Yeah, the “suppressors are really quick now!” thing is just for individuals.
Trusts are still taking a while.
Trusts are still taking a while.
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View thread Contact supportIts all bs....i filed as an individual for all 3 and used the kiosk. Electronic, form 4 for individual, and still waiting. All they will say is "its in process". I'm a 30 year Paramedic....with absolutely nothing on my record. No idea what the problem is because nobody will say anything but "its in process". Finally wrote to my congressman last week to see if they could help.Yeah, the “suppressors are really quick now!” thing is just for individuals.
Trusts are still taking a while.
We have and have had several rifles built on T3 actions and have helped others in the process ranging from ultra light weight hunting rifles to PRS rigs and even F-Class rifles. None had issues with their Tikka actions. Then again ripping apart a well shooting tikka to get a doner action is hard to do. We come across shot out T3 rifles at a good price every now and then which makes it easy. I have had a few custom actions in the past and couldn't say they always impressed me meaning I wouldn't be sure if there is a noticeable improvement over a Tikka action.Here's a question for folks who've had background running Tikka T3X family actions, and custom actions. I'm looking for input from guys who've run both, and have thoughts on the trade-offs.
I'm looking to do a new build that will be a LW hunting/field rifle, around 6.5 - 7 lbs before optic. Maybe a Bartlein or Proof CF, MDT HNT26 chassis. Currently I'm all in on Tikka T3X bolt guns. I have production, and customized Tikkas, but Tikka is all I have. Since I'm a LH shooter, Tikka works great and I like the smoothness and reliability of their actions, the bolt throw, etc.
Should I use one of my existing T3X actions for the build? Or is it worth considering a custom action? I've been looking at the Terminus Apollo lite action, which looks interesting, gets good reviews here, and has a 60 degree bolt throw. But not really sure that I need all those deluxe features for this particular LW rifle that won't be used for comps or precision. Now that you can get pre-fit barrels for Tikka (Proof, Preferred, PVA, etc), the selling point of a custom action that you can get prefits and install yourself, is less compelling than it used to be.
I like this idea and makes sense. Sounds like the same kind of logic as tenons on a glue up.I know you probably haven't this resolve or solved.
In the future I would suggest a ringed nail cross drill thru the crack, side to side, trim the ringed nail short of the stock width and test fit multiple times. Buy a product called double bouble epoxy and a dental flush syringe. Make sure you either have a good bit of surgical tubing or small wood working quick clamps. Flush the crack with 100% alcohol multiple times and try to blow the excess out.
Once you have gotten everything together, you've drill the hole, now test fit it and do a dry run making sure you can close the crack up completely.
Once you are happy with your process and you're certain that you can make this happen. Place your stock outside in the direct sunlight for a hour or more, needs to get hot to the touch, not blister you hot, uncomfortable to hold hot. Now mix up two "kits" of double bouble, pour them into one of the flush syringes, with the stock still in the sun, inject the epoxy into the crack making sure you fill the hole drilled for the ringed nail. A little blue painters tape on either end with the stock laying on its side, fill the drilled hole, paying close attention to the weeping, it will let the bubbles rise to the top and will need to be monitored to keep the drilled hole full of epoxy. Once you have the crack injected and the drilled hole full, clamp or wrap the stock using the surgical tubing pulled extremely tight, now bring the stock into a cool area and the cooling effect will draw the epoxy in deeper.
Double Bubble is some great stuff, you just need to remember that the pot life on double bubble is 6-10 minutes. Clean up can be done with an Xacto with careful motions.
I say if you run and like T3X (me too) and aren’t building for competition, why get spendy?Here's a question for folks who've had background running Tikka T3X family actions, and custom actions. I'm looking for input from guys who've run both, and have thoughts on the trade-offs.
I'm looking to do a new build that will be a LW hunting/field rifle, around 6.5 - 7 lbs before optic. Maybe a Bartlein or Proof CF, MDT HNT26 chassis. Currently I'm all in on Tikka T3X bolt guns. I have production, and customized Tikkas, but Tikka is all I have. Since I'm a LH shooter, Tikka works great and I like the smoothness and reliability of their actions, the bolt throw, etc.
Should I use one of my existing T3X actions for the build? Or is it worth considering a custom action? I've been looking at the Terminus Apollo lite action, which looks interesting, gets good reviews here, and has a 60 degree bolt throw. But not really sure that I need all those deluxe features for this particular LW rifle that won't be used for comps or precision. Now that you can get pre-fit barrels for Tikka (Proof, Preferred, PVA, etc), the selling point of a custom action that you can get prefits and install yourself, is less compelling than it used to be.
My T3X Lite measures .630 at the muzzle.Hello all, I currently love my Tikka T1x .22 ….. but I’m trying to select a T3X in .223 caliber that will qualify for the “Sporter Center Fire” class in the clubs that I shoot at - the maximum muzzle outer diameter of the class is 3/4” ( .750”). Can anyone advise the muzzle diameters of their;
1) T3x Compact JRTXE312C or
2) T3x LITE JRTXE312 ?
Thanks All !
Thanks dmentzer ! Can anyone advise for the T3x Compact JRTXE312C ? Much appreciated !My T3X Lite measures .630 at the muzzle.
I bet that rifle is fun to shoot. The more you shoot that stock the more hooked you get. I know we designed the E-Tac but even so it puts a smile on my face every time I get behind one. Ever tried 75ELDM's for longer range in her? My T3 and 22-250 loves them.Current iteration of my T3x build
Specs:
223ai 8 twist 28" Krieger Heavy Varmint by PR Precision w/ Heathen brake
PSE Composites Etac w/aics dbm and Tactical Evo adjustable buttpad
MDT 20 MOA rail bonded to receiver
MDT 30mm Elite rings NXS 5.5-22X50
Shooting the 52 smk. Who needs bc if you launch them at ~3700fps? Shooting at or under half moa for 10rd groups to boot.
@ejg represent![]()
great stock
I was worried this barrel wouldn't clear but it does it fine. It's too easy to shoot honestly. It's all I can do to slow down and not rattle through all my ammo. Therefore I load only 40 at a time for each session.I bet that rifle is fun to shoot. The more you shoot that stock the more hooked you get. I know we designed the E-Tac but even so it puts a smile on my face every time I get behind one. Ever tried 75ELDM's for longer range in her? My T3 and 22-250 loves them.
edi
Thank You David - much appreciated !My 20” tikka factory barrel in 243 is 0.648” at the muzzle.
I’m 95% sure they are the same.
Nice rig.
It's a 20 inch Proof.Nice rig.
Is that Carbonsix barrel?
Buy an Atlasworx or Mountain Tactical AICS bottom plate and run the AICS metal mags. They Catch Up 74,00mm / 2,91"Apologies if this has already been addressed, but search didn't bring it up.
Anyways, currently have a T3 Lite (not T3x in case anything changed) in 308 with the factory plastic single stack "M sized" magazine. As many realize - the magazine forces rounds to be relatively short but after measuring, headspace allows much longer rounds. Initial testing shows "worth it".
So, looking to be able to seat rounds a little further out while still using factory T3L plastic single stack magazines.
1. Can I get the M+ sized magazines (for 6.5CM) and get away with not swapping the bolt stop?
2. If bolt stop needs to be swapped, between the M+ sized vs the L sized magazine, is one going to work significantly better (feeding, reliability, etc.) with a 308 or similarly sized round?
3. Is the flush or extended mag more reliable at this size, if there's a difference at all.
Looks nasty. I have to say I haven't seen galling as excessively spread along the threads as that example.Here’s some pics of the uncleaned action immediately after barrel removal. I think I had only wiped it out the best I could with a paper towel at this point.
Perhaps this will help the post-mortem.
View attachment 8439533View attachment 8439534View attachment 8439536View attachment 8439535
What did you think of the Super Varmint? Think I’m fixing to go that route.I recently received my Tikka T3x Super Varmint. I’m planning to build a 1,000m rifle with a MDT ESS chassi. I bought the lower chassi part and stock, and also a couple of the hand guard .
I tried to remove the picatinny rail from the rifle, since the MDT rail is needed with the full rail hand guard. But it seems impossible the loosen.
I’ve read about rails that need some heat to remove. But I wanted to ask if it’s possible to remove the rail at all on the Super Varmint, since someone said it’s integrated (milled) into/with the received.
But if it’s part of the milled receiver,
It’s seems a bit unnecessary having the screws on the rail…
View attachment 8455352
"Can I pet that Dog !?"Can say this; no stranger will touch the rifle with that dog on guard.
Interesting! Good tip.Looks nasty. I have to say I haven't seen galling as excessively spread along the threads as that example.
There is something you could try though.
Years ago, I worked in a factory where everything was either 304 or 316 SS. Was a real PITA working on anything & everything with a thread. What we worked out was that you can apply too much ant-seize. After speaking to a Stainless Steel guru about the issues we were having with galling threads with anti-seize on them, he told us that there can be too much anti-seize from the perspective of heat retention & pressure, (more heat created). Heat is the main enemy of 316 SS & too much anti-seize creates a situation whereby the heat of friction is retained & in some cases amplified in small surface areas.
What we ended up doing was to heat the male threads, where possible, to 100 to 200 c. Just hot enough to make the anti-seize melt instantaneously & smoke a little on contact. This causes the anti-seize to spread very thinly & evenly over the surface of the threads with no build-up. Just a beautiful even, thin coating. Allow the part to cool completely before assembly.
I won't say this stopped 100% of issues but, our lives became a lot easier & frustration free, for the most part.
Nice rifle what stock is it?
Have you tried the pse etac ultra light? It is supposed to be really nice.KRG bravo that I painted myself.
Tried everything else but the manners LRH (not available for tikka) and I keep going back to the bravo.
the forend is much flimsier than the bravoI really recommend to have a Look at MDT Field Stock, now regularly on MDT's Website. Also for Tikka T1X
Well, this might be true. Didn't test the Bravo yet. But it is a lot less flimsier than the Bifrost.the forend is much flimsier than the bravo
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308 built by Top Gun Custom Rifles in Spokane
i have a super varmint Tikka 224 & 5.56 caliber wonder if i can get magazines for longer bullets?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
the forend is much flimsier than the bravo
Nice!Got the 223 Super Varmint in today. Bolt is much smoother than a Weatherby I played with at the lgs the other day. Took the black additional hand guard off, added a Mountain Tactical Arca rail in its place. Topped it with a Tenmile 3-18x44 in some Hawkins rings. Finished it off with the Omega since it’s the smallest footprint can I have.View attachment 8461322
Lefty, once again a Co. figures it's not worth the investment costs to offer a LH version . And did you catch the note, may only work with our $$$ chassis's ?Krg midas triggers back in stock if you need one.
What are you trying to accomplish with changing the trigger? You already have a 2 stage trigger.Lefty, once again a Co. figures it's not worth the investment costs to offer a LH version . And did you catch the note, may only work with our $$$ chassis's ?
I'm getting tired of pussing the the OME trigger with the spring replacement on my TAC 1, come cooler weather I'll probable offer it for sale to my club and start from scratch w/ a LH custom action that takes 700 style triggers.
For the love of god, please remove that sling stud under the stock.
Will do.For the love of god, please remove that sling stud under the stock.
I won't be able to sleep tonight after noticing that.
Was the first thing I removed on the Field Stock and replaced it by a QD flush cupFor the love of god, please remove that sling stud under the stock.
I won't be able to sleep tonight after noticing that.