mentioned that the SA T3 has the shortest bolt stop and would keep the bolt from hitting the cheekpiece. The CTR is supposed to have a longer stop and the LA an even longer one. I was asking to see if perhaps the SA non-CTR Tikka didn't have this issue since another member posted that in post #362 of this thread:
http://www.snipershide.com/shooting/threads/new-bling-from-krg.6562935/page-8
The gen2 shroud actually takes a little longer to machine but I've been sourcing material and trying to bring the cost down if possible. They will either be the same $105AU ($83US) or $100AU ($79US). Will post photos in the next week or so, but yes its the same as what Frank/Lowlight had posted.
So I have this build in mind. Tikka T3, Mountain Tactical bottom metal, 28 Nosler, 1:8 twist throated for the 195 Berger so I can feed it from the mag (3.600 likely). I know im eating up a little space in the case by not going with a m700 variant, but the difference between 3.600 and 3.740 doesn't seem that big of a deal to me. I'll likely leave the walnut stock on the rifle as I like the feel of wood on a hunting rifle. Am I dumb?
I don’t think you are leaving too much on the table with 3.600 in a Tikka and you’ll be glad to have the extra room the MT DBM will give you with the 195s
Thank´s man.
That is T3X XTR 260rem and chassis is MDT ESS with recoted OD green.
Ase Utra SL5i can with Cole-Tac metal phyton cover and Atlas prs bipop, with riflestick spiked feets.
Finally got some decent data on my new match rifle. 22" 6.5 Creed, I was wanting to run Prime ammo only but was never satisfied with group sizes:
So decided to try Hornady Match 140 ELDMs before hand loading:
I was impressed with the results of the Hornady. I may hand load in the future (if I ever have time), but for now I'll be running Hornady. Next range day will be out at distance.
Hello all, new to the Hide and new to Tikka. I just picked up a T3X CTR in .308 and I'm very glad to have found this resource. My plan is just to shoot the hell out of it first, but have been eyeing replacement stocks/chassis. Can anyone comment on the lock up of the folder on the McRees G10? Also, @260284 I am in the Wichita area as well and am interested on how your transaction with GGS went. I am cautious of purchasing from vendors outside of the US, but have only read good things about them so far.
