I just used whatever blade it came with, I think it's a Hitachi. put the blade speed as high as it would go and went slowly.
AT-X Action with bolt and trigger - 1378g 3.03lbs
Forend and lower section with grip and all bolts - 1210g 2.66lbs
Butt stock and fixed adapter - 968g 2.13lbs
15 lbs 3oz if i remember correctly from last 2 hunter matches.
Mark 5, badger comm mount, lw double pull, proof 24” carbon barrel and sco harvester.
Are you kidding? SB over japanese every freaking time brah.... Tbh the 520 us is probably one of the most versatile badass scopes ever made with dtii turrets. Image isn't as great obviously as a full size scope but the size to performance is hard to beat. I doubt I will ever sell my 520s
I used a dremel with a cutting wheel. I just cut it pretty close, then used a file and finished it with a very small fine file. Looks just as good the original skins.
And I'm no pro with that Drexel, I've only used it maybe 5 times before. As long as you are decently mechanically inclined, you'll do fine. Just take your time.
Definitely needs to be shorter but I like short barrels for my use. It wonder if that part of the chassis is available or if it is interchangeable with the r700 short forend
What an idiot. Who would do such a thing.
#brownglass #whatstracking #warrantyonspeedial
Or
#perfectio! And that #ranginguterusgoesgreatwiththoseuprightvirilitydicKs
Or
#perfectio! And that #ranginguterusgoesgreatwiththoseuprightvirilitydicKs
Even with 24-26” barrels i prefer shorter forends; balances better without autistic amount of weights
Holy shit blast from the past. I can hear it in my head. What skit and what show again? Escapes me…
It smells like not AI in here. Get that poors stuff out of this thread.
Well I grabbed a 4306 and slapped it on. Yeah it’s pretty sweet - when I was 17 I always wanted an AI with a SB on it so I guess that ticks it off the list.
All set!
AWM in 300WM / 338LM / 300NM
AWM in 300WM / 338LM / 300NM
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Got the TT back from service and redid my barricade. All in all a good weekend.
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New to the forum so don't know where else to post this. Have an AXSA and I am trying to remove the buttstock from the chassis. Tried with heat but the screw for the flushcup and 1 of the screws closest to the action is completely stuck. Anyone have any idea on how to get rid of it?
More heat, good quality wrenches - never had one that I couldnt get off.
That head is toasted so a few options
You can get a small bolt extractor and drill a pilot hole, and the thread in the LH extractor and take it out with the help of the heat gun.
You can also drill it out in drill size increments to the point that you can use a needle plier to pull the threaded chips away and then you re-run the same spec tap thru to clean up the threads
You can just drill oversize and install a helicoil
Also spot weld a spud/small diameter threaded rod or a nut to it and take it out that way.
Or use a small disk on a rotary tool and turn it into a flathead bolt and go that route.
On all of the above (except A and C, apply kroil or your favorite penetrative oil, just mindful of applying heat after applying the oil.
You can get a small bolt extractor and drill a pilot hole, and the thread in the LH extractor and take it out with the help of the heat gun.
You can also drill it out in drill size increments to the point that you can use a needle plier to pull the threaded chips away and then you re-run the same spec tap thru to clean up the threads
You can just drill oversize and install a helicoil
Also spot weld a spud/small diameter threaded rod or a nut to it and take it out that way.
Or use a small disk on a rotary tool and turn it into a flathead bolt and go that route.
On all of the above (except A and C, apply kroil or your favorite penetrative oil, just mindful of applying heat after applying the oil.
Heat and a decent hex bit should be all you need.
The key is to not mess up the head, as once you've slipped/stripped the head you are in screw extractor/drill it out territory.
If you have a impact driver could be worth giving that a go, with heat obviously.
Always helps with stubborn bolts / screws , to take a hammer and tap on the socket/allen/torx a few hundred times
if all else fails looks like you can just drill the whole works out on the one above.
if all else fails looks like you can just drill the whole works out on the one above.
I've always had very good luck with left handed drill bits. Drill your way in then angle the drill so the side of the bit can really grab onto the side of the hole you're drilling and it should thread right out (with heat to defeat the adhesive obviously). If it doesn't work, well hey you're already drilling out the bolt.
So that was originally the plan. Until I was doing my ELR train up. The parallax knob was shifting under the 300PRC recoil. Didn’t do that with 308.
So I sent it in the Monday after the match. Wanted it ready before entering the end of season match schedule.
Friend needed to borrow a rifle so it was good to get the AT out again at yesterday’s WAR rifles match
And unlike most PRS guns, the AI is indeed a war rifle.
-Pew pew pew kapow pew bang kaboom pew pow!
“Shooter I have you for zero.”
-Fuck.
In my second PRS match, in quite a bit of rain, after I tanked a stage where I couldn’t see my misses and wasn’t mature / experienced enough to have a plan for this, a very kind RO came up to me and said “Your shooting was extremely consistent — it was consistently one mil low.”
-Stan
