Build a 6.5 PRC off a 6.5 Creedmoor. Can be done for less than $300.
Minus the McMillan and scope and stuff.
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Build a 6.5 PRC off a 6.5 Creedmoor. Can be done for less than $300.
Minus the McMillan and scope and stuff.
Tikka is setting up to release a 6.5 PRC. Shot show interview said June but id put a BIG ish at the end of that date due to the COVID shutdown
Do you happen to have a resource that shows the countours of factory Tikka rifles? I guess that's really the heart of my question.
CTR is the way to go if you plan to immediately drop in into an better stock. CTR is a light palma barrel ish contour. sell the stock or or paint it up for a back-up, second stock.
What makes the CTR better for a planned stock swap? Sorry if I missed the linkup in the discussion
Threaded barrel, external magazine fed, Pic Rail, it is just ready for a new stock or chasis. You are not waisting any money by ditching the plastic stock. The Tac1 is the only other option to offer these features, but you pay twice the price and it comes with its own chasis.
The lites are about a 2.5-3 ish contour. Ctr's are about a light palma per @bohem. Varmints are slightly heavier.
To get the mag bolt face factory you have to go lite profile. Stainless lite 7 mag is a jrtxb370. Laminated stainless is jrtxb370.
CTRs also have a metal anodized bottom metal and mag if you choose to put it on a stock that accepts it; like a GRS
Not sure if this has already been mentioned, but Straight Jacket Armory is now doing Tikka prefits.
straightjacketarmory.com
I have 3 barrels from them for another action and they are all hammers.
Tikka Shouldered Stainless Pre-fit Barrels - Straight Jacket Armory
Tikka Prefit shouldered barrels for Tikka T3, T3x and CTR. Shouldered match grade prefits by Straight Jacket armory LLC.
straightjacketarmory.com
I have 3 barrels from them for another action and they are all hammers.
Has anyone changed their TAC A1 chassis out for a Bravo? I have another rifle in a Bravo and find it more natural and comfortable than the Tikka chassis. Is there any market for the Tikka chassis if I replace it.
So first time out after doing this, no kaboom. Only very faint primer strikes. I didn't take away tons of the bolt stop material. Barreled action had been firing just fine before. Didn't mess with the barrel or the bolt. 140gr American Gunner.
Any troubleshooting tips?
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Im no gunsmith but I dont see the cause as linked. Not saying something isnt wrong, but if I understand it right the bolt stop only functions to interact with the rifle what the bolt is fully rearward. It shouldnt affect the chambered round with the bolt engaged with it. Am I nuts? Wait...dont answer that last part
A bolt stop (release) would not cause that issue as it has nothing to do with the firing sequence. . Completely unrelated. Not closing the bolt all the way down against the action when chambering a round, or a dirty firing pin could cause it. The pin needs to be free of grease and oil. Check that.
Here's an oddball question - does anyone make an aftermarket stock that mimics the ergos/form of the factory stock with the vertical grip module installed? In terms of size and shape, it's about as good as it gets for a hunting stock for me. Useable slope on the fore end, fits my hands well. The comb could be 1 cm higher and still clear the bolt for disassembly, but that's minor.
@utnapishtim - I bought my 7mm TM T3x as a project gun for the action...and now I don't wanna change it. I haven't seen a POI shift even as I shoot the barrel hot. It'll put factory SST in 154/162 on top of one another if you hold up your end. I still need to try the ELD-X. At 8.75 lbs all up (ammo, sling, etc.) with a Ares BTR2 on it, it's my lightest "ready to hunt" rifle. The recoil is not unpleasant, but it does demand more of me as a shooter than I can deliver 100% of the time. I spent about 40 bucks on bedding/stabilising, and 10 bucks on a trigger spring - and it just plain gets the job done for less than $700. I like the 7mm RM a lot in terms of performance, was just gonna move laterally to the 7mm SAUM or WSM. With the 162 Amax or 168 Matrix VLD, my max COL is only like 3.4 and change...so, with new bottom metal, the not-quite-long-action wouldn't really be holding me back any if I stuck with 7mm RM for a bit.
@utnapishtim - I bought my 7mm TM T3x as a project gun for the action...and now I don't wanna change it. I haven't seen a POI shift even as I shoot the barrel hot. It'll put factory SST in 154/162 on top of one another if you hold up your end. I still need to try the ELD-X. At 8.75 lbs all up (ammo, sling, etc.) with a Ares BTR2 on it, it's my lightest "ready to hunt" rifle. The recoil is not unpleasant, but it does demand more of me as a shooter than I can deliver 100% of the time. I spent about 40 bucks on bedding/stabilising, and 10 bucks on a trigger spring - and it just plain gets the job done for less than $700. I like the 7mm RM a lot in terms of performance, was just gonna move laterally to the 7mm SAUM or WSM. With the 162 Amax or 168 Matrix VLD, my max COL is only like 3.4 and change...so, with new bottom metal, the not-quite-long-action wouldn't really be holding me back any if I stuck with 7mm RM for a bit.
I hope so...I've got one on order for my M70 already...but, I'm not throwing down another $700 bucks for a six+ month wait without getting the first one in hand.
How do you find your German gun stocks? What size tapper barrel is on the rifle in the back ground? I’m thinking of ordering a raptor for my custom tikka build, I’m running a straight tapper Lilja barrel but not shore if it will fit the raptor barrel channel
How is the 18” barrel with the 6.5cm? Does it group well? What distance do you shot it at? Looks awesome
The barrel on the rifle in the Raptor is a light varmint that has been profiled to match the Tikka receiver. I had to open up the barrel channel to get the clearance that I needed. Heavy palma is about the limit for a German Gun Stock without doing any work to it. They might be able to build one with a larger channel, but I have not asked.
I really like them for hunting, but I like a heavier rifle, 20+ lbs, for matches. I am eyeing the MDT ACC.
I am picking up my first Tikka today at bass pro. Went with the t3X in 6.5 stainless. My first mod will be a stock. I want to keep the cost and weight down as much as possible as this will be my hunting rifle. Anyone have experience with Bell and Carlson stocks ?
I bought a Bell & Carlson for a 1022 and it was not that smooth where it bedded against to receiver so I had to machine it flat on my drill press with a straight router bit. They are ok but IMO not worth the money. I think a KRG Bravo is a great choice and it is not that heavy. I have my Tikka CTR 6.5 stainless in one. I love it.
I have 4 Tikka's in 4 different configurations. If you want to keep it light for hunting, you have a couple of good options. Manners ultralight , McMillan edge or Red Hawk rifles mesa precision, all weight between 26-30 oz. But the factory stock weighs around 28 ounces so you're not going to gain much weight wise. Stiffness and overall quality is miles better though. I had a B&C on one and didn't like the palm swell and overall blockiness of the stock, compared to factory or the others. My favorite on the hunting rifle is a McMillan edge Sako pattern. Search the classifieds in some of the online forums and you can score one usually for $500 or so. The B&C will cost about 250, are the others 2x as good? Yes. My opinion.
I got really lucky and scored a T3x TAC A1 with good glass from EuroOptics. That factory chassis is really a nice piece. I also have a KRG Bravo for my T1X rimfire and it is also a great chassis. I don't think you can go wrong with a KRG. Just my opinion. Lots of choices out there...
Tried the rest, I am sticking with these!Loaded up some 147 eldm.
My shorty Tikka T3 got a chassis makeover. Took it out of the Grayboe Terrain in favor for a KRG Bravo with CTR inlet. Just need to source an MLOK QD sling mount for up front and it’s good to go. Put Area 419 Arcalock rail on the bottom to share the bipod and rail changer bag previously shown on my Tac A1.
Converting the Bravo for LH use wasn’t that bad. I cut the backbone and the polymer with an endmill and then blacked it out with Brownells Alumhyde. The hole on the opposite side of the action was a little more perplexing though. I ended up fitting a small piece of black dense foam (from my A419 packaging) into the void and held it in place inside with a small strip of gorilla tape. The pressure of the action bolted in also helps keep it in place. I was thinking trying to mold something out like clay or epoxy or something, but I dunno. This works for now.
I’m really digging the Bravo so far though.
Converting the Bravo for LH use wasn’t that bad. I cut the backbone and the polymer with an endmill and then blacked it out with Brownells Alumhyde. The hole on the opposite side of the action was a little more perplexing though. I ended up fitting a small piece of black dense foam (from my A419 packaging) into the void and held it in place inside with a small strip of gorilla tape. The pressure of the action bolted in also helps keep it in place. I was thinking trying to mold something out like clay or epoxy or something, but I dunno. This works for now.
I’m really digging the Bravo so far though.
I have a CTR in a Bravo and for me it’s way too heavy for a hunting rifle, especially considering what a T3x weighs. My rifle in its current configuration is about 12lbs but it depends on how you hunt I suppose.
Can you expand on this a little? I have a similar build in mind of the factory 6.5prc gets delayed much longer but not sure where to start.
For a light stock --- Has anyone tried the XLR Magnesium Element Chassis?
I just found it recently.
I have the regular XLR Element and I like it --- But that is a regular heavy-barrel rifle.
Not sure about a chassis for hunting
I just found it recently.
I have the regular XLR Element and I like it --- But that is a regular heavy-barrel rifle.
Not sure about a chassis for hunting
Seems to work well in Alabama...
We’re a couple of hundred feet above Sea Level and no mountains to climb makes a difference though.
Anyone know the max COL in the Tikka .223 CTR mags? Can they be notched like the MDT mags for long bullets?
I don’t think that will work
I was just talking to a guy at my range today and he said he tried that no dice so he feeds one at a time. Benchrest anyway so
Good luck
I couldn’t let it go with the foam solution on my LH Bravo. I built it up with Bondo, shaped/smoothed it, then after it was dry hit it with the Brownells Alum Hyde again. A much more solid, lasting solution.
Now I’m satisfied. A professional could have probably made it look better, but for being able to do the whole conversion at home with no wait or cost, it works for me.
Now I’m satisfied. A professional could have probably made it look better, but for being able to do the whole conversion at home with no wait or cost, it works for me.
Haha one thing at a time! I think a woodland camo pattern would be perfect, but that’s something I’ve not yet done is break out the rattle cans on a rifle before
DOOO EEEETTTT !!!!
There are several good threads here that cover the process.
Sponge paining is the quickest, easiest and literally can’t be screwed up.
McMillan does their stocks this way for a reason.
Guys I won a T3 Tac A1, and can have any barrel length or caliber of my choosing . I have a .308 20” now and an thinking about the 6.5 cm, I have Sandman S that I swap between several different guns, how do the 16” Creedmore guns shoot? Or should I go with a 24”?
What distance are you taking the 6.5 out to? That’s going to be the ultimate reason for 16” vs 24”.
Keep the can from extending into the next county, can take long shots where I call coyotes, I would have probably got a 16” .308 if it was available when I purchased the 20”
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T
Take the 24”. The MV in the Tikka barrels is a little slower than other barrels already. My 24” in 6.5CM is shooting 1/2 MOA with the factory Hornady 147 ELDM.
