Accuracy International Picture Thread

I want to shorten my atx chassis; one of these days!
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Are you kidding? SB over japanese every freaking time brah.... Tbh the 520 us is probably one of the most versatile badass scopes ever made with dtii turrets. Image isn't as great obviously as a full size scope but the size to performance is hard to beat. I doubt I will ever sell my 520s

Well I grabbed a 4306 and slapped it on. Yeah it’s pretty sweet - when I was 17 I always wanted an AI with a SB on it so I guess that ticks it off the list.

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New to the forum so don't know where else to post this. Have an AXSA and I am trying to remove the buttstock from the chassis. Tried with heat but the screw for the flushcup and 1 of the screws closest to the action is completely stuck. Anyone have any idea on how to get rid of it?
 
New to the forum so don't know where else to post this. Have an AXSA and I am trying to remove the buttstock from the chassis. Tried with heat but the screw for the flushcup and 1 of the screws closest to the action is completely stuck. Anyone have any idea on how to get rid of it?
Pics of the exact screws.

LH Tap is always an option.
 
That head is toasted so a few options

You can get a small bolt extractor and drill a pilot hole, and the thread in the LH extractor and take it out with the help of the heat gun.

You can also drill it out in drill size increments to the point that you can use a needle plier to pull the threaded chips away and then you re-run the same spec tap thru to clean up the threads

You can just drill oversize and install a helicoil

Also spot weld a spud/small diameter threaded rod or a nut to it and take it out that way.

Or use a small disk on a rotary tool and turn it into a flathead bolt and go that route.

On all of the above (except A and C, apply kroil or your favorite penetrative oil, just mindful of applying heat after applying the oil.
 
Thank you, that's what I was afraid of. Would you reccomend the same route on the smaller screw (that connects to the flushcup)?
Heat and a decent hex bit should be all you need.
The key is to not mess up the head, as once you've slipped/stripped the head you are in screw extractor/drill it out territory.

If you have a impact driver could be worth giving that a go, with heat obviously.
 
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Always helps with stubborn bolts / screws , to take a hammer and tap on the socket/allen/torx a few hundred times


if all else fails looks like you can just drill the whole works out on the one above.
 
I've always had very good luck with left handed drill bits. Drill your way in then angle the drill so the side of the bit can really grab onto the side of the hole you're drilling and it should thread right out (with heat to defeat the adhesive obviously). If it doesn't work, well hey you're already drilling out the bolt.
 
Most likely there is epoxy on the threads of the screws…
I use MAPP gas , a block of wood and a big hammer to debond everything.

Heat it until it smokes and smells like burning hair.

Don’t freak out if the shiny aluminum frame goes flat when it’s hot. Just smear oil on it after it cools. It’ll be shiny again.

Use a good 3mm allen socket to remove the screws. Wait until you heat everything up to remove them. They probably have epoxy on the tapered head and on some of the threads.

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He just wanted to have them give it a once over... No specific incident.
What pray tell happened to the tt?


So that was originally the plan. Until I was doing my ELR train up. The parallax knob was shifting under the 300PRC recoil. Didn’t do that with 308.

So I sent it in the Monday after the match. Wanted it ready before entering the end of season match schedule.
 
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-Pew pew pew kapow pew bang kaboom pew pow!

“Shooter I have you for zero.”

-Fuck.
In my second PRS match, in quite a bit of rain, after I tanked a stage where I couldn’t see my misses and wasn’t mature / experienced enough to have a plan for this, a very kind RO came up to me and said “Your shooting was extremely consistent — it was consistently one mil low.”

-Stan
 
In my second PRS match, in quite a bit of rain, after I tanked a stage where I couldn’t see my misses and wasn’t mature / experienced enough to have a plan for this, a very kind RO came up to me and said “Your shooting was extremely consistent — it was consistently one mil low.”

-Stan

That's exactly what he should have done and every one else on your squad if you are new
 
Pray tell, what is that little mini-bag looking thing you're running on the ol' whale hump there?
That’s G56 classified sir.

…but also discontinued. It is essentially a padded skid pad that Velcros on. Really great for tight portholes and when you don’t need a bag but want hard on soft