I'll give this a try , since my "smith" passed away last month .
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Anyone have or know of a Tikka chambered for one of the small 6's ? BR, BRA, Dasher ?? Seams the Mags that allow longer that normal OAL might be a problem ? At least there is a gun show in 3 weeks
Anecdotal, but what kind of accuracy are people getting out of the 20" stainless CTR barrels? Got pics?
Not stainless, but 20” CTR nonetheless. 100 yds, 5 shots. 308 FGMM 175 SMK’s
I soaked mine for two weeks in a PVC pipe with penetrating oil and it didn't rly do anything special According to my friends who popped two off a month earlier. Maybe it was the wrong oil though it was whatever home depot had in stock. Eventually we got it off with a giant pipe wrench but it marred up the OEM barrel pretty bad
Did you use a hammer on the wrench to shock it or just torque?
I used Kroil for a week and mine came off with an inside wrench and a Viper vise. You could see how far it got down into the threads. I put the barreled action in a bench vise with the barrel pointed down and shot some kroil in it every morning for a week.
Kroil is great for penetration, I think any thin oil meant to get into the cracks would work. I did have to wrap on the wheeler wrench a little with a mallet but it was really a breeze compared to my first attempts prior to soaking in WD40.
I removed my howa barrel (which according to everybody and their grandma) which are impossible to remove. Everybody bitches you should take it to a smith, it's tough to remove, you need to make a relief cut, etc. I sprayed wd40 by the action into the barrel threads and in a couple other little holes that lead to the barrel threads as well. I did this 2 days prior to removal of barrel and came off real easy.
I'm sure if you're competent enough and can put some thought into it, any barrel is easy to take off.
I'm glad it worked out for you , But , with the case OAL {2.9+ for a 308} allowed in Tikka magazines , has anyone re-barreled to a shorter case like any based on the 6 BR case ?
I have two 22 BR barrels. They feed great with the MDT Dasher/BR magazines. I also converted two of the MDT with the binder plate with kits for BR based rounds.
Can any Whiskey 3 owners speak to the downsides of the chassis? I am seriously considering for a Tikka build but not sold yet. Fore end seems a little short and possibly narrow, also the I'm not sure how I feel about the bipod spigot.
I do really like the rear end of the chassis, grip and general look of it.
I do really like the rear end of the chassis, grip and general look of it.
I don’t have experiences with other chassis systems and I’m not a competitor, but here’s my take.
The downside is KRG uses a lot of fasteners!
However, they mostly only take a 4mm or 3mm hex key. Of course there’s a different size for the action screws and some small accessory cheekpiece screws, but I’d say 95% of the screws take a 4 or 3mm.
That’s all I got for negatives.
The forend is short, but the spigot works great. Or upgrade to a longer forend like the KRG enclosed forend or a Vision. The only other negative is that the accessories add up fast and get kind of expensive depending on what you want out of it.
That said, it's my favorite chassis (though I haven't tried a C4 yet). Ergonomically it fits me like a glove.
If someone want a a longer KRG forend for a bipod, there’s always this thing. Weird, but long.
kineticresearchgroup.com
Arca Spigot Mount XL – Kinetic Research Group
kineticresearchgroup.com
Doesn't look like they are importing right now. On the choose.tikka.fi site unless it shows as model shows as jrt*** it's not imported unless it's the Drover. Eurooptic doesn't show it either. The 20" version is the Jrtxc316s. Lockedloaded.com has really good prices. Email them for the price. That price + $25 shipping is your out the door cost. Got my Walther pdp and my T1X through them. Ships to your ffl. Mine is a coworker who has his ffl.
I had an early X-Ray and I added a longer ARCA rail, a spigot, and some 1/4" spacers for weight in place of length of pull spacer. Wish I had not gotten rid of it as it was very well balanced with a heavy 26" barrel.
Look on eBay for 24” CTR barrels. They show up every once in a while.
Tikka barrels are easy to swap.
Tikka barrels are easy to swap.
I’m about to make all the AI guys super mad (@Huskydriver) with my Poors2.0 AI killer
At some point I will have a Sterk handle and a KRG bravo in Sako Green and be twinsies with @hafejd30
At some point I will have a Sterk handle and a KRG bravo in Sako Green and be twinsies with @hafejd30
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Those dirty socks on the floor tho....
Don’t be hating you know what those socks are for
I think it’s an EP5? I’ll be spending time behind it this next weekend hopefully so I can report back
Ummmmm....
The barrels installed in Finland generally don't like to come off the action without "Persuasion".
I'll leave it at that.
Quick T3X magazine question (amongst a few others). 1. There's no long action CTR mags are there? 2. Is 5 really the max for factory long action T3X mags? 3. Has anyone used those aluminum 10 round T3X mags made overseas before?
The toughest one I've done off a new barreled action was the last one, a 7-08 super lite. It made a "BANG" when the barrel released, and bent the internal action wrench.
Hmmm.
The BANG thing had me wondering if I'd damaged the action or the barrel or the threads, but a good cleaning and a smattering of anti-seize on the threads and I'm back in business.
I had to reinstall the barrel and torque to 60 ft-lbs to get the wrench bent back and out of the action. Head spaces right, fires right, fit back in the stock correctly.
I'm planning on shooting it as a 7-08 until I run outa ammo (not likely anytime soon), then probably a 6.5 creed or a 22 Creed.
Hmmm.
The BANG thing had me wondering if I'd damaged the action or the barrel or the threads, but a good cleaning and a smattering of anti-seize on the threads and I'm back in business.
I had to reinstall the barrel and torque to 60 ft-lbs to get the wrench bent back and out of the action. Head spaces right, fires right, fit back in the stock correctly.
I'm planning on shooting it as a 7-08 until I run outa ammo (not likely anytime soon), then probably a 6.5 creed or a 22 Creed.
It’s a great chassis. The grip is perfect for me. And I’m in the minority but I run a TRG bipod in all the KRG chassis spigots. It’s one of the secret strengths of the system. Only downside is it’s heavier but that depends on what you’re doing.
I didn't use any heat or much oil. A Wheeler action wrench and a 4' length of pipe as a snipe and I just gradually added pressure until it slowly came loose.
Not having an internal wrench I torqued down the new barrel until it seemed tight and called it good. And it has been good.
Ok so I spent some time behind that EP5 5-25 and I’m impressed
It’s no ZCO but for the Poors 2.0, I really can’t complain. I was on a 300 yard range and i had no issues seeing the little 223 holes on paper around 20/22ish magnification
I will have the new 7-35 one day
It's a very nice chassis. My only minor gripe is while there are lots of accessories available most are proprietary and kind of pricey. I added a spigot, arca rail, bag rider, and QD plate. I have a couple Bravos and I do find that to be the Goldilocks grip size compared to the small and large options with the Whiskey-3 but they certainly aren't bad.
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Rechamber to 7 SAW or "Go Big or Go Home" with .284 Winchester once you go thru the ammo.
It seems that our Southern Hemisphere Brethren have been rechambering new 7-08's for a while now and they seem happy with the outcome.
AICS without binder plate (Accurate Mag) COAL up to 2.945, CTR Mag up to 2.950. Difference is negligible.
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You can't see the moose because it took an expanding solid copper bullet through the lungs and is no longer with us (except as food, in a few days).
9.3x62 is love.
9.3x62 is love.
Saw the stock and terrain, knew it would be somewhere in the neighborhood.Only the KKC stock is from Norway. This is in Sweden.
I’m hoping any of yall can maybe help me answer a question about my Tikka T3. When I’m just cycling the bolt, it performs as smoothly as ever. When I dry fire, after pulling the trigger, my bolt becomes very stiff and hard to lift. On guy suggested that it’s because Tikka’s are cock on open actions. Is this the reason?
