I use a couple of business cards and some rosin on my PMA vise. Not sure if it would hold up to removing a factory barrel, but it works for swapping from a BugNut barrel to a new factory barrel and back. I have a new 270 that I bought for the action. I am hoping my smith can get it off without cutting it. I would like to try a mauser outside action wrench with the cap flipped on it, just don't want to buy one for a trial.
-
Having trouble using the site?
Contact support
I use a couple of business cards and some rosin on my PMA vise. Not sure if it would hold up to removing a factory barrel, but it works for swapping from a BugNut barrel to a new factory barrel and back. I have a new 270 that I bought for the action. I am hoping my smith can get it off without cutting it. I would like to try a mauser outside action wrench with the cap flipped on it, just don't want to buy one for a trial.
BeautifulNeed to order T3 308win bolt stop from Sako.
Even in the TAC A1 223rem rifle, it has bolt stop that allows bolt coming all the way back, that´s not cool.
But this picture is what i took yesterday, or what do ya guys think
View attachment 7007801
Hoping to get some snowy range time in the next week or two when my T3x comes in.
A friend did, apparently nothing really new. They are pushing a new online configurator tool that will roll out (Sako focused, most likely), and a full 1/3rd of Tikka production right now is focused on the T1x (according to the rep).
I am interested if anyone can comment on a suspected "slam" fire. I have the factory Tikka trigger down as far as it can be adjusted and no Dave spring. I have convinced myself that while quickly cycling the bolt for a second shot on an elk the gun fired without a trigger pull. Firing out of battery is not unheard of in bolt guns and, if this is in fact what happened, any hesitation on even less trigger weight? I would welcome input on anyone's experience correlating trigger weight and "slam firing" with Tikka.
Have you given the buttstock a few smacks to see if the rifle will drop the firing pin with the trigger adjusted that low?
I actually have one of each. Both are nice. I prefer (by far...) the factory mags for .223. The machining on the Mountain Tactical is a little more refined than the Atlasworx.
Has anyone tried to replace the magazine spring in the CTR mags with something else, something stronger? I have three that are all quite weak and consistently fail to feed the last two rounds unless I lift the magazine up in the magwell by hand.
Soaked my barrel thread in Kroil and PB Blaster for 4 days prior and used rosin on the barrel vise and it popped free. I used an external action wrench though. It didn't put up a fight at all.
That is good to know! I dont dislike the factory mag really, just not a fan of a plastic bottom metal.
I like the fact that I can opt to try a long action mag for my 308 if I feel like reloading it long
Love my mountain tactical bottom metal. For the price I feel its a worth while upgrade. While you’re at it m, look at their bolt release too. Way cheaper than buying the OEM Tikka and looks much better/stronger.
Beautiful
Hoping to get some snowy range time in the next week or two when my T3x comes in.
Thank you Skudshark
We have snow
About to order a grayboe terrain with their dbm for an old t3 lite in .300wsm. Has anyone tried that combo yet?
I have mountain tactical on my Varmint and am using the MDT 223 mags. I need to add to the mag catch on the mags with some JB weld so they will fit tighter, or see if mountain tactical has a longer release lever that I can file down until it fits.
I'm looking at having my T3 Lite cerakoted and barrel threaded. What shop should I send my rifle to for this work?
Long Rifles Inc. They have expertise in Tikkas and they do fantastic work.
-Stooxie
I have a tikka t3x tac a1in 6.5. I’m running the factory brake but thinking of upgrading. I’ve been going through this thread but it’s very long and the search hasn’t really turned anything up for me. I’m just looking to see what everybody else is running. I’ve seen the area 419 and the little bastard just seeing what else is out there. I’ve also seen 18-1 threads and 5/8x24, what one is right?
I want to mount a 56mm objective lens scope on a Tikka T3 with a varmint barrel, with the EGW 20 MOA rail and Vortex PMR 34mm rings. Can anyone tell me which height of the Vortex PMR rings I need? They are available in 0.92", 1.00", 1.10", 1.26", and 1.45". Thanks.
I have Insite Arms Heathen muzzle brakes on several guns, work great. The "blast" is directed sideways and not angled back at the shooter
I just put an Ares ETR on my CTR with a medium Palma. I think I used 1.00" Badger rings. I have plenty of room for scope covers. I will try and get pictures this evening.
It’s an 8 twist I think, love it so far.
My main match rifle is a Tikka as well but in 6.5.
Justin at Prometheus arms does great work and has built me 4 rifles the past year and his work is as good as the popular names year hear a lot on here
I like the Thunderbeast 30CB with an Ultra7 mounted.
Attachments
I just installed some Seekins PMR .92" height with a Vortex Gen II 4.5-27x56 with Leupold 20moa rail and have about .18" gap between the scope and barrel.
Anybody have a 24” Stainless CTR 6.5 Creedmoor? What velocities are you guys getting with 130gr Berger’s?
I don’t shoot Berger’s, but I am getting just under 2700 with my SS barrel CTR using 142 Sierras. Very accurate for me up to 300 yards. I’m hoping to get out further soon.
I have a 24” stainless CTR. I got around 2710 with the Federal Gold Medal Berger 130gr.
Prime 130gr, on the other hand, ran at 2900.
