-
Having trouble using the site?
Contact support
Who is the go to gunsmith to add muzzle threads to a Tikka Varmint barreled action?
I'm looking for someone to do 5/8x24 threads with the Sig/Q taper.
https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1...D_MUZZLE_THREAD_SPECS.PDF?3664727007919844931
I'm looking for someone to do 5/8x24 threads with the Sig/Q taper.
https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1...D_MUZZLE_THREAD_SPECS.PDF?3664727007919844931
Took my 20 inch 260 CTR out for the first time today. After I got it zeroed I shot this nice little 3 shot group. Yes I know it is only three shoots but time and ammo where limited on my lunch break sight in.
I am still impressed with the quality of my Tikka CTR in 6.5 CM I bought in the spring. I was at my range the other day to sight in at 200 yards so I came up from my 100 yard zero 1-3/8 MOA and this was the first 3 shots. A 3 shot group all in one hole at 200 yards, I don't think I can reproduce that with 1000 rounds and some luck. But the gun will shoot half MOA easily. I have won a bunch of local egg shoots at 300 yards with the gun and a 200 yard shoot also. I shoot Sierra Match King 142 grain in either Lapua brass or Alpha, 10 thousanths off the lands and 40.7 G of H4350 CCI magnum 450 small rifle primer. I look forward to trying some PRS matches out to further distances next year with it. I am learning a lot all the time with this sport.
Damn good shooting! I too have done this once. 3 shot group with 168 fgmm with my tikka T3 in 308 @200 yards... once!
yeah but you're WAY right! j/k, super nice shooting!
One 5-shot group is ok.
But how about 4x5 shots and one 10-shot group
.
This is over a year ago, but still counts.
Tikka T3X CTR 260rem.
Shot with MDT ESS chassis.
Ase Utra SL5i supressor.
4-low shot´s are 4x5 and one in the up and middle, is after the 4x5 one full magazine.
Time for all this went about 20-25 minutes, so that the barrel was warm, or even hot.
But how about 4x5 shots and one 10-shot group
.This is over a year ago, but still counts.
Tikka T3X CTR 260rem.
Shot with MDT ESS chassis.
Ase Utra SL5i supressor.
4-low shot´s are 4x5 and one in the up and middle, is after the 4x5 one full magazine.
Time for all this went about 20-25 minutes, so that the barrel was warm, or even hot.
Yep, 100-meters.
That last was totally my mistake, eye kind of got tired for the intensive work in short period.
The stock, mag and bottom metal weigh about 2.5 pounds. So subtract that from the specified total. The barrel is similar to a medium palma contour, 0.8" at the muzzle.
-Stooxie
The barrel is closer to a lite palma. I have a 23.5" medium palma Bartlein and a 20" factory barrel. I will weigh them both the next time I swap them. I put the 20" on to save some weight for deer season.
I guess it's in between then, since a light Palma is .750 at the muzzle and a medium is 0.82. The CTR is 0.8 at the muzzle (technically, 20mm). Might also depend on the length, the 24" one might be closer to .750 if it continues to taper. I have a 20".
-Stooxie
-Stooxie
Hey Everyone, Just pick up my Tikka T3X CTR 6.5 Creedmoor and need some help I bought a 20 MOA rail to install on this rifle and I was able to remove a 6 screw's holding the rail down but the rail is on tight. I've been soaking around the rail with Kano Kroil Penetrationg oil for about 6 hours and no movement. Any suggestion would greatly appreciated.
It's epoxied on (how much is variable). A hair drier or heat gun will soften the epoxy enough to allow prying it off the receiver (just use a non-marring tool, like a piece of wood or nylon rod).
I have not done it, but google is your friend here. I have seen many posts on here and net about Tikka rail having glue or basically red loctite on it. Most people use lots of heat and a rubber mallet to remove. Read one where the guy used an iron to heat up the rail.
dayum, someone is real popular with the ladies!
What I did is to remove all the screws except the mirage band screw (the one at the front of the rail), then actually tighten that one. It’s not threaded into the receiver like the others, so it will help pry the front of the rail against the action. That should get you started, then you can grab on and pull the rest of the way.
Be warned, though, that this could bend your factory rail, so if you plan to sell it or use it on another rifle, you may want to go with the heat method above.
Then, you just use some elbow grease to remove the remaining glue.
LOL! I used to be when I was young and full of piss and vinegar.
Now I'm just old and full of sawdust and shit
There are two pins as well in the rail when heated will the rail need to be lifted straight up or are the pins attached to the rail?
The pins are loose fitted and will come out separately.
You won't be reusing them cause no one but tikka that I'm aware of uses those pins.
You can get a thin type spatula and tap it in on one of the corners of the rail while lifting and applying heat and work it loose.
I used a micro butane torch on mine and it worked great.
Spent 5 minutes getting the rail off and over an hour cleaning that damn epoxy off.....
There has been success with a clothes iron before. Might get better distributed heat just on the rail than a heatgun
I just did this last week. Like the others said, it is a pain to remove. I used a clothes iron and set it on top of the rail to heat it up. Don't leave it on too long and wear thick gloves because it will be hot. The ends will start to pull upward easily. After that it will take some heating and pulling upward to remove the rail. Just take your time. The real pain is cleaning up the remaining adhesive from the rail. A plastic scraper and acetone are your best friend here.
Ask and you shall receive. Still haven't gotten it out to the range yet in the new chassis.
Thanks, I was able to remove the rail with the clothing iron.
Attachments
Can anyone suggest a chassis for my Tikka T3X CTR 6.5 CREEDMOOR that won't break the bank. I have a Bravo chassis on my tikka 308 that I use for hunting. The 6.5 will be most competition and target.
I believe the KRG Xray can be had for less than $600. All that's needed further is AI mags. Not sure what you consider "breaking the bank"
Anyone else having issues with the KRG Bravo in the T3. On mine, it seems the magwell is really tight. MDT plastic mags insert and extract fairly well but the Accurate mags are difficult. Is this normal?
I have installed the chassis as instructed.
I have installed the chassis as instructed.
I have a Tikka in krg bravo using there Aics mags and all works great no issues.
