What about the MDT makes it better than the Bravo?
Did you consider a KRG Whiskey or Xray?
I'm thinking of giving a chassis a shot, but there are so many choices it's hard to know where to start.
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Did you consider a KRG Whiskey or Xray?
I'm thinking of giving a chassis a shot, but there are so many choices it's hard to know where to start.
The main thing for me was around the grip. I really like the MDT vertical grip with a tiny thumb shelf. Makes it much more comfortable to grip for me than the Bravo. The more pronounced mag well / barricade stop is nice as well. That's really about it. Everything else about the Bravo can be modified to get there -
$68 for an arca rail
$68 for the adjustable buttpiece
But unless I file down the grip and make it fit me better, not much can be done there.
It matches my T1X as well.
$68 for an arca rail
$68 for the adjustable buttpiece
But unless I file down the grip and make it fit me better, not much can be done there.
It matches my T1X as well.
Redhawk Rifles carries the Mesa Stock now, so if you are looking for one with a lite barrel contour and factory bottom metal, you can get it in a matter of a few days.
See if you like something by https://www.pse-composites.com/
https://www.s2va.com/category-s/142.htm should have them in USA, if you are there.
The longer ARCA rail is a huge bonus too. I will have one for my match rifle eventually.
So I have now a bravo (thanks to @littlepod ??) and have had a whiskey 3 for a few months and either one of those is a great option depending on what you want to spend. Both offer adjustability, stability, look great, offer tons of mounting points for different things.
I haven't gotten used to the longer arca rail. I don't run my bipod all the way up in the front, it just feels weird using it that far up. I guess I shot the Bravo for so long that I like the fulcrum point right at the end of what the Bravo was offering. I need to look up why I would want to run the Bipod so far up compared to slightly back.
I like the weight/balance of the MDT though.
Son´s 223rem CTR got new can on the nose.
JAKI titanium hunter.
JAKI titanium hunter.
I have a spigot on my X-Ray that I definately would never need (and couldn't reach if they made one) on the ACC. Don't know that I would ever run it that far out, but on some of the stages with large tractor tires it might come in handy.
Okay that makes sense
I definitely like Arca... On the 55 gallon barrel stages I have the bipod run perfectly to line up with the barrel edges & my bag rider to create a super stable platform.
I assembled my first FrankenTikka today out of parts I had. Wanted to relay a few things:
1. Using a stainless .223 T3x Lite as a donor rifle, removing the barrel was a piece of cake. I was actually disappointed when the thing came off without any problems. Had my eye and ear protection on, 4 pound hammer in hand and was ready to give the action wrench a good smack. I did a half-assed test hit and the thing spun right off.
2. The threads were thoughtfully coated in some kind of anti-seize grease.
3. I spun on a spare 20" 7mm-08 Tikka barrel I had laying around. It tightened up with the caliber lettering landing in exactly the right spot. Checked witih Forster headspace gauges-- perfect. Bolt closed on the GO, wouldn't close on the NO-GO.
4. Dropped it in a CTR stock and torqued it up. Feeds and ejects perfectly.
This shit is Legos for adults. Stuff just snaps together and works great.
Below is how I remove the barrel. I grab the barrel where the taper flattens out and then support it with a 1x1. That takes the flex out of the system. Using a Wheeler #1 action wrench clamped on the flats, 90 degrees perpendicular to the 1x1, give a good whack (or half assed whack) with the hammer and it's done. Three sheets of copy paper grip the barrel and leave zero markings.
Build away, ladies and gents! It's fun!
(Anyone want the barrel?)
ETA: Yes, I had a spare 308 bolt as well. I'll keep the 223 one incase I want to make another 6.8 SPC Tikka.
-Stooxie
1. Using a stainless .223 T3x Lite as a donor rifle, removing the barrel was a piece of cake. I was actually disappointed when the thing came off without any problems. Had my eye and ear protection on, 4 pound hammer in hand and was ready to give the action wrench a good smack. I did a half-assed test hit and the thing spun right off.
2. The threads were thoughtfully coated in some kind of anti-seize grease.
3. I spun on a spare 20" 7mm-08 Tikka barrel I had laying around. It tightened up with the caliber lettering landing in exactly the right spot. Checked witih Forster headspace gauges-- perfect. Bolt closed on the GO, wouldn't close on the NO-GO.
4. Dropped it in a CTR stock and torqued it up. Feeds and ejects perfectly.
This shit is Legos for adults. Stuff just snaps together and works great.
Below is how I remove the barrel. I grab the barrel where the taper flattens out and then support it with a 1x1. That takes the flex out of the system. Using a Wheeler #1 action wrench clamped on the flats, 90 degrees perpendicular to the 1x1, give a good whack (or half assed whack) with the hammer and it's done. Three sheets of copy paper grip the barrel and leave zero markings.
Build away, ladies and gents! It's fun!
(Anyone want the barrel?)
ETA: Yes, I had a spare 308 bolt as well. I'll keep the 223 one incase I want to make another 6.8 SPC Tikka.
-Stooxie
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I went with the KRG mag. Figured if I had a problem they would help. But no worries, the work flawlessly
I ran the MDT 10-rounders w/o any problems.
The KRG-Mag is just an accurate-mag, where they engraved their logo on it.
The KRG-Mag is just an accurate-mag, where they engraved their logo on it.
I just got around to checking the group sizes from my second outing with the 24" 6.5cm CTR. I didn't think the gun liked the Hornady 147gr ELD-M as much as either the 140gr ELD-M or the 140gr BTHP. My suspicions were confirmed by measuring the groups but, it is not as bad as I thought it would be; group sizes at 100 and 200 yards are about 1/8moa larger with the 147's. Since I just added Ballistic-X to my app collection, might as well post up best 200yd group from Sunday.
Bob
Ballistic-X-Export-2019-12-11 171345.830598 by Bob, on Flickr
Bob
Ballistic-X-Export-2019-12-11 171345.830598 by Bob, on Flickr
I have a both in the 5 and 10 rounders. They both function well, but if I had to choose it would be MDT because their 10 rounder is shorter than the KRG/Accurate mag.
I run MDT mags and with the exception of one early production mag that was replaced under warranty ( thanks @MDT_OFFICIAL ! ) they have been flawless in my Tikka / Bravo combination.
I’ll be trying them out in my Tikka / MDT ACC after Christmas, but I’m pretty confident that there won’t be any issues.
Buy the “Non-Binder Plate” versions if you are hand loading to allow a longer OAL.
I’ll be trying them out in my Tikka / MDT ACC after Christmas, but I’m pretty confident that there won’t be any issues.
Buy the “Non-Binder Plate” versions if you are hand loading to allow a longer OAL.
picking up a TX3 lite here in a couple of days in a trade and I wanted to explore barrel options. I didn't read all 124 pages of this thread but was curious if these guns required or didn't require any special gunsmithing. it's in .300wsm but I would like to put a heavier barrel on it and change out the stock. does anyone have a good recommendation on where to start with this? TIA.
MDT 12 round magazines for me, binder plate versions with Primal Rights kits for my 22BR and the non binder plate for my 6.5 Creedmoor. They are the same length as most 10 round AICS mags and I can get 13 rounds of 22BR in them.
It has been reported as difficult or impossible to remove stock Tikka barrels. Some have reported success with soaking in Kroil for up to a week, applying heat, and either using long cheater bars or impact with hammers. Others have had to make relief cuts in the stock barrel.
You will also need someone to chamber the new barrel. Carbon Six is doing profits for Tikka and I think another outfit has a barrel nut setup for them, otherwise the gunsmith will need your action in hand for chambering.
Proof also does pre-fit barrels for Tikka now. You can get both steel and carbon versions from Stocky's.
If someone needs a Bravo stock, I have one that I'll be selling. I haven't put it on the PX yet but would sell it.
No, I got a good deal on McMillan 100% coupon so have a McMillan on the way. That's why I haven't put it on the PX yet as I have a few more months before that shows up. That being said, if someone wanted the Bravo, I would sell it now.Did you get in on a MDT/MPA BF sale?
Do we have any TAC A1 love in this forum?
I like mine, so far, just heard that KRG has new competition chassis from the Whiskey, though not sure is it for rem actions only.
So far this one can stay as it is, a predator hunter.
I like mine, so far, just heard that KRG has new competition chassis from the Whiskey
, though not sure is it for rem actions only.So far this one can stay as it is, a predator hunter.
Already done, waiting patiently
By the way mcmillan just delivered a tikka stock to me after 3.5 month, great Christmas gift but was expecting it to go the 6 months quoted.
Could probably pick the bravo up from you locally as well if you would be up for it, I’m down that way somewhat often.
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Should probably take this conversation to a PM so the rest of the guys don't get sick of looking at our business
Sorry guys.
Anyone using the Timney 2-stage trigger on their T3X? I have two outings with my CTR and 180 rounds total. The accuracy potential of this rifle is probably the best I've ever owned but, I need to tighten some things up. First outing was with the factory trigger as delivered. Second trip to the range, I had adjusted the trigger down with the stock spring to where the adjusting screw was about 1/4 turn off the trigger mounting screw head. It lightened up a lot but, I don't know if I'm going to be able to adapt to a single stage trigger; been shooting two stage for nearly 40 years. I found the Timney 2-stage trigger at Anarchy Outdoors and am thinking it might be a good solution for me. Like to hear your experiences and any other recommendations.
Bob
Bob
I had a KRG Mitas trigger that I thought was very nice but unlike you, I'm used to the single stage so I sold it and went back to the factory with aftermarket spring. The biggest difference in my mind between the KRG Midas and Timney is the bolt lock. Timney does not have a bolt lock, KRG does. Even though I sold the Midas, I thought it was a great 2 stage and very adjustable including length of pull which Timney also does not have.
where did you find one? There were two on gunbroker a day ago and now they’re gone!
I have in on my son 223rem.
It´s nice trigger for the money.
Also got KRG Midas, which is very nice trigger, you can also adjust trigger position, and i really like that.
Then i have also Tikka 2-stage trigger.
With yodaves sping is very light, but still wont brake off if you do not pull the trigger.
Tikka with Bravo chassis on, was a TAC A1, i sold the chassis and drop the action to the Bravo chassis.
Check out this video.
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When I had my Midas,I thought the same thing..."it just felt nice". Hard to explain but I think it was a combination of adjustable shoe positioning and the finish on the trigger shoe...smooth to the feel but not slick.
Buddy of mine just changed his barrel, came off easy. He's never done a barrel swap before either.
I have barrel changed, Krieger SS barrel on now, gunsmith told when i asked, was it any hard to get out, hi told me that nothing more than normal bolt action.
But if you have black action and naturally black barrel that is done in the factory, and if it has been there for a long time, it might get rust on the threads, and that might be pita to take of.
Mine was also rust on the barrel threads, since snow and s..t here in Finland.
Stainless i bet is easier to get of, since it does not have that much to rust, but Tikka SS will rust if you let it wet in your gun bag, have seen those rifles too
Here´s my Krieger Tikka, shoots like a dream.
6.5 Creedmoor.
Gunsmith in Finland was Ensio Firearms, they do custom rifles and custom jobs too.
That´s true.
KRG trigger is true precision rifle trigger, thought it can not be set as sensitive as Timney if you do PRS or long range and want super low weight trigger, if that what you want, im good with that Midas about 2lbs trigger pull.
But i have heard few sad story about Timneys, for me i have not had any issue, but it´s good to know they have a long warranty.
I should do a new short clip of the triggers, and i wish i had a trigger scale, so i could do a little compare.
KRG trigger does not move more than a 1-2mm, after it is on the breaking wall, Tikka 2-stage moves 3 time as KRG.
Timney is on my other safe, so im not gonna do the comparison now.
Viking78. So has tikka made you their company photographer yet or what?
Just installed my 22-250 varmint in the new CTR Bravo. I've been waiting for KRG to come out with this version of the Bravo and the wait was worth it.
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