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Function for sure. With the OEM bolt handle, your hand has to move slightly forward to grasp the knob. This means that to cycle the bolt, your hand has to move forward, then back. With the swept knob, the knob is straight above or slightly back from your fingers so the bolt cycling is smoother/ quicker. Well worth the $ in my opinion.
Of course you do. Set it up with a scope and ammo.
The factory stock won't make you cool on the interest, but it'll work just fine, and you won't care if it gets dragged along rocks and smacked against trees.
A T3 would make a great Elk hunting rifle. How you set it up will depend largely on your budget and the expected distance of shots. In timber, the factory stock and lower power scope (3-9 X) would be just fine. If you're expecting 400 yard + shots, a higher power scope and an aftermarket stock would help.
Tikka T3X lites are getting really popular in our elk camp. Lightweight, accurate, great value in a hunting rifle. We hunt mostly close distance but I couldn't help myself so I set mine up light AND for long range with a Proof barrel and McMillan stock.
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I have access to the backside of a big national forest.
There would be some shots across small canyons and some lightly forested slopes.
There would be some shots across small canyons and some lightly forested slopes.
What caliber? What is your expected longest shot? What is the longest shot that you can make with certainty on a 12 x 12 target from a field position? The answers to those three questions will determine how you need to set it up.
Try Sterk swept and you know why
It is awesome.
I have Sterk swept on all my 3 Tikka rifles.
While I have not tried the Glades, I had the stock CTR handle and the Sterk ball. The Sterk had significantly less perceived effort for bolt cycling compared to the factory CTR. For reference I have smaller hands (I wear medium gloves).
Look and see, the swept is the key
Trigger or stock - which one would you rather upgrade?
Hey guys,
I´m building a CTR step by step because I´m a bit on a budget.
I´ve bedded the system in the original stock, but the bedding broke right in front of the magazine shaft, on both sides where the magazine shaft begins exactly.
I think that this section is to weak and gets some every shot.
So I´m planning on switching to a KRG Bravo.
And I swaped in a trigger spring from yodave, so the trigger is actually really fine, but I´m used to two-stage-triggers and am fighting a bit with this one.
I want to change the trigger to a Timney two-stage, which I´m using in my AR and am satisfied.
So:
If you only can afford one of them at a time, which one would you change first, stock or trigger?
Cheers,
Jay
Hey guys,
I´m building a CTR step by step because I´m a bit on a budget.
I´ve bedded the system in the original stock, but the bedding broke right in front of the magazine shaft, on both sides where the magazine shaft begins exactly.
I think that this section is to weak and gets some every shot.
So I´m planning on switching to a KRG Bravo.
And I swaped in a trigger spring from yodave, so the trigger is actually really fine, but I´m used to two-stage-triggers and am fighting a bit with this one.
I want to change the trigger to a Timney two-stage, which I´m using in my AR and am satisfied.
So:
If you only can afford one of them at a time, which one would you change first, stock or trigger?
Cheers,
Jay
I asked this in a different forum but didn't get an answer. I have a TAC A1. Is there a different forend that will fit this? One without a top rail. I want to put a 20 moa rail on it ,but I have a 56 mm objective and I'm afraid I won't get clearance.
If it were me, I'd change the stock first. To me, it sounds like you're having bigger issues with the bedding on your factory plastic stock than you are with your trigger.
I like Timney 2 stage triggers for the 700 pattern rifles. I do not like it for the Tikka. It is a downgrade. I’m not anal about triggers so if I had to have a two stage I would have kept it. I could care less which I use so I pulled it and sold it.
As for the stock bedding i wouldn’t know. I don’t believe in bedding stocks. I compare bedding stocks to truing actions. It is something guys do to feel good
Change the stock.
If you're so inclined, you can modify the trigger spring or the adjustment screw. Making any of those parts shorter will reduce the pressure on the trigger and reduce pull weight. The springs are cheap enough to replace if you go too short and end up with an unsafe or inoperable trigger. If you modify the screw and go short, you can always just screw it deeper into the housing to increase pressure back where it should be.
Leave the pin alone because if you bugger it up, replacements must be hand-delivered by Finnish virgins for the low, low price of $87 like other Tikka parts.
I would start with the stock as the Trigger w/ aftermarket spring is so good. Bear in mind that if you go with a Timney trigger, you will lose your bolt lock. KRG Tikka Triggers do have a bolt lock but are a bit more expensive than Timney. I had a KRG trigger and it was very nice but I found that I prefer a single stage so ended up going back to the factory trigger.
OG Tikka T3, Proof barrel 308 1:10, 24”.
Load was a 168g ABLR over 48.5g PP2000MR.
Load was a 168g ABLR over 48.5g PP2000MR.
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The Oem tikka trigger locks the bolt closed when the safety is on. The timney trigger removes that function.
Some hate it, some like it. Im okay with my bolt being locked, but would love a 2stage. So eventually I will purchase the krg midas
Timney triggers don't have the pin that moves up when the rifle is put on safe to lock the bolt. With the timney, it acts like a remington (can cycle the bolt with the safety on). I don't know if it has the sear block either. Both the factory and the KRG have the sear block making it a safer with a low trigger pull weight in my opinion. FYI: I'm not 100% sure if the Timney has the sear block - I'm just assuming it doesn't due to the way it's constructed.
Doesn't look like it. 22-250, 223, 6.5 Creed.
Just go ctr. Almost same profile, threaded muzzle, 10 round mags.
Get the Bravo first, and you might just like it how your trigger hands is lay in the Bravo straight grip, with Yodaves
spring you get it very sweet trigger feel.
I have Timney, KRG Tikka 2-stage trigger, but Tikka original trigger with yodave spring is one hell of a trigger, and cheap to tune
You can swap the forend, if you use the 2 screw clamp type of forend.
That might look good on it.
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First post. I’m not sure if I came here to boast or to complain. Anyhow I bought my wife a T3X superlite in 243 Win. I shot three rounds at about 25 yards walking it towards the center of target. I then shot it 3 times from the porch railing (sand bagged, no wind) at a target 125 yards across the draw. I couldn’t tell if I even hit paper so I walked over to the target and found below. My wife’s first riffle, right out of the box, is more accurate than any rifle I’ve owned in 51 years. Gotta love those Tikkas, even if they’re not technically yours.
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I can’t explain the low one. No excuse for not putting all three rounds in same hole. I might have got a bad trigger though.Yeah, Finnish crap, we are all brothers in suffering.
Nice group there, but what is that flyer below?
I have my old factory stock from a T3 .308,. One of the old Scout 20" HB models. Barreled action is now a 6.5CM in a chassis. A friend has offered me a T3 Tactical .223 barreled action + factory mag. Would his barreled action and mag be compatible with my stock?
As I understand it,. They'd both have the same footprint, with the short action bolt stop and the mag body's are the same with the spacer in his .223 mag making up the difference...?
Thanks for your wisdom.
As I understand it,. They'd both have the same footprint, with the short action bolt stop and the mag body's are the same with the spacer in his .223 mag making up the difference...?
Thanks for your wisdom.
Hey guys, going to be posting all my tikka's up in the PX here soon. Look out for them if any of you are interested.
Going to AI. Nothing wrong with the Tikka's, still awesome rifles but having the quick change barrel and not being able to constantly change things will help out alot.
Custom cerakoted, M05 Finnish military pattern.
Hope we're right. Worst case scenario I have to hold a Barreled action for a few winter months and save up for a chassis I guess.
That's sad to see you leave the Tikka club. Your CTR in the McMillan inspired my first build.
I got a barloc for quick barrel changes. Currently only have one barrel, but hope to have that change as time goes on.
Believe it or not but the McMillan is still my favorite, above the J Allen's. Everytime I take the 223 out it feels like home. I'm not quite there with the JAE.
My lil Thumper, started life as a Tikka T3 Boar Cabelas exclusive. Replaced the front bead with the Tikka Battue fiber and placed it in a Boyds Walnut Platinum stock. Simple and clean. 300WM 8lbs 5 oz with scope, 6 lbs 15 oz with irons only. Kinda my own Tikka version of the Sako Grizzly.
Having scanned through the over 100 pages here I noticed it's quite common to replace the factory picatinny scope base for an aftermarket one with 20MOA or so built in. What I'm wondering is keeping the factory base and gaining the elevation via a scope mount with built in 20MOA just as good a set up or is there a reason why most seem not to do that? Put another way are there benefits or disadvantages of going with either, or are they essentially equal paths to the same end result? In my case I'm particularly thinking about a Tikka CTR.
There are no real disadvantages or advantages of having a 20 MOA scope mount vs a 20 MOA base.
So I plan on picking up a t3x lite when I get off; my local store has a blued 6.5 for 540 or a stainless .308 for 640... this is my first long range rifle and I’m kinda partial to getting a 6.5 but is their a significant advantage to getting a stainless for $100 more especially if it’s not my preferred caliber?
Depends on use and how well you care for your rifles. I buy all stainless now. I take care of my rifles pretty well but if I don't feel like it some night after a hard hunt in the rain, I just let it dry off and don't worry about it. Could I do the same with blued? Probably but it just helps my peace of mind. Your mileage may vary. FYI- Stainless will tarnish too especially if a lot of sweaty hands handle them like at a gun store.
It will mostly be a range rifle with the occasional boar hunt but I don’t see it going out in the rain. Stainless is nice and shiny but being in .308 and not 6.5 is my main deciding factor. I’m only shooting 500 yards and I know at that range there’s not really a difference in accuracy.
