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Vudoo Gun Works V-22 Rimfire Bolt Action

Finally got the Vudoo put together. 20” kukri barrel action, diamond 2 stage, manners TCS with a Vortex Strike Eagle. So far it’s a shooter, although the Midas + has been a let down.

As others have mentioned, it doesn’t balance, rail is full of weight and the rear weight has been removed. I think I will add an Area 419 brake to put some more weight out front. Haven’t weighted it but it’s heavy. Going to be full moving it around during our NRL22 match this weekend.

 
Finally got the Vudoo put together. 20” kukri barrel action, diamond 2 stage, manners TCS with a Vortex Strike Eagle. So far it’s a shooter, although the Midas + has been a let down.

As others have mentioned, it doesn’t balance, rail is full of weight and the rear weight has been removed. I think I will add an Area 419 brake to put some more weight out front. Haven’t weighted it but it’s heavy. Going to be full moving it around during our NRL22 match this weekend.


A few things you can do.
Ask Manners for the steel arca rail instead of the aluminum one.

Get the KSS ATS tuner, it's 8oz. A hellfire brake is only like 4oz.. or get both and then it'll be 12oz :)

The tuner at least will improve your groups, the hellfire brake 🤷
 
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Thanks. The steel rails are on back order, that was my first thought but will get one eventually. Good call on the tuner. Yea, the brake was more so for weight, nothing more.
 
I'm not trying to open a can of "rimfire cleaning" worms, but I have a question about the video Vudoo posted recently in regards to cleaning your rifle. Mike mentions not letting your brush extend all the way out of the barrel, just the tip, in fear of damaging the crown. I was always taught growing up to make sure the brush protrudes all the way out, in fear of the brissles doing damage when changing direction with the rod (? I guess) Is this just for brass brushes? Has anyone else heard this? Thanks for any input
 
I'm not trying to open a can of "rimfire cleaning" worms, but I have a question about the video Vudoo posted recently in regards to cleaning your rifle. Mike mentions not letting your brush extend all the way out of the barrel, just the tip, in fear of damaging the crown. I was always taught growing up to make sure the brush protrudes all the way out, in fear of the brissles doing damage when changing direction with the rod (? I guess) Is this just for brass brushes? Has anyone else heard this? Thanks for any input
i pull both ways with a brush in centerfire and rimfire

patches only go 1 way though
 
I must be the luckiest bastard around as everything feeds from all my mini chassis stocks. Centerfire AICS and rimfire. LOL Have had multiple Rem 700, Surgeon, Bighorn TL3(.308 and .223 bolt heads) and Vudoo in mini chassis and all feed great.

Same here. Multiple Manners stocks for R700 and Tikka footprints and never an issue. Just put together my Vudoo the same way I do centerfire my centerfire rifle and zero issues.
 
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i pull both ways with a brush in centerfire and rimfire

patches only go 1 way though
I was more referring to the location of the brush when pulling the rod back through. Mike specifically talks in the video about letting the tip of the brush poke out the end of the barrel, but not pushing it all the way out. I was always taught that you didnt want to change directions with the brush still inside the barrel
 
I know lots of people with this thought process. Both my factory CZ457 and RimX Bartlein start getting cold bore flyers after about 600-1000 rounds. Do you not have this issue?

People don't generally realize coldbore flyers because they zero their rifle and then it doesn't exhibit it again unless it doesn't get shot for a while.

But yes after a few hundred rounds on my Vudoo, I'll get a coldbore flyer for the first 2 shots as it's softening that carbon ring.
 
Here she is in all her glory 🤤 Picked her up tonight and assembled. Got the mags to all fit and feel nice and tight in the mag well. I’m happy with it!!

@littlepod you were way right about the balance, it feels much better with the 20” MTU barrel on it and almost balances perfectly.

Also my trigger pins were in with the action screws as well @Bradu
A3103FED-222C-4552-9D41-81B22B5064B2.jpeg
 
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I thought the same when I received mine. They were in the small bag with the action screws. Did you check that?

Didn't get action screws either which isn't a big deal since I already have some with my bottom metal. Also, just noticed the set screw for the bolt disassembly isn't there like in the video.
 
Didn't get action screws either which isn't a big deal since I already have some with my bottom metal. Also, just noticed the set screw for the bolt disassembly isn't there like in the video.

That’s very strange. If you bought it new from a dealer or gun store, I would give VGW a call tomorrow morning. I’m sure they will send you what you need. Hell, even if it was 2nd hand, I’m sure they would get you what you need.
 
That’s very strange. If you bought it new from a dealer or gun store, I would give VGW a call tomorrow morning. I’m sure they will send you what you need. Hell, even if it was 2nd hand, I’m sure they would get you what you need.

I bought it from Mile High and emailed them about the trigger pins. Was looking everything over and happened to notice the allen screw so I'll need to reach out to them. I was originally just looking to try to get it up and running by the weekend but looks like that isn't going to happen.
 
Finally got the Vudoo put together. 20” kukri barrel action, diamond 2 stage, manners TCS with a Vortex Strike Eagle. So far it’s a shooter, although the Midas + has been a let down.

As others have mentioned, it doesn’t balance, rail is full of weight and the rear weight has been removed. I think I will add an Area 419 brake to put some more weight out front. Haven’t weighted it but it’s heavy. Going to be full moving it around during our NRL22 match this weekend.


How does your mag fit your TCS? Does yours feed ok?
 
Here she is in all her glory 🤤 Picked her up tonight and assembled. Got the mags to all fit and feel nice and tight in the mag well. I’m happy with it!!

@littlepod you were way right about the balance, it feels much better with the 20” MTU barrel on it and almost balances perfectly.

Also my trigger pins were in with the action screws as well @BraduView attachment 7515787

Christmas for both of us!

Just installed the ZCO -

1609389460320.png
 
The question is, does bedding improve accuracy/precision to a significant extent if a Vuddo barreled action is bolted into a stock with aluminum pillars? Since words like significant are ambiguous to say the least, by significant I mean 0.050 MOA or more.

Since there have been no replies to said question several hypotheses are possible: (1). Everybody uses a chassis so the question is moot; (2). Everybody but me knows the answer and considers the question trivial; (3). Nobody knows the answer including me, which is why I asked the question.

Well, so be it. There is a sample of one that I know. @Tiger_Shilone bolted his Vudoo barreled action into an AG Composites stock with pillars and shot an 6x5 Challenge that is "good enough for me". So until there is evidence to the contrary I will follow his protocol.
 
I don't think bedding is going to help any significant amount when compared to today's chassis and Manners Mini Chassis which all hold the barreled action in the same place securely with no movement which is what you want. Some stocks with just pillars might do that but you would have to check to see if bedding or at least skim bedding is needed to hold the action. I think it's less significant in a .22 as there is not a large amount of recoil to make a shift as significant as a centerfire would.
 
The question is, does bedding improve accuracy/precision to a significant extent if a Vuddo barreled action is bolted into a stock with aluminum pillars? Since words like significant are ambiguous to say the least, by significant I mean 0.050 MOA or more.

Since there have been no replies to said question several hypotheses are possible: (1). Everybody uses a chassis so the question is moot; (2). Everybody but me knows the answer and considers the question trivial; (3). Nobody knows the answer including me, which is why I asked the question.

Well, so be it. There is a sample of one that I know. @Tiger_Shilone bolted his Vudoo barreled action into an AG Composites stock with pillars and shot an 6x5 Challenge that is "good enough for me". So until there is evidence to the contrary I will follow his protocol.

I guess the "significant extent" would be how well the chassis was machined to the exact same tolerances as the action, and given that machine tolerances stack you could have significant extent of gaps.

I see no harm in ever bedding, it's whether or not your time/effort is worth it. My Vudoo out of the box shoots in the .25" with 6x5 at 50 yards, and a .7" at 100 yards. I'm going to play with a tuner first
 
Well I guess we're ending 2020 with bedding and tuners. Everyone's dropping their suppressors and Midas isn't worth the extra over Center X.

I miss my suppressor but groups are better.

I don't think bedding is needed IF you're using a 'chassis' type stock.

I have more Midas than Center X and I should've just sent it to Lapua back in April.

Now I need to buy a tuner.

Happy New Year. 🤠
 
Well I guess we're ending 2020 with bedding and tuners. Everyone's dropping their suppressors and Midas isn't worth the extra over Center X.

I miss my suppressor but groups are better.

I don't think bedding is needed IF you're using a 'chassis' type stock.

I have more Midas than Center X and I should've just sent it to Lapua back in April.

Now I need to buy a tuner.

Happy New Year. 🤠

I have had my silencerco sparrow sitting in my safe for the past year... It will end up going on a fun light rabbit hunter thingy one day...

I'll let you know how the tuner goes, right now the .5lbs of weight at the muzzle is basically a cheap way of me getting "MTU" weight w/o having to rebarrel my Kukri vudoo.
 
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I don't think bedding is needed IF you're using a 'chassis' type stock.
That seems to be the consensus, and it makes sense. But it does make me wonder—people obsess over the proper technique for bedding so the action is not under stress, but there must be stress induced by the slight mismatches between a chassis and action? Perhaps stress doesn't matter if it's consistent? That would make sense too...
 
I don't think bedding is going to help any significant amount when compared to today's chassis and Manners Mini Chassis which all hold the barreled action in the same place securely with no movement which is what you want. Some stocks with just pillars might do that but you would have to check to see if bedding or at least skim bedding is needed to hold the action. I think it's less significant in a .22 as there is not a large amount of recoil to make a shift as significant as a centerfire would.
@Rob01:

If I may ask what is skim bedding?
 
That seems to be the consensus, and it makes sense. But it does make me wonder—people obsess over the proper technique for bedding so the action is not under stress, but there must be stress induced by the slight mismatches between a chassis and action? Perhaps stress doesn't matter if it's consistent? That would make sense too...

Not bedding solely because of chassis is some weird theory someone came up with and people have propagated.

The logic is only sound if the chassis is cut specifically to that brand/model (foundation for example is milled for specific actions). If it’s just a “700 pattern” then it’s now a game of maybes. Not all actions that are a 700 foot print are machines the same. For example, round vs gusseted actions.

.22’s will be less susceptible to needing bedding in general due to the reduced recoil.

I personally test my rifles. I torque everything down and then whack it around with a dead blow hammer. If the zero moves, I’ll toss another optic on and re-torque. Hammer on it again. If the zero moves again, chassis gets bedded.
 
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That seems to be the consensus, and it makes sense. But it does make me wonder—people obsess over the proper technique for bedding so the action is not under stress, but there must be stress induced by the slight mismatches between a chassis and action? Perhaps stress doesn't matter if it's consistent? That would make sense too...
@phlegethon:

Even if the match between the action and the chassis were perfect, the act of torquing the action screws would induce a non-uniform stress field in the receiver. The action screws induce a tensional stress in the receiver. A compressional stress in the receiver is created by the compressional of the pillars and the compression of any portion of the chassis in contact with the receiver. For an aluminum chassis that has mismatches with an aluminum receiver would definitely create a more non-uniform stress field than if perfectly mated. But, as you say, if receiver and chassis are firmly bolted together so the stress field doesn't change from shot to shot, then the non-uniformity created by the mismatch probably has little effect on accuracy/precision.

With stocks perhaps mismatches less importance if stiffness of the aluminum pillars is much greater than stiffness of the stock material.
 
Not bedding solely because of chassis is some weird theory someone came up with and people have propagated.

The logic is only sound if the chassis is cut specifically to that brand/model (foundation for example is milled for specific actions). If it’s just a “700 pattern” then it’s now a game of maybes. Not all actions that are a 700 foot print are machines the same. For example, round vs gusseted actions.

.22’s will be less susceptible to needing bedding in general due to the reduced recoil.

I personally test my rifles. I torque everything down and then whack it around with a dead blow hammer. If the zero moves, I’ll toss another optic on and re-torque. Hammer on it again. If the zero moves again, chassis gets bedded.
Great operational procedure. May I ask what is the tolerance for zero change before bedding?
 
Well I guess we're ending 2020 with bedding and tuners. Everyone's dropping their suppressors and Midas isn't worth the extra over Center X.

I miss my suppressor but groups are better.

I don't think bedding is needed IF you're using a 'chassis' type stock.

I have more Midas than Center X and I should've just sent it to Lapua back in April.

Now I need to buy a tuner.

Happy New Year. 🤠
Roger on sending it to Lapua.
 
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Great operational procedure. May I ask what is the tolerance for zero change before bedding?

For my vudoo, pretty much anything. I zero at 30yds. So if it moves much at all, I’m not happy.

I tend to be cautious and bed if there is any doubt. As it will either change nothing or help. No negative outcome.
 
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I just got an email from them. They are moving into a bigger shop. Phone calls and internet are not working properly. They will be up and running next week, bigger and better than before. I sure hope so. I have three rifles on order and one is way past due.
 
Hi there,

Received my new barreled action.
Just shot it on sunday. It shoots great in terms of accuracy but feels sticky in some spots and doesn't run smooth if bolt handle not in a sweet ''middle'' spot.
With and without ammo is the same. With and without mag is the same.
I assumed since it was new, running / lube it a bit the bolt would help, but just doesnt.

Is that standard? I read every where it is super smooth by my T1X is far better. Are we supposed to run the bolt very slowly or what?

I really want to love this rifle but it is just not smooth to cycle the bolt for now. Should I try to polish raceway with a litthe compound and a back and forth movement ( not closing the bolt ) ?

Thanks for your advices regarding this.
 
Hi there,

Received my new barreled action.
Just shot it on sunday. It shoots great in terms of accuracy but feels sticky in some spots and doesn't run smooth if bolt handle not in a sweet ''middle'' spot.
With and without ammo is the same. With and without mag is the same.
I assumed since it was new, running / lube it a bit the bolt would help, but just doesnt.

Is that standard? I read every where it is super smooth by my T1X is far better. Are we supposed to run the bolt very slowly or what?

I really want to love this rifle but it is just not smooth to cycle the bolt for now. Should I try to polish raceway with a litthe compound and a back and forth movement ( not closing the bolt ) ?

Thanks for your advices regarding this.

The sweet "middle" spot is basically where you have to be, I just learned to cycle my bolt properly and never have had any issues. I don't have any other suggestions. With such tight tolerances everything is fitting like a glove in the action, which I assume increases the accuracy a bit, but yes it's not a loose wobbly smooth action like my Tikkas.

Hasn't bothered me ever in a match though. Only if I'm OCD trying to gently analyze my bolt do I notice.
 
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Hi there,

Received my new barreled action.
Just shot it on sunday. It shoots great in terms of accuracy but feels sticky in some spots and doesn't run smooth if bolt handle not in a sweet ''middle'' spot.
With and without ammo is the same. With and without mag is the same.
I assumed since it was new, running / lube it a bit the bolt would help, but just doesnt.

Is that standard? I read every where it is super smooth by my T1X is far better. Are we supposed to run the bolt very slowly or what?

I really want to love this rifle but it is just not smooth to cycle the bolt for now. Should I try to polish raceway with a litthe compound and a back and forth movement ( not closing the bolt ) ?

Thanks for your advices regarding this.
When I got my first vudoo with the Gen 1.2 receiver, I was a little disappointed with the bolt throw. It was not as smooth as I would’ve expected and would kinda bind up. But after a while it was as smooth as my impact and couldn’t complain. My Gen 2 is very smooth though right off the bat. Oil your bolt lightly and run the bolt a bunch. It’ll break in and it’ll be smooth.
 
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A light oil lightly applied on the bolt body and a touch of grease on the locking lugs & cocking cam makes all the difference in the world. Also frequently clean the bore of the action and bolt body then re-lube especially when it is new (sub 1000 cycles).
 
I just got an email from them. They are moving into a bigger shop. Phone calls and internet are not working properly. They will be up and running next week, bigger and better than before. I sure hope so. I have three rifles on order and one is way past due.

That would explain why I can't get in touch with anyone to get the missing parts on the barreled action I picked up from Mile high. Rather disappointed to say the least...