Tikka T3 Thread

The tikka is finally finished. Rebarreled and back at home. 7mmSAW, 26” 8T Proof steel barrel.

CEB35EDD-6594-43F0-9253-EDB0163E7C74.jpeg


Edit: Updated pic. Got rid of those things that butler creek refers to as “scope caps” for a better set.
 
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I'm not sure if all T3X receivers have the transverse notch near the front of the bolt path cutout as shown above, but only the CTR in the regular T3 does. I have three T3 receivers and only the CTR one has said notch for the CTR magazine.

Tikka T3 CTR was only Tikka rifle in T3 line what had TRG magazine, that why that notch had to do in to the receiver, and CTR in T3 line was the last new model in that rifle series, that´s why that notch is not in any other T3 rifle than CTR, and this was T3 line.
Now this new T3X line has more than one model what uses that trg style, ctr magazine, so that´s why all the T3X action has that notch in the receiver.
 
He bought a t3x not a ctr. He doesn't have ctr parts. He only has the t3x flush mag. So either he is at best 4+1 or more likely 3+1.

There are people that prefer AICS mags. There are also others that may already have AICS mags and want to be able to have mag compatibility across multiple rifles made by multiple companies.

Arguably better? Maybe for you but not for everybody. There are more reasons for doing things other than overall length of the mag.

Agreed, there are pros and cons. I just meant to address the fact that many are led to believe the OEM setup is inferior without any other factors in consideration.

-Stooxie
 
Yeah, I'm going to have to call BS on the length statement. The CTR mag is in between the lengths of the 5rd AICS (which is flush on most chassis) and the 10rd AICS. It's more along the lines (lengthwise) of the AW mag. And yes, I have all the mags I mentioned.

I'd love to see a picture of a single stack 5 round AICS magazine being flush with anything. I put an MDT 308 5 round mag next to a 10 round CTR and they weren't so far off. A 10 round towers over both. I'm not trying to put down AICS, just saying it shouldn't be an automatic decision for any CTR owner to switch.

-Stooxie
 
I'd love to see a picture of a single stack 5 round AICS magazine being flush with anything. I put an MDT 308 5 round mag next to a 10 round CTR and they weren't so far off. A 10 round towers over both. I'm not trying to put down AICS, just saying it shouldn't be an automatic decision for any CTR owner to switch.

-Stooxie
Here you go...

5rd AICS r1.jpg


5rd AICS r2.jpg
 
The CTR mags are about the same size as an AW mag (with makes sense, since they are both double stack, double feed mags). Sure looks to me like an AW/CTR mag is in between the two AICS mag sizes... (my CTR mags are up in MT, or I'd include it in the picture).
AICS Mags_editted.jpg
 
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Awesome, thank you!

So confirms what I said ;) I guess it depends on the definition of "flush." I take it to mean flush with the forearm, like a hinged floorplate. The 5 round hangs down almost has much as a the CTR 10.

Again, just pointing out some pros and cons.

-Stooxie
 
I put a standard T3 action without the cut in my t3x CTR factory stock and it works fine. Give it a try and see cause I could not see anything that fits that cut except the ramp on front of the follower and with loaded magazine it does not even touch....

Same here. I run CTR BM/mag on a T3 7mm-08 without issues

Fantastic, thanks gents! Saves me some heartache.
 
If anyone is interested....
I hate dealing with Optics Planet but I just scored a Timney 2 stage for $121.80 and free shipping using this code BFCYBER.
They are on sale for $136.85 which from what I have seen on average they go for around $175
 
If anyone is interested....
I hate dealing with Optics Planet but I just scored a Timney 2 stage for $121.80 and free shipping using this code BFCYBER.
They are on sale for $136.85 which from what I have seen on average they go for around $175

Thanks for the tip, that's a good price, I just picked one up too. Been wanting to try one for a while.
 
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Serious question, are the Timneys any better than factory triggers with upgraded springs? The break on my factory trigger feels better than a Calvin Elite on my buddy’s rifle. Maybe a little heavier but definitely cleaner.
 
Serious question, are the Timneys any better than factory triggers with upgraded springs? The break on my factory trigger feels better than a Calvin Elite on my buddy’s rifle. Maybe a little heavier but definitely cleaner.
I've seen some really smooth single stage Tikka's including my own but I wanted to try a 2 stage and the Timney after I got used to it spoiled me.
It almost feels awkward for me shooting a single stage now.....
 
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Any issues running ARC mags in a KRG or Manners chassis?

Currently CBI, PVA, Hardy, Carbon6 and Sin arms offer pre-fits. Anyone else?

Prefered smith for a shouldered barrel install?

Anyone got a line on a sub $500 action?
 
Any issues running ARC mags in a KRG or Manners chassis?

Currently CBI, PVA, Hardy, Carbon6 and Sin arms offer pre-fits. Anyone else?

Prefered smith for a shouldered barrel install?

Anyone got a line on a sub $500 action?

I used a company called Dresden Gun Company for my barrel on my match gun. He turned down the shank of my Heavy palma to perfectly match my receiver and re-sanded the barrel to make it so you could not tell it was cut (tikka's can only take about a 1.875" shank before they are larger than the receiver). The gun is hammer and has no problem cleaning sub moa KYL racks at 5-900 yards. During load development (first 30 rds down the pipe) it never broke 3/4 moa and settled on a load that prints better than i can shoot, regularly putting the first 2 through he same hole. I have 1300 down it now and plan on going through them next barrel.

I've found a few donors at gun shops because most of the time they sit on the shelf in lieu of Rem 700 and those style guns. Picked up my last action for $320 after tax.
 
I used a company called Dresden Gun Company for my barrel on my match gun. He turned down the shank of my Heavy palma to perfectly match my receiver and re-sanded the barrel to make it so you could not tell it was cut (tikka's can only take about a 1.875" shank before they are larger than the receiver). The gun is hammer and has no problem cleaning sub moa KYL racks at 5-900 yards. During load development (first 30 rds down the pipe) it never broke 3/4 moa and settled on a load that prints better than i can shoot, regularly putting the first 2 through he same hole. I have 1300 down it now and plan on going through them next barrel.

I've found a few donors at gun shops because most of the time they sit on the shelf in lieu of Rem 700 and those style guns. Picked up my last action for $320 after tax.

I can vouch for Dresden's work as well. I've known Adam (owner) for a lot of years (well before he hung his shingle out), and used to hunt predators on Camp Pendleton with him many moons ago. He does good work, and knows his crap.
 
Does anyone happen to know the exact specification of the Tikka T3 CTR action length? In other words, I've seen referenced that all Tikkas are long action with bolt throw stops and a variety of other descriptions. I'd like to order a chassis system for the T3 CTR and the question comes up when selecting which action to configure for on several chassis system web sites. They often ask "long" or "short" action Tikkas and the subject is a bit confusing in that regard. Wondering if anyone knows the exact physical description/terminology for the T3 CTR (not T3x) action. Thanks.
 
Does anyone happen to know the exact specification of the Tikka T3 CTR action length? In other words, I've seen referenced that all Tikkas are long action with bolt throw stops and a variety of other descriptions. I'd like to order a chassis system for the T3 CTR and the question comes up when selecting which action to configure for on several chassis system web sites. They often ask "long" or "short" action Tikkas and the subject is a bit confusing in that regard. Wondering if anyone knows the exact physical description/terminology for the T3 CTR (not T3x) action. Thanks.

They’re all the same length. That question is likely differentiating the magazine well you’d get so if you’re shooting a short action cartridge and want to use SA AICS mags, select short. Vice versa for long. The actions are the same.
 
Binder_Plate_1024x1024.png


No_Binder_Plate_1024x1024.png


I'm curious about how the CDI Precision Bottom Metal fits with MDT's AICS Magazines - which version of the mags work out of the box?

Binder Plate or no Binder Plate?
 
Serious question, are the Timneys any better than factory triggers with upgraded springs? The break on my factory trigger feels better than a Calvin Elite on my buddy’s rifle. Maybe a little heavier but definitely cleaner.

I've got 2 tikka triggers, one is from a T3, the other from a T3X. Both of them have a very detectable amount of creep that has gotten worse over time.

I'm currently running the T3 trigger in my T3X action which is on my match rifle because that trigger is slightly better. I don't care one way or the other on single stage or two stage, I just can't handle the creep in both of my factory triggers anymore.

I've shot Timney's Tikka trigger on my buddies CTR and it broke better than both of my factory triggers.

We'll see if I like it long term.
 
They’re all the same length. That question is likely differentiating the magazine well you’d get so if you’re shooting a short action cartridge and want to use SA AICS mags, select short. Vice versa for long. The actions are the same.
Thing of it is, the CTR uses a square box magazine that is a double stack, 10 round while the others are single stack to my knowledge. So given that information, it only matters that I select Short Action and not Long Action when configuring a chassis, correct? It doesn't really matter if the magazine well is any different on the CTR than the others as long as it is a short action chassis that I select, is what I'm getting at. Thanks.
 
Binder_Plate_1024x1024.png


No_Binder_Plate_1024x1024.png


I'm curious about how the CDI Precision Bottom Metal fits with MDT's AICS Magazines - which version of the mags work out of the box?

Binder Plate or no Binder Plate?
I shot Josh at MDT a PM yesterday and he said he is running the no binder plate mags with his Tikka. I ordered 2 without the plates for my new MDT LSS XL gen2 I have coming.
 
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I shot Josh at MDT a PM yesterday and he said he is running the no binder plate mags with his Tikka. I ordered 2 without the plates for my new MDT LSS XL gen2 I have coming.

They probably had it all worked out in - house, both magazines and chassis being their products (I'm assuming Josh uses an MDT chassis)....

Not sure what the relation of the CDI Precision Bottom metals and magazines is, relative to the feed ramp (?). They were probably designed using Accuracy International AICS magazines as a reference (short OAL), even before the MDT magazines (no binder plate, long OAL) came into being...

I just emailed CDI Precision, hoping for a reply soon.
 
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Thing of it is, the CTR uses a square box magazine that is a double stack, 10 round while the others are single stack to my knowledge. So given that information, it only matters that I select Short Action and not Long Action when configuring a chassis, correct? It doesn't really matter if the magazine well is any different on the CTR than the others as long as it is a short action chassis that I select, is what I'm getting at. Thanks.

Most chassis’ aren’t designed to use CTR mags with the Tikka. Don’t buy a short action chassis expecting to use it with CTR mags unless you know exactly what you’re getting.

Since I’d wager 90%+ of Tikka chassis out there are designed to use AICS magazines, if you want to run short action AICS mags, buy a SA chassis. If you want to run long action AICS mags, buy a long action chassis.

The action being a CTR action has nothing to do with you selecting LA or SA.

If you want to run a chassis system that uses the CTR mags, I’m not aware of one but I’m sure one exists.
 
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I've got an MDT ESS chassis for a Tikka. You can't take advantage of longer COAL's as the inlet for the magazine positions the magazine further forward than any other chassis or dbm systems I run on my Tikka's. I'm not sure why MDT set it up this way but I've relegated the chassis for use on my 223 and 6 Dasher Tikka builds as it isn't a problem running shorter COALs. My 7-08's and 7mm RSAUM run COAL's from 2.885" out to 2.950" and the MDT will not accommodate this. I don't feel you should be notching feed ramps or moving them forward to alleviate a design issue.

KRG BRAVO, Wombat Ordnance AI style Chassis, Lumley Arms DBM, B&C Target/Competition (CTR DBM or ATLASWORX CTR/AICS DBM) all run fine and can take advantage of mags with nil front binder plate.

Current mags all run perfect with nil feed issues. Alpha Type 2, Alpha WSM 10 Shot, Accurate Mag (nil front plate), AI AICS mags with front plate and PVA BR mag kit, MDT 223 Polymer mags.
 
Is it worth making the switch to MDT mags from the CTR mags? The rifle I posted above is going to be the backup comp/plinking gun so I was thinking of just getting a second CTR mag to cover off on it should it need to drop into a comp role. There is a decent sale on MDT mags at the moment though...
 
Is it worth making the switch to MDT mags from the CTR mags? The rifle I posted above is going to be the backup comp/plinking gun so I was thinking of just getting a second CTR mag to cover off on it should it need to drop into a comp role. There is a decent sale on MDT mags at the moment though...
If the CTR mags are running smoothly I wouldn't. You would also more than likely have to change the bottom metal. I have no problem with either mag system. If it ain't broke don't fix it.
 
Most chassis’ aren’t designed to use CTR mags with the Tikka. Don’t buy a short action chassis expecting to use it with CTR mags unless you know exactly what you’re getting.

Since I’d wager 90%+ of Tikka chassis out there are designed to use AICS magazines, if you want to run short action AICS mags, buy a SA chassis. If you want to run long action AICS mags, buy a long action chassis.

The action being a CTR action has nothing to do with you selecting LA or SA.

If you want to run a chassis system that uses the CTR mags, I’m not aware of one but I’m sure one exists.

Thanks WVHick. I appreciate the clarification. Some pretty good BF sales and wanted to go ahead with the purchase and nobody is at the companies today.
 
The tikka is finally finished. Rebarreled and back at home. 7mmSAW, 26” 8T Proof steel barrel.

View attachment 6974632

Edit: Updated pic. Got rid of those things that butler creek refers to as “scope caps” for a better set.

Very nice! What contour is that? I have a Proof going on my Tikka as we speak. Who’s your smith?
 
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What are your thoughts of the Ares ETR?

I am impressed. The glass, the reticle, the turrets, it’s all top notch.

I’ll qualify my comments in that I don’t have a PST, Razor, or NF, S&B, etc. and dropping $1k on a scope is a big deal to me. I have Vortex Strike Eagles, Diamondback Tacticals, Athlon Argos, Talos, Midas, and Burris XTRII. The Ares ETR is the best of all (as it should be for the price).

But, it’s really a very nice scope. I’d encourage you to check one out if you’re interested. Heck buy it on Amazon and then send it back if it’s not what you want. I’ve done that with several optics over the recent years.

However, at roughly half the price, the new Midas Tac 6-24 is also a very nice optic. I have one on my Larue 6.5CM and am very pleased. I will probably buy another Midas Tac before I buy another Ares ETR - given the price difference and performance similarities for my use.
 
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I've seen other people talk about removing that sling stud that sits below the QD hole with no luck.
If it's like anything else that Tikka cod locks it's probably got their epoxy holding it in so you might be able to apply heat to it to soften it and try a strong Phillips head screw driver put through the hole to use as a lever and slowly apply pressure to it as you apply the heat....