Was "House Hunting" ever an enjoyable experience?

You might want to look into acoustic options for interior insulation rather than standard fiberglass. When we did my buddies house, we used some sort of recycled cotton stuff. It doesn't insulate from heat and cold as well, but that's a non-issue on interior walls. Not sure what the price difference is, but it's a lot nicer to work with. I hate fiberglass insulation...
Not to impose but would you mind expanding your comment by chance?

Fiberglass is what I'm familar with and what I installed myself. If it isn't encapsulated and an absolute bitch and even when it's encapsulated, it isn't necessarily great to work with either but is easy to install. I also know they have a different color for potentially humid/damp rooms (green I think as opposed to yellow/pink?) but truth be told that's the extent of my experience.

I've looked into mineral wool, foam, and cellulose over the past few weeks with cellulose appearing to be the better of the options but admittedly, I don't have any personal experience with any of those products. I'm not too concerned with what's better to work with in a new build (not to come across as a dick) but that that's a 'them' problem who are building it, but I wouldn't want to "cheap" out when one option is $14 a foot and the other, arguably better option is say $16 a foot.

Is that what your getting at?

-LD
 
It matters little what I think, you are the one paying the freight, get what you want. Not what others think you should settle for or how they want things laid out. Building to code is total B/S to me as that is there to just protect the stupid. Build it code Plus at the minimum, or code ++ like my last one. You will never regret it. Cheaper to do right up front, than try to fix/improve it on the back side.
That's more than fair sir, and my apologies if I came across too 'forward' and 'put you on the spot' by directly replying to your previous comment. That was not my intention. The only reason I asked is you seem to have a good head on your shoulders and come across as someone that's been around the block and doesn't mind sharing their experience is all. I wasn't asking you to spec out the house, just was curious of your opinion if you've run into any of those options is all.

-LD
 
Random thoughts and questions.

Someone said patience up thread. Exactly you've waited this long...

Moving into a rental in a better area could definitely buy you some time.

Find a new builder to work with that will get you what you want.

Are you absolutely tied to the State, County, City, current job/s? Making a big change is hard, but it could be really rewarding. Would take a bunch of research and no small amount of luck, but sounds like you live in a shit area and have for a long time. Obviously we've all got our reasons for why we are where we are.
Fair question- personally I can likely move across the country in most states with my job. My wife on the other hand- not so much so while your comment is 100% valid- we are likely tied to about a 20 mile radius. Interestingly enough- the anchor is due to "silver handcuffs" aka a pension and not family reasons. But hey- appreciate you weighing in though and not knocking your suggestion in the slightest either.

-LD
 
That's more than fair sir, and my apologies if I came across too 'forward' and 'put you on the spot' by directly replying to your previous comment. That was not my intention. The only reason I asked is you seem to have a good head on your shoulders and come across as someone that's been around the block and doesn't mind sharing their experience is all. I wasn't asking you to spec out the house, just was curious of your opinion if you've run into any of those options is all.

-LD
Your A/O, wife & life style with dictate everything. Do not allow others to influence that. Are certain add on's & gingerbread worth the up front investment? Sometimes yes, sometimes no, as it all depends upon how long you will live there. If you are the average its 5-9 years. That number depends upon many things, including Murphy. Adding eye candy for a sale point is a gamble, as selling a middle of the road home sells much faster than either ends of same.
 
Your A/O, wife & life style with dictate everything. Do not allow others to influence that. Are certain add on's & gingerbread worth the up front investment? Sometimes yes, sometimes no, as it all depends upon how long you will live there. If you are the average its 5-9 years. That number depends upon many things, including Murphy. Adding eye candy for a sale point is a gamble, as selling a middle of the road home sells much faster than either ends of same.
Thanks again @Gunfighter14e2

-LD
 
If the hide/homeowners wouldn't mind, I'd like to run a few of the "options" we spec'd the other week and am still waiting for a quote on, I believe the below list is a good synopsis of some of the more 'outlandish' requests we asked for in the quote in a new build. Call me a fool if it's warranted, it'll only lead to a better outcome for us in the end with constructive criticism.

-I asked to be quoted for a steel/metal "class 4" roof (reasoning being that it'll last at least twice as long, likely provide an insurance discount, and reduce AC costs)
-I asked for a whole house fan- I grew up with these in my parents' house and apparently like metal roofs, that's not done with new builds these days
-I asked for one or two drains to be placed in the garage, also apparently an odd request
-I asked to quote me on a whole house/natural gas fed generator to be included seeing that they already have to run the lines/electrical box/ etc
-I asked for dual zone HVAC to be set up for a new build- can be done but not standard practice apparently
-I asked to insulate interior walls (as well as what type of insulation would be used) for the bedrooms & study
-I asked for the deck to be made out of composite materials (same reason as the metal roof), and that a rail be included on the front deck because frankly I'm clumsy and I believe is a valid safety feature.
-Opting for a NG water tank of 40g rather than an electric water heater of 60g (NG is far cheaper than electric here)

I've got pages of other 'upgrades' but those were the ones that seem to be the most unusual requests for the builder. Am I off the mark for asking for any of those in a new build or anything I missed if I've been on the 'mark' thus far?

-LD

New build? Ask for what you want. Quote will depend on if the builder really wants to do "whatever", or not. Go from there.

Prioritize your wants, ie if builder can give realistic quotes on most of your wants, some unrealistic quotes & a few no can do's.

Also, be realistic in your quote expectations for your area. $80 an outlet would be normal for our area (more actually) & $100 insulation per interior wall probably as well.

Figure around triple what it would cost you to do it yourself. Whatever it may be. Then there may be things that you might not even be able to do yourself in your area because .gov. Permitting & codes. Depends where & what.

Some things you simply wouldn't want to do post build. Dual zone/isolated HVAC systems as an ex. I wouldn't think anyhows.

Rip drywall to insulate & then refinish? Yah no. Pay the $ during the build. Regardless of how irksome it may be.

Whole home NG genset should be a "simple" post build instal for a competent contractor, if they've done them before. As an example. We have an 18KW NG Generac the previous owner had installed amidst the plandemic scam (1970's built home). IIRC it was a $$4 or 5K install (all in plumbing & electric + permits + inspections) + generator cost. No idea what the genset cost was at the time, looks like they cost ~$5K nowadays for similar models today tho. Call a few installers in your area to get an idea of all in pricing. If your quoted a bunch more by the home builder, consider doing it after the build - then put that mental "savings" towards one of the other add ons you really want.

Metal roof is a freaking' fantastic idea BTW! Never had one, wish tho...
 
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Not to impose but would you mind expanding your comment by chance?

Fiberglass is what I'm familar with and what I installed myself. If it isn't encapsulated and an absolute bitch and even when it's encapsulated, it isn't necessarily great to work with either but is easy to install. I also know they have a different color for potentially humid/damp rooms (green I think as opposed to yellow/pink?) but truth be told that's the extent of my experience.

I've looked into mineral wool, foam, and cellulose over the past few weeks with cellulose appearing to be the better of the options but admittedly, I don't have any personal experience with any of those products. I'm not too concerned with what's better to work with in a new build (not to come across as a dick) but that that's a 'them' problem who are building it, but I wouldn't want to "cheap" out when one option is $14 a foot and the other, arguably better option is say $16 a foot.

Is that what your getting at?

-LD

Rock wool perhaps? Interesting stuff with some great properties. Super easy to work with. A bit more expensive to a bunch more expensive than fiberglass, depending.

Working on insulating our garage. Rock wool in walls, fiberglass under roof.

Most likely with reflectix over all on the interior side, rather than drywall. Reflectix is bubble wrap sandwiched between silvery mylar.
 
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I live in the eighth house I’ve owned and just bought #9, a vacation/snowbird eventually retirement home.

We looked over 100+ Zillow ads and were in 30+ houses before she decided on this home.

The new place three fly away trips, 60+ Zillow and only 15 or so actually on the property.

I told her this snowbird house is the last, and if it doesn’t work out, then I’ll just come back here 100% and visit with her in the winter.
 
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I bought my first house on Long Island when I was 20yo. I had a good time while doing it. Interesting story here. When I started looking I was looking at 50k houses and interest rates were 18%. The house I bought, 49k first one I looked at, went in contract in August. The old man that lived there didn't want to close till December, no big deal to me.
During that 6 month period interest rates dropped to 9% and housing prices doubled. I had offers of 100k for the house. I kept it and moved into it.
Four bedroom two bath 2 1/2 car garage on 1/4 acre corner lot surrounded by the pine barrens. The good old days.
 
If the hide/homeowners wouldn't mind, I'd like to run a few of the "options" we spec'd the other week and am still waiting for a quote on, I believe the below list is a good synopsis of some of the more 'outlandish' requests we asked for in the quote in a new build. Call me a fool if it's warranted, it'll only lead to a better outcome for us in the end with constructive criticism.

-I asked to be quoted for a steel/metal "class 4" roof (reasoning being that it'll last at least twice as long, likely provide an insurance discount, and reduce AC costs)
-I asked for a whole house fan- I grew up with these in my parents' house and apparently like metal roofs, that's not done with new builds these days
-I asked for one or two drains to be placed in the garage, also apparently an odd request
-I asked to quote me on a whole house/natural gas fed generator to be included seeing that they already have to run the lines/electrical box/ etc
-I asked for dual zone HVAC to be set up for a new build- can be done but not standard practice apparently
-I asked to insulate interior walls (as well as what type of insulation would be used) for the bedrooms & study
-I asked for the deck to be made out of composite materials (same reason as the metal roof), and that a rail be included on the front deck because frankly I'm clumsy and I believe is a valid safety feature.
-Opting for a NG water tank of 40g rather than an electric water heater of 60g (NG is far cheaper than electric here)

I've got pages of other 'upgrades' but those were the ones that seem to be the most unusual requests for the builder. Am I off the mark for asking for any of those in a new build or anything I missed if I've been on the 'mark' thus far?

-LD
Metal roofs aren't worth it unless it's a "standing seam" type metal roof. I know all about long life screws ect.... but paying for the metal and ice/water then putting a million holes in the roof is not worth it. A quality shingle is significantly less amd will last a very long time. If you can spring for a snap lock/standing seam then that's a different story but id only do it for a house you intended to never leave, which it doesn't sound like this is the one but maybe I'm wrong there.


You aren't off for asking, but things aren't free. Things are expensive and the only reason to insulate interior walls is for sound. If the builders knows you are going to reject the additional cost then he's probably going to get tired of doing the work of pricing it out for you for no reason. "A new build" isn't "a custom house". You should have gone through all of this way before if it was a custom house with a plan review. If it's a production house you should know everything is going to be basic stuff and I'd bet it says exactly that in your contract.

Look I know it sucks, but try to understand something. EVERYONE wants the cheapest price on a house. You can't have the cheapest price AND all the expensive stuff. If you insulate a wall:
additional material must be gotten
Someone must go to the job site with this material.
Someone must install this material.
The builder must see to all of this in addition to his other responsibilities, then deal with whatever mess was left afte the house was cleaned or whatever....

Should those people not be paid for their work? Should your builder pay for extra stuff out of his pocket on your house?

At the same time, I do a very detailed plan review in order to get this kind of information and determine the wants ans expectations for the house by the owners. I then use all of that info for the estimate. It takes 3 or more hours (last one was 5). Then it takes many many more hours (average about 30-40l to get all the info, put it all in a spreadsheet, and type an estimate. This is in addition to having already met the owners on site, usually more than once, and numerous other calls ect).... this is all before I am paid a dime.

I'm a custom builder(a real custom builder) so it's a different thing, but all of this stuff is why other builders don't do what I do. It's a ton of work and there's lots of people who say they want this and they want that, when reality is they want a certain price. So you can easily do all of this and then they say "well that's a lot more than we planned on".... and you get nothing. You have put in more than 40 hours and spent gas and all of that, and you get nothing.

So the other option is to have a very basic house and a cheape price then upgrade everything. It's not how I roll, but I do understand why they do it.

I'd be happy to help you navigate if you'd like, or just get an honest opinion, just pm me. I know there's plenty of crappy builders out there just like everything else.
 
Metal roofs aren't worth it unless it's a "standing seam" type metal roof. I know all about long life screws ect.... but paying for the metal and ice/water then putting a million holes in the roof is not worth it. A quality shingle is significantly less amd will last a very long time. If you can spring for a snap lock/standing seam then that's a different story but id only do it for a house you intended to never leave, which it doesn't sound like this is the one but maybe I'm wrong there.


You aren't off for asking, but things aren't free. Things are expensive and the only reason to insulate interior walls is for sound. If the builders knows you are going to reject the additional cost then he's probably going to get tired of doing the work of pricing it out for you for no reason. "A new build" isn't "a custom house". You should have gone through all of this way before if it was a custom house with a plan review. If it's a production house you should know everything is going to be basic stuff and I'd bet it says exactly that in your contract.

Look I know it sucks, but try to understand something. EVERYONE wants the cheapest price on a house. You can't have the cheapest price AND all the expensive stuff. If you insulate a wall:
additional material must be gotten
Someone must go to the job site with this material.
Someone must install this material.
The builder must see to all of this in addition to his other responsibilities, then deal with whatever mess was left afte the house was cleaned or whatever....

Should those people not be paid for their work? Should your builder pay for extra stuff out of his pocket on your house?

At the same time, I do a very detailed plan review in order to get this kind of information and determine the wants ans expectations for the house by the owners. I then use all of that info for the estimate. It takes 3 or more hours (last one was 5). Then it takes many many more hours (average about 30-40l to get all the info, put it all in a spreadsheet, and type an estimate. This is in addition to having already met the owners on site, usually more than once, and numerous other calls ect).... this is all before I am paid a dime.

I'm a custom builder(a real custom builder) so it's a different thing, but all of this stuff is why other builders don't do what I do. It's a ton of work and there's lots of people who say they want this and they want that, when reality is they want a certain price. So you can easily do all of this and then they say "well that's a lot more than we planned on".... and you get nothing. You have put in more than 40 hours and spent gas and all of that, and you get nothing.

So the other option is to have a very basic house and a cheape price then upgrade everything. It's not how I roll, but I do understand why they do it.

I'd be happy to help you navigate if you'd like, or just get an honest opinion, just pm me. I know there's plenty of crappy builders out there just like everything else.
Appreciate the offer (sincerely). Please allow me a day to digest your response and I just might take you up on your offer.

-LD
 
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Metal roofs aren't worth it unless it's a "standing seam" type metal roof. I know all about long life screws ect.... but paying for the metal and ice/water then putting a million holes in the roof is not worth it. A quality shingle is significantly less amd will last a very long time. If you can spring for a snap lock/standing seam then that's a different story but id only do it for a house you intended to never leave, which it doesn't sound like this is the one but maybe I'm wrong there.


You aren't off for asking, but things aren't free. Things are expensive and the only reason to insulate interior walls is for sound. If the builders knows you are going to reject the additional cost then he's probably going to get tired of doing the work of pricing it out for you for no reason. "A new build" isn't "a custom house". You should have gone through all of this way before if it was a custom house with a plan review. If it's a production house you should know everything is going to be basic stuff and I'd bet it says exactly that in your contract.

Look I know it sucks, but try to understand something. EVERYONE wants the cheapest price on a house. You can't have the cheapest price AND all the expensive stuff. If you insulate a wall:
additional material must be gotten
Someone must go to the job site with this material.
Someone must install this material.
The builder must see to all of this in addition to his other responsibilities, then deal with whatever mess was left afte the house was cleaned or whatever....

Should those people not be paid for their work? Should your builder pay for extra stuff out of his pocket on your house?

At the same time, I do a very detailed plan review in order to get this kind of information and determine the wants ans expectations for the house by the owners. I then use all of that info for the estimate. It takes 3 or more hours (last one was 5). Then it takes many many more hours (average about 30-40l to get all the info, put it all in a spreadsheet, and type an estimate. This is in addition to having already met the owners on site, usually more than once, and numerous other calls ect).... this is all before I am paid a dime.

I'm a custom builder(a real custom builder) so it's a different thing, but all of this stuff is why other builders don't do what I do. It's a ton of work and there's lots of people who say they want this and they want that, when reality is they want a certain price. So you can easily do all of this and then they say "well that's a lot more than we planned on".... and you get nothing. You have put in more than 40 hours and spent gas and all of that, and you get nothing.

So the other option is to have a very basic house and a cheape price then upgrade everything. It's not how I roll, but I do understand why they do it.

I'd be happy to help you navigate if you'd like, or just get an honest opinion, just pm me. I know there's plenty of crappy builders out there just like everything else.
I'm interested to hear what a custom home builder thinks about the "Monopoly Framing" concept of home building. I've only recently become aware of the concept but it definitely sounds like a solid idea from a ground-up build standpoint. There is a builder in our area (Matt Risinger) that is pushing the concept of these ultra efficient home builds (using monopoly framing) and it makes a lot of sense to the untrained consumer. The reason I ask is we're considering building a casita on our property that would act as a sort of "off the grid" living space for the occasional natural disasters (freeze, brown outs, etc) as well as overflow living quarters.
 
Not to impose but would you mind expanding your comment by chance?

Fiberglass is what I'm familar with and what I installed myself. If it isn't encapsulated and an absolute bitch and even when it's encapsulated, it isn't necessarily great to work with either but is easy to install. I also know they have a different color for potentially humid/damp rooms (green I think as opposed to yellow/pink?) but truth be told that's the extent of my experience.

I've looked into mineral wool, foam, and cellulose over the past few weeks with cellulose appearing to be the better of the options but admittedly, I don't have any personal experience with any of those products. I'm not too concerned with what's better to work with in a new build (not to come across as a dick) but that that's a 'them' problem who are building it, but I wouldn't want to "cheap" out when one option is $14 a foot and the other, arguably better option is say $16 a foot.

Is that what your getting at?

-LD
What we used was recycled cotton insulation batts like this: https://www.buildwithrise.com/stories/cotton-batt-insulation-is-it-for-you
It looked like it was mostly shredded denim. Not sure about availability or cost differences, but compared to fiberglass, it was a dream to work with.
 
I'm interested to hear what a custom home builder thinks about the "Monopoly Framing" concept of home building. I've only recently become aware of the concept but it definitely sounds like a solid idea from a ground-up build standpoint. There is a builder in our area (Matt Risinger) that is pushing the concept of these ultra efficient home builds (using monopoly framing) and it makes a lot of sense to the untrained consumer. The reason I ask is we're considering building a casita on our property that would act as a sort of "off the grid" living space for the occasional natural disasters (freeze, brown outs, etc) as well as overflow living quarters.
Yeah. Matt likes to act as if he's invented things that have been around for a long time. That's an involved answer and it depends on the totality of the house and what your objectives are. I did one a fee years ago that I would take the Pepsi challenge with on efficiency for sure. Cost the owner 1.18/day to heat and cool. ( Alabama summer mind youm it's 104 now with 80% humidity ) However, if you look at the actual payback dollar for dollar, for that house, it's never going to get paid back. The owner wasn't solely focused on payback for every dollar he spent though , but most are and I am.

There's lots of techniques to do various tasks to achieve efficiency and efficiency is one of the areas that we really focus on and do better than likely everyone in our state. That said, just because you "can" create the most efficient home doesn't mean you should. It cost a lot of money to gain efficiency and if I can't get it back in a reasonable time line then I'm probably not going to do it. The whole house must be done with an objective to reach actual high efficiency not just one part. You should see the system we did on the roof of the house I mentioned. Absolutely crazy. It works and will forever but it cost a lot too
 
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I would like to add from personal experience on many building projects that insulating interior walls for sound is not all that effective. The drywall acts like a speaker cone and vibrates, the sound is transmitted by the studs to the other layer. You must break this connection. The way we always did it when someone wanted true silence was to build two walls back to back, studs staggered, not touching anywhere. Then the insulation was woven between the two walls. Probably overkill for most, just adding insulation does minimal.
 
Yeah. Matt likes to act as if he's invented things that have been around for a long time. That's an involved answer and it depends on the totality of the house and what your objectives are. I did one a fee years ago that I would take the Pepsi challenge with on efficiency for sure. Cost the owner 1.18/day to heat and cool. ( Alabama summer mind youm it's 104 now with 80% humidity ) However, if you look at the actual payback dollar for dollar, for that house, it's never going to get paid back. The owner wasn't solely focused on payback for every dollar he spent though , but most are and I am.

There's lots of techniques to do various tasks to achieve efficiency and efficiency is one of the areas that we really focus on and do better than likely everyone in our state. That said, just because you "can" create the most efficient home doesn't mean you should. It cost a lot of money to gain efficiency and if I can't get it back in a reasonable time line then I'm probably not going to do it. The whole house must be done with an objective to reach actual high efficiency not just one part. You should see the system we did on the roof of the house I mentioned. Absolutely crazy. It works and will forever but it cost a lot too
Our second home (Meritage build) was spray foam insulated exterior walls and roof (no fiberglass anywhere that I remember) so not technically a monopoly framed house, but it was damned efficient. The most amazing that is I could be in the attic, in Central Texas, mid summer 100º+, and not be dripping sweat immediately. I'd bet it was 80º in the attic when it's 105º outside.
 
I would like to add from personal experience on many building projects that insulating interior walls for sound is not all that effective. The drywall acts like a speaker cone and vibrates, the sound is transmitted by the studs to the other layer. You must break this connection. The way we always did it when someone wanted true silence was to build two walls back to back, studs staggered, not touching anywhere. Then the insulation was woven between the two walls. Probably overkill for most, just adding insulation does minimal.
Thats correct, you have to have a break. There's several ways to do that. There's isolation clips with hat channel that can be put on walls then there's a double wall with an air space, then there's also options waaaay beyond that. We did a basement where the guy was all about sound control and did all of the above. Double wall, Hatt channel (the correct type) with clips, and we did double sheet rock with the green slimy stuff for sound in between layers of sheet rock. You can also buy sound isolating sheet rock which has a layer in the center to do that. As with efficiency, it just depends on how far you want to go.

For true sound control, you must think of the room as being completely filled with water, then any place the room can "leak", you must address that.
 
We have been in this house 26 years. It was our first house and we have no need for another house. Bid on a couple of ten year old houses but came across a new neighborhood being built and bought this one that was a almost completed spec house. The city kind of built up around us.
 
The dawn is truly darkest before the day... as of this evening my bride and I are officially under contract for a house and should be officially homeowners within the next 4 weeks. A house went on the market on Saturday, we toured it Sunday, were the first to put an offer in on Monday- whelp it's ours now and we practically stole it.

The stars aligned, we found the right house with the right floorpan and were the first to make an offer and it was accepted. I'm still shaking with both anxiety and excitement but it's absolutely wild, both RE agents were shocked the seller was willing to take the loss on our offer but we jumped on it while the offer was fresh.

This likely won't mean much to most of you, but for everyone else- keep at it, you just might catch the right deal if you remain aggressive. I can't believe this is finally happening.

-LD
 
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I guess I'm the odd-ball out here, I really enjoy house hunting. Every time I've gone, I've had a blast. You gotta set yourself some rules though:
  • Don't look at anything way outside of your price range
    • That will just lead to disappointment
  • Don't have any expectations
    • Even the crappy houses you look at will be fun. You can goof on how bad they were.
  • Don't fall in love with any one house
    • This can lead to disappointment if you lose bidding
  • Plan a nice day around it
    • Look at interesting places to have lunch/dinner before or afterwards
  • Don't try to rush it
    • This is a surefire way to become miserable
You're spending the money here, you need to enjoy yourself. Don't buy something you don't like just because [reasons]. There are people that buy Toyota Camrys on purpose because [reasons] and they hate themselves, don't become the house equivalent of that.
 
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The dawn is truly darkest before the day... as of this evening my bride and I are officially under contract for a house and should be officially homeowners within the next 4 weeks. A house went on the market on Saturday, we toured it Sunday, were the first to put an offer in on Monday- whelp it's ours now and we practically stole it.

The stars aligned, we found the right house with the right floorpan and were the first to make an offer and it was accepted. I'm still shaking with both anxiety and excitement but it's absolutely wild, both RE agents were shocked the seller was willing to take the loss on our offer but we jumped on it while the offer was fresh.

This likely won't mean much to most of you, but for everyone else- keep at it, you just might catch the right deal if you remain aggressive. I can't believe this is finally happening.

-LD
Congratulations!
 
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I guess I'm the odd-ball out here, I really enjoy house hunting. Every time I've gone, I've had a blast. You gotta set yourself some rules though:
  • Don't look at anything way outside of your price range
    • That will just lead to disappointment
  • Don't have any expectations
    • Even the crappy houses you look at will be fun. You can goof on how bad they were.
  • Don't fall in love with any one house
    • This can lead to disappointment if you lose bidding
  • Plan a nice day around it
    • Look at interesting places to have lunch/dinner before or afterwards
  • Don't try to rush it
    • This is a surefire way to become miserable
You're spending the money here, you need to enjoy yourself. Don't buy something you don't like just because [reasons]. There are people that buy Toyota Camrys on purpose because [reasons] and they hate themselves, don't become the house equivalent of that.
This is all fantastic advice and completely agree. I appreciate you sharing it.

-LD
 
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The first house my wife (second one) and I bought together in 2009, we looked at probably 30 houses. At the time we were living in NJ and everything we could afford was either tiny or needed a complete rebuild. We ended up moving across the river to PA. 3 years ago we decided to move to NC. The market at that time was super hot, and the state has a stupid thing with "due diligence" money that the seller is under no obligation to return to you if you decide against buying the house. With the market being so hot, people were walking away from $10k or more. We ended up going with a new build so that we didn't have to make a due diligence offer. New construction in developments don't allow for much in the way of changes just because they have crews that slap them up quick....special stuff slows them down. After 2 years in the house we've been very happy....well insulated, no major issue besides a shower surround that was put up out of plumb (and corrected). After having lived in a 50+ year old house, it's actually nice to not have a list of projects just to maintain the house. I do miss my basement, but I don't miss the threat of water in it every spring when the ground gets saturated. LOL
Good luck in the new house!!
 
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