Vudoo V-22S Single Shot BR/F-Class Action

#2,301
Riberac, to clarify, you are extracting from the chamber with no issues, but the ejection from the loading area is where your Eley spent case is not being thrown out of the loading area?

Anyone else have experience with this and can offer any solutions for Riberac?

Best regards,

RFS99
 
#2,303
Good evening Riberac.
The first thing I would do is make sure the Extractor Screw on the Bottom of the Action is secure. See pic below. This is of a Gen 1 Repeater, but they are in the same place...
If that does not fix it, I would expand your write up of what is going on. Take some pics. And send them to Vudoo.
Then call them. They will help.
All the Best;
4Certain

 
#2,304
I have had this problem on a 54 action Anschutz. and it was the extractor. This is the metal stop that protrudes up from the bottom of the action that the bottom of the case hits to push it out of the bolt nose. If it is too short it will not catch enough of the case to eject. My Annie was new also. The extractor was just too short . Replaced it and solved the problem. I'm not familiar with the Vudoo extractor and how it is held in place but I would check it and or replace it. Also, not pulling a unfired round from the chamber is common with chambers that allow the bullet to enguage the rifleing fairly deep. None of my benchrest guns will eject a unfired round!
 
#2,305
I would suggest you try "running" the bolt with some authority. If I don't run the bolt (when opening the bolt) with some authority, or force, the spent case will just end up laying on the loading ramp. You don't have to slam the bolt open but don't be lazy about it. A friend/match competitor has the same problem. I had/have the same problem with my Anschultz 64 action as well. Once I found the correct speed/force at which to run the bolt, problem basically went away.
 
#2,306
My V-22S is a bit lazy when it comes to flipping the spent case out of the ejection port. It helps some to run the bolt to the rear with some vigor, but it's not a 100% fix for the issue. Mine extracts the case with 100% reliability; if someone's having problems with extraction, it could be that the extractor slots weren't cut deep enough so that the extractor can get a good grip on the case rim. If cut correctly, there should be no more than about .005" between the edge of the chamber and the extractor slot.

Vudoo has been making a cut into the 3rd locking lug of the bolt on the Three-60 & V-22S actions to allow the bolt to travel a bit further to the rear before contacting the bolt stop; that provides more room for the case to be flipped out of the action instead of bouncing around and being left sitting backwards in the action. Neither my 1st V-22S nor Three-60 bolts have this cut, but the 2nd V-22S action that arrived a couple of months ago has been cut this way. I'll probably be calling for a RA so I can send the bolt out of the 1st V-22A back for the mod; haven't gotten the Three-60 barreled yet, and will wait until I get it up & running before worrying about the cut on that action's bolt.

Little Sister must be referring to the ejector when he's talking about having problems with the extractor. The extractor pulls the spent case out of the chamber, the ejector causes a case to pivot out of the extractor and be flipped out of the ejection port.
 
#2,307
I agree with you Jim! You have to work the bolt like you mean it. Mine does the exact same thing. If you work the bolt like you're afraid you'll break it, you're gonna wind up with the spent cartridge laying in the breech. The few issues I have had have been with ELEY ammo. Every so often the extractor has problems grabbing the spent cartridge. Never with Lapua.
 
#2,313
Ok. Dumb question, has anyone 'modified' the original v22 repeater aluminum bore guide to fit the v22s? Any pics? I have an idea what needs take off but don't want to ruin it
 
#2,314
Here is an indoor test with my V22s, of different brands of ammunition
R50, TENEX and Eley Match and Eley Match German, LAPUA M+ and Xact
the R50 is a lot that is at least 6 years old!!!
Tests with Tuner, without Tuner or with Tuner set to 12 ( 1/2 turn)
5 shots in each grouping
 
#2,321
McMillan also has McWoody molded-in pattern, which is similar, but with more vertical stripping instead of the horizontal of McWalnut. My most recent 20 Tactical on a bare M700 SA that I sent to LRI for their 5-axis blueprint work.
 
#2,323
GTI, I had a chance to visit OnTarget on Monday. Had a good testing session, but you are right, the benches are way too flexy. So, I am headed back this Friday to shoot another session. I had a prop that I made for shooting at Gat Gun, which will help at OnTarget. It's basically a one inch thick wood (pine) step replacement (from Menards), with foam attached to the bottom to minimize vibrations at Gat Gun. I think if I place the board to the right side of the bench at OnTarget, it should help a lot to stop the flexing of the plywood, given the thickness of the board. I'll take a pic or two and send it your way so you can see what you think. My board will set on top of the plywood (plywood/board/one piece rest/rifle), close to the right side where the support is best. I'll let you know how it works. The things we do to adapt to our environment...

Sorry, let's get back to the Vudoo thread now.

Best regards everyone...
 
#2,324
It's a Game Scout. Biggest difference between it and the Game Warden is that the latter has a wider forearm to allow the use of heavier barrels. Having been a long-time user of McMillan's tactical A3-5 & A5 stocks, I've grown to prefer the vertical pistol grips of these & Manners' T4A, EH1A, and PRS1T stocks.
 
#2,327
I asked on the Vudoo repeater forum but now would like to get the opinion of the single shot BR crowd. When cleaning your Vudoo: Are you using bronze brush or, like Vudoo advise, a nylon brush ? Not wanting to create a huge debate here, just want some informed opinions.
Thanks
Gilbert
 
#2,330

It's US (SAE), so .05 inch.

If you're asking because it doesn't seem to fit correctly and won't loosen the screw, I had that problem with a new Vudoo here... Vudoo had me send them the bolt and they loosened the problem set screw and replaced it with a new one and shipped it back to me, all under warranty. No problems since then with that rifle's bolt, or others.
 
#2,331
Gilbert,
I've used quality bronze bore brushes in all my custom 22RF barrels over the years, and have never had any reason to regret doing so. I don't use them often, as I wipe the bores of all the custom barrels after every range session - whether it's 10 shots or 100 or more - with patches wet with Ed's Red. I have several Vudoo rifles, repeaters as well as single shots, a Rem 40XB converted into a repeater to use V-22 mags, a RimX repeater, and a couple of CZ457s that I've re-barreled with Shilen ratchet bbls. I'm not about to try to keep track of how many rounds I've fired through each of those rifles, just clean them before putting them away. I can usually tell if there's any unusual fouling by the feel of the 1st patch through the bore, and if there's any doubt, an examination with a Hawkeye borescope will tell the tale. If there's some leading or carbon fouling, I don't hesitate to use a bronze bore brush wetted by Ed's Red. I don't need to brush these hand-lapped custom bores often - whether it's due to the regular cleaning I spoke of, or the quality of the bores' finish. OTOH, the bore of a used Win 52D that I bought last year seems to require brushing much more often, based both on the feel of the 1st patch and by what I see through the Hawkeye. It's got a good deal of reamer marks that the factory lapping only began to smooth out. As rough as this bore is when compared to the custom Bartlein, Benchmark, Broughton, Krieger, Lilja, and Shilen barrels on my other rifles, I'm not surprised. The other CMP-sourced 52D I have is a bit smoother, and doesn't seem to require brushing as often as this one, but they're neither as smooth as the bores of the two CMP 40XB rifles I've owned. Years ago, I traded a CMP H&R M12 to Mac Tilton for a nice used Anschutz 1611, and even though it had the blasted appearance on the lower half of the OEM bbl's bore from the throat to the muzzle, a simple wiping with wet patches usually cleaned it sufficiently to maintain accuracy.

I use a nylon brush occasionally in some of my 22RF rifles, and have nothing against them, but if I've got leading, I'm not going to mess around with a nylon brush - I'm going to put on a bronze one and git'r done.
 
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#2,332
Panther,
I had trouble loosening the striker/firing pin screws of my V-22S with a .05" allen wrench out of a Bondhus set - it wouldn't fit into the hex cavity. I wound up going to MSC's website and ordering a couple of Wera brand allen drivers in .05 size, and they both fit and easily allowed me to loosen the set screws to change springs. These aren't L-shaped wrenches, but are drivers, with a rotating top that I put my index finger onto to provide pressure to keep the driver tip down into the hex screw, and then use thumb & middle finger to rotate. Works like a charm, and - knock on wood - I've yet to round off or break any of the small Wera or Wiha brand allen or torx drivers - which is more than I can say for several of the made in China auto parts store tools I've bought.
 
#2,333
Flatland sir,
Thanks for your detailed answer.
I also have a few Annie 54 target rifles, one of them sports a Benchmark 3 grooves barrel. I recently bought a Vudoo repeater and I just bought a Vudoo single shot ( Bartlein barrel ).
Here is what I have been doing for years:
1- After each range visit: I use patchworm to pull 1 wet patch, followed by pulling 3 or 4 dry patches. I leave the bore with one last ballistol soaked patch to prevent any rust forming ( even though humidity is controlled in my safe- you never know ). Before shooting again, I will pass 2 dry patches.

2- Every 4 to 5 hundred rounds= I take out the bore guide and the one piece coated rod and do a deeper cleaning. 2 wet patches, followed by a few strokes of brushing ( bronze brush ), followed by wet patches and then 3 or 4 dry patches. I use rimfire blend and as a last patch, when bore is dried= ballistol.
What do you think of my regimen ?
Thanks
Gilbert
 
#2,334
Gilbert,
It sounds like your cleaning habits are similar to mine. I've yet to buy a can of Ballistol, though I've heard good things about it. I bought a bottle of Marvel Mystery Oil years ago, and have been using it as a final wipe after cleaning if it's going to be a good while before I can shoot the rifle again. I can't make any claims about MMO being any better than any of the gun-specific products designed to prevent corrosion; we have a fairly dry climate out here in western Kansas. But I will say that if I've got moderate carbon streaking in a CF barrel, saturating a bronze bore brush with MMO and then brushing the bore will always get a goodly amount of black crud out of the bore with the next wet patch. Maybe it's even a bit better than Ed's Red on carbon, but I wouldn't bet big bucks on that...
 
#2,336
I just take a mop, soak it 1/2 to 3/4 with Boretech C4 and insert it in the chamber about 1 to 1 1/2" and let it sit until I shoot again. It may be a day, 2 days or a week. It doesn't hurt it at all. When I'm ready to shoot I take a pellet soaked in Ronsonol and run it through, let the solvents evaporate and I'm good to go. It only takes around 5 rounds for the rifle to "come in". Have checked it many times with my borescope and have not found any carbon build-up. I might be crazy but it works for me...
 
#2,338
Thanks all for your advises.
As for the cleaning solution, I have been using Bore tech rimfire blend and also Boretech eliminator for the chamber as my dealer was out of Bore tech C4. It seems to work for me. I have been told that some people use a 50-50 mix of Kroil and Hoppes 9 but I am not sure it would give better results than the Boretech solutions that I am using and which have the advantage of being odourless.
Gilbert
 
#2,340

I've seen these but not sure if they are worth getting. Kinda scarey sticking brass fibers down the barrel and like you said what if it gets kicked into the trigger. I do use the regular vfg felt pellets and they seem to do good. The only points I've tried to make is that it's ok to use a bronze brush without worrying about killing your barrel.
 
#2,341
Anybody else using patchworm system for light cleanings. I like the idea of just a soft weedwhacker line in the bore. Of course I am very careful pulling straight and avoiding contact of the line and the crown. One thing though: Does the patch turn in the bore following the rifling using a patchworm ?
Thanks
Gilbert
 
#2,344
I do... I had started using one with my CZ457 since clearance for a boreguide because of the ejector is a challenge, and really like the simplicity of the patchworm concept for my other competition 22s.
 
#2,347
I have found that some jag diameters are too large to enter the chamber with the patch with reasonable pressure. I notice the jag I liked the best had more of tapered tip. I took my other jags and tapered those. To my surprise I found one in the group harder than all the others and could not be touched by a file. I don't think this jag could be good for the rifling in a barrel. My 2 cents
 
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