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AFAIK wouldn't you need new two chassis purchased for parts to create a CTR Bravo-Xray hybrid.
Pretty sure that works technically, but financially, seems a bit much.
Unless KRG will do-it as "off menu" (custom build?), then maybe go for it.
OK, but you need to buy a bravo first, so here is your build invoice:You don't need to complete chassis.
X-Ray Rear Stock – Kinetic Research Group
kineticresearchgroup.com
$370 - Basic Bravo in T3x+CTR format
$250 - Rear X-ray ($230) w/ grips ($20)
$80 - CTR Magazine
$700 - Total cost
No worries, its good to point out all of the options. The cost issue just raised because OP was asking about temorary solution while waiting on his custom. And KRG does offer alot of cool stuff, tho...
They are pretty easy to install. I have only shot about 60 rounds through mine, but I really like it in my MDT ACC with the vertical grip. May have to swap it into my deer rifle for deer season.
Put a small ARCA plate on your factory stock with some T-Nuts and some epoxy and run it until your Manners gets done.
No, it means that rail isn't really designed for a Tikka, it just fits.
Your smith didn't do you any favors when he removed the old rail and went ahead mounting the rail he sold you.
I don't think you mentioned caliber, so if it's not too big or won't matter. You know have 2 points securing the rail on the action instead of 4.
No, it means that rail isn't really designed for a Tikka T3/T3X, it just fits.
Your smith didn't do you any favors when he removed the old rail and went ahead mounting the rail he sold you.
I don't think you mentioned caliber, so if it's not too big or won't matter. You know have 2 points securing the rail on the action instead of 4.
It was designed for a t3/t3x. Most rails don't have the holes for the 2 pins. See EGW, Area 419, Talley rings, ect.
He has 4 points securing the rail. The 2 front screws and the 2 rear screws.
Am I totally fucked or can I fix my mistake? Was changing the bolt handle on my tikka and the Allen key I had in the firing pin assembly came out, releasing the spring pressure. Now I can’t get it back in to decompress the spring.
Has anyone got any advice or made the same error?
Has anyone got any advice or made the same error?
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I am sure someone will answer you,, I am pretty sure I have seen this before and your not screwed,,, I just changed mine to a Sterk about 20 minutes ago… I can’t remember the fix,,,,
Was reading a while back about the atlasworx dbm. I haven’t exactly tested it out in the tikka yet. We had to trim the latch some but a regular aics mag seemed to tilt the round way up when exiting from the feed lips onto the ramp.
Someone mention MDT feeding more reliably? Should i just grab one of those? Or trim the latch. Tbh we only tried it for a split second. I’ll know more this weekend as i intend to bore sight and shoot groups.
Someone mention MDT feeding more reliably? Should i just grab one of those? Or trim the latch. Tbh we only tried it for a split second. I’ll know more this weekend as i intend to bore sight and shoot groups.
Here is a video showing you how to reset it.
Sterk makes a tool that works great also.
Like another user posted, I have 4 screws on the top that have been torqued to spec. If I run into issues then I will figure out a plan accordingly.
I feel more confident with a properly mounted 20 MOA rail missing the two recoil pins than a permanently bent factory mount.
its a .308 caliber.
I purchased a tool from Mountain Tactical a couple of years ago,,, pretty close to the same design,, I think they still produce them… works great!!! Edit my post with pic of rifle..
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Has anyone DLC’d a tikka?
Wanting to do a full build on one with ctr mags and trying to decide between tearing down a ctr or starting with a lite and having the action and bolt DLCd
Wanting to do a full build on one with ctr mags and trying to decide between tearing down a ctr or starting with a lite and having the action and bolt DLCd
I’ve DLCd much tighter customs. If you want to DLC go for it. It will only increase the slickness of it.
Finally got the 6cm assembled hoping to shoot groups this weekend.
Mostly just wondering how the feel of a DLC lite compares to a factory ctr costing
Little better pic with it kitted. 10lbs with can and bipod. Was hoping for a little lighter but i could probably shave some weight in there with a lighter can and bipod.
For what it’s worth the EGW rail for the Tikka T3X TAC A1 is actually pretty decent.
It has pins and a bunch of screws… Plus there is also the front screw that attaches to the forearm assembly.
I haven’t been very impressed with mountain tactical because they claim to have things in stock, and then they don’t ship them - and then delay delay delay. It’s not so much that they don’t have something in stock, it’s more a matter that their point-of-sale system doesn’t have real time inventory. It should never be a six-month delay without them reaching out to their customer base and telling them that their order is going to be delayed - which they do not do. (The owner told me we would have to “agree to disagree” - that they should be reaching out to their customers and letting them know that their orders are delayed. Or that, in my case, they never HAD the stock at all and were selling vaporware…)
I did find that Europtic is selling mountain tactical billet mags for the Tikka…. So rather than go directly to Mountain tactical I’d be inclined to buy them through Europtic. Much better customer service… also, if there’s something from Mountain tactical that you want I would be inclined to call eurooptic and see if they can add it to their list of stuff they sell.
(The most readily available replacement magazine for a Tikka T3X TAC A1 is the TRG – 22 magazine which is insanely expensive.)
It has pins and a bunch of screws… Plus there is also the front screw that attaches to the forearm assembly.
I haven’t been very impressed with mountain tactical because they claim to have things in stock, and then they don’t ship them - and then delay delay delay. It’s not so much that they don’t have something in stock, it’s more a matter that their point-of-sale system doesn’t have real time inventory. It should never be a six-month delay without them reaching out to their customer base and telling them that their order is going to be delayed - which they do not do. (The owner told me we would have to “agree to disagree” - that they should be reaching out to their customers and letting them know that their orders are delayed. Or that, in my case, they never HAD the stock at all and were selling vaporware…)
I did find that Europtic is selling mountain tactical billet mags for the Tikka…. So rather than go directly to Mountain tactical I’d be inclined to buy them through Europtic. Much better customer service… also, if there’s something from Mountain tactical that you want I would be inclined to call eurooptic and see if they can add it to their list of stuff they sell.
(The most readily available replacement magazine for a Tikka T3X TAC A1 is the TRG – 22 magazine which is insanely expensive.)
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I have a t3 tikka in 223 setup heavy as a trainer for my main rifle but would like to build a light weight tikka for hunting. I would like a 223ai for coyotes and a 6.5x47 for deer. Is it possible to buy a new t3x with the 308 bolt face and be able to use my current t3 223 bolt in the newer t3x and have 2 barrels spun up or will the older t3 bolt not work in the t3x?
Tikka T3 / T3X Right Handed Bolt Assembly 12
Check out the deal on Tikka T3 / T3X Right Handed Bolt Assembly 12 at MGW
LRI TIKKA REPLACEMENT BOLTS
The Tikka actions and rifles speak for themselves when it comes to quality and we have listened. LRI began this project in the fall of 2019 and we are finally able to offer an industry-first: Aftermarket direct replacement bolts for the Tikka actions! The case study on headspace...
www.longriflesinc.com
LRI makes a replacement bolt also. I have one and it’s wonderful.
So I take it tolerances are tight enough to swap bolts without issue and that link answers the question of interchangeability between t3/t3x. Thanks
I want a completely separate rifle setup light weight for hunting so will just buy a cheap tikka with the proper bolt and build off that. And will get a light profile 6.5 and 223 barrel and just swap bolts as needed.
Me too. They’re nice, and boron nitride coated…
(I may be wrong on that… it may be an incredibly highly polished stainless steel. Mirror finished.)
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Bix'n Andy has been backordered forever it seems, and I have a tough time going from TT Diamond and Jewell BR to Tikka and back. So, I cut 3 rings worth of spring off of my Mtn Perf spring, 1/2 ring at a time, and wound up around 8 oz with no slam fires. Just FYI for anyone wondering.
Just some anecdotal empirical evidence to back up Hornady's claim that Amax tips were melting at distance. I was testing some new loads at 600yds. Zero'd the 178ELDMs & 175TMKs then switched to 208ELDMs. I dialled these in & they were all landing in or close to V-bull but constant elevation, there was a strong gusty cross wind needing 3.5moa correction. I had 18 Amax 208 left, which are identical to the ELDMs except for the tip. I had loaded these in the same batch just to finish them off. All bar one landed 6" low on the target or 1moa. Went back to ELDMs & straight back in to the V-bull !
YMMV
YMMV
So I just measured my last 208 Amax & an ELDM. You are correct.
Amax 38.9 mm ELDM 39.2mm, other than that they are identical in every dimension. I don't see an extra .3mm length making a whole MOA of difference. The calculators say 1/2moa elevation & .2moa windage. Pic attached, sorry Amax was pretty grubby so did a quick polish on it, left ELDM right Amax.
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That is mostly poor visuals. Apart from OAL & the tiny change to the ogive that creates, all other dimensions are the same. Boat tail length & angle = same. Diameter & Bearing length = same. Weight = same. So the only difference I can measure are the ogive & oal. The tips appear to be identical size externally. Looks like the jacket has been drawn out the extra .3mm to get a slightly finer ogive.There are definitely some dimension variances between the two.
Either way loaded to max length just off the lands they shoot great in my original TAC out to 600, yet to get an opportunity to test them at 1000 or more.
You will get it out to 1000 metres, no worries.
I've took my 6.5 Creedmoor out to a mile the other weekend.
I'm sure your rounds have enough legs to get there.
I've took my 6.5 Creedmoor out to a mile the other weekend.
I'm sure your rounds have enough legs to get there.
147gr ELD-M 6.5 CM will absolutely make it to 1000 yards without issue.
Carbon6 makes one. Here is one for sale skipping the wait on a different forum.
SOLD/EXPIRED - Carbon Six 6.5 mm blank, Tikka/Winchester size shank $465 Shipped
Specs below. Please PM if interested. CarbonSix Barrel × 1 Blank or Prefit?: Blank (-$50.00) Caliber: 6.5mm 6.5mm Twist Rate: 1:7.5" Twist Contour: Featherweight Barrel Length: 22" Shank/Chamber Length: Standard (2.5") Shank/Chamber Diameter: Tikka (1.120") Muzzle Length: Extended (1.5")
Hunting suppressed rocks. Quick follow up TX heart shot on the second one before it knew what was going on.
And right when I hit send they came out down the other right away lol
Hi Guys, Thought I'd try to tap some of the collective knowledge here for Tikkas. Considering building a PRS rifle, and want to do a Tikka instead of full custom or R700. (I already have R700). I was looking for a CTR in 260/24" to put in a chassis, but none left here. (Australia). Would consider the Tac A1, but a little rich at the moment at approx $3800 AUD. So I was offered a 6.5 PRC in a CTR. reasonable price, and adding a decent chassis would work. My main question tho is does anyone have a 10 round compatible mag that would work with a long chassis? It would need to be AICS I guess, which is no problem but the only 10 round AICS long mags I've seen are single stack and way too long.
Am I just better waiting for a CTR in 260/24" instead? At the price I can get the PRC, and add a chassis, would leave me $1000 better off than the TAC A1. That's a lotta ammo for practice..........
Am I just better waiting for a CTR in 260/24" instead? At the price I can get the PRC, and add a chassis, would leave me $1000 better off than the TAC A1. That's a lotta ammo for practice..........
Nothing wrong with a 6.5PRC.
Have you thought about getting the Super Varmint?
I've got one in 6.5 Creedmoor and it shoots on par, if not better than the TAC A1 of my mates.
Either way, a Tikka action is a great choice.
Have you thought about getting the Super Varmint?
I've got one in 6.5 Creedmoor and it shoots on par, if not better than the TAC A1 of my mates.
Either way, a Tikka action is a great choice.
We have PRS customers using T3 actions quite a bit. I think the best would be to find any T3 rifle or T3 action with a 308 bolt face and get a barrel of choice without compromises fitted. Factory barrels are mostly too light or too short or the wrong twist or the wrong way made. The barrel is mainly what makes it shoot or not.
edi
