Well I had to give the crowd what they wanted right?
(but I did say its the same thing as a 'modified' 100yd zero (left ~0.55")).
(but I did say its the same thing as a 'modified' 100yd zero (left ~0.55")).
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Join the contestYou dial windage? Talk about practicalLet’s see what’s easier…..
- “zero” @ 400yds for spin drift
- reach over and click .1 left wind for 600yd spin drift
Im expecting (other than JackMaster and a couple others) SSDD.Expecting the "I'm an engineer" response anytime now.
You dial windage? Talk about practical
Your asking about 100 yard zero and then you pull a 1x4 patroll scope out of your ass.
You should set that at 50 yards by the way.
+1If the scope has easily accessed turrets, zero at 100 and DOPE yourself.
If the scope has turrets you need a dime to adjust, decide an acceptable point blank zero, zero and DOPE yourself.
clicking 'add to cart' in the first place**Bonus point for first person who can actually explain exactly wha the fatal flaw is in the tremor reticle?**
**Bonus point for first person who can actually explain exactly wha the fatal flaw is in the tremor reticle?**
rubber - glue. (but shit you guys are original)
With modern tactical turrets the idea of “zeroing“ your rifle has changed. The real question is “where do I set my zero-stop.”. And the answer is : personal preference based on your shooting needs. There is no best answer like 100 yards or 500 yards
The way of “zeroing” your rifle has changed. The definition of a rifle zero at distance is whereWhat do you mean about setting zero stop at 100 or 500?
The way of “zeroing” your rifle has changed. The definition of a rifle zero at distance is where
POA=POI at that distance. Years ago we would sight in the deer rifle at 100 yards with POI two inches above POA. This permitted a center hold out to any feasible deer shooting distance. The scope was now “zeroed” (not really because POA did not equal POI) and not touched. Any adjustment of the old scope required the removal of the turret cap and a coin and a sharp whack to make sure the reticle adjusted. Of course, the MOA adjustment was seldom precise and repeatable. You didn’t touch the damn thing except to shoot a round or two before deer season to confirm the POI. YOU DID NOT PURPOSELY CHANGE THE ZERO. If you had to take an extended range shot, you held over.
Now fast forward to today with tactical turrets from March, Nightforce, Vortex, etc. The MOA or MIL adjustments on a quality scope are fast, repeatable, and precise. Of course, there will be a bad apple here and there but these top brands in general give what you pay for.
This has changed the meaning of “zeroing.” I do not zero my competition rifles at 100 yards. However, I do “sight in” at 100 yards to minimize the influence of environmental factors like wind and temperature. My zero-stop is set so that my POI=POA+10.75” at 100 yards which puts me at about a 500 yard zero with my load/rifle. For F-class I shoot 600, 800, 900, and 1000 yards period. The precise/final MOA elevation settings (DOPE) for these different distances are confirmed by shooting at those distances.
If you shoot PRS, steel, or another sport where your friends are comparing come-ups, then by all means set your zero-stop at 100 and you will have a common reference point to share data. Very seldom has a fellow competitor asked for my MOA on the gun. They will ask about the bullet, powder, jump, barrel, stock, trigger and shooting system, but not my DOPE. Maybe it happens but I haven’t seen it.
Nowadays, what we refer to as “zero” usually corresponds to where the zero-stop is set. This is an arbitrary decision and based only on the shooter’s needs. With today’s scopes, it is so easy to shift your trajectory and zero with just a fast turn of the turret. When you adjust the elevation knob you are changing the intersection between your line of sight (POA) and bullet trajectory—this is by definition changing the rifle zero. Remember, the definition of zero distance is where POA=POI. If you’ve done your homework and confirmed your dope at distance, you can go from a 100 yard zero to a 1000 yard zero in 10 seconds and you can trust the adjustment unlike my old deer rifle. Set the zero-stop and move the turret cap to correspond to the zero hash mark and it’s done.
You can set your zero-stop for a 100 yard zero if you want but that’s your personal preference not mine. I prefer to have it set at 500 since I have no need to dial back to a 100 zero When you are dialing you are changing your rifle zero by definition. My point it that it is personal preferenceThat’s literally what zero’ing at a 100 and dialing in a distance is.
No need to set it “X high at 100”.
For your example, just zero at 100 and dial in 500yds. Which is what we have been saying the whole time.
If for whatever reason you want to dial to 500 and slip the turret to zero, that’s fine. But it doesn’t do anything different.
That's a Klingon disruptor range finderIs the circled part the moon phase indicator? Because that begins to affect your drag factor for once you get out to 1200 yards or so
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I prefer to set my zero stop at minus 1/2 revolution, when possible. Just personal preference....with some reasons.You can set your zero-stop for a 100 yard zero if you want but that’s your personal preference not mine. I prefer to have it set at 500 since I have no need to dial back to a 100 zero When you are dialing you are changing your rifle zero by definition. My point it that it is personal preference
What scopes (other than NF) allow you to alter the number of click below "0" marking on turret (that are exposed turrets - not LPVO)? Ive heard of NF's changeable "clutch" deal-e-bop; but every other scope I know of (which is not huge Ill admit) only goes from (-0.3 to -0.5). I have a Razor 4.5-27.I prefer to set my zero stop at minus 1/2 revolution, when possible. Just personal preference....with some reasons.
MarchWhat scopes (other than NF) allow you to alter the number of click below "0" marking on turret (that are exposed turrets - not LPVO)? Ive heard of NF's changeable "clutch" deal-e-bop; but every other scope I know of (which is not huge Ill admit) only goes from (-0.3 to -0.5). I have a Razor 4.5-27.
Every single scope I have ever seen with a zero stop. The zero stop is set at the zero YOU set. So...what I do is zero the scope at 100, then dial a half rotation more and set the zero stop. I have never given a Vortex more than a first glance, can't help you there.What scopes (other than NF) allow you to alter the number of click below "0" marking on turret (that are exposed turrets - not LPVO)? Ive heard of NF's changeable "clutch" deal-e-bop; but every other scope I know of (which is not huge Ill admit) only goes from (-0.3 to -0.5). I have a Razor 4.5-27.
I hear ya, just to clarify though - your 100yd zero reads "0" on turret and (assume you have 10mil/rotation) you can then dial backwards 5mil?Every single scope I have ever seen with a zero stop. The zero stop is set at the zero YOU set. So...what I do is zero the scope at 100, then dial a half rotation more and set the zero stop. I have never given a Vortex more than a first glance, can't help you there.
My Swaro x5i has a slick deal where you pull on part of the turret and can then dial below your zero stop.
Every single scope I have ever seen with a zero stop. The zero stop is set at the zero YOU set. So...what I do is zero the scope at 100, then dial a half rotation more and set the zero stop. I have never given a Vortex more than a first glance, can't help you there.
My Swaro x5i has a slick deal where you pull on part of the turret and can then dial below your zero stop.
This isn't newsI hear ya, just to clarify though - your 100yd zero reads "0" on turret and (assume you have 10mil/rotation) you can then dial backwards 5mil?
ZCO, TT, Steiner, S&B, Zeiss - all have a version of 'changeable clutch?'
News to my ears, I wish that was more directly marketed!
Bingo!!Every single scope I have ever seen with a zero stop. The zero stop is set at the zero YOU set. So...what I do is zero the scope at 100, then dial a half rotation more and set the zero stop. I have never given a Vortex more than a first glance, can't help you there.
My Swaro x5i has a slick deal where you pull on part of the turret and can then dial below your zero stop.
Is the Razor zero lock same as the Viper PST gen 2? It can be tricked when setting the zero lock to give whatever "clicks" below zero you want.have a Razor 4.5-27.
razor gen 2 and 3 are .5mil below zeroIs the Razor zero lock same as the Viper PST gen 2? It can be tricked when setting the zero lock to give whatever "clicks" below zero you want.
I always put 3 tenth below zero to give some leeway for change in conditions/ammo.
Every single scope I have ever seen with a zero stop.
razor gen 2 and 3 are .5mil below zero
I have a Razor 4.5-27.
i can't think of any scenarios i needed more than half a mil below zero
Trying to figure out the wind was moving the bullet around a hell of a lot more than a few clicks difference in zero.Is your point to not worry about where your gun is zeroed, just go shoot it?
Side note: Id love to have that type of access to many targets and ranges to 1100yd, thats awesome.
GBPSE?Ive been a step below in the Leupold/Vortex arena
What IS your point?Is your point to not worry about where your gun is zeroed, just go shoot it?
Well since all my centerfires have 100 yard zeros and all my .22 have 50 yard zeros, its pretty easy to remember.My 6mm Creemoo really is zeroed somewhere around 160ish +/- yards because it gave a point blank range thingamabob out to about as far as I'm likely to shoot it. I don't know where most of my rifles are zeroed honestly. (who can remember all that? lol)
I need to read and learn the answers you've gotten here........ I prefer a 200 zero with my limited knowledge, believing it will pretty well hit anything under 200, as well as stretch to 250 or better, if we're talking CBM. And it's proven out fairly well when I'm shooting steels out to 500, the limit at my local range. Once a year at least, I visit an ELR range, and don't change the zero when I do.At what distance do you zero your bolt action rifle AND WHY?
(Mainly interested in people that use non-100yd zeros and dont shoot ELR - but still welcome all answers, should be enlightening)
If you do zero at 100yd now, but tried a different distance for awhile then decided to go back to 100yd: talk about why non-100yd zero made your life harder/why you went back to 100.
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EXAMPLE - a rifle used only to shoot at matches - You may decide to zero (center of reticle) at 300 and have your turret set at 3.0mil. When you shoot inside 300 you could hold in upper half at established DOPE. When shooting inside 700ish you hold/dial 0.1mil/10yd. Past 700 you dial in your DOPE.
Advantage being you can be quicker transitioning multiple mid range targets for majority of match play targets. Though the obvious comeback would be you know the distance to the say three targets you'll be engaging so you write those 3 numbers on your armband and its easier that way for you.
*But what if all of a sudden an 8" target pops up at an unknown range (like 583yd) and you need to hit it within ~15seconds? You mil it and get ~570-90. How would you tackle that?*
If you're wicked smart you may see the pattern and know to just add 0.8 to whatever your 500yd DOPE is. But Id wager not many people would know to do that under time.
Arshins, they are making a comebackMils or MOA? That's where this is going right?