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Question. What is the preferred method for bedding a T3? I e done several Remington 700s and taped of the front and side of the recoil lug. Do you just ed the entire action and do not worry about taping the recoil lug area. Any help is appreciated. Or just leave it alone? It’s in a Mcmillan A3 ultralight
JRB, my opinion.... the only reason why I would bed an action/recoil lug is to stop it wobbling around. Putting tape on a lug makes a bedding just about useless. With a T3 one tends to glue the recoil lug into the stock permanently as strong and stiff as one can. Very important is that the Lug is glued in while bedding and exactly in the right position. T3 Lug has not a huge engagement with the action. We manufacture carbon fibre stocks and bed quite a few T3's (in the hundreds). With a hunting stock we use tape to increase the diameter of the front part of the barrel in the stock also to centre and position. Two-three layers of tape on the barrel just forward of the action to keep bedding away from the barrel, in this case several T3's can be used in that stock. Action and barrel well waxed except the recoil lug slot. The lug positioned in the centre and pushed to the forward wall of the slot and then fixed with a drop of super glue. (Recoil lug de-oiled and not waxed) We have 8mm holes in our carbon pillars in the stocks and therefore use an 8mm pin with M6 thread instead of a screw when bedding. Centers and positions better.
In our tactical stocks our bedding action get's centre rings on the barrel as the barrel channel is moulded and 100% true, action is bedded free floating with no stress. Even for my own tactical rifles I use our bedding action. Every T3 will fit.
edi
In our tactical stocks our bedding action get's centre rings on the barrel as the barrel channel is moulded and 100% true, action is bedded free floating with no stress. Even for my own tactical rifles I use our bedding action. Every T3 will fit.
edi
Two Tikka T3 bedding links I recently bumped into in case they help.
and
https://www.ballisticstudies.com/Knowledgebase/MatchGrade+Bedding+Compound+Instructions.html
and
https://www.ballisticstudies.com/Knowledgebase/MatchGrade+Bedding+Compound+Instructions.html
Latest Tikka project. .223 Varmint with the 24” 1:8 twist barrel. Built a custom laminated stock: walnut, cherry and Jamara. Inletted for CTR bottom metal, bedded with Marine Tex. Converted to use MDT 223 magazines, allows 2.5” OAL, SMKs currently used. Added a Mountain Tactical rail and a CTR bolt handle. Currently likes 24.5gr Varget withLC brass and CCI450 primers.
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Just bought a tikka tac A1. Some questions.
1. How hard are barreles to replace. Ie does anyone currently make an action wrench. Or pre made barrels.
2. Anyone ever ran a sphur 40moa cant on this gun. I will be putting a nightforce Actacr. Want to make sure it will work
3. Cheapest place to buy mags
Anyone making an 20-30 MOA rail that actually works
I appreciate all information coming in.
1. How hard are barreles to replace. Ie does anyone currently make an action wrench. Or pre made barrels.
2. Anyone ever ran a sphur 40moa cant on this gun. I will be putting a nightforce Actacr. Want to make sure it will work
3. Cheapest place to buy mags
Anyone making an 20-30 MOA rail that actually works
I appreciate all information coming in.
I'm new to the forum. Just purchased a T3x! Got rid of the stock, and I am now in the process of building it out on a chassis. The longest range I have access to is 500yrds, so I'm looking for a 0 MOA rail off of a CTR preferably black. Willing to pay $40.
Tried to post in want ad section, but it would not let me since I'm so new.
Tried to post in want ad section, but it would not let me since I'm so new.
Long time Tikka owner posting a question. I'm contemplating a new build. Wondering if someone who has had the same barreled action in a chassis and a target/competition traditional stock has some feedback on which produced the most consistent, accurate results (using the same loads). I'm looking at an Element, but also love McM stocks.
2) I ran a 30 MOA on two Tikka's. I had a Tikka Varmint .223 with a Ken Farrell 30 MOA base and a Steiner T5Xi 3-15x50mm. I'm currently using a Tikka CTR in 260 Rem. with the factory 0 MOA base in Burris XTR Signature Rings with inserts giving me 30 MOA of cant. I've got a Bushnell LRHS 3-12x44mm mounted on it. I found no need to exceed 30 MOA for any of the rounds or ranges I regularly shoot.
3) EuroOptic has the best price I've found on CTR Mags. https://www.eurooptic.com/S54065122-Tikka-T3-Compact-Tactical-Rifle-CTR-Magazine-260.aspx
So, this review has been a long time coming, too long in my opinion but oh well. A few months ago, I received all the swept bolt handles Sterk, Anarchy and Glades. You guys may have seen the pictures as they came trickling through the thread. After a few months of playing with them I feel I can give a good review on them.
I will be upfront and say the glades didn't make it past the first month (hence the short write up). I didn't feel their "swept" handle was much more than the factory and the rounded knob also didn’t offer much more than the factory tactical knob. Therefore, I removed it and its sat since. I feel that it didn’t suite what I was looking for in a swept handle/rounded knob combo. With a $60 price tag, I can see where it appeals to some people since you get both the handle and rounded knob.
Another thing to note with the Glades. On the threads that the knob mounts to is forever long so you are going to have to cut it down if you are wanting to use any other knob with their handle (I have also discovered this on my CZ455 handle I have from them).
Next up was the Anarchy outdoors bolt handle with the PTG rounded knob. The bolt handle has potential but the PTG rounded knob left a lot to be desired. It was too small and looked awkward given how thick the Anarchy handle is, after I installed the Glades rounded knob it made a huge difference. But I recently purchased the Area 419 finger grooved bolt knob (pictured attached to my Anarchy handle) and can’t say enough good things about it.
Appearance wise, the Anarchy looks unfinished with its bare stainless steel (although they do offer a black cerakote handle now) and some tooling marks. However, they were generous with the tolerances on the dovetail going into the bolt body so it did make for an easy install when compared to the factory bolt handle. Being that it’s at $40 for bare Stainless and $46 for Black, it’s very well priced. They do also offer a discount if you buy the handle and knob combo, they do not however offer a rounded bolt knob at this time.
Last but not least is the Sterk. I will be honest and say I have the most time running this bolt handle/rounded knob combo as it is on my primary match rifle. I have nothing but good things to say about this guy. With the sweep it puts the rounded knob right where it needs to be. The fit and finish far surpasses that of the Glades and Anarchy handles. Also noting that if you get on the list soon enough he has a list of cerakote colors to choose from. The only difficulty I had with the Sterk is that due to the cerakote and tight tolerances, it did make for some trouble installing it into the bolt body. However, its not a negative in the slightest.
Sterk handles are worth what John is asking for them. Of the 3 options, they are the most expensive coming in at around $76US, but worth every penny. The reason for this is due too the amount of machining that goes into each handle, as each one is CNC machined and sanded/polished by hand . With only doing 2, maybe 3 batches a year you have to keep an eye on his facebook page to secure your spot.
I have been asked by several people just how the Sterk and Anarchy handles differ from each other. I took measurements of each handle going off the top of the safety and from the side of the stock as I feel these are both some what equal spots on both rifles. The Sterk, from the safety is 1.5” from where the handle meets the knob, and came off the stock at .5”. The Anarchy, from the safety is 1 3/8”, and came off the stock at .75”. Doesn’t seem like a lot of difference but when you play with them both, it is a vast difference.
Both handles are a good option, you can’t go wrong with either. But if I could only have one, I would have to stick with my Sterks.
I will be upfront and say the glades didn't make it past the first month (hence the short write up). I didn't feel their "swept" handle was much more than the factory and the rounded knob also didn’t offer much more than the factory tactical knob. Therefore, I removed it and its sat since. I feel that it didn’t suite what I was looking for in a swept handle/rounded knob combo. With a $60 price tag, I can see where it appeals to some people since you get both the handle and rounded knob.
Another thing to note with the Glades. On the threads that the knob mounts to is forever long so you are going to have to cut it down if you are wanting to use any other knob with their handle (I have also discovered this on my CZ455 handle I have from them).
Next up was the Anarchy outdoors bolt handle with the PTG rounded knob. The bolt handle has potential but the PTG rounded knob left a lot to be desired. It was too small and looked awkward given how thick the Anarchy handle is, after I installed the Glades rounded knob it made a huge difference. But I recently purchased the Area 419 finger grooved bolt knob (pictured attached to my Anarchy handle) and can’t say enough good things about it.
Appearance wise, the Anarchy looks unfinished with its bare stainless steel (although they do offer a black cerakote handle now) and some tooling marks. However, they were generous with the tolerances on the dovetail going into the bolt body so it did make for an easy install when compared to the factory bolt handle. Being that it’s at $40 for bare Stainless and $46 for Black, it’s very well priced. They do also offer a discount if you buy the handle and knob combo, they do not however offer a rounded bolt knob at this time.
Last but not least is the Sterk. I will be honest and say I have the most time running this bolt handle/rounded knob combo as it is on my primary match rifle. I have nothing but good things to say about this guy. With the sweep it puts the rounded knob right where it needs to be. The fit and finish far surpasses that of the Glades and Anarchy handles. Also noting that if you get on the list soon enough he has a list of cerakote colors to choose from. The only difficulty I had with the Sterk is that due to the cerakote and tight tolerances, it did make for some trouble installing it into the bolt body. However, its not a negative in the slightest.
Sterk handles are worth what John is asking for them. Of the 3 options, they are the most expensive coming in at around $76US, but worth every penny. The reason for this is due too the amount of machining that goes into each handle, as each one is CNC machined and sanded/polished by hand . With only doing 2, maybe 3 batches a year you have to keep an eye on his facebook page to secure your spot.
I have been asked by several people just how the Sterk and Anarchy handles differ from each other. I took measurements of each handle going off the top of the safety and from the side of the stock as I feel these are both some what equal spots on both rifles. The Sterk, from the safety is 1.5” from where the handle meets the knob, and came off the stock at .5”. The Anarchy, from the safety is 1 3/8”, and came off the stock at .75”. Doesn’t seem like a lot of difference but when you play with them both, it is a vast difference.
Both handles are a good option, you can’t go wrong with either. But if I could only have one, I would have to stick with my Sterks.
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A while back, Anarchy outdoors sent me 2 of their scope rails for me to review. Its taken me awhile to get this review out but here it is.
Anarchy Outdoors has just recently began playing in the Tikka aftermarket world. Starting with the introduction of a swept handle, and now offering 2 scope rails. They offer both a 30 MOA/8.74 MIL or a 40 MOA/11.66. Made of 7075-T6 Aluminum, they are extremely rigid and don’t offer any flex. They come with the integral recoil lug so no need to worry about your scope shifting during recoil. Made to 1913 Picatinny specifications, I didn’t have any issues mountings a variety of scope ring brands, too include Warne, Vortex, Seekins, Leupold, and Steiner.
Finished in a Type lll Hardcoat anodizing, after repeated mounting and dismounting the were little too no visible chips in the finish. Looking over both rails, all the finish is evenly applied. No sharp edges were present, also no machining marks could be found.
Talking with Aaron with Anarchy, and a few fellow members from the Tikka forum on snipershide, a few concerns were brought up. First, a few members expressed how they could not get their scope to mount to rail securely. Aaron expressed that there were a few from the first batches that were produced under spec, and has been corrected with all future batches. Second, unable to zero the scope once it has been mounted to the rail. I didn’t have this problem with either of the rails sent to me for testing.
For this review, I used my Vortex Razor Gen1 mounted in Vortex/Seekins matched rings. The scope rail I used before testing was a Mountain Tactical Elite 20MOA extended rail. The Gen1 Razor has 125MOA of internal adjustment. With a 20MOA rail, I was able to use 78MOA of the 125 which with my current 140RDF load could get me out too 1690yds with only dialing. Once I mounted the 30MOA up and got it zeroed I could get an additional 9.5MOA of adjustment. Taking me from 78MOA, to 87.5MOA and out to 1780yds without dialing. With the 40MOA rail, I got an extra (and I was surprised by this), but I got the full extra 20MOA of adjustment. Taking me to 98MOA and 1870yds.
Overall, I’m very pleased with the both of these scope rails and highly recommend them. Fit and finish is great and the price, being at $50 for either the 30MOA & 40MOA they come in right at or below the prices of other rails. I will however, give a slight edge to the Mountain Tactical rail and they do offer the extended rail, 17 slots over the Anarchy’s 16 slots. However, it is a $90 difference for one extra picatinny slot, but you do get a steel base and not aluminum.
Don’t hesitate to pick one of these up, and also check out what other products Anarchy Outdoors has to offer for Tikka rifles!
Anarchy Outdoors has just recently began playing in the Tikka aftermarket world. Starting with the introduction of a swept handle, and now offering 2 scope rails. They offer both a 30 MOA/8.74 MIL or a 40 MOA/11.66. Made of 7075-T6 Aluminum, they are extremely rigid and don’t offer any flex. They come with the integral recoil lug so no need to worry about your scope shifting during recoil. Made to 1913 Picatinny specifications, I didn’t have any issues mountings a variety of scope ring brands, too include Warne, Vortex, Seekins, Leupold, and Steiner.
Finished in a Type lll Hardcoat anodizing, after repeated mounting and dismounting the were little too no visible chips in the finish. Looking over both rails, all the finish is evenly applied. No sharp edges were present, also no machining marks could be found.
Talking with Aaron with Anarchy, and a few fellow members from the Tikka forum on snipershide, a few concerns were brought up. First, a few members expressed how they could not get their scope to mount to rail securely. Aaron expressed that there were a few from the first batches that were produced under spec, and has been corrected with all future batches. Second, unable to zero the scope once it has been mounted to the rail. I didn’t have this problem with either of the rails sent to me for testing.
For this review, I used my Vortex Razor Gen1 mounted in Vortex/Seekins matched rings. The scope rail I used before testing was a Mountain Tactical Elite 20MOA extended rail. The Gen1 Razor has 125MOA of internal adjustment. With a 20MOA rail, I was able to use 78MOA of the 125 which with my current 140RDF load could get me out too 1690yds with only dialing. Once I mounted the 30MOA up and got it zeroed I could get an additional 9.5MOA of adjustment. Taking me from 78MOA, to 87.5MOA and out to 1780yds without dialing. With the 40MOA rail, I got an extra (and I was surprised by this), but I got the full extra 20MOA of adjustment. Taking me to 98MOA and 1870yds.
Overall, I’m very pleased with the both of these scope rails and highly recommend them. Fit and finish is great and the price, being at $50 for either the 30MOA & 40MOA they come in right at or below the prices of other rails. I will however, give a slight edge to the Mountain Tactical rail and they do offer the extended rail, 17 slots over the Anarchy’s 16 slots. However, it is a $90 difference for one extra picatinny slot, but you do get a steel base and not aluminum.
Don’t hesitate to pick one of these up, and also check out what other products Anarchy Outdoors has to offer for Tikka rifles!
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what kind of barrel life are you getting with the 243?
Do you mean if it will match up to the rail on the handguard? I don't think it will, looking at pictures of the Tac A1, it looks like they cut it off flush right after the first mounting screw.
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The mountain tactical gen 2's are $10 more for an anodized aluminum rail (same material as the anarchy).
The mountain tactical gen 3's are the $90 more but you are getting a 17-4 stainless steel rail (stronger material, more of a pain to work with).
Finished my tikka 6.5 build. Bought the Tikka T3X CTR 20" stainless in 6.5cm and dropped it in the Cadex Competition Lite chassis.
-Factory T3X CTR 20"
-TBAC Ultra 9
-factory 0MOA Tikka rail
-Spuhr 20MOA 1.5" rings
-Vortex AMG
FYI I barely had enough clearance with the 1.5" height spuhr with the AMG if anyone is building something similar. Cheers
-Factory T3X CTR 20"
-TBAC Ultra 9
-factory 0MOA Tikka rail
-Spuhr 20MOA 1.5" rings
-Vortex AMG
FYI I barely had enough clearance with the 1.5" height spuhr with the AMG if anyone is building something similar. Cheers
Picked up my T3X TAC A1 this week. Optic/mount is temporary until I figure out what I'm going to put on it. Can't wait to put a few though this thing!
Very nice ? I am debating on SS vs Blued CTR and I have the same chassis and like the looks of your set up ??
Thanks man. I actually ordered a blued CTR and the SS showed up so I figured I would just cerakote it when it went in for re barrel but after getting it all together I kinda like it. I set this up for practice and a back up match rig but it has been hanging in there with rigs that I've got a ton more money into. You wont be dissapointed.
Currently running H1000 producing 3140fps/105gr Hybrid and no pressure whatsoever - not sure re barrel life but will be happy to stay sub moa to 2500rds. My previous barrel went south at 1900rds with H4350/115 dtacs.
You have the factory 10" twist barrel? That's interesting, I assumed the 105's wouldn't stabilize.
Thanks for the info. I've been debating switching to a 6mm caliber and I like how available brass is and everything is for the 243Win.
I'll stop sidetracking this thread now but this is a good read re the .243: http://www.snipershide.com/shooting...er-who-is-using-this-caliber-for-prs.6506779/ in particular checkout @redneckbmxer24's info re - it's good stuff.
First round of testing done. Worked on Hornady 140g ELD vs Prime 130g today. All shots done from 100 yards. Did five rounds each for a group cleaning before each group and Checking bore temp to and allowing the rifle to cool to the same starting temp for each. Was trying to give the best equal test despite my shortcomings. FOllowing these ten rounds I did five each again alternating between them again at 100 yards. The targets speak for themselves. Have two more ammo brands to test before making a final decision. All in all I am impressed with my CTR.
@snbyiggidy1 my CTR shoots just about the same. I was hoping it would like Prime better, but the Hornady 140 shines nicely. If you're looking for some budget ammo, the Hornady American gunner shoots REAL well in my CTR
Been shooting Reloader 17 for a few years now with 6.5, but the temp issues had finally gotten to me. Picked up a few pounds of 16 and wow, im impressed! This groups was 42.4 grains ( do your own load workup ) with 140 hornady bthp in 1x Hornady brass and cci200 primers. Most of the loads from 41.4-42.8 shot in the .6’s. This group center to center is at .248.
Ill gather chrono data next outting with temp readings as well. Impacts were right on with my other load so im guessing 2600fps (20” barrel)
I just picked up a T3x Tac a1 last week, then got sent out of town for work and havent even played with it yet. And it still needs some glass.
I can't wait to get it out and start shooting it.
I can't wait to get it out and start shooting it.
Anyone aware of the availability of a single shot loading block for Tikka T3X A1 magazines? I shoot 300 and 600 yard bench, and would like a simple method to avoid using standard magazines....
Thanks,
George
Thanks,
George
Not a loading block but could be used for your purpose.
Original Bob Sled from Mountain Tactical or
Single shot follower
https://tikkaperformance.com/index.php?_route_=tikka-parts/tikka-mags&product_id=188964
https://tikkaperformance.com/index.php?_route_=tikka-parts/tikka-mags/tikka-sled
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FYI those appear to be for the single stack mags, not the CTR/a1 mag. Check out the comments below each product.
It states :The Single Shot Follower will fit all Tikka T3/T3x factory magazines, and will work with all caliber cartridges but NOT the CTR because the CTR is a different magazine platform.
The CTR and the TAC a1 both use the same magazines.
I have single loaded my CTR in a PRS match before. I keep a 2 round holder on my rifle and just drop them in on the magazine and they feed fine.
Almost there, just waiting on the stock now.
The 4-16 ATACR is a perfectly matched optic for the CTR
Not much that rig can't do and will only be made better by the MannersThe 4-16 ATACR is a perfectly matched optic for the CTR
Thanks mate, and thanks for the advice re: optic selection. That T3 reticle is busy, going to take some getting used to. Hopefully the manners turns up this month.
NOOB question. I have a TAC A1 but it is not a practical hunting rifle. I want a Tikka in a 7mm rem mag, but none of them have enough barrel to thread. What would be the best parts rifle to buy to build off of? I know I would need a new barrel and would replace the stock, but I am at a loss of where to even start.
Thanks
Thanks
Do you have access to Sauer rifles? They would be my go to for a lightweight hunting rifle, the 100 is well priced and is threaded for a can. I'm pretty sure it has some stupid thread though, like 17x1 or something random. They can supply their own cans and muzzle brakes anyway.
Just get a t3 in whatever variety you like, I've threaded a 300 win mag 9/16-24 and it worked just fine.
After days of reading in this thread, I gather all TIKKAS are long action of some sort, will I need to get one that is already “long action” or can any action be turned into a 7mag? Is the T3X any better than the T3?
It would be nice to get a pawn shop find since most of it will be thrown away...
