I use the Area419, but with big kernels like N570 I just pour slowly vs dumping into the funnel.
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Ordered the SAC funnel. Hopefully it works.
Lol, or time for cleaning up the mess after you've lifted the funnel off a case where it didn't pour for the 5th time.
Only happened twice. Hence why I am looking for a better solution to this. Nothing more frustrating when your tools don't work and have to buy new tools to a problem that was unknown.Lol, or time for cleaning up the mess after you've lifted the funnel off a case where it didn't pour for the 5th time.
I've been using the Area 419 stackable drop tubes and funnel with N570 and have had zero issues.
Unless you are trickling it in slowly, I don't see how it's possible. Even others are reporting the same issue if you just dump the charge in.
Fast dump: 1 second, N570 usually bunches up, then takes 5-10 seconds of tapping to get it all down the tube
Slow dump: 2-3 seconds slower pour. Done.
Slow dump: 2-3 seconds slower pour. Done.
Anybody running regular non-match magnum primers in 300nm? I stopped using match primers in .308 and 5.56 without issues but I would hate to potentially sacrifice any consistency in 300nm due to the distance I shoot it.
That's what I'm thinking about switching to. I use cci 450s in 5.56 and the vertical is really good out to 1000 yards. I'm thinking if that tiny cartridge is okay with it, a big one should be too. If I can get some cci250s maybe I'll test them against my 215ms and post it here.
450s are awesome in so many cartridges, my from experience as well. I initially tried using CCI 200 non-magnum primers for fireforming, but it created an unnerving click-pause-bang when firing. If my supply of GM215Ms got sub-2000s, then I might do some velocity consistency testing with CCI 250s, but I'm a long way off from that.
Rebellions - Curious to hear what you encountered with Norma brass as I have fired 100 rounds of factory ammo which used Norma cases w/ 230 Berger bullets (2980 fps), I was going to reload those with 230 grain A-tips till I came across your comment. I already have a load developed with Lapua brass for the 230 grain A-tips (3065 fps). I would appreciate your thoughts
- Chris
Every time i used 570 with Norma brass the case would get stuck in the chamber. I thought it might be an extractor issue but it wasn’t. My numbers were way better and consistent with the Lapua. Again, I know others that have had luck with it. It just didn’t work well in my rifle. I did try it with H1000 and only half got stuck so?
Yea i find that federal 210's are great and actually give me lower sd/es. I will switch to magnums if its going to be really cold to ensure ignition.
I'll stick with magnums and probably switch my .308 over to them too (I think military primers are magnum). Then I can just focus on sourcing cci250/450 for my precision stuff. 250s for 300nm/.308 and 450s for 5.56. In a pinch I could even use .308 palma brass with 450s.
Just a little update on the SAC funnel. It does well if you just dump the whole charge in. Little to no bridging of N570. While it's a little expensive, I had the inserts already for the headspace/bullet comparator anyways so why not.
That's a good question and hopefully someone with more experience will comment on... I remember back when I was researching a 338 build I found enough evidence that I thought 1.35 was the way to go for it, and luckily I was building on an axsr so that was covered. I think the Sammi spec max pressure for 300 norma is higher than 338 lapua.
I will say that every 300 norma I have seen that isn't an AI has been built on a standard rem long action at 1.25.
I will say that every 300 norma I have seen that isn't an AI has been built on a standard rem long action at 1.25.
I guess it's probably also worth asking what you guys think of a 1.0625" tenon.
I'm waiting on a american rifle company CDG. I assumed since they are selling a .588" bolt face that it's good to go but part of me thinks this has to be a bit more beefy.
I'm waiting on a american rifle company CDG. I assumed since they are selling a .588" bolt face that it's good to go but part of me thinks this has to be a bit more beefy.
That kind of goes hand in hand with the 1.35. You can get a 1.125 or 1.18 tenon in there.
Yeah, but does the 1.0625 thread tenon make the 1.35 shank a moot point?
I'm just trying to figure out if there's any reason to beef this thing up more than normal.
That I don't know, someone with more gunsmithing knowledge will have to chime in.
What I do know is some very knowledgeable people with a lot of years in action design all went with a minimum 1.125 tenon for their 338 specific actions... AI, Surgeon, Stiller, BAT Machine.
300 Norma is a necked down 338 with higher max pressure. Take that for what it's worth.
Are there tons of 300 Norma and 338 Lapua built on the standard rem 700 long action with 1.0625 tenon and 1.25 barrel? Yep.
Is it safe? Do you pressure out earlier with a 300 Norma in a 1.25 barrel with 1.0625 tenon vs 1.35 with 1.125 or 1.187?
Don't know. Personally I wanted at least a 1.125 tenon and 1.35 barrel.
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This is an interesting conversation, one I've thought about myself and have asked a couple of different gunsmiths on.
My personal .300NM is built off of a Defiance Deviant action. Barrel is a 1.25" shank. I do find that my specific barrel pressures out earlier than what most others report on here - I get 2950 fps with 230 hybrids out of a 29" barrel. If I go much beyond that, I will start seeing signs of pressure.
I'm not sure if that's the 1.25" shank. Or if this specific barrel is slow (this one is a Benchmark). I have another ~28-29" HH barrel for this rifle when I wear the Benchmark out.
Some gunsmiths have said the smaller shank can potentially cause pressure issues. Others didn't think that's the case. It seems like the shank issue is pretty academic at this point, but would be curious to see a real world comparison between a good sample size of 1.25" tennons and pressure and larger tennons.
My personal .300NM is built off of a Defiance Deviant action. Barrel is a 1.25" shank. I do find that my specific barrel pressures out earlier than what most others report on here - I get 2950 fps with 230 hybrids out of a 29" barrel. If I go much beyond that, I will start seeing signs of pressure.
I'm not sure if that's the 1.25" shank. Or if this specific barrel is slow (this one is a Benchmark). I have another ~28-29" HH barrel for this rifle when I wear the Benchmark out.
Some gunsmiths have said the smaller shank can potentially cause pressure issues. Others didn't think that's the case. It seems like the shank issue is pretty academic at this point, but would be curious to see a real world comparison between a good sample size of 1.25" tennons and pressure and larger tennons.
For comparison, I'm shooting an SRS, which uses a 5" long 1.25 shank. I'm getting those same speeds but with 250s out of a 30" barrel, below pressure (I hit pressure at 3045fps).
It's hard to know because individual barrels can vary greatly. I tend to not push my loads to max and I've had one 1.25" and one 1.35" barrel. The 28" 1.25" Bartlien was launching 230gr OTM's at 3050 FPS. The 1.35" 27" I haven't pushed, I got a load working with 220 Hybrids at 3,000 FPS and just left it there. If either one of those barrels happened to be slow or have pressure issues for any number of reasons I could be falsely blaming shank size. I'd need to burn through multiple barrels of each shank size at max loads to get a better feel if the extra 0.1" shank matters.
I think a 1.0625 tenon thread VS 1.1250 has more to do with pressure than a barrel with 1.25 VS 1.350 shank.
You would definitely need a large sample size to make any sort of reasonable correlations.
A larger sample size than any one shooter will obtain on their own.
Is the consensus that 8.5 is fast enough for the 245s and 250s, or should I look for an 8 twist?
I shoot 245s with a 9 twist, no problems out to 1952 yards for me. I do live at 3k ft elevation
I have an 8.3 twist and shoot at 250-800 ft elevation. I'm sure you'll be fine with 8.5
I've shot 250's with a 1:9 twist before at sea level and had no stability issues. I think anything from 1:8 to 1:9 will work just fine.
Don't overlook temperature. If you shoot at sea level at 20 degrees or cooler that 8.5 gives you a little buffer.
No worries there, I tap out about freezing. I will however shoot when it is pushing 100.
