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The tikka is finally finished. Rebarreled and back at home. 7mmSAW, 26” 8T Proof steel barrel.
Edit: Updated pic. Got rid of those things that butler creek refers to as “scope caps” for a better set.
Edit: Updated pic. Got rid of those things that butler creek refers to as “scope caps” for a better set.
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Tikka T3 CTR was only Tikka rifle in T3 line what had TRG magazine, that why that notch had to do in to the receiver, and CTR in T3 line was the last new model in that rifle series, that´s why that notch is not in any other T3 rifle than CTR, and this was T3 line.
Now this new T3X line has more than one model what uses that trg style, ctr magazine, so that´s why all the T3X action has that notch in the receiver.
I had to order the reamer mate. WTO were kind enough to sell me one, it was made by JGS
Agreed, there are pros and cons. I just meant to address the fact that many are led to believe the OEM setup is inferior without any other factors in consideration.
-Stooxie
I'd love to see a picture of a single stack 5 round AICS magazine being flush with anything. I put an MDT 308 5 round mag next to a 10 round CTR and they weren't so far off. A 10 round towers over both. I'm not trying to put down AICS, just saying it shouldn't be an automatic decision for any CTR owner to switch.
-Stooxie
The CTR mags are about the same size as an AW mag (with makes sense, since they are both double stack, double feed mags). Sure looks to me like an AW/CTR mag is in between the two AICS mag sizes... (my CTR mags are up in MT, or I'd include it in the picture).
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Awesome, thank you!
So confirms what I said
I guess it depends on the definition of "flush." I take it to mean flush with the forearm, like a hinged floorplate. The 5 round hangs down almost has much as a the CTR 10.
Again, just pointing out some pros and cons.
-Stooxie
So confirms what I said
I guess it depends on the definition of "flush." I take it to mean flush with the forearm, like a hinged floorplate. The 5 round hangs down almost has much as a the CTR 10.Again, just pointing out some pros and cons.
-Stooxie
If anyone is interested....
I hate dealing with Optics Planet but I just scored a Timney 2 stage for $121.80 and free shipping using this code BFCYBER.
They are on sale for $136.85 which from what I have seen on average they go for around $175
I hate dealing with Optics Planet but I just scored a Timney 2 stage for $121.80 and free shipping using this code BFCYBER.
They are on sale for $136.85 which from what I have seen on average they go for around $175
Thanks for the tip, that's a good price, I just picked one up too. Been wanting to try one for a while.
Serious question, are the Timneys any better than factory triggers with upgraded springs? The break on my factory trigger feels better than a Calvin Elite on my buddy’s rifle. Maybe a little heavier but definitely cleaner.
It is a good price.
My first one I paid like $165 and thought that was a good deal.
I've seen some really smooth single stage Tikka's including my own but I wanted to try a 2 stage and the Timney after I got used to it spoiled me.
It almost feels awkward for me shooting a single stage now.....
I'm about to switch to ACIS mags and binders or no binder plates. I would like to run without so I can run longer OAL but dont want to have to notch the action.
Any issues running ARC mags in a KRG or Manners chassis?
Currently CBI, PVA, Hardy, Carbon6 and Sin arms offer pre-fits. Anyone else?
Prefered smith for a shouldered barrel install?
Anyone got a line on a sub $500 action?
Currently CBI, PVA, Hardy, Carbon6 and Sin arms offer pre-fits. Anyone else?
Prefered smith for a shouldered barrel install?
Anyone got a line on a sub $500 action?
I used a company called Dresden Gun Company for my barrel on my match gun. He turned down the shank of my Heavy palma to perfectly match my receiver and re-sanded the barrel to make it so you could not tell it was cut (tikka's can only take about a 1.875" shank before they are larger than the receiver). The gun is hammer and has no problem cleaning sub moa KYL racks at 5-900 yards. During load development (first 30 rds down the pipe) it never broke 3/4 moa and settled on a load that prints better than i can shoot, regularly putting the first 2 through he same hole. I have 1300 down it now and plan on going through them next barrel.
I've found a few donors at gun shops because most of the time they sit on the shelf in lieu of Rem 700 and those style guns. Picked up my last action for $320 after tax.
Does anyone happen to know the exact specification of the Tikka T3 CTR action length? In other words, I've seen referenced that all Tikkas are long action with bolt throw stops and a variety of other descriptions. I'd like to order a chassis system for the T3 CTR and the question comes up when selecting which action to configure for on several chassis system web sites. They often ask "long" or "short" action Tikkas and the subject is a bit confusing in that regard. Wondering if anyone knows the exact physical description/terminology for the T3 CTR (not T3x) action. Thanks.
They’re all the same length. That question is likely differentiating the magazine well you’d get so if you’re shooting a short action cartridge and want to use SA AICS mags, select short. Vice versa for long. The actions are the same.
I've got 2 tikka triggers, one is from a T3, the other from a T3X. Both of them have a very detectable amount of creep that has gotten worse over time.
I'm currently running the T3 trigger in my T3X action which is on my match rifle because that trigger is slightly better. I don't care one way or the other on single stage or two stage, I just can't handle the creep in both of my factory triggers anymore.
I've shot Timney's Tikka trigger on my buddies CTR and it broke better than both of my factory triggers.
We'll see if I like it long term.
Thing of it is, the CTR uses a square box magazine that is a double stack, 10 round while the others are single stack to my knowledge. So given that information, it only matters that I select Short Action and not Long Action when configuring a chassis, correct? It doesn't really matter if the magazine well is any different on the CTR than the others as long as it is a short action chassis that I select, is what I'm getting at. Thanks.
I shot Josh at MDT a PM yesterday and he said he is running the no binder plate mags with his Tikka. I ordered 2 without the plates for my new MDT LSS XL gen2 I have coming.
I'm curious about how the CDI Precision Bottom Metal fits with MDT's AICS Magazines - which version of the mags work out of the box?
Binder Plate or no Binder Plate?
They probably had it all worked out in - house, both magazines and chassis being their products (I'm assuming Josh uses an MDT chassis)....
Not sure what the relation of the CDI Precision Bottom metals and magazines is, relative to the feed ramp (?). They were probably designed using Accuracy International AICS magazines as a reference (short OAL), even before the MDT magazines (no binder plate, long OAL) came into being...
I just emailed CDI Precision, hoping for a reply soon.
CDI Precision emailed back.
Good to go without the Binder Plate, excellent!
Good to go without the Binder Plate, excellent!
Most chassis’ aren’t designed to use CTR mags with the Tikka. Don’t buy a short action chassis expecting to use it with CTR mags unless you know exactly what you’re getting.
Since I’d wager 90%+ of Tikka chassis out there are designed to use AICS magazines, if you want to run short action AICS mags, buy a SA chassis. If you want to run long action AICS mags, buy a long action chassis.
The action being a CTR action has nothing to do with you selecting LA or SA.
If you want to run a chassis system that uses the CTR mags, I’m not aware of one but I’m sure one exists.
I've got an MDT ESS chassis for a Tikka. You can't take advantage of longer COAL's as the inlet for the magazine positions the magazine further forward than any other chassis or dbm systems I run on my Tikka's. I'm not sure why MDT set it up this way but I've relegated the chassis for use on my 223 and 6 Dasher Tikka builds as it isn't a problem running shorter COALs. My 7-08's and 7mm RSAUM run COAL's from 2.885" out to 2.950" and the MDT will not accommodate this. I don't feel you should be notching feed ramps or moving them forward to alleviate a design issue.
KRG BRAVO, Wombat Ordnance AI style Chassis, Lumley Arms DBM, B&C Target/Competition (CTR DBM or ATLASWORX CTR/AICS DBM) all run fine and can take advantage of mags with nil front binder plate.
Current mags all run perfect with nil feed issues. Alpha Type 2, Alpha WSM 10 Shot, Accurate Mag (nil front plate), AI AICS mags with front plate and PVA BR mag kit, MDT 223 Polymer mags.
KRG BRAVO, Wombat Ordnance AI style Chassis, Lumley Arms DBM, B&C Target/Competition (CTR DBM or ATLASWORX CTR/AICS DBM) all run fine and can take advantage of mags with nil front binder plate.
Current mags all run perfect with nil feed issues. Alpha Type 2, Alpha WSM 10 Shot, Accurate Mag (nil front plate), AI AICS mags with front plate and PVA BR mag kit, MDT 223 Polymer mags.
Is it worth making the switch to MDT mags from the CTR mags? The rifle I posted above is going to be the backup comp/plinking gun so I was thinking of just getting a second CTR mag to cover off on it should it need to drop into a comp role. There is a decent sale on MDT mags at the moment though...
If the CTR mags are running smoothly I wouldn't. You would also more than likely have to change the bottom metal. I have no problem with either mag system. If it ain't broke don't fix it.
Thanks WVHick. I appreciate the clarification. Some pretty good BF sales and wanted to go ahead with the purchase and nobody is at the companies today.
Very nice! What contour is that? I have a Proof going on my Tikka as we speak. Who’s your smith?
This is a heavy palma. The smith that did this is in Aus mate, might take a bit of time to get your rifle back if you use him
I’ve got another rifle I need to pick up that has a medium palma if you want a comparison pic
Got some rounds through my new LH Tikka Tac A1 6.5CM. Shooting Prime 130s at 100 yards yielded this nice little 5 shot group on the first attempt. Thing is a hammer, and a keeper.
Got to take the 6.5 out to distance for the first time today. I can only get 840yrds at our home range but the results are promising. The barrel is SLOW shooting 140s, but I can’t complain about accuracy.
I am impressed. The glass, the reticle, the turrets, it’s all top notch.
I’ll qualify my comments in that I don’t have a PST, Razor, or NF, S&B, etc. and dropping $1k on a scope is a big deal to me. I have Vortex Strike Eagles, Diamondback Tacticals, Athlon Argos, Talos, Midas, and Burris XTRII. The Ares ETR is the best of all (as it should be for the price).
But, it’s really a very nice scope. I’d encourage you to check one out if you’re interested. Heck buy it on Amazon and then send it back if it’s not what you want. I’ve done that with several optics over the recent years.
However, at roughly half the price, the new Midas Tac 6-24 is also a very nice optic. I have one on my Larue 6.5CM and am very pleased. I will probably buy another Midas Tac before I buy another Ares ETR - given the price difference and performance similarities for my use.
I've seen other people talk about removing that sling stud that sits below the QD hole with no luck.
If it's like anything else that Tikka cod locks it's probably got their epoxy holding it in so you might be able to apply heat to it to soften it and try a strong Phillips head screw driver put through the hole to use as a lever and slowly apply pressure to it as you apply the heat....
Anyone running a long action with a WSM/Saum in a Manners/McMillan stock. I'd like to build a 7 saum with a LA bottom metal, looking for options
