Accuracy International Picture Thread

my AXSR forearm just came loose after a short ride in the sxs and 5 rounds of 300nm. oddly enough, 4 of 5 rounds were clustered in a sub 1/4MOA knot and the other was 1/2" away. i didn't notice til i was trying to get this 338U SR unstuck.

per manual, i tightened the two hex screws to 45 in/lbs. feels solid again, but how long til it comes loose again? are there more than just these 2?

are you guys putting loctite or something on these screws?
 
my AXSR forearm just came loose after a short ride in the sxs and 5 rounds of 300nm. oddly enough, 4 of 5 rounds were clustered in a sub 1/4MOA knot and the other was 1/2" away. i didn't notice til i was trying to get this 338U SR unstuck.

per manual, i tightened the two hex screws to 45 in/lbs. feels solid again, but how long til it comes loose again? are there more than just these 2?

are you guys putting loctite or something on these screws?

This is the kind of thing that makes me want to just stick with my AT’s. There’s just too many screws on these newer chassis for my liking.
 
my AXSR forearm just came loose after a short ride in the sxs and 5 rounds of 300nm. oddly enough, 4 of 5 rounds were clustered in a sub 1/4MOA knot and the other was 1/2" away. i didn't notice til i was trying to get this 338U SR unstuck.

per manual, i tightened the two hex screws to 45 in/lbs. feels solid again, but how long til it comes loose again? are there more than just these 2?

are you guys putting loctite or something on these screws?
Loctite on every screw would be my suggestion
 
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my AXSR forearm just came loose after a short ride in the sxs and 5 rounds of 300nm. oddly enough, 4 of 5 rounds were clustered in a sub 1/4MOA knot and the other was 1/2" away. i didn't notice til i was trying to get this 338U SR unstuck.

per manual, i tightened the two hex screws to 45 in/lbs. feels solid again, but how long til it comes loose again? are there more than just these 2?

are you guys putting loctite or something on these screws?
Never had an issue with my forend loosening, and I put em to 35in/lb. The only bolt on mine that has come loose is the fuckin cheek riser bolt. Torqued down and witness marked. Still loose. Put a drop of blue loctite like 3,000rds ago (guesstimated without looking in the maintenance book) and zero issues with slippage.

Maybe a full clean/degreasing of the threads and bolts is needed? Try that. If still loosening, just pop a drop of blue loctite, pop some witness marks, and send it.

And a friendly reminder…go flush your trigger with lighter fluid. Friends don’t let friends not flush their AXSR triggers.
 
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That’s some @BurtG stuff right there
My advice to @BurtG is always TIG weld. Well, now that I think about it, Burt is more of a MIG stick weld kinda guy.

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my AXSR forearm just came loose after a short ride in the sxs and 5 rounds of 300nm. oddly enough, 4 of 5 rounds were clustered in a sub 1/4MOA knot and the other was 1/2" away. i didn't notice til i was trying to get this 338U SR unstuck.

per manual, i tightened the two hex screws to 45 in/lbs. feels solid again, but how long til it comes loose again? are there more than just these 2?

are you guys putting loctite or something on these screws?
Just put more tq on it.

45in might work.

Rail came off once at a match, i just cranked till they stoped. Done
 
Looking for a Proof CF 308 20" AI-M27, PM me if you have a NIB or clean low round count you're looking to unload.
1300 rounds. But it’s a 308

 
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Had a problem with the AXMC yesterday.
Got a few "clicks" when I was expecting a "bang"
It was like the firing pin was getting stuck in the bolt body and not going all the way forward, but then also would not go past half-cocked until I moved the safety to the middle position, ran the bolt, and then moved it back to fire.

Imma clean it to see if that helps but is there anything else that I should be looking at?
 
Had a problem with the AXMC yesterday.
Got a few "clicks" when I was expecting a "bang"
It was like the firing pin was getting stuck in the bolt body and not going all the way forward, but then also would not go past half-cocked until I moved the safety to the middle position, ran the bolt, and then moved it back to fire.

Imma clean it to see if that helps but is there anything else that I should be looking at?
On my AT, if I pierce primers , fragments will find their way into the bolt body and I will have the same problem. I would just pull your firing pin/spring assembly out of the bolt body and then dump out whatever is in your bolt and see what you have.
 
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On my AT, if I pierce primers , fragments will find their way into the bolt body and I will have the same problem. I would just pull your firing pin/spring assembly out of the bolt body and then dump out whatever is in your bolt and see what you have.
Winner Winner.

I wasnt even checking for blown primers yesterday but sure enough little primer bits came out of the bolt body.

6.5 Creedmoor Norma 130 match. I was using the LFP because that ammo uses large primers, but I guess I'll switch back to the SFP 🤷‍♂️
 
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Winner Winner.

I wasnt even checking for blown primers yesterday but sure enough little primer bits came out of the bolt body.

6.5 Creedmoor Norma 130 match. I was using the LFP because that ammo uses large primers, but I guess I'll switch back to the SFP 🤷‍♂️
Yep, same happened to me a long time ago. Pulled the pin assembly out, dumped out a couple of primer discs, and back to working again.
 
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The AX is back to her original self. Spent a short stint in an atx chassis but I missed the old school classic look. Shooting tiny groups like always with the only 6.5 worth owning, 6.5x47L
 

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The AX is back to her original self. Spent a short stint in an atx chassis but I missed the old school classic look. Shooting tiny groups like always with the only 6.5 worth owning, 6.5x47L
I gotta say I think 6.5x47 is my favorite caliber. You can't load that thing wrong. I regret resizing everything I have to 6x47. 6x47 is still nice but not as idiot proof as 6.5x47. Fun fact, first match with a 6.5x47 was also the first match I won an open class match.
 
I gotta say I think 6.5x47 is my favorite caliber. You can't load that thing wrong. I regret resizing everything I have to 6x47. 6x47 is still nice but not as idiot proof as 6.5x47. Fun fact, first match with a 6.5x47 was also the first match I won an open class match.
That’s even factory 139 scenar ammo. Picked up a couple boxes till I get time to reload in a few weeks.
 
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That’s even factory 139 scenar ammo. Picked up a couple boxes till I get time to reload in a few weeks.
If it helps... this was with varget out of a 26" barrel (possibly 24, it's been a while). 130eldm, 140smk and 142smk. The 130 didn't hold together at 800 and I ran the 142smk at 36.8. Those targets are 1/2"

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In case anyone is looking for a pale brown Cerakote color match this is what I came up with. (Grip section and trigger guard are home brew color)

H-199 ratio 13/32 about 40%
H-265 ratio 13/32 about 40%
H-187 ratio 6/32 about 18%

catalyst 15:1

My mixture was
13.5G of 199 and 265
6G of 187
Total of 33 plus 1.67G of catalyst.

Hope this helps someone as there’s no info on it out there.
 

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Recently traded my at-x chassis for the at & vision combo that was listed on here.

Weight was a concern since i mostly shoot hunter matches. Looks like i should be good with my harvester back on and maybe the nv bridge pulled.
Looks great!

How’s it balance as setup here? I’m guessing there is no internal weights here.
 
Can someone please explain why Vortex gets so much hate in this thread? While not a fan boy, I've used a lot of scopes that are worse than the G3 Razor.
I've had 2 gen 2 razors in my life....yes....even one on an AI. At the time they were great scopes for the money but at today's standards the G2 razor at least has a lot of competition with better or equal glass and more reticle options in a lighter weight package. They did fall short optically for me, particularly with backlit berms with targets you couldn't make out anything vs my S&B which had no problem. Only looked through a G3 quickly but not enough to make an educated opinion. Always loved how you zero them though.

Just fun to give shit to each other about it....kinda like Milwaukee vs. Dewalt kinda deal.
 
I sit in my paid off home, having driven there in my paid off car, and I put down my financial statements indicating I can pay for any college my children want in cash, so I can go do some DFAT dry fire with my AI AT and my Leupold MK5 5-25x56mm with Illuminated TMR reticle.

Work hard. Save a lot. Buy whatever you want.

-Stan