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I keep telling myself this is the LAST TIKKA BUILD .... 
Duplicated my personal rig for a good friend... So this is a clone
Have any of you used a barrel nut system on a T3/T3X? I'm considering throwing together a Tikka build last minute for elk hunting in October with a Proof Tikka Pre-fit but I'm not sure if those are shouldered barrels that require an action wrench or if there is a barrel nut system compatible with them.
The West Texas Ordnance system looks cool but the action and barrel both need to modified it looks like.
The West Texas Ordnance system looks cool but the action and barrel both need to modified it looks like.
I would like to know also. About to look for a barrel/nut system for my T3X myself.
I am looking to build a proof Tikka as well. I just am worried about the OAL in a 300 win mag build. I am worried on the magazine lenght, because I would like to shoot the 220-212 grain bullets
There is always room for one
I recently tried some 300WM Berger ammo loaded with the 215 Bergers and it not fit in my buddy’s Tikka mag.
I'm guessing they are but what does that mean as far as barrel nuts, or similar systems?
so I emailed proof with the same question and their prefits are shouldered so there is no barrel nut needed from what I understood. It’s just remove the old barrel and screw in the new one (and torque) and you’re good to go
Exactly!
There is no recoil lug to worry about. The smith that spun on my Proof barrel said almost every tikka action he has seen doesn’t need to be touched ( trued up )
I have a Curtis Vector and a few Tikka actions. For what you get from Tikka, it is very hard to spend $6-800 more for a custom, esp now with prefit options.
-Well machined action tolerances.
-great (as is) factory trigger.
-smooth out of the box and feels like a custom after 500ish rounds/dryfire.
-Solid aftermarket support.
If Tikka could JUST come with a god damn 20 moa rail.
Great info, thanks guys. This will be my third barrel on this Tikka action. I bought it back when the REM 700 was the shizzle nizzle (and everyone of them had to be trued). Chad at LRI said he didn't need to true the Tikka and it's been a shooter, that was 6 years ago. This barrel is toast and will be getting replaced with a PROOF pre-fit to lighten it up for packing up the hill for Elk.
Gotta find a good lightweight stock for it too since it's in a chassis and decide on a blind box magazine or a bottom metal. Might use one of Stocky's carbon fiber Tikka stocks.
Also need to find an in-stock Tikka action wrench and barrel vice. PVA is out of stock on the Tikka wrenches.
Gotta find a good lightweight stock for it too since it's in a chassis and decide on a blind box magazine or a bottom metal. Might use one of Stocky's carbon fiber Tikka stocks.
Also need to find an in-stock Tikka action wrench and barrel vice. PVA is out of stock on the Tikka wrenches.
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Normally this is true but with the WTO or ARC barloc you kind of get the best of both worlds. No vice needed, headspace yourself with brass or go gauge, tighten with torque wrench. Makes it ALMOST as easy as the AI quick change system.
Tikka actions are awesome though, worth the hassle to save $400-600.
Check bugholes for tikka action wrenches. They are tanks. Just got mine and it was in stock
You really need to stop posting this. I’m trying really hard to limit myself to two calibres only.Well, if you want to talk about the best solution, IMO, it's this. All you need are wrench flats cut into the muzzle end of your barrel and a cheap $30 torque wrench. Your chassis serves at the action wrench. No sending you action off to WTO to be fitted for a switchlug and good luck with the Barloc.
Switch barrel addiction. Do I have a problem?
I've been running two TL3's in a deceptively simple and amazingly reliable and consistent, shade-tree switch barrel set up for the last two years. Just wrench flats on the muzzle end of the barrel, torquing the barrels on at 40 ft/lbs using an Auto Zone $30 torque wrench with a 3/4" crowsfoot to...www.snipershide.com
Hmm, my sons will be old enough to shoot soon enough and will need to transition through several calibres as they get older...
Well, if you want to talk about the best solution, IMO, it's this. All you need are wrench flats cut into the muzzle end of your barrel and a cheap $30 torque wrench. Your chassis serves at the action wrench. No sending you action off to WTO to be fitted for a switchlug and good luck with the Barloc.
Switch barrel addiction. Do I have a problem?
I've been running two TL3's in a deceptively simple and amazingly reliable and consistent, shade-tree switch barrel set up for the last two years. Just wrench flats on the muzzle end of the barrel, torquing the barrels on at 40 ft/lbs using an Auto Zone $30 torque wrench with a 3/4" crowsfoot to...
How do you deal with POI/scope zero between different barrels? Do you find barrel RTZ perfectly after a barrel change?
I’ve been curious about this for a while. Do you time the wrench flats a specific way/direction with relation to the receiver? I would expect so, but am interested in your answer.Well, if you want to talk about the best solution, IMO, it's this. All you need are wrench flats cut into the muzzle end of your barrel and a cheap $30 torque wrench. Your chassis serves at the action wrench. No sending you action off to WTO to be fitted for a switchlug and good luck with the Barloc.
Switch barrel addiction. Do I have a problem?
I've been running two TL3's in a deceptively simple and amazingly reliable and consistent, shade-tree switch barrel set up for the last two years. Just wrench flats on the muzzle end of the barrel, torquing the barrels on at 40 ft/lbs using an Auto Zone $30 torque wrench with a 3/4" crowsfoot to...
Well, if you want to talk about the best solution, IMO, it's this. All you need are wrench flats cut into the muzzle end of your barrel and a cheap $30 torque wrench. Your chassis serves at the action wrench. No sending you action off to WTO to be fitted for a switchlug and good luck with the Barloc.
Switch barrel addiction. Do I have a problem?
I've been running two TL3's in a deceptively simple and amazingly reliable and consistent, shade-tree switch barrel set up for the last two years. Just wrench flats on the muzzle end of the barrel, torquing the barrels on at 40 ft/lbs using an Auto Zone $30 torque wrench with a 3/4" crowsfoot to...
I remember seeing this now... Very cool system. I wonder if there is enough steel at the end of a proof to have a flat machined in?
The Ross vice is also sold out... Anyone tried it on a carbon fiber barrel?
My GGS Ranger. 260 AI, Hardy CF barrel. I’ve changed the BM to an Atlasworks BM milled to accept a TRG trigger(sublime!)
What did you want to know?
Hey Anzac,
thanks for your response.
That´s a very nice looking combo there.
I´m interested in your experiences with that stock, and / or the Predator if someone has it.
How long do you use it and are you satisfied / would you buy it again?
How stable is it and how do you like the ergonomics?
Do you shoot it rested (bench or prone) only, or do you use it for hunting or tactical shooting, too?
As the Ranger is their lightest stock, and the Predator is somewhere between both worlds, do you miss something at the Ranger, I mean, would you like to have a bit more weight sometimes?
Any info you are willing to give me is appreciated.
thanks for your response.
That´s a very nice looking combo there.
I´m interested in your experiences with that stock, and / or the Predator if someone has it.
How long do you use it and are you satisfied / would you buy it again?
How stable is it and how do you like the ergonomics?
Do you shoot it rested (bench or prone) only, or do you use it for hunting or tactical shooting, too?
As the Ranger is their lightest stock, and the Predator is somewhere between both worlds, do you miss something at the Ranger, I mean, would you like to have a bit more weight sometimes?
Any info you are willing to give me is appreciated.
I have the first BugNut barrel that Greg at SPR did on a Tikka. He offers two sizes of nuts depending on the look you like. I have gone back to shouldered barrels on my other Tikkas though. You will need an action wrench and barrel vise. My son and I are going with the Carbonsix prefit barrels for our lightweight hunting Tikkas. I know of a few guys that have had good luck with them.
I have swapped barrels between two of my Tikkas and they headspace on the money. Shouldered barrels are easier and take less time than the barrel nut.
Attachments
Good to know, thanks @260284.
I think I'll do a shouldered PROOF for my hunting build and get a barrel vice and action wrench. Will need those to pull the barrel anyways. I'll also consider a field expedient barrel change method eventually.
Who's making shouldered Tikka pre-fit barrels now?
These are ones I know of:
Proof
Carbon Six
Bugnuts
PVA
Criterion (I think)
Pretty cool how far the Fin rifle has come here in the US.
I think I'll do a shouldered PROOF for my hunting build and get a barrel vice and action wrench. Will need those to pull the barrel anyways. I'll also consider a field expedient barrel change method eventually.
Who's making shouldered Tikka pre-fit barrels now?
These are ones I know of:
Proof
Carbon Six
Bugnuts
PVA
Criterion (I think)
Pretty cool how far the Fin rifle has come here in the US.
Apologies for the late reply.
I’d definitely buy again. The ergos are superb for me though I’ve now replaced the butt pad with a height adjustable AI unit.
I can very comfortably use both a traditional wrapped grip into the thumb hole and a rested grip. Weight balances well with the shouldered 24 inch Hardy CF barrel. I’ve another Hardy CF barrel for it in 22-250.
I did reseat the mini chassis. The original skewed mini chassis had the barrel canted off laterally some. It’s only secured by silicon so removing, taping the barrel and re-siliconing it had it squared up and away nicely. Added a Sterk recoil lug that required a V light honing to press fit into the mini chassis.
I’m still sorting a load with work constantly getting in the way..
I’d definitely buy again. The ergos are superb for me though I’ve now replaced the butt pad with a height adjustable AI unit.
I can very comfortably use both a traditional wrapped grip into the thumb hole and a rested grip. Weight balances well with the shouldered 24 inch Hardy CF barrel. I’ve another Hardy CF barrel for it in 22-250.
I did reseat the mini chassis. The original skewed mini chassis had the barrel canted off laterally some. It’s only secured by silicon so removing, taping the barrel and re-siliconing it had it squared up and away nicely. Added a Sterk recoil lug that required a V light honing to press fit into the mini chassis.
I’m still sorting a load with work constantly getting in the way..
Since your barrel isn't the factory barrel, an inside wrench should work just fine. I tweaked my PVA wrench trying to get my 260 CTR barrel off. Ended up having it relief cut. My 270 barrel came loose after soaking in kroil for a few weeks.
Really tempted to go with flats on my future barrels so it is easier to swap them. Need to talk to my local smith.
Curious on the concensus around accuracy of the above list... Wanting to rebarrel with. CF and only using for LR targets - thoughts?
I wouldn't spend the $$ on carbon fiber for a target/PRS rifle. Weight is your friend.
Gonna build a hunting gun for my son and I have a spare Tikka Action. I also have a 6BRA reamer and was curious if anyone has gotten 6BR to feed reliably in a Tikka with AICS mags? I have some AICS mags with spacers for 6BR already where I run them in my Bighorn.
Thanks
Thanks
I run the MDT 12 round mags with the Primal Rights kits in my 22BR Tikka. They hold 13 and feed great.
Goodies from the USA .
Awesome quality on these Hoptic USA products.
Saddle blanket for TAC A1 is a must for all Tikka owners.
.Awesome quality on these Hoptic USA products.
Saddle blanket for TAC A1 is a must for all Tikka owners.
Looks like its not his first time posting stuff for sale like that
Does anyone have , or know where to find a schematic drawing or total disassembly on the TacA1 trigger? Im assuming its the same as the CTR and all other T3 triggers.
The TAC A1 trigger is 2 stage, all other factory Tikka triggers are single stage.
My first thought was, "what overtravel and creep?" Must be seriously gilding the lily.
-Stooxie
Maybe there are some differences between examples. Mine has a small amount of perceptible movement prior to break. It would be nice to have a sear engagement adjustment to minimize this.
Mine also has lots of over travel. This doesn't bother some people but I would like the option of adjusting it out.
At US$30, I will definitely be giving this a try.
First post: 5 shot group hug with the Tikka T3 Tac A1 in 260 Remington at 102 yards. It was raining but at least the temperature was comfortable.
Load was 140gr ELD Match over 42gr of H4350.
Load was 140gr ELD Match over 42gr of H4350.
12 shots 6.5creedmoor Tikka TAC A1 330-yards.
123gr Lapua Scenar.
Lapua brass
Vihtavuori N150 39,5gr.
123gr Lapua Scenar.
Lapua brass
Vihtavuori N150 39,5gr.
Currently my Tikka is sitting in its factory Tupperware stock. Not really sure what to do with it, but I want a rifle that is light enough to shoot matches like Steel Safari or Mammoth, hunt with occasionally, and also shoot regular matches with. I’ve thought about the Bravo, MDT ESS, and the unweighted MDT ACC chassis. I still can’t decide which option is best here. What do you guys think?
Would add the GRS Bifrost and German Gun Stock, Raptor or Predator, just to make it a bit more complicated.
I put mine in a Bravo...works greatWould add the GRS Bifrost and German Gun Stock, Raptor or Predator, just to make it a bit more complicated.
