Any of you all with custom tikkas getting bored with them and want to sell? I am in the market
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With the cheekpeice off is the inside foam exposed? If not I will pull mine off and put on one of my stock packs. With the cheek peice installed plus the stock pack, the stock is entirely too wide and i have to dang near lay my head sideways.
My bipod and scope caps finally came today. I also took off the cheek piece and the foam inside the stock and filled it with 6 lbs of lead. The current cheek rest is temporary, until my adjustable kydex one arrives. It weighs about 16 lbs right now.
There's only a small hole drilled through the top of the stock and that's the only place where the foam is exposed. It's only like 2-3mm wide or so. Your stock pack will probably just cover it and you should be good.
As Stooxie said above, there's a small plastic plug covering the screw on the cheek piece. I used an xacto knife to get the plug off, took out the screw, and pulled the cheek piece off.
I could not hold my self, so the X-ray is now also in the camo outfit.
There is also some step by step photos, how i do that sponge camo paint.
No turning back
A great looking rifles! Looking at your other photos on the net, can you please tell if device at the top of the barrel is a muzzle break or silencer and if you have a link to manufacturer or a name of the model. Thanks...
Let's talk about these little cans; what are they?
Anybody know of a varmint weight barreled Tikka T3x in .204? Sold in the USA? I see them for sale in Canada, but importation is $$$. Tikka's site is rather sub-par at filtering by caliber…on the main site I get one set of results, but in the "Tikka Selector" I get a different set of results. ANYWAY the Tikka Selector gives me a super-cool option JRTXF322 https://choose.tikka.fi/usa/code/JRTXF322, which is a stainless varmint in 204, but google gives me a big fat zero results for "JRTXF322". Hmmmm.
Makeshift cheek rest as I was trying to at least shoot the rifle while waiting on the KRG Bravo to come in. Right now I'm shooting my Tikka T1X actually a lot better, which is in a Bravo. I duct taped a towel around the stock to raise my cheek up which now is the perfect height.
I also took shots w/o my new Area 419 brake since there were people at the range, and when they left I put it on the first time. Having a quick detach brake is pretty darn nice. Huge difference with the brake on as I was able to stay on target and have quicker followup shots.
I do tend to shoot right a lot... even with dialing the scope left, it wasn't moving as much as it should. Now it could be the scope having tracking issues... or me. Most likely me. The dialing up & down worked as expected, 0.72 inches per 0.1 mil. I did notice that with me jogging back and forth 200 yards each way, my heartbeat was causing the rifle to move left & right, maybe that accounts for the left & right variation, vs the up & down being pretty good.
I'm looking forward to getting better! Watching / reading the snipers hide training will be really helpful.
I also took shots w/o my new Area 419 brake since there were people at the range, and when they left I put it on the first time. Having a quick detach brake is pretty darn nice. Huge difference with the brake on as I was able to stay on target and have quicker followup shots.
I do tend to shoot right a lot... even with dialing the scope left, it wasn't moving as much as it should. Now it could be the scope having tracking issues... or me. Most likely me. The dialing up & down worked as expected, 0.72 inches per 0.1 mil. I did notice that with me jogging back and forth 200 yards each way, my heartbeat was causing the rifle to move left & right, maybe that accounts for the left & right variation, vs the up & down being pretty good.
I'm looking forward to getting better! Watching / reading the snipers hide training will be really helpful.
He posted a few post up that they are
Ase Utra SL5i suppressor made in Finland
O
old_dood
Guest
My first post here. I too just bought a CTR in 6.5CM and picked it up yesterday. I bought 200 120g SMK and loaded 25 to sight-in/break-in. I didn't even measure the loads. I merely adjusted my powder drop to a moderate Varget load and dropped right into the case. I'm assuming there was a -.2 to +.2 or greater variation. My thinking was that "I'm going to spend most of the time cleaning after sight in" Long story short, after cleaning the night before to the point of no copper indication, the barrel appeared to have already been broken in sufficiently. After the first shot at the range, no copper. Shot 4 next....no copper.
unmarked group is sight in and just getting used to it. Group 1 is 100 yds. Group 2, 200 yd, group 3 200 yd after adding muzzle brake. Trigger was very heavy, I'd say 4-5 lb.
After I got home I installed the Yodave spring in the trigger. When I looked at the instructions for doing so on Youtube I noticed that a leaf spring was under the trigger screw (on the video that is). On my rifle, there was no such spring. I also didn't get an accessory vertical handgrip.
Out of 25 rounds fired I had about 3 instances of the round not being fed from the mag resulting in a dry fire. Could that be due to missing leaf spring?
I'm lovin' me some Tikka.
unmarked group is sight in and just getting used to it. Group 1 is 100 yds. Group 2, 200 yd, group 3 200 yd after adding muzzle brake. Trigger was very heavy, I'd say 4-5 lb.
After I got home I installed the Yodave spring in the trigger. When I looked at the instructions for doing so on Youtube I noticed that a leaf spring was under the trigger screw (on the video that is). On my rifle, there was no such spring. I also didn't get an accessory vertical handgrip.
Out of 25 rounds fired I had about 3 instances of the round not being fed from the mag resulting in a dry fire. Could that be due to missing leaf spring?
I'm lovin' me some Tikka.
S Series SL5i sound suppressor | Ase Utra
www.aseutra.fi
Those smaller than Coka Cola cans are suppressor from Ase Utra
.Ase Utra Sound Suppressors | Ase Utra
www.aseutra.fi
You need to ad a T1x to the mix
I would love one of those, or two
22LR and 17HMR
.First mod´s for TAC.
Sterk swept bolt handle, borrowed my son rig, i need to order these from John to this too, my son wont me to have this permanently on this rig
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Well good news, looks like my Sterk bolt knob and shroud is on the way,
Curious how much do muzzle brakes change your guys POI? I removed the Area 419 brake, and I shoot 0.5 mil low @ 200 yards and 0.1 mil left.
These are very nice suppressor.
Can does not need to be long and thick, small is beautiful
These do lower the noice too, + 22db, eats recoil and last very long, i have heard that in Sweden some shooting center they have shoot over 45 000 shots with SL5i suppressor, so these are very durable too.
From the winter.
308win and after that 223rem.
Ase Utra SL5i suppressor in both rigs.
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old_dood
Guest
Just got off the phone with support. They're sending me the vertical pistol grip. They said it should be included with the CTR. As for the missing leaf spring under the trigger mounting screw, was told it's not necessary on the CTR. I searched for info on misfeeds and found solution that tightens up magazine. We'll see.
Good to hear you're getting everything figured out. I know with mine, if I don't bring the bolt all the way to the rear [laziness] then it can skip a round and "click" on an empty chamber. Others have done the same on my rifle. I've found that if I run it like I mean it or intentionally make sure I manipulate the bolt fully, it does great. Love my Tikka though.
Now go shoot the crap out of your CTR and come back with something erudite for us. ;-)
Friendly competition with my son, which one is more accurate, 260rem or 6.5creedmoor Tikka rifle
Finally got the rifle into a KRG Bravo! Ordered it yesterday morning, they shipped and it arrived today! Originally a Tikka T3X CTR. Oh the T3X Limb Saver also fits perfectly with the Bravo. I had to use some spacers to equal out the length of screw, but it's perfectly fitting which is great. I don't really need the limb saver anymore now that I put the Area 419 brake on though.
Trigger spring still stock while waiting for the Elay Precision spring to show up. The lowest I can get the weight down to is 2lb 6oz, that's when the spring hits the action screw.
First top left shot was cold bore. Then 4 shots grouped okay. Top right had a great group. Middle I pulled the last shot
@ 200 yards. I don't blame the rifle at all, or the ammo really. I just need to be a better shooter... It started getting breezy starting and stopping in between shots, so maybe that would affect a little, but most likely me. Looking at the charts a 5mph wind would be about 1-1.5" shift.
Trigger spring still stock while waiting for the Elay Precision spring to show up. The lowest I can get the weight down to is 2lb 6oz, that's when the spring hits the action screw.
First top left shot was cold bore. Then 4 shots grouped okay. Top right had a great group. Middle I pulled the last shot
@ 200 yards. I don't blame the rifle at all, or the ammo really. I just need to be a better shooter... It started getting breezy starting and stopping in between shots, so maybe that would affect a little, but most likely me. Looking at the charts a 5mph wind would be about 1-1.5" shift.
Anyone currently running the Timney T3 2-stage. I can't get my current trigger < 2.5 lbs even with different springs, so I'm going to have to call Beretta on Monday and they will take care of it. That might mean 2-3 weeks before I get it back.
So while waiting... I could just go for something different, and a Timney 2-stage for $200 could be pretty good. The T3 single stage trigger is really nice & crisp, so I wouldn't want to replace it w/ another single stage, so if I'm going to spend some $, might as well go for a 2-stage.
I saw someone recently sell their 2-stage so maybe they just didn't like it. Looking to get some feedback on what people are thinking?
So while waiting... I could just go for something different, and a Timney 2-stage for $200 could be pretty good. The T3 single stage trigger is really nice & crisp, so I wouldn't want to replace it w/ another single stage, so if I'm going to spend some $, might as well go for a 2-stage.
I saw someone recently sell their 2-stage so maybe they just didn't like it. Looking to get some feedback on what people are thinking?
Have you take out the sping and the pin of the trigger?
If you have put them back that pin wrong way, it might cause trouble.
Never heard that you could not get factory Tikka trigger under 2lbs with the factory sping, because i have had it 1,7 lbs.
Yodaves sping it goes in to a 1lbs.
I have Timney, KRG, and Tikka 2-stage triggers.
What you want to know of these?
If you have put them back that pin wrong way, it might cause trouble.
Never heard that you could not get factory Tikka trigger under 2lbs with the factory sping, because i have had it 1,7 lbs.
Yodaves sping it goes in to a 1lbs.
I have Timney, KRG, and Tikka 2-stage triggers.
What you want to know of these?
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If you shop around you might find some sales on the 4th.....
I bought 2 of the Timney's and put my factory triggers in a box and never looked back.....
The only thing I did with the trigger is remove the adjustment screw and swap the spring for a lighter spring. Lighter spring / stock spring really did nothing. Both would only go down to 2.5lb before it would fail to be reliable and stay cocked.
I have another Tikka, and just to verify put the spring in there and I have that one at 1lb. So something's up with this trigger. I even swapped triggers around to my other Tikka rifle, and same behavior. Maybe it was off from the factory.
I made sure the spring / pin are pointed correctly, long way in. Reverified/swapped multiple times and double/triple checked.
Any other ideas? I'm calling Beretta on Monday, but I don't want to wait 3 weeks for turnaround, so I'm thinking I'll just get a Timney 2-stage for $200...
Any idea of sample sites? I see it retail for around $224.99 and I have some 5/10% coupons at various places, then hit/miss with shipping/tax.
Lowest I've seen it is $175 on Ebay... but Tax/Shipping put me at $205.
Man I didn't realize how much those things were going for now
I bought my 1st one over a year ago from Grab-A-Gun on sale for $159 shipped and my 2nd on black Friday last year from OpPlanet and got it for $121 shipped.
I'll keep my eyes open for any sales this week and post back....
Calling you Tikka experts?!!!
I have a spare older T3 barreled action laying around and ordered a barrel to make myself a second prs match rifle. I went to adjust the factory trigger down like I did on my t3x CTR and bottomed out the trigger set screw against the trigger to action mounting screw and now it's dropping the firing pin if I slam the bolt home hard. Tested my CTR with the exact same setting and its 100% and won't slam fire no matter how hard I slam the bolt. Any advise? Barreled action is a 243 from 2011 or so. Never been modified or touched until today.
I have a spare older T3 barreled action laying around and ordered a barrel to make myself a second prs match rifle. I went to adjust the factory trigger down like I did on my t3x CTR and bottomed out the trigger set screw against the trigger to action mounting screw and now it's dropping the firing pin if I slam the bolt home hard. Tested my CTR with the exact same setting and its 100% and won't slam fire no matter how hard I slam the bolt. Any advise? Barreled action is a 243 from 2011 or so. Never been modified or touched until today.
When you say tested your CTR with the exact same setting, do you mean you swapped the triggers, or you just meant you bottomed out the set screw?
I've found a few posts where there were some defective Tikka triggers that wouldn't adjust < 2.5 lbs, and working the set screw wouldn't do much. I had to move my set screw in a bit to stop it from dropping the firing pin, but it's still at around 2.5-2.6 lbs. A few people I talked to had to call Beretta to get them to warranty it. I'll be doing that on Monday.
Brentwinkey,
You have the adjustment screw out too far taking preload off the stock spring. Minor manufacturing tolerances would explain why one is ok, the other not. I've seen this problem many times. Put a lighter gauge spring in, i use wolff mini coil spring pack from Brownells, find a suitable spring and cut it a little longer than factory spring. I've got 7 tikka triggers all with this mod and 1lb triggers. Nil issues.
You have the adjustment screw out too far taking preload off the stock spring. Minor manufacturing tolerances would explain why one is ok, the other not. I've seen this problem many times. Put a lighter gauge spring in, i use wolff mini coil spring pack from Brownells, find a suitable spring and cut it a little longer than factory spring. I've got 7 tikka triggers all with this mod and 1lb triggers. Nil issues.
Bottomed the screw out the same as my CTR. Yeah I've actually had to move quite a bit in from where it was originally to get it to almost stop but it's still doing it. I think I'll be calling Beretta this week as well!
I was actually considering putting either the yo Dave or similar spring kit in since I do like about a 1-1.5 lb trigger for prs type shooting. I think I might call Beretta just to ask if there's an issue with it or whatever.
This is why we can’t have nice things, don’t file a complaint, don’t call your lawyer. The Tikka trigger is an excellent piece of kit but it is mass produced and subject to machine tolerances as Dino said. At spec they are supposed to be adjustable to 1kg, I've owned a lot of them and some are a little below and some are a little above. Exercise judgment and don’t apply force backing out the screw past the limit of contact with the housing. If you have slamfires that would qualify as an indication you went too far.
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In my situation, I put in the lighter spring, and it still wouldn't adjust below the 2.5 lbs. I found a few other people who had the similar situation and called Beretta and got back a new trigger unit.
Also recently had a fairly new 243 Lite in that just didn't go down. I had an old trigger unit hanging on the wall for fitting work which was much lower in pull weight. So now I have a brand new trigger on the wall for fitting work. They do seem to differ quite a bit. As factory triggers go Tikka units are are very good.
edi
edi
I'm not jumping to conclusions just more confused then anything...I have several tikkas I think they have the best factory triggers by far. Just seems odd that it would slam fire on the same setting as my other guns. I understand various manufacturing tolerance and what not. I far from forcing anything the adjustment screw just contacted the trigger group to action screw just like my other rifles and that's where I tested and got a almost 100% failure rate on it slam firing.
So something isn't quite right with that one. Have you taken the trigger off and put it back? I'm just wondering if it is installed quite right. Either before you got it, or by you.
I'm sorry I haven't read this whole thread but if you changed the spring and accidentally reversed the plunger it will not work right. The short end fits into the spring. I made this mistake myself because the plunger fell out and rolled around on the table when dumped the spring out. I couldn't tell how it was originally installed and put it in backwards.
I called Beretta this morning, after a few minutes waiting on hold I got a technician, and told him that I couldn't adjust the trigger < 2.5 lbs. He said okay sending you out a return label to ship the Entire Rifle back to us. I asked if I could just ship the trigger unit, and they said nope, since they test the rifle at their facilities, the entire rifle to make sure everything is okay.
So good news is they deal with it. Bad news is not having my rifle for 2 weeks is a big bummer. I have a Timney 2-stage I wanted to test with it...
Also they recommended I send back the rifle in the original CTR stock and not in the chassis I had it in. I'm not sure if it's worth the trouble...
I bought it new and never had it apart tell the other day...I still need to check if it was messed up from the factory . It was a hunting rifle and I left the trigger alone since it was a good weight for hunting. I only started playing with it because it's gonna be my new action for my match gun.
What you can do is just swap the trigger to your hunting rifle (assuming you have multiple Tikkas), and take the trigger from that one for your match gun. That's what I've done... I swapped the trigger that would go down to 1lb to my match gun, and left the 2.5 lber for a hunting use. I don't think I'll go through with sending the gun to Beretta, just not worth all the effort and 2 week turn around.. and disassembling everything back to the CTR. Maybe once I get a 3rd rifle I will send this one in...
Speaking of which, anyone run a Tikka in a .223? I have a .223 suppressor that I've never used since I hate running it on the AR (too much blowback, dirties the crap out of the action), and want to use it for something. I think a .223 bolt would be perfect for the suppressor...
I've got a Tikka Varmint in .223 (had the muzzle threaded), and run a Varminter 3.0 on it last summer. Accuracy was great, and suppressor made for a lot of dead PD's, since they had no clue the hate was coming.
