Actually I’m now leaning toward the ARC M10 QD-L. What height is your scope mount?
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Actually I’m now leaning toward the ARC M10 QD-L. What height is your scope mount?
I have 2 of the ARC M10 QD-L, one of which on my Tikka Tac A1. I really like these mounts.
On my Tac A1, I am running the “High” model (1.57” I think) with a 34mm tube Athlon Ares ETR and 20 MOA incline. With defender flip caps, it just fits to clear the handguard/rail.
Tikka Action
Proof Competition Contour chambered for 6Creedmoor
J Allen Chassis
Timney 2 Stage
Vortex Razor Gen2
Sphur Mount
Sterk Swept Handle and Gen2 Shroud
Barnes 112Gr Match Burner w/ Barnes Brass
Evo Bipod
Sawtooth Rifle rails with MDT weights
Little Bastard Muzzle Break
Rocky Mountain Mayhem Sponsored by Vortex Optics National Match put on here in Utah. Alot of great shooters and a blast to shoot.
Proof Competition Contour chambered for 6Creedmoor
J Allen Chassis
Timney 2 Stage
Vortex Razor Gen2
Sphur Mount
Sterk Swept Handle and Gen2 Shroud
Barnes 112Gr Match Burner w/ Barnes Brass
Evo Bipod
Sawtooth Rifle rails with MDT weights
Little Bastard Muzzle Break
Rocky Mountain Mayhem Sponsored by Vortex Optics National Match put on here in Utah. Alot of great shooters and a blast to shoot.
My Varmint likes the 75gr ELDM with H4895. I am thinking 1-7 for my next barrel so I can try the 80 and 88 ELDMs. I would be interested in seeing how the 7.5 handles the 80 gr bullets.
So Beretta tells me they do not sell the rail separately. All they can offer is for me to send the rifle in for "repair" adn they will install a new rail. The reason they gave that they wont sell it is that it is glued on. I've asked them the cost of this but I imagine it will be outrageous. Looks like I'm going to have to get an EGW 20 MOA rail, wait and see if Mountain releases a rail for the Tac A1, or find someone willing to sell me their rail. Probably will be the EGW since its available now, unless someone has one they want to sell to me.
I have to disagree. This is just the phenomenon of the half-ass American company (and I love America). Same reason we buy Tikkas, right? Why is it that the Fins can do what the American makes of production rifles can't seem to do?
Reason number 1 I've been sticking to GRS stocks. It's bullshit to be waiting year for product. Either these places should be able to keep up with market demand or they should stop selling.
-Stooxie
I just picked mine up from having my factory barrel removed yesterday.
I tried a few things and very quickly discovered I wasn't going to get the factory tube off without damaging it, so I decided screw it, I'd try destructive removal techniques, and cut it off and ground wrench flats a couple inches from the receiver.
I ended up trying plastic jaws in my vise with no heat, which accomplished nothing but marking up the hard plastic jaws and starting to torque the action within the jaws. Then I tried leather and a heat gun... nope, same. Left the heat gun on it for like 30 minutes, still nope. Finally decided to take it to my old shop, clamped the receiver in some aluminum angle stock I had, and heated the receiver some with an oxy/acytlene torch, then put a 2' chain wrench on the barrel. Didn't do squat, but marred up the aluminum. I went nuts on the stub of barrel with the torch, knowing it's kinda backwards but what the hell, that wasn't it either.
Ended up at a very good machine shop/gunsmith that's luckily 20 minutes from me. He was all set to cut all but a ribbon of thread out after my description. I suggested he try something I read on another site about Tikka barrels- undercut the shoulder as close to the receiver as possible to <1". He told me yesterday he put a wrench on the flats I ground and gave it a decent hammer whack and it popped free.
I can only assume they must set them up with the receiver hot and barrel cold, and let the shoulder and threads tighten as they normalize.
I dont even mind waiting if I can get exactly what I want. I get that sometimes products need to be redesigned and that manufacturing has hiccups. But taking my money and going silent has lost manners a customer in me. The stock I got is great and I will get a lot of use out of it. But I had planned 2 other purchases that will now got to another company.
So I have a question for you guys. Are there things about the tikka action plus trigger combo that you like better than, say, an origin plus trigger tech combo? I'm trying to figure out whether I should build with a Tikka or step up to one of the semi-custom actions. The cost difference is there but not an enormous stretch.
Really depends on what you want i guess. The 70 degree lift and the array of bolt handle configs you can have with a Tikka is nice. The bolt lift on the Tikka is noticeably stiffer than anything i have other than my 3-lug Sako 85. They don't make the Tempest in a 223 bolt face so i've been wanting a 223 to mimic my competition gun for sometime. And admittedly even if they sold the Tempest in that bolt face, it'd be hard to drop nearly $1400 on the action of a 223 trainer. The Origin is the smoothest Bighorn i've used. We had three Bighorns; a TL3, SR3, and Origin. I wasn't wild about my TL3, sold it and moved to an Impact. I like my Dad's SR3 as well but my Brother's origin is very smooth. Bolt lift on the Bighorns is also very very nice and not in anyway stiff like the Tikka. I'd argue the Tikka is smoother but they're just different feeling actions. If you're fine with a 2-lug 90-degree throw, i like the Origin quite a bit.
Yup, I found when removing barrels, they need a couple hard whacks with a dead blow to apply that instant impact torque versus a slower application of increasing torque.
Normally if you order from outside of Europe Zone you would not be charged the 20% German VAT.
What I remembered. Talking about it on page 72. $196.70+20% vat =236. 04+ shipping.
edi
The only downside I see to Tikka is trigger selection. Timney nailed it with their 2 stage, however. I am crossing my fingers that trigger tech starts to produce Tikka triggers, or tubbs. Everyone time I play with my friends Impact and Lone Peak actions with tubbs and trigger tech, I get envious! As for actions, I'd go with Lone Peak (because they are local to me here in Utah) or Impact before I went with a big Horn. Just my preference.
Agreed....my Bergara B17 6 mm creed comes with a TT installed (used to be Timney), and it’s like 2 lbs. according to the Lyman. I adjusted my Tac A1 Trigger down all the way and it’s under 2 lbs. and breaks pretty crisp.
I also have two timney triggers, and like them over the stock. I am a fan of two stage vs single. The new T3x vs T3 with a yo dave or mountain tactical trigger spring also makes a better trigger over stock in my opinion.
How does the yo dave spring compare exactly ? Does it shorten take up ok the first stage? How easy is the installation?
Installation is a piece of cake. Remove two screws, old spring falls out, replace with new one, replace two screws.
It lightens the pull weight nicely on a T3/T3x single stage factory trigger.
Doesn’t apply to the Tac A1 two stage trigger.
KRG Midas is also an option and sounds to be pretty dang good. Could also get a Sako TRG trigger, but $$$. It's too bad TT doesnt make a trigger for Tikkas though
Sorry, when i talked about the mountain tactical or yo dave spring that was for the stock trigger not the timney. Thanks for the help awpk03s!!
Anyone had the chamfer taken off their receiver face and/or machined off the receiver side of a Bugholes magnum nut to match, that knows how much one would take off either/both or the resulting OD? (Yeah, I know it's not exactly an OD being it's a hexagon.)
I need to take out >0.150" up to 0.250" from my receiver-barrel nut-barrel shoulder interfaces to fix a minor oops. I'm planning to get the receiver Cerakoted anyway to cover up some marks I put on it trying to wrench my barrel off, so I'm kinda inclined to get the chamfer taken off the receiver and shave the nut down to work.
Only catch is my MT rail is contoured to the curved part that would be chopped, so before i ring the bell that can't be unrung, I'd like to know what's coming off of where and hopefully convince myself I wouldn't need to have the front of the rail machined too to clear the barrel nut, and then have it coated too. ?
I need to take out >0.150" up to 0.250" from my receiver-barrel nut-barrel shoulder interfaces to fix a minor oops. I'm planning to get the receiver Cerakoted anyway to cover up some marks I put on it trying to wrench my barrel off, so I'm kinda inclined to get the chamfer taken off the receiver and shave the nut down to work.
Only catch is my MT rail is contoured to the curved part that would be chopped, so before i ring the bell that can't be unrung, I'd like to know what's coming off of where and hopefully convince myself I wouldn't need to have the front of the rail machined too to clear the barrel nut, and then have it coated too. ?
Are you going magnum caliber with the Bugnut? I have his original size on a 6.5 Creed and it works pretty good on a medium palma. His new Tikka nut is smaller and blends better. You have to use a small shank savage barrel for it though.
Attachments
Nope, 6.5CM, basically same as yours- it's a medium Palma with the chamber area taken down to 1.20" to fit under the magnum Bugnut.
Simplest solution would just be to have the "shoulder" pushed forward enough to headspace, which doesn't even need to be super true since nothing's riding on it and the Bugnut "shroud" will hide it. But since I'm wanting to get the receiver coated anyway, and I need to shorten somewhere in there anyway, why not get the receiver milled to a flat face, and take some of the receiver side of the Bugnut off to increase the OD? That also avoids the theoretical downside to Option 1, which is that I'd be adding another ~0.15" of no threads where the nut will be riding, on top of the small amount present already between the end of the shank threads and the "shoulder".
223 trainer is ago! Seriously need grayboe to come on..
Been meaning to get the wolf brass for some time haha i couldn't help myself with the ELD-Ms hoping they shoot, which i'm assuming they will and i'll be able to find a load for them. If i had the money there is a PRS1TK flat top at Manners it would be here in a month, though i'd probably ask them if i could make it a PRS2. Also just sold my EH1 to fund a PRS2 for my Impact 737R so that puts more hindrance on the stock selection for the Tikka. Though Grayboe keeps telling us it's coming so i'm really leaning toward a Renegade, despite not wanting the butthook, for $350 i'll put up with it. Ready to get the Sterk Bolt knob and shroud in too. Tikka bolt lift with that little handle is a tad stiff.
Been thinking of rebarreling my Tac A1 from 308 to 6.5 Creed. Just don’t find myself shooting much 308 anymore. Thoughts on who’d be most economical, but still do a nice job? Thanks.
I would shoot the barrel out, before I swap it, but that´s just me.
Most economical would be a prefit from PVA or Solid Accuracy (Criterion). Economics aside, I’ve heard barrels from both camps are great shooters.
Not sure if you can fit a barrel nut setup under the handguard? If not, I did see PVA is doing shouldered prefits now.
Undoubtedly good advice. I just like tinkering with stuff.I would shoot the barrel out, before I swap it, but that´s just me.
Ok about to order my scope mount. Down to choosing between the ARC M10 QD-L in 1.38” height or 1.57” height. Or ARC M10 X High Rings 1.42” Scope is a Weaver Tactical 3-15x50 with sunshade. EGW 20 MOA rail. Scope objective measures 60mm on the OD. Might run caps so need to be able to clear for them. Will I clear with the 1.38” or will I need to go taller? Will the 1.42” clear? I want to go as low as possible. I’ve done the calculators but I just want some confirmation before I order the mount. Also, as much as I want a one piece, if I go with the rings, I can still afford to order a KRG Midas trigger, so that would be nice too.
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They have to build up and repaint/touch the area around the tang and it’s a slight up charge
Gonna go ahead and warn you if you're ordering from PVA you best expect a 6 month to a year wait at minimum. Been waiting on a barrel for my Impact since November..
Well, in the waiting time you can shoot some more....
Don´t get me wrong, I just think that Tikka´s barrels are not bad at all.
It will be hard to find a barrel with more precision, so enjoy the 308 until the 6.5 may come.
Or send the barrel to me.
Don´t get me wrong, I just think that Tikka´s barrels are not bad at all.
It will be hard to find a barrel with more precision, so enjoy the 308 until the 6.5 may come.
Or send the barrel to me.
Very, very good to know. I am probably going to take the advice that someone mentioned previously and shoot out the 308. That should only take the rest of my life, but my son can have it!
You do realize 308's last for 8000- 10,000 rounds right?I would shoot the barrel out, before I swap it, but that´s just me.
They’re unquestionably fantastic rifles. I own a couple of Sakos as well. Probably my fav action, and the same fantastic Barrels.Well, in the waiting time you can shoot some more....
Don´t get me wrong, I just think that Tikka´s barrels are not bad at all.
It will be hard to find a barrel with more precision, so enjoy the 308 until the 6.5 may come.
Or send the barrel to me.
